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View Full Version : a couple of the latest - how much would you charge?



TimberNut
31st July 2006, 01:48 PM
Some (more) S&P grinders done recently. I'd rather some variety than turning more and more grinders. I gotta stop telling people I'll make 'em a pair.... :rolleyes:

How much would you guys charge for these items (per pair?) Taking into account there is cutting and gluing time before turning, would you charge more?

These 2 are Huon Pine and Figured Myrtle. 175mm high 50mm wide at the bases. Finished with our wonderful hosts sanding sealer, EEE and then Shellawax.

lubbing5cherubs
31st July 2006, 02:37 PM
I have absolutely no idea on prices but I wanted to say they are nice salt and pepper girinders.
bye Toni

Doughboy
31st July 2006, 02:40 PM
I have to say nice shakers mate....

What is the largest grinders you have made?

I wanna put in an order!

Pete

floobyduster
31st July 2006, 02:46 PM
Simple - the more you charge, the less orders you'll get! With cutting, glueing, parts, finishing etc you should expect a good return for quality and unique products.

As for price do a bit of homework on the net - for example look at http://chefspecialties.com/catalog/index.php/cPath/1 and http://www.weddinglistcompany.com.au/listproducts.asp?Dept=49

They look great by the way. I can see why you keep getting orders :)

Doughboy
31st July 2006, 02:49 PM
With regards to price,

You can buy a resonable set for around $34 from places like myers, or house, or peters of kensington but I would charge a little more to account for the personalised touch.

Hope this helps

Pete

Jack Plane
31st July 2006, 04:47 PM
Just to cover your materials costs and pay yourself at McDonald's rates you would have to charge at least $55 each.

ss_11000
31st July 2006, 04:50 PM
nice work, as for price i rekon $70 sounds alright.

Auzzie turner
31st July 2006, 09:51 PM
where are you selling them?

Buzz
31st July 2006, 10:16 PM
$130 to $150 a pair. This is (at least) what a gallery would retail them for, and they look like gallery standard from here. I assume they are the better quality Danish mechanisms and not the cheaper Asian ones?

Chris

cedar n silky
31st July 2006, 11:06 PM
$130 to $150 a pair. This is (at least) what a gallery would retail them for, and they look like gallery standard from here. I assume they are the better quality Danish mechanisms and not the cheaper Asian ones?

Chris
I'll second that. I enquired at a quality kitchenware shop, and they only stock pepper grinders with ceramic mechanisms, that have a lifetime guarantee. You pay for it, but you would set your stuff apart from the cheap asian imports!:rolleyes:

TimberNut
1st August 2006, 10:53 AM
cherubs & doughboy & floobyduster - thanks for the compliments!
Jack - you're close
SS_11000 - I hope that cost is per item, not per pair!!
Buzz - yes, and I guessed about the same range.
Auzzie - word of mouth. I decided to try to build up stock of something to show people when they ask about my turning, but every time I make something, someone buys it off me.

These were sold for $75each (or $150 per pair). Some people baulk at the price, but it doesn't matter, cause the next person buys them anyway.

The last pair I did (posted here with asian pyrography and questions on finishing) were a present so a freebie to repay a favour.

All these others are because people ask for them.

I'm appreciative that I have standing orders, but I'm sure they'll run out quickly and then back to the 'hard sell'.

OGYT
1st August 2006, 12:18 PM
TimberNut, when you get what you ask, you're doing well. Just make sure you ask enough.
These truly look like quality pieces. Good work... :o)

La truciolara
1st August 2006, 06:21 PM
Real nice and original.
How much to charge for them?
As much as the potential customer is willing to pay for :D

ss_11000
1st August 2006, 10:12 PM
SS_11000 - I hope that cost is per item, not per pair!!
.

of course... i did mean to say that :o .

Zed
2nd August 2006, 08:27 AM
$35 per hour of labour
+
parts (timber, glue, hardware)
+
shop time / wear on toolware (taking up space that could be reallocated elsewhere / sharpening costs etc... say $10 per item)
+
markup. (%15 ?)

thats what I'd charge anyway.... mind you I dont turn!! :rolleyes:

ubeaut
2nd August 2006, 10:29 AM
Don't want to play devils advocate here, but did you seal the inside with anything.

If not I really don't think I would want to use them, as the huon pine can taint the flavour of salt which will readily absorb the natural oil from the raw timber, not sure about the pepper but would think it would also be tainted.

