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Wayne Blanch
22nd February 2006, 02:20 PM
Hi all
I have been turning now for a couple of years but I have mostly turned bowls and hollow forms so I limited skills turning between centres. :o

Recently an acquaintance asked me to turn some magic wands for her business. (I told her that I could turn some wands, but magic???)

The wands need to be about 40 cm long and quite thin. (About 10-12mm at the handle end and tapering to a point.) I have turned several and the results are acceptable.

My question is Oh Wizards of Woodwork, how do I stop the wood from bowing as it turns in the lathe? I have been supporting the back of the work with my free hand as I cut but I still tend to get some "ridges" and have to sand more than I like.:mad:

I would appreciate any advice or incantations that you think would help:D.
Thanks
Wayne.

CameronPotter
22nd February 2006, 03:07 PM
You can build (or buy) a support for thin spindle turning. They are not complex and there should be plenty of posts on the matter. I have a book by Richard Raffan that shows a home-made one and I am sure that most woodturning supply places would have a commercial one.

Cam

Kev Y.
22nd February 2006, 03:09 PM
have a look here, it will give you an idea of what is required, you can the scale it to suit your needs.

steady rest pdf file (http://www.turnwood.net/projects/SteadyRest.pdf)

RETIRED
22nd February 2006, 06:38 PM
Hi all
I have been turning now for a couple of years but I have mostly turned bowls and hollow forms so I limited skills turning between centres. :o

Recently an acquaintance asked me to turn some magic wands for her business. (I told her that I could turn some wands, but magic???)

The wands need to be about 40 cm long and quite thin. (About 10-12mm at the handle end and tapering to a point.) I have turned several and the results are acceptable.

My question is Oh Wizards of Woodwork, how do I stop the wood from bowing as it turns in the lathe? I have been supporting the back of the work with my free hand as I cut but I still tend to get some "ridges" and have to sand more than I like.:mad:

I would appreciate any advice or incantations that you think would help:D.
Thanks
Wayne.Turn the wand as fast as you can (lathe speed, that is) before it flys off.

Back the tail stock off a fraction. Most people over tighten and "bend" the thin stock.

Use a skew chisel at a very "flat" angle so that you have a larger than normal contact with the timber.

Keep using you fingers as a "steady". Most steadies don't work real well on thin stuff.

HTH.

Termite
22nd February 2006, 06:57 PM
Turn the wand as fast as you can (lathe speed, that is) before it flys off.

Back the tail stock off a fraction. Most people over tighten and "bend" the thin stock.

Use a skew chisel at a very "flat" angle so that you have a larger than normal contact with the timber.

Keep using you fingers as a "steady". Most steadies don't work real well on thin stuff.

HTH.
Wayne, that is advice from a genuine expert.

Wayne Blanch
22nd February 2006, 08:18 PM
Thanks for all the advice gents, you really are the Wizards of Woodturning:D

Captain Chaos
22nd February 2006, 11:49 PM
G'day Wayne,
What said. I've seen a woodturner turn a 40cm. length of wood down to approximately 2mm. using the method described by . The turner in question used a small spindle gouge & worked towards the headstock from the tailstock, turning the piece to size & sanding in stages until he reached the end at the headstock / chuck.
I hope that this is of some help to you.
Regards,
Barry.

ribot
3rd March 2006, 06:01 PM
I concur with , however if you still can't control it try the opposite and slow the speed right down. I don't like to do this myself but have resorted to slower speeds when the wood beat me.Grrrrr.

Hickory
4th March 2006, 03:59 AM
is the man with the plan.... I too have had little success with a steady as it seldom keeps up with where you are and has to be adjusted repeatedly.

Rather than holding my hand against the back side, I hold a pad mad of Scotchbrite pad, (Keeps from burning my hand, Wipes off scratches as it goes, keeps from getting cuts should I slip) I take a piece about 2" wide and 5-6" long (You'll have to convert to Metric as I are a fool at that process) Fold it into a "Y" shape, holding the V of the Y against the piece whilst I hold onto the tail, (does that make sense?) Keep pressure opposite the Skew or Gouge, (If you have a third hand, it would be a good time to use it:eek: )

Wayne Blanch
7th March 2006, 08:02 PM
Hi all,
Since asking your advice I have turned several wands using the method that you suggested , and the results have been great. I find that I can turn one in about half the time It took before, this is because I hardly have to do any sanding at all and I can safely get a finer (thinner) wand more easily. I love the scotchbrite idea and I will give that a go on the next one I do. The pici (if I have attached it properly) is of the first one I turned using this method. I am making them much finer now. Thanks again for all your help gents.

ss_11000
7th March 2006, 08:09 PM
looking good wayne...