Depth gague

[Ladyfox]

Hi
I would just like to introduce my self as a new member. I have been turning for a while now and enjoy it very much.Unfortunetly I am unable to find the time to get on the lathe more than on average once a month. I have turned out a few good items and a lot of bad ones also some disasters but thats part of learning.

I am going to play with the lathe this weekend and would like to make a depht gague .
I thought I would use a straight piece of wood the width of any bowles that I am likley to make. Then if I drill a holl and use a long dowel for the depth, this should work but my problem is how do I stop the dowel from slipping. All I can come up with is two rubber bands. Not a good idea.

Help.
:)

[RETIRED]

Drill the hole one drill size (1/64th) under the dowel size.

Force the dowel through the hole. Use a hammer if needed but hit it straight.

Do this a few times until it just slides with a little hand force. It should be self locking then.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

...or drill another hole in one side of the block to take a woodscrew to lock it together. Same principle as a grubscrew.

[Sprog]

And if you want to get really technical try this :D

Depth gauge (http://home.vicnet.net.au/~pwguild/i-dp-gaug.htm)

[Ladyfox]

Thanks folks
Look forward to trying your ideas. I think sometime in the future I might try
Sprogs idea but use wood instead of metal, it's so much nicer to hold in the hand.:)

[Exalibur]

Hello Ladyfox,

You might find this link interesting: http://www.enter.net/~ultradad/bowlgauge.html (http://www.enter.net/%7Eultradad/bowlgauge.html)

I made it and the friction keeps the dowels in place.

And, http://www.chicagowoodturners.com/newsletter/2004/woodturnsnov04/asthewoodturns_nov04.htm

“On Depth Gauges
How thick is your bowl? This is a question you will be asking yourself as you turn the wood down to its final thickness. To determine bowl thickness, Ellsworth prefers a hand-made device. He starts with a 30" length of zinc-plated rod, 3/16" in diameter, which you can get in your local hardware store or home center at a nominal cost. He then bends the rod into a near circle, with the two ends nearly intersecting at a right angle. The distance between the near intersection is adjusted to 1/8" greater than the desired bowl thickness. For example, if you want a bowl that is ¼" in final thickness, make the near intersection 3/8" wide. You then slide the gap around the wall of the bowl, to see how close your turning has approximated the desired ¼" thickness.”

They are both home made and they work. Just some suggestions.

Have a great day,

John

[Hickory]

I made a simple depth guage from a piece of walnut (any hardwood would do) a medal rod an a thumbscrew & wingnut. I cut a slot the size of the thumbscrew and drilled a hole through the wood and the thumbscrew to match the 1/4" rod. after inserting the rod. Tighten the thumbscrew and apply pressure on the rod to lock the depth. Simple little project and a great aide to prevent turning bowls into funnels.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/hickoryknee/deptha.jpg

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Nice bit of work, Hickory!

The only change I'd make to it would be to put a wooden plug over the end of the rod... I know I shouldn't do it, but I tend to use mine while the lathe's still running and metal can leave a nasty mark, right where it's hardest to remove. :rolleyes: For similar reasons, I round/chamfer the cross-piece on the edges where it contacts the bowl.

[TTIT]

I made a simple depth guage from a piece of walnut (any hardwood would do) a medal rod an a thumbscrew & wingnut. I cut a slot the size of the thumbscrew and drilled a hole through the wood and the thumbscrew to match the 1/4" rod. after inserting the rod. Tighten the thumbscrew and apply pressure on the rod to lock the depth. Simple little project and a great aide to prevent turning bowls into funnels.



Great minds think alike Hickory!!!. I've made virtually the same thing in NG rosewood. A worthwhile improvement is to put a spring between the wingnut (gnurled nut on mine) and the beam to keep pressure on the rod. I find with this setup you can just put a little pressure on the nut with your thumb while pushing the beam to the bowl rim and when you let go its locked at depth automatically. I've never actually had to tighten the nut. The rod I used is calibrated in tenths of an inch from an old dot-matrix printer. (watch all the IT guy's hauling out the rubbish tomorrow!!;))

[hughie]

Hickory/TTIT/Skew

Nice work! Love the spring idea. Hmm like the idea of the plug end etc.
This is gonna be the next little one of the blocks.
hughie

[Hickory]

worthwhile improvement is to put a spring between the wingnut (gnurled nut on mine) and the beam to keep pressure on the rod.

Great tip. I'll start looking for a spring. Love the graduated markings as well, but, Alas, I am well away from any salvage goodies these days....