I was wondering...

[Wild Dingo]

With all yous blokes bein hecksperts and all ;) okay reasonably good and pretty experienced... well more than moi anyways :rolleyes:

I have a spupadupa nova chuck thingy I havent yet used since I have no bleedin idea how to attach the friggin thing to a chunk of wood that isnt less than 4in round... and the one time I had a burl at screwing a peice to the faceplate I set the speed to friggin high and scared the livin shyte outta meself!! :eek: So much so I havent been game to have a go again :( ... yet! ;)

So I was wondering... how about one or more of you blokes doin a "How to use the...." and "how to attach a blank to the jaws" and... and... and... Ive sorta got the spindle stuff sorted I think specially the smaller stuff (pens handles etc) But thats more cause Im a persistant sorta fella and blindly kept goin till I sorted it... and watched some of the stuff you blokes produced... but nowhere have I found a "how to" of turning

And yes Ive got a book... but Im too busy out in the shed or here on the forum to read bloody books!! I want answers and I want them now... ahem that sorta thing ;) and well theres so many threads started by you blokes on sharpening I wondered why no one has put up a "how to"... and yes I do tend to use these forums like many others I guess as a learning tool gathering information and learning the ins and outs of what we do and a book well... tis okay on the throne but to have someone "show" is far better! :cool: :cool:

AND finally... as we all know the tools we use and abuse rarely come with any intelligable information... well if you dont speak and read chungalese they dont... its either buggar all info or its unintelligable in this chucks case it was buggar all... so Im askin for help I guess and what bedda way than to ask yous blokes? so you can share your way your knowledge and your experience

And as yet Ive been unable to get my backside to a meeting of the Bunbury woodturners mob... busy you know? :D ...Alight then so Im shy :rolleyes: actually its been more a matter of either not being here and 3000klicks away at work or Ive been crook than not wanting to do it

Anyways how about it fellas and sheilas? Feel like exposi... errr givin us the benefit of your brilliance? :cool:

ooh an please dont link through to some noddy in the states Im so over them I want YOUR Aussie brilliance not some git overseas! :p

[cedar n silky]

Matey. The way I do bowls is pretty basic. I roughly round a chink of wood, either half a log round, or round off a square of timber. I use my bandsaw, but a chainsaw, a handsaw or whatever!! With your chuck you would have got a screw. Put that in the chuck centre, drill an undersized hole as long as the protruding screw, wind your timber on, set your tool rest up so it does not touch when you spin it by hand, and then start her up, but slowly!:eek: Carefully round the bowl out on the outside, and before you wind it off the screw, cut a dovetail/ spigot in the back of the bowl blank with a parting tool. Make sure before you start, that you know the measurement for your jaws to work in the spigot or dovetail you finally cut. Then wind the bowl off the screw, take the screw out, attatch the bowl to the chuck the otherway round, and either expand the chuck out into the dovetail, or in, to grab the spigot. Nip it up, turn it on slowly, and see that it is not out of whack- If it is , just reposition it until it seems to be runnung pretty true!:) Nip it right up, working around the chuck with the tightening tool, and away you go. Good luck:D

[Cliff Rogers]

Dingo mate, 'sbeen done before by blokes better than us. You can buy HEAPS of Videos/DVDs showing you how.

On another hobby horse, are you anywhere near a club?
You'll learn heaps more watching somebody & asking questions for a half hour than you will reading books, this forum, or watching a home made video.

[TTIT]

Dingo - If you're anything like me you won't be wanting to watch some wanker on a video;) - druther watch Neighbours:rolleyes:

Cedar's routine covers most pieces so go with that for starters. One of my favorite methods for mounting a lump is particularly good if you want to protect a natural edge on the top of the piece. Quick'n'easy too:). Grab a forstner bit the same size as your jaws (48mm for a VM100 is good) and drill a hole about 8mm deep in the top of the lump of wood. Whack it on your chuck, expand to tighten and go for it. You have to be a little careful because you're not seated in a dovetail but I haven't lost too many!!;)

[cedar n silky]

Dingo - If you're anything like me you won't be wanting to watch some wanker on a video;) - druther watch Neighbours:rolleyes:

Cedar's routine covers most pieces so go with that for starters. One of my favorite methods for mounting a lump is particularly good if you want to protect a natural edge on the top of the piece. Quick'n'easy too:). Grab a forstner bit the same size as your jaws (48mm for a VM100 is good) and drill a hole about 8mm deep in the top of the lump of wood. Whack it on your chuck, expand to tighten and go for it. You have to be a little careful because you're not seated in a dovetail but I haven't lost too many!!;)
I like that one TTIT- Will put that one in with" my bag of tools"!:D

[lubbing5cherubs]

. Put that in the chuck centre, drill an undersized hole as long as the protruding screw

Cedar is that the screw looking thing that comes with the nova chuck when you buy it do you mean?? I been mounting my bowl to be on a face plate getting the shape for the chuck like you say then I take the face plate off put on the chuck unscrew the bowl to add to chuck because you are going to dig it out anyway so my screw holes from the face plate have all been gone. I did wonder what that screw thing is for is that right understanding?
Toni

[DJ’s Timber]

Cedar is that the screw looking thing that comes with the nova chuck when you buy it do you mean??

