Low budget good idea

[Vonrek]

Just thought I'd share my 2c worth on what i think is a nifty (perhaps under-used) idea.

Using the router as a planer/thicknesser is not an original idea but I can report having quite a bit of success. As an amateur, home woodworker I could never justify the expense of a jointer and planer or a combi (besides the more affordable ones seem to be tinny and prone to sniping) but the added work of dressing, truing and straightening warped timber is arduos with hand tools and can lead to frustrations and be very disheartening.

I first came across the idea of using the router to true timber in "The Workbench Book" by Scott Landis in which Tage Frid describes a jig for truing solid benchtops. Bill Hylton in "Router Magic" gives a good description of a "sled base" which can be used for this purpose and the Popular Mechanics site (popularmechanics.com) has an article by Rosario Capotosto who descibes a device/jig for planning timber (a search using Rosario Capotosto's name will also elicit some very nice and quite advanced jigs for routing and sawing).

Combining all of the sources above i have built a "machine" using MDF which is adjustable and capable of flattening and thicknessing timber, even from a rough, split state. This has allowed me to raid firewood piles and create smallish pieces/boards of very unique timber.

I've had success using 3/4 inch planer/mortising router bits with downward shear grinding but also with basic straight bits.

My first prototype is only short, capable of handling only lengths up to 900 mm but my plan is to extend this capability with the next model.

I've found this type of routing to be safe- the router is in an overhead position, the added bulk and slight friction of the sled decreases the chance of kickback and allows safe climb cutting if desired and the entire workpiece and router bit is enclosed within an MDF "box" (formed by the sides of the jig) which ensures that even on the slight chance that the workpiece comes loose, it cant do much damage.

I've even made a sled for use with an angle grinder and Arbotech Carver to commence dressing of very rough timber.

Anyway, thats mt 2c worth. I was wondering if anyone has had any experience (good/bad) or other ideas with this concept.

Please, share your thoughts.


Cheers

Tim

[barrysumpter]

Hi Tim,

Any chance of getting a picture of your jig?



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Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
Proud Tritoneer

[Vonrek]

Hi Barry

I'll try my best to get something to you ASAP. I can borrow a digital cam from a friend so i should be able to email you some pics. It may just take a little while to get everything organised.

If your profile does not contain your email address, check mine and email yours to me.

Cheers
Tim

[Harry]

I'll get around to making a jig for the same purpose as yours Vonrek, the plans in my head but have I have wondered about the max size router bit you can safley use so as to maximise cutting area. I only have a single speed (Makita 3600B) router, does that matter? Is there any "stepping" from one pass to another or don't you worry about it and sand it out somhow?

[Vonrek]

The capabilities of the setup is limited only by your patience. At present I'm only using a 1/4 inch 900W GMC router with a 3/4 inch Jesada Planer/Mortising bit. I've used this to dress rough split firewood into a dressed block and then surfaced the resawn boards. It took a bit of doing but now I've got some very nicely figured, very hard eucalyptus just waiting to fully dry and be used.

A few things to consider though:
A router has a universal (I think this is the correct name) motor not rated for continual use like an induction motor on a purpose built planer/thicknesser. Rest breaks are essential during any long sessions.
The biggest router bit is not always the best. I tend to use fairly shallow skimming cuts with small bits as this decreases the load on the router and leaves a better finish. It also means that you can skim up and down a board with overlapping strokes fairly quickly, make a fine adjustment to depth and repeat as necessary until you have the desired thickness.

The great advantage of this setup (asides from the cost) is being able to flatten, flip the stock, flatten and then thickness all in the one operation.

In regards to any stepping, I've had to make a second "sled" as the first one developed a slight twist to it which ruined the accuarcy and did result in a slight step. Now, I've made sure that the sled is flat and I get very good results, but the surface is still slightly rough, as it would be anyway after being through a thicknesser.

I leave a bit extra on the thickness of the wood which allows me to clean it up to a shimmering surface with a few strokes of a finely set and very sharp HNT Gordon smoother.

Hope this helps

Cheers, Tim

[David McWilliam]

Thanks for the (new to me) idea. I looked up the surfacing jig article from Capotosto on the popular mechanics page. How exactly does yours differ? It looks difficult to describe without pictures. Any luck with pictures/diagrams of your design.
Perhaps you should write it up for one of the magazines.
Regards DM

[Sandy Johnston]

I build a surfacing jig combo from angle aliminium.
I bought a 2 metre length of 3mm x 40mm x 40mm angle and cut in half with hacksaw.
Then cut of 200 mm from each one and clamped short peices at each end at 90 degrees - pop rivited then repeated to other edge .
The long length is like 2 "L"s facing each other and the router rides on the base of the horizontals.
The underside has the "L"s facing away from each other and allows the jig to be clamped to the workpiece/bench for long slots (and being at 90 degrees, has its benefits).
The whole thing can be mounted on 2 x "4x2s" either end of the work (level and parallel) and use the router like a plane to surface the top.
Fastest speed, 18mm wide cutter and only take of a couple of mils at at tme. -works for me.

Regards
Sandy across the ditch