what glue?

[bikerboy]

I am trying to get my head round gluing the wood that I want to turn to a piece of wood that is fixed to my face plate, BUT what is the best?? glue to use for this, what do you boys use????and will I need to put paper between the two woods??? or glue wood to wood????..
You see I find it hard to believe that it will not fly off as soon as I put a chisel upto the work????

[Studley 2436]

Can't help you with turning because I don't have a lathe to know anything about it, however PVA glues are stronger than the wood is.

For hardwoods I am a fan of Yellow Glue. I use Titebond II for most things. Others here know more than me and will tell you about it soon enough I am sure. Try doing a search it might have been covered in the past.

Studley

[TTIT]

You would be surprised how little it takes to hold things on a faceplate. For small articles, I have even had lots of success with thin double-sided tape (carpet-tape) - very quick and easy. Hot-melt glue works too and you can micro-wave it when you're finished to allow separation. PVA is safest of course but separation is usually achieved by parting the work-piece off when finished. Bonding strength required is usually determined by the size and balance of the piece you want to attach. If it sails across the workshop - find stonger bonding method!!!

[rsser]

Yep, I've used hot melt (good quality mind) when finishing the foot on an irregular piece. Five small blobs on a good size lump of Jarrah. (Thanks TTIT for the m/w tip; I just knocked my carrier off which was a bit risky).

And yes, it depends on what you're trying to do.

Paper and glue is ideal for spindle turning when eg. you're going to split a piece to make two decorative halves.

If it's faceplate turning, again, depends on your application. You know about bringing up the tail stock for extra support? And/or finishing off the inside of a foot off the lathe?

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

For cheese-platters and the like, where the blank's only a short length of the bed and screw-mounting is not an option, I'll use the paper/PVA method.

However, I screw a larger circle of ply to the faceplate, at least 2/3 of the blank diameter and glue to that. I always bring up the tailstock until it has to be removed, occasionally I'll mount a jacob's chuck with a long dowel in lieu of the normal tailstock bearing to give me better access.. Better safe than sorry.

Seperation's just a matter of using a good knife-edge and a few taps of a hammer. I'm a tad wary of hot-melt, having had seperation problems in the past.

A microwave, eh Ern? That sounds like it has possibilities. Any particular method? I'd be finding out for myself, 'cept the shed's still set on "roast." Bloody weather.

[rsser]

Hi SkewChi,

Yep, bit hot. I insulated my workshop and put in a big box a/c ... dirt cheap these days and I like to keep the Yallourn folk in work.

The microwave tip btw was TTiP's.

Generally for finishing the bottom of platters and the like I use Cole jaws or a homemade vacuum chuck. Neither have the regular or powerful grip of your techniques so I guess I don't have your patience either, despite the a/c.

Anyway, have a good one tonight and best wishes for the new year. Looking forward to reading more of your posts.

[Darrell Feltmate]

Typically, for finish turning bowls up to 16", I just use a regular hot glue gun to put a layer of hot glue on a glue block and finsih the bowl. I have a friend that uses it for bowls up to three feet. After that I can not say.