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rsser
21st July 2006, 05:34 PM
1. If you do a deal of fixing of faceplates or faceplate rings to your bowl blanks, try the square drive flat (aka countersunk) screws available by mail order from

http://svc008.srv002.inetserver-2.com/catalogue/sachys/index.html

They do a turners pack and a trial pack for folks to dip their toes in.

The screws hold well and last for yonks. They also do a whole range of screws for other applications and the Insty chucks are the best thing since sliced bread.

Service is excellent.

2. Lifted from a US website that I would acknowledge if I could remember what it was :confused: :

If you use finishes out of a tin with a screw cap and find like I do that they gum up over time, when new or when cleaned up wrap a few turns of plumbers teflon tape around the thread.

Have a good one. Looks like for us Mexicans the sun is going to shine on our time for a change :D

La truciolara
21st July 2006, 06:32 PM
Thanks for the tips.
I'll certainly do the second one today !

ptc
21st July 2006, 07:05 PM
Thanks Ern.
for the second one. also

DJ’s Timber
21st July 2006, 07:32 PM
These screws are great, have been using them on my faceplates for redgum and yellowbox for the last 6 yrs and think I have only snapped two off in all that time

Cheers DJ

Terry B
21st July 2006, 10:29 PM
The square holed screw heads are almost the same as screws used in orthopedic surgery. They have a very positive grip on the driver and little chance of the bit coming out of the screw as it is spinning- hence limiting the risk of damage to the surrounding structures. This is important in our bones but not quite as important on my metal faceplate.
Is there much advantage really compared to the cheap phillips headed screws I currently use?

DJ’s Timber
21st July 2006, 10:50 PM
G'day Terry B

Three advantages that I know of are

1 Stronger material is used in maunfacter of screws which means less chance of snapping

2 These screws have a special coating on them which makes them easier to screw in and out

3 Square drive dosen't slip and strip screw head like a phillips does

Cheers DJ

OGYT
22nd July 2006, 04:15 AM
Ern, do these have a coating that looks like brass?... sort of a golden color?

hcbph
22nd July 2006, 04:31 AM
Square drive (aka Robertson) screws can be gotten with almost any thread desired. If you have a chance (whether phillips or robertson), see if you can find 'particleboard screws". They have a thicker shank along with a slightly steeper angle on the threads, along with deeper threads. I've used them in hardwoods, softwoods and composites with very good results, I've also used them fastening things to a faceplate with not problems. I've had very few occurrances of twisting them off or twisting out the slots.

I dont' know about where you live, but I can get them at a number of the local home supply stores. Give them a try, I think You'll like them

There's a mailorder company here (McFeeleys) that carry them in just about any style or length you might ever want.

Paul

rsser
22nd July 2006, 01:18 PM
OGYT, not sure .. check out the website. They come in a range of finishes.

hughie
22nd July 2006, 02:54 PM
Ern,

Thanks for jogging my memory. I have used them before but only in North America. Have not seen to many around in Oz. But they are slowly coming available. Plus some of the tool store are selling the drivers. Where they seem to be located is on imported elect cabinets etc.

I agree much better bite by the driver and you don't shear off the part of the driver as it occurs with Philip's head drivers.

OGYT. As far as I remember the gold finish is a cad plated finish, although there is a gold coloured zinc plated finish --- lesser quality but much cheaper, Used it alot on the lab equip in a previous job.
hughie

Skew ChiDAMN!!
22nd July 2006, 05:29 PM
I'll second Pauls' suggestion of using particleboard screws, especially for the softer woods. I've found that they seem to hold better for the same length than normal screws, regardless of the head type. In faceplate turning that can be an advantage. :)

Haven't seen 'em around here with square-drive heads, but I can't say I've really looked for 'em.

Yet...

DJ’s Timber
22nd July 2006, 06:07 PM
These guys are normally at the timber show every time that I have been there

Cheers DJ

Tornatus
22nd July 2006, 11:26 PM
Haven't seen 'em around here with square-drive heads, but I can't say I've really looked for 'em.

