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powderpost
9th May 2006, 11:28 PM
Finally worked out a way to post a picture, I hope :) . This platter is made from some highly figured maple. The plate started out as about 5 feet of 3 x 1. The rim is cooktown ironwood.
Jim
23335

powderpost
9th May 2006, 11:31 PM
Bloody hell it worked :cool: . Forgot to add, its called "fish plate" :)
Jim

Skew ChiDAMN!!
10th May 2006, 12:15 AM
I'd never have guessed! :D Nice. And the inlay is ...?

Caveman
10th May 2006, 02:06 AM
Hey Jim - A good looking piece - nice work.

Babytoolman
10th May 2006, 08:30 AM
Jim,
Great work mate it looks fantastic.

TTIT
10th May 2006, 09:07 AM
Very nice platter!:) Segmented or inlay ??????:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

jmk89
10th May 2006, 09:08 AM
Wow
Greenie on the way - how about a rundown on how you did it and finishes etc?

Gil Jones
10th May 2006, 10:13 AM
That is a fine looking piece, and nice wood too!!
It sorta has that look of a kaleidoscope image.:)

Wood Butcher
10th May 2006, 10:39 AM
Fantastic work Powder.
I second jmk, I would to find out how you did it!

Well Done!

ss_11000
10th May 2006, 10:13 PM
great work....i really like the fishes, have a greenie

powderpost
10th May 2006, 10:28 PM
Thanks everyone for the nice comments. The plate is laminated with the design visible on both sides. It started as a glued up board with 35mm wide maple on the outside and two 3mm strips of ash with a 3mm strip of ironwood in the middle. It was cut at 60 degrees with every second piece turned over and reglued. Then cut at 45 degrees with every second piece turned over again. Then again cut at 45 degrees and glued. The board was 1500mm long to start with and finished about 450mm long. Finally cut into wedges at 15 degrees and formed a disc. The finish is 3 coats of sanding sealer, two coats of lacquer and polished with EEE. I have some photos if any one wants, I can post them here????
Jim

Skew ChiDAMN!!
10th May 2006, 10:34 PM
Please! It's a totally new way of creating segmented work to me, so any photos showing how it was done will be very carefully scrutinised. :D

powderpost
10th May 2006, 11:24 PM
Ok, here goes. I have been laminating now for quite a while. My wife brought this bloody book home from the library, now I am properly hooked. For this form of laminating you need to build a sled to fit the sawbench. After gluing up the initial "board" there are four cut and glue processes before the turning. These photos are for a different project, but they will explain better than words.

powderpost
11th May 2006, 09:18 PM
This picture posting is harder than woodturning....
Here goes again.
1 shows the first part, cutting at 60 degrees.
2 shows the board cut at 60 degrees.
3 shows the development of the 60 degree pattern
4 shows the 60 degree board being cut at 45 degrees

powderpost
11th May 2006, 09:30 PM
Hope the last lot were self explanatory. Will try for the next lot.
Finally the board is cut into wedge shaped pieces, at 15 deg, to form a disc.

Skew ChiDAMN!!
11th May 2006, 11:15 PM
I can see I'm going to have to give it a try. :)

After flipping the pieces, it looks like you cut both long edges square again? I wonder how it'd affect the pattern if you only trimmed one edge and glued the offcuts in to bring the other edge square?

Sorry... you've got me thinking now. That's a dangerous situation. ;)

powderpost
11th May 2006, 11:41 PM
Skew, you could get away with that idea I think. It would be better to trim both edges so that the board can be cut from either side in necessary. Starting with a 1500mm length, you will end up with a piece about 450mm long, depending on how many times you cut it. The key to the whole process is the sled. I will include a photo of another one. I have done five so far and will post photos soon.
Jom

Skew ChiDAMN!!
12th May 2006, 12:11 AM
Ahh... you just put your finger on the one thing I hadn't thought about. The board growing shorter with each iteration of cuts.

Hmmm... lessee... you'd need the board to be at least as long as half the circumference of the potential bowl... and the circumference will be determined by the width of the board. (Circum. = 2π x width). So... as long as the board is longer than π x width, let's say 4 times as long as wide to allow for losses in cuts, etc., then it should be OK? Would you say that's about right? Or have I missed something? :confused:

It'd be just my luck to work through all the stages and discover I only have enough wedges for 3/4 of a platter or bowl. :o

TTIT
12th May 2006, 09:03 AM
Powder - How are you squaring the edges up before you glue them or are you relying on a clean cut from the saw?

jmk89
12th May 2006, 09:33 AM
This is developing into a really interesting thread - way beyond my skills (hell, I'm still working out how to make wooden wheels for a small toy car!), but it is just amazing watching this develop and inspiring - this is what we all might be able to do when we get the time and money to get the information together, the right equipment and the skills to do it.

Zed
12th May 2006, 09:40 AM
Im giving you a greenie for the tablesaw sled, :D

powderpost
12th May 2006, 09:22 PM
Skew, I started with a length of 1350 and out of that I got a 240 diameter circle. The first one I did was half a wedge short. Must admit I was very controlled, only smashed three wall panels.

TT, I checked and set the saw blade as near to perfectly as possible. The biggest problem was removing the dags left after the saw cut. These were by hand rubbing the piece on all four sides, on a sanding board. That also corrected any minor irregularities from the saw and improved the fit.