Toni that is correct, if you like I have bit of timber set up like that on the shelves and could take a photo for if you like

Cheers DJ

[lubbing5cherubs]

That would be awesome could you show me if you don't mind. THanks DJ
Toni

[DJ’s Timber]

Ok people no picking on my turning or timber:rolleyes: :cool:
First picture shows screw mounted in chuck
Second picture shows timber screwed onto screw in chuck

ALWAYS put the screw in chuck first and make sure that the chuck is tight. Then drill a undersize hole in timber and screw it hard up against the jaws on your chuck and start up lathe at THE slowest speed your lathe will do to check it is not to far of centre

Please note that the screw is only designed for small bits of timber. If you put a piece on that is to big it will break the screw after you have started the lathe and gods knows will this will end up

Cheers DJ

[macca2]

I would also add that when using the screw or chuck, always bring up the tailstock for safety. Leave it there for as long as possible. You will have to remove it to make a recess for the chuck but can leave it there if you turn a spigot. Make sure the recess or spigot has a slight taper on the edge to enable the chuck to grip better. Have a close look at your chuck and you will see the edge of the jaws are not parallel.
When reversed for the inside of the bowl you will have to remove the tailstock at some time.
Take care.

macca

[Wild Dingo]

DJ and Cedar... THAT is exactly what I wanted!! See now even a total novice can SEE how its done and with the explainations and additions to that explaination by others Im ready to have another go

Cliff Im pretty close to the Bunbury Woodturners mob (about 1/2hour from here) But as Ive said Ive a)been working away from home b) been crooker than a dogs hind leg and c) am presently just barely hobbling due to a totaled kneecap and cartlidge so for now at least that mob are a "no go"... I have in past times offered to have fellas here to show an tell but so far no bites :( so I havent asked again :rolleyes: I dont mind supplyin the timber or the tools just to have someone at my lathe showing me how to do it would be worth anything

Mind you the weather around here just now sucks totally and with me bung leg Im not overtly bothered... this thread SHOWS me pretty clearly that my initial attempt was on the right track but it also shows me where I was going wrong...

Wrong #1... I used a couple of woodscrews through the face plate instead of that bolt screw thing... Id looked at it and scratched my noggin and decided to use the woodscrews

Wrong #2... I had the lathe turned up high (had been turning pens prior)

Wrong #3... I hadnt figured out where to go from the first faceplate turning if it had been successful which it wasnt

I had not figured out how to attach a lump of wood to the chuck and now can see clearly how to do that... ie: mount to the screw on the faceplate turn outside leaving spiggot to fit the chuck... remount the item spiggot to the chuck tighten and turn the inside... then I guess when done cut of the spiggot?

I guess its much the same for a platter? although with the screw you would end up with a hole in the centre surely?... Okay Im intending on doing a lazy susan so the top piece of timber (sheoak) is only going to be about an inch thick at the most and probably more likely to be about 1/2in thick when finished but its going to be about 8 or so inches in diameter... now I know that as I ask this one of you blokes will post how you do a plater or lazy susan turning and that mate is whats so vitally important about this site to me... the info!

I knew within a nano-second that Id done something wrong when I tried it before but the only thing that came to me was that perhaps it was set too fast... and thats what the book I have said... however the book didnt have anything on the spiggot thingy (that I can remember without going and finding the book which I dont have to cause you blokes have now answered me!! :cool: )

Trouble I have with books is that Ive got a short attention span and am blessed with a total inability to sit still and just read a book for more than a few minutes this makes books a bit of a problem... when I get or buy them I will sit and devour them totally then put them aside where they stay... I then find Im too busy to stop for an hour or so to simply read the thing again

Here I can get the info without stress or strain and go try it out straight away... or leave it and come back at a later date type in the key search words and find it again easy as... then print it off take to shed and do... a books a buggar its to friggin easy I mean you just look in the bookcase pick it up sit down read go to shed do... and the worst part is for me anyway theres no interaction with anyone!! and Im a visual bloke I need to see pics and gather different opinions and ways of doing things... options you know? ;) But I see in this case its all very similar

What Id like to see is others coming up with those things that confuse irritate stump or otherwise confound them so you blokes to come up with the "heres how I do this" and help each other (and those lurking) to get better and more confident with what we do

Cheers!! and thanks! :cool:

[rsser]

Some options:

If you're committed to doing nat edge pieces, a set of Shark or Pin jaws gives you more choices: Shark for deep and Pin for small.

