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TimberNut
27th July 2006, 11:46 AM
I'd orginally posted this under 'finishing' but am now posting here as I want suggestions from turners specifically.

S&P grinders are Black Heart Sassafrass and Huon Pine.
Sanded to 600, then 0000, then EEE and oiled with Orange Oil. Then markings drawn on, and then burned in.
Originally I only left 6 hours and coated with Cabots Gel Clear (2 coats).

Problem - Finish was 'babys bum smooth' when oiled. But after Gel Clear it was rough, the Gel wouldn't dry properly, and wouldn't coat evenly (I suspect due to oil not being left to dry properly first).

I have now sanded all the 'goo' back off and reoiled with 2 x coats so far of Organoil High Speed Finishing Oil
1st pic - The pieces just oiled before markings burnt on.
2nd pic - marking the pieces ready to burn. You can see on the table the sample piece already burnt. The actual pieces have burnings slightly bigger (sorry, no current pics available yet).

I'm planning on about 4 more coats of oil then I need some durable finish as they will be handled a lot.

What durable finish? and how would you apply??

Thanks guys.

hughie
27th July 2006, 01:03 PM
I'd originally posted this under 'finishing' but am now posting here as I want suggestions from turners specifically.

).

[QUOTE]
Problem - Finish was 'baby's bum smooth' when oiled. But after Gel Clear it was rough, the Gel wouldn't dry properly, and wouldn't coat evenly (I suspect due to oil not being left to dry properly first).

I have now sanded all the 'goo' back off and re-oiled with 2 x coats so far of Organoil High Speed Finishing Oil
1st pic - The pieces just oiled before markings burnt on.
2nd pic - marking the pieces ready to burn. You can see on the table the sample piece already burnt. The actual pieces have burnings slightly bigger (sorry, no current pics available yet).

I'm planning on about 4 more coats of oil then I need some durable finish as they will be handled a lot.



Hi,
From my experience, what ever you oil you must give it all the time it needs to dry thoroughly.Read the drying times of the oil of the label and these should be the minimum time frame, given the time of year, temps, humidity etc.
I am not sure if Orange oil goes off that quickly, if I use oil, its usually boiled linseed, but Organoil should be OK.
Then when its throughly dry try your sealer. If I am concerned I do the bottom first and see how it goes. Easier to fix a small patch thats out of sight :D
As for sealers etc, Cabot's gel, a wipe-on poly finish, maybe an oil based Poly finish would be better.
hughie

PAH1
27th July 2006, 01:18 PM
For this sort of article the "Raffan" wax over oil is hard to beat. While not strictly durable it is amenable to repair and develops a patina with use, as opposed to wearing and looking ugly. Orange oil is a solvent and not really a finish and the problems that you got were probably due to leakage of the solvent through the setting topcoat that caused it to goop.

TimberNut
27th July 2006, 01:25 PM
Thanks Hughie and PAH,

yeah, found out the hard way that I didn't leave oil long enough to dry/harden. Response on the finishing thread was the same. I guess I was a bit over-enthusiastic there!! It was just that they looked sooooo nice and I was keen to get to the customer asap. They've now been told they'll be ready "when they are ready" :D

I'm leaving 48hours between oil sandings now;)

My only concern is that I can use Sanding Sealer, and then EEE and wax, which would look real nice, but as both timbers are real soft, and these will get handled a lot, I would rather something more durable (that won't end up 'rough as guts' from an amatuer finisher like myself....)

any more ideas fellas?

Cliff Rogers
27th July 2006, 01:59 PM
As I understand it, Orange oil is an Eco friendly finish & as such doesn't contain the regular non-Eco friendly drying agents. (but don't quote me)

This makes it very slow to dry.

I personally would not attempt to put anything over the Orange oil.

I like to 'Keep It Simple, Stupid'
The more different 'goops' you put on under or over each other, the more complicated the job can become.

If it was a bowl to eat out of, I would use only edible oils.
If it has a tool handle that was going to get a lot of handling, I'd use something that set hard. (mostly. if it was real roughy, not for resale, use at home only, I may just give it a quick squirt of 'sheep in a tin')

Your pepper grinder is sort of in-between & you could go both ways.
If it was just for use at home by the BBQ, a rub of edible oil would do me.
If it was for 'flash' 5 start dinning or resale, then a hard shiny finish is better.
I prefer satin finishes so I would most likely use Penitrol on it if I was making it for the 'good' table, resale or as a present.

hingston
27th July 2006, 02:53 PM
Thanks Hughie and PAH,

yeah, found out the hard way that I didn't leave oil long enough to dry/harden. Response on the finishing thread was the same. I guess I was a bit over-enthusiastic there!! It was just that they looked sooooo nice and I was keen to get to the customer asap. They've now been told they'll be ready "when they are ready" :D

I'm leaving 48hours between oil sandings now;)

My only concern is that I can use Sanding Sealer, and then EEE and wax, which would look real nice, but as both timbers are real soft, and these will get handled a lot, I would rather something more durable (that won't end up 'rough as guts' from an amatuer finisher like myself....)

any more ideas fellas?

Once you have stabalised the orange oil.

Try 4- 5 coats of danish oil on the last coat give a light rub with 0000 steel wool and then EEE cream and buff. It is smooth, looks good and easily repairable.

Hope it goes well

Rob

JackoH
27th July 2006, 03:14 PM
What they all said above.
Let it develop it's own patina with use. Far more attractive than over polishing, and certainly better than most "varnish" type finishes.