Zed... thanks.

Jim

powderpost
12th May 2006, 09:31 PM
I have had a real ball in the workshop lately. One of the recent projects was a wooden bucket inspired by a chance visit to a Scandinavian web site that featured old wooden buckets retrieved from sunken wrecks. The canundrum was developing some way to cut tapered, beveled staves on the saw bench. The finished bucket actually held water, well at least after the timber swelled a bit. The staves are held together only by the bands, there was no glue or fixings of any sort (other than the bands)used.
Jim

TTIT
14th May 2006, 12:44 AM
The canundrum was developing some way to cut tapered, beveled staves on the saw bench.
Jim

So was that just to tantalise us???? Where's the jig/sled or whatever;):D

hughie
14th May 2006, 01:04 AM
Hi Powderpost,
Is your sled anything like this one? See last link, cos I am getting around to building this one in the next few months. hughie

http://www.turnedwood.com/GraphBowlDesign.html
http://www.turnedwood.com/FrameMiterBowl.html
http://www.turnedwood.com/framesled.html

powderpost
14th May 2006, 09:17 PM
Hughie and TT, I have developed a few 'sleds' over a fairly long period. How about I photograph them one at a time and post the photos along with a description and purpose? The jig for making 12 sided rings has been superceded by a recently acquired Kreg mitre gauge, it is really accurate and has replaced the old wooden jig. I will photograph the timber one and post the photo, because it costs virtually nothing and the Kreg gauge is $299.00. First instalment tomorrow night
Jim

hughie
15th May 2006, 12:04 AM
[

quote=powderpost]Hughie and TT, I have developed a few 'sleds' over a fairly long period. How about I photograph them one at a time and post the photos along with a description and purpose? The jig for making 12 sided rings has been superceded by a recently acquired Kreg mitre gauge, it is really accurate and has replaced the old wooden jig. I will photograph the timber one and post the photo, because it costs virtually nothing and the Kreg gauge is $299.00. First instalment tomorrow night
Jim[/quote


Much obliged. hughie

CameronPotter
15th May 2006, 10:20 AM
:D Waitin' and watchin' mate!

tonysa
15th May 2006, 03:40 PM
Same here, looking forward to seeing the sled, amazing stuff Jim !
Cheers
Tony

powderpost
15th May 2006, 10:11 PM
The sled has two rummers underneath that run in the grooves in the bench top. The fence is fitted with tank bolts screwed into tee nuts. The first trap I fell into was that after cutting the staves to an angle of 3 degrees and a 15 degree bevel, (set the saw to an angle of 15 degrees), I turned the stave over to cut the other side and discovered that the cuts were parallel instead of producing a taper. I had to cut one side of the staves and then reset the fence at 6 degrees (double the angle). Note the stop at the end of the fence. The fence also has to be as thick or slightly thicker than the staves you are cutting.
Jim

powderpost
15th May 2006, 10:14 PM
Forgot to mention, I left the rule there as a guide to sizes.
Jim

chrisb691
15th May 2006, 10:39 PM
Ok, here goes. I have been laminating now for quite a while. My wife brought this bloody book home from the library, now I am properly hooked. For this form of laminating you need to build a sled to fit the sawbench. After gluing up the initial "board" there are four cut and glue processes before the turning. These photos are for a different project, but they will explain better than words.

Hi powder, that is simply stunning. Greenie on the way.:D What was the name of the book that you were refering to?

tonysa
16th May 2006, 11:12 PM
nice sled, thanks for sharing Jim

powderpost
16th May 2006, 11:37 PM
Chris, the book is "Laminated Designs in Wood" by Clarence Rannefeld. I have been told it is out of print.
Jim

powderpost
16th May 2006, 11:49 PM
Below is the old wooden jig for cutting a 12 sided ring for a laminating project. It is fixed and not adjustable. The other one is the new Kreg mitre gauge. I have added a 3" x 2" extension fitted with a stop for repetitive cutting and is adjustable to make any number of pieces greater than three.
Jim

dnelson
17th May 2006, 01:41 AM
Powderpost, What kind of method do you use to reglue the pieces together. Is it just a set of clamps or a jig you made?
David

chrisb691
17th May 2006, 07:56 AM
Chris, the book is "Laminated Designs in Wood" by Clarence Rannefeld. I have been told it is out of print.
Jim

Thanks Jim, a quick search found 5 copies (used) available, and they range in price from US$200 to US$349. :eek: I'll have a more extensive look later, and see what I can find.

EDIT: Just found a used soft copy at US$639.76. Bloody book must be printed on gold leaf!!!!!

powderpost
17th May 2006, 10:05 PM
David, I use a sash clamp fixed to a base board with two lengths of 2" x 2", one on each side of the clamp. I found that the board under pressure, wants to 'spring', so I clamped anothe board on to of it all. There is two photos that will help sort this out... I hope.
Jim

Skew ChiDAMN!!
18th May 2006, 12:06 AM
Now why didn't I think of that? I use a similar method in much shorter scale to prevent bevelled joints slipping laterally under clamping, but I hadn't thought of extending it the full length of the sash clamp.

To be honest, I've been gluing/clamping one segment at a time. :o D'Oh!

dnelson
18th May 2006, 02:27 AM
Powderpost Thank you, that makes perfect sense. I will have to give that a try.

Skew I have done something similar one board at a time and it is very tedious.