Or if your blank is pretty regular, faceplate rings are IMHO more simple and quick than the wood worm.

[lubbing5cherubs]

Hey Dingo leave your books in the loo you get time to read them that way. That what we do here. :-)
Toni

[DJ’s Timber]

Here is a view of a recess, which I use on 99% of my bowls and platters. I use a small skew chisel which I grind to the same angle as the dovetail on my bowl jaws which is shown as well.
For platters where there is not a enough timber to screw a faceplate on, just glue a sacrifical block of wood on the top side and then shape the bottom and turn in the recess. Now you can mount it on the chuck and just turn the sacrifical block off as shown

Cheers DJ

[Terry B]

Wrong #1... I used a couple of woodscrews through the face plate instead of that bolt screw thing... Id looked at it and scratched my noggin and decided to use the woodscrews


Cheers!! and thanks! :cool:
This is not quite wrong. I agree with the other posts but one thing that is important with the use of the central screw is that you need a flat area on the face of the blank that the chuck jaws gripping the screw can seat against. If your blank is uneven (i.e. the curved outside of a log destined to be a natural edged bowl), when you tighten up the blank onto the screw you will bend the screw(don't ask how I found this out:mad: )
I have found that for irregular pieces it is safer to mount the blank on a faceplate using enough screws to hold it safely. This may reqiure different length screws to reach the wood if it is curved.
After it is secure on the faceplate I then turn it round and finish the base putting a recess in the base. You can then take it off the faceplate and mount it on the chuck to hollow it out and finish the outside.
I hope this helps

[Wild Dingo]

Well... see now sometimes I takes a wee bit of time for things to come clear eh? ;)

See I just wandered out there and had a gander... found the screw but couldnt work out how it fits on anything... so I come back and kick the kid of and bring up this thread and find it goes into the centre of the supa nova chuck as shown... Thank you... now the other question I had seems to have been answered as well that of connecting the face plate to the timber with screws thanks again with that one seems I was on the right track :cool:

Now your all saying its okay to glue a sacrificial peice to a platter piece? right so I turn its bum leaving a spiggot (cant see me bein able to do that small thing just yet) turn it and turn the sacrifice of as well? what glue do you suggest to hold it? just standard pva? or that yellow glue? or something a bit more stronger epoxy? :eek:

Cheers again fellas :cool:

[DJ’s Timber]

G'day Dingo

I use the yellow glue, Titebond 2. Some people I know use hot melt glue as well(not to sure on how big You would go with hot melt glue)

Cheers DJ

[Wild Dingo]

Cheers DJ... thats great cause I ran out of the pva stuff but still have about 4 litres of the yellow titebond stuff :cool:

[DJ’s Timber]

Cheers DJ... thats great cause I ran out of the pva stuff but still have about 4 litres of the yellow titebond stuff :cool:

This must be a record

I don't think I have seen a shorter post done by Wid Dingo:D ;)

Cheers DJ

[Cliff Rogers]

This must be a record

I don't think I have seen a shorter post done by Wid Dingo:D ;)

Cheers DJ

It has to go close to it. :D

[Wild Dingo]

:p :p Just cause I had a couple of momentary lapse's doesnt mean yous can get confident and cocky you know! :rolleyes: :D

[Don Nethercott]

I'm definately no expurt, but here is my 2 bob's worth anyway.

I used the big screw in my Vicmarc chuck once or twice then came up with something that works better - for ME anyway.

Firstly I prepare the wood so there will be as little vibration as possible caused by out of balance - ie I run it through the thicknesser to get both surfaces nice and flat. Then I cut a nice round blank on the bandsaw. This gives a pretty well balanced lump of timber. However if doing a burl or something similar you don't want both sides flat so flatten one side only - use a planer and/or a disc sander.

I then find and mark the centre point.

I then attach the faceplate that came with the lathe to the piece of timber with 4 30mm screws. See the picture of an example.

This is fine for bowls as I do the bottom of the bowl first, even down to final sand and polish (with shellawax of course).

Then I turn it around, put it in the Vicmarc and do the inside. This cuts out the holes left by the screws.

