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Eastie
6th November 2002, 04:08 PM
I’ve seen a bit in magazines lately about router tables with simple one piece / non adjustable fences – i.e a lump of 4x2.

With the ever growing belief amongst some authors that a router table can actually do everything, I’ve a question pertaining to tasks like using a straight bit to machine the side of boards before joining (seeing as you don;t need a hjointer, suposedly a router table will do this just fine):

Q. Without a split fence that is adjustable on the out-feed side how do you not end up with the last part of the cut off square as the nose of the board (the bit that’s been routed) angles back to touch the out feed fence ?

DarrylF
6th November 2002, 08:08 PM
Assuming you're using a fence design that's cheap & easy to make, then it's dead easy to make a second fence specifically for edge routing - layer of laminate on the outfeed side to create an offset, and next to zero clearance around the appropriate bit. Probably just as easy to change fences as adjust an adjustable fence and then try to get it straight again.

soundman
7th November 2002, 09:58 AM
It only becomes a problem If you are removing all of the side of the job.
A large portion of router table work is edge treatments such as round over ect which only remove the corner of the job.

Rod Smith
7th November 2002, 11:39 AM
G'day
Easy. I just clamp a piece of laminate on the out feed side. Almost never need do it these days though.
cheers
rod

Eastie
7th November 2002, 01:34 PM
There are a few ways but what I'm having a go at is the dribble often dished up in ww magazines that would have joe average believe they can do this without any outfeed fence adjustment - some even have photos showing offenders in action.

That said, it's interesting to see the methods used.

Cheers,
Mark

[This message has been edited by Eastie (edited 07 November 2002).]

Glen Bridger
10th November 2002, 11:58 PM
I use a alloy straight edge stuck on with double sided tape, then use a ball bearing straight cut router bit.

Glen