Yet...

G'day Skewch

Have a look at this website: http://www.sachys-robertson.com.au

They offer a "Woodturner's Pack" as well as the "Starter's Pack" mentioned above. Definitely superior to the dreaded Phillips Head/Pozi-drive bit-manglers.

cedar n silky
23rd July 2006, 08:38 AM
1. If you do a deal of fixing of faceplates or faceplate rings to your bowl blanks, try the square drive flat (aka countersunk) screws available by mail order from

:D
I have not done any face plate ring work yet, but I imagine there is a high demand placed on screws, when you have a humungous burl on! In the building game, I used to use a lot of "batten screws" which were an allen key drive, and used to only come 75mm long. They are now making them in 25mm, as well as 100mm, but if 25mm isn't too long they might suit? They are about 4-5mm thick in the shank with a very aggressive thread (after all they are designed to hold roof battens down in all weathers!)They also come in stainless, gal etc, and are very cheap now also.
They are countersunk, and may be suitable if the screw heads aren't too big for the countersunk holes in the ring.:)

Hickory
23rd July 2006, 11:37 AM
I have always preached against using anything except Flatheat slotted steel wood screws. But given your rationale I might have to side with you. (to a cretain extent) Reason for my Olde School insistance is that a lot of folks will use too weak of a screw for faceplates. I insist on a #10 or #12 full shank screw. the screw needs the shank to keep from shearing off in a catch and the screw needs to fill the hole also to keep from shearing off.

Drywall screws are a definate NO NO, They are much too brittle and weak to hold in a stressful situation such as a catch or dropping on the floor or shoving your face into the bowl. They shear from simply vibration of chattering cutters.

As you mentioned, the Robertson screws are a buit more beefy due to the torque applied by the power driver, but I still prefer the Correctly drilled & sized pilot followed by a hand torqued steel wood screw.

BTW not all Robertsons are beefy and you know they were invented by a (gasp!) Canadian long before the Phillips?

Far too often folks use a powered drill/driver and crank the screw in untill the driver can turn no more. This is often at the shear point of the screw, or it has already stripped out the wood or they by-pass the pilot hole because the drive will do it.... etc. This is a weak attachment and a poor attempt at short cutting which may lead to failure and accident.

cedar n silky
23rd July 2006, 03:30 PM
I have always preached against using anything except Flatheat slotted steel wood screws. But given your rationale I might have to side with you. (to a cretain extent) Reason for my Olde School insistance is that a lot of folks will use too weak of a screw for faceplates. I insist on a #10 or #12 full shank screw. the screw needs the shank to keep from shearing off in a catch and the screw needs to fill the hole also to keep from shearing off.

Drywall screws are a definate NO NO, They are much too brittle and weak to hold in a stressful situation such as a catch or dropping on the floor or shoving your face into the bowl. They shear from simply vibration of chattering cutters.

As you mentioned, the Robertson screws are a buit more beefy due to the torque applied by the power driver, but I still prefer the Correctly drilled & sized pilot followed by a hand torqued steel wood screw.

BTW not all Robertsons are beefy and you know they were invented by a (gasp!) Canadian long before the Phillips?

Far too often folks use a powered drill/driver and crank the screw in untill the driver can turn no more. This is often at the shear point of the screw, or it has already stripped out the wood or they by-pass the pilot hole because the drive will do it.... etc. This is a weak attachment and a poor attempt at short cutting which may lead to failure and accident.
Bl--dy (as we say over here) good advice Mr Hickory!!

rsser
23rd July 2006, 07:47 PM
On a faceplate ring I use 6 of the Sachys-Robertson 10 gauge screws of appropriate length. Used self-tapped. Never had one break but over time have had the driver tip break.

Of course it depends on the size of the faceplate or ring and the size of the lump you're fixing to. I'm now using for bigger lumps the Nova Titan chuck, Powergrip jaws and 130 faceplate ring. No probs so far, knock on wood ;-}

Toasty
23rd July 2006, 09:16 PM
Yeah I bought the Sachy's Woodturners pack, its great!