If doing a plate or platter use a sacrificial bit of timber glued with whatever but I use Triton PVA. This I also prepare like the lump of timber - through the thicknesser and rounded with the bandsaw. Turn the bottom of the platter first then when you turn it around make lots of shavings cutting the sacrificial bit off, or cut it off using the parting tool.

Have fun
Don

[Wild Dingo]

Sorry Don got sidetracked :o
Thanks for those tips mate I was still cautiously wondering about the platter thing :cool:
I do want to say thanks to all of you who have assisted with advice tips and tricks with this thread I do believe its given me options and encouragement to keep hammering away at this turning caper
So
Thanks! :cool:

[Wild Dingo]

Just thought Id bump this one back up and clarify something I mentioned in my first post regarding "not linking to American sites as Im so over them blokes"... that comment wasnt a slam at the US mob just my inadequate way of making sure I got links if any to Australian sites... I recognise that theres heeps of American sites with an increadible amount of info which I appreciate but sometimes a bloke just wants some good old fashioned Aussieness in the sites he visits for info ;)

Okay now weve cleared that wee booboo up... carry on ;)

Cheers! :cool:

[tashammer]

i'm still waitin fer a pic of the knee. It would be nice if a pyrography bloke did a picture of the knee on a plate or a tray. Just a little memento.

[hughie]

See I just wandered out there and had a gander... found the screw but couldnt work out how it fits on anything...


WD, I use the screw thingy.... :D for all my initial Bowl turning, depending on what type of chuck/screw etc you have, will dictate which way to fit it

http://www.sydneywoodturners.com.au/site/articles/techniques/rechucking.html

http://www.woodturns.com/articles/tools/mounting_wood.htm

SupaNova2 manual
http://www.teknatool.com/products/Chucks/G3/Downloads/G3%20Chuck%20Manual-final.pdf#search=%22wooden%20Bowl%20chucking%20screws%22

perhaps the best one for different methods of attachmnet
http://homepage3.nifty.com/manasan/english/diy/turning/turn-1.htm




? what glue do you suggest to hold it? just standard pva? or that yellow glue? or something a bit more stronger epoxy


All I use is PVA and it works fine, you can use epoxy but it costs more, so why bother.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Dingo, I started making a video showing different ways to safely mount blanks, just for you... but it rapidly became a comedy of errors with me ranting at the #$%#$% camera. How many buttons do one o' those things need just to turn on? :mad: So yer all outta luck in that department!

But here's a method no-one else seems to have covered yet: the photos show what I call a "wedgie chuck" that was made by a bloke down here in Vic. Can't remember his name, sorry, the chuck came with a lathe I bought. The bloke is pretty well known though, I'm just growing forgetful in me dotage. :rolleyes: Perhaps someone here knows it? If not, I'll ask the bloke I bought the lathe from... but something tells me you might be able to make your own.

Pic 1 shows the thing "opened up" & the tool to tighten it. It's just a 1/2" socket... the big brassy bit is internally threaded to suit the headstock (1" x 8tpi in my case) with a bolt running through to the wedge. Hell, ya can see how it's made fer yerself!

Pic 2 shows how it's tightened up and pic 3 shows it on the lathe. (BTW, see those jaws on my SuperNova2? They'll grip about an inch of wood at a time and are the absolute smallest jaws I'll use when turning goblets... ;) ) If ya make yer own, take note of the ridges on the "wedge" part at the end... they dig into the wood and are what stop it from spinning.

So, wotcha do to mount the blank is simply get a log or whatever, drill a 2" deep hole in it with a 20mm spade-bit, slip this bugger in until the "shoulders" touch the wood and then tighten it up with the socket. Then the whole kit'n'kaboodle is screwed onto the headstock. It can handle very large, unbalanced loads (at low RPM of course!) without a problem with letting go. Enough for you to rough the outside and turn a flat on the tailstock end to mount a faceplate, chuck or whatever... and no tailstock getting in the way.

A very handy toy to have... :D

[TTIT]

Pic 1 shows the thing "opened up" & the tool to tighten it. It's just a 1/2" socket... the big brassy bit is internally threaded to suit the headstock (1" x 8tpi in my case) with a bolt running through to the wedge. Hell, ya can see how it's made fer yerself!

Unbelievable!!! :eek: The wedge is from a pushbike headstock - I only recognized it cos' I pulled one off a kids bikes I was turfing on the weekend and thought "this might come in handy one day!" :D :D

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

:eek: Well, I''ll be a...

You're right! I've no idea how I missed pickin' up on that... 'cept from saying it has been a looooong time since I made one o' my deadly treadlies. :D