Something that many people don't look at when making wooden items for use with food is the timber selection. Any timber with high aromatics should be a no-no, same with oily timbers and some of the desert timbers which can be toxic.

Sorry if I have rained on your parade Timbernut but this is a pretty important subject and one that most people would never think about.

Cheers - Neil :)

PS If you used Shellawax on the inside you will need to keep the top off for a week or so to allow for the fragrance oil to dissipate or that too could taint the salt.

Groggy
2nd August 2006, 11:13 AM
Sorry if I have rained on your parade Timbernut but this is a pretty important subject and one that most people would never think about.

PS If you used Shellawax on the inside you will need to keep the top off for a week or so to allow for the fragrance oil to dissipate or that too could taint the salt.This is why I come here, these little pearls scattered around the forum.

TimberNut
2nd August 2006, 12:02 PM
Neil, NOW you tell me! I did think about finishing the insides, but I thought it was safer to leave au-naturale inside for fear of salt leaching into any finish I put in there. I was 'playing safe'. Bad guess right?

No, you aren't 'raining on my parade' ... well, actually, yes you are!:rolleyes: But that's OK, I appreciate the context in which the information is offered.

I had never planned on using the Huon (it's too nice and was planning on keeping for my private stash) but it was a request from the customer.

Funny you should mention it, she picked them up and rolled them in her hands, then, sniffed them.

Her comments, "beautiful and smooth, and I love the smell..."

I wonder if she'll like the taste?

Luckily I can get these back to refinish the insides.

Awesome forums! So many knowledgeable people out there. At least this is one mistake I can go back and fix! Thanks for the tip.

ubeaut
2nd August 2006, 06:10 PM
Finishing the inside with Shellawax or anything else for that matter won't he easy and could create more problems.

Personally I wouldn't get them back for finishing inside. However, you might suggest to her that she fill them with baking soda for a few weeks before using, this could draw most of the oil and fragrance from the timber. I say could because I don't really know if it actually will, but it is great for getting rid of odours, etc so no reason why it won't.

Just have to suck it and see.

Cheers - Neil :)

reeves
3rd August 2006, 01:46 PM
just charge as much as you can get mate, seems different markets have different needs and levels, depend son demand and if you dont want something jus hanging a around i gues u sell it to who wants it.

Seens hepas of the S & P shakers in craft places, cost depend son size but heres so many its about 20-30 pair for small 50 for mid and up the larger ones, well over 100.

Charge what people and willing pay and create to suit demand and u should do ok..

cheeeeeeeeers
john

Skew ChiDAMN!!
3rd August 2006, 04:21 PM
After boring my mills but before turning the outside, I block the ends, pour in some pure tung oil and give 'er a few turns to spread it evenly before leaving it a few days to thoroughly dry. Pure tung oil's expensive and takes longer to dry, but the longer drying time means better timber penetration. ie. it can suffer surface wear and still seal the grain. Of course, it's also food safe. :)

With huon it's a bit trickier, being an oily wood. Teak's another, not that I'd recommend it, but.... :rolleyes: I'd run some DNA through first, to remove the natural oils from the surface before applying the tung oil and would later apply a second coat as a final seal.

Then I'd turn the outside and finish it however I wanted. :D

TTIT
3rd August 2006, 04:40 PM
I'd run some DNA through first, to remove the natural oils from the surface before applying the tung oil and would later apply a second coat as a final seal.

Skew - clear something up for that's been buggin' the hell outta me please!:(
This 'DNA' I know stands for denatured alcohol but what the hell is that in australian???? :confused::confused::confused::confused: I've never seen it on a bottle in Woolies or Mitre10 so I don't have a clue what I'm looking for (or do I go to the bottle-oh'?) :confused::confused::confused::confused::confused:

Skew ChiDAMN!!
3rd August 2006, 05:00 PM
Meths, mate. Meths. :D

Methylated Spirits, if ya want it in full... the "denatured" bit simply means "rendered unfit for drinking."

Basically 'tis just ethanol with an additive to make it undrinkable. Traditionally 10% methanol, hence the "methylated" part but may be quite a few other things such as isopropanol or methyl ethyl ketones.

TTIT
3rd August 2006, 05:06 PM
Meths, mate. Meths. :D

Methylated Spirits, if ya want it in full... the "denatured" bit simply means "rendered unfit for drinking."

Basically 'tis just ethanol with an additive to make it undrinkable. Traditionally 10% methanol, hence the "methylated" part but may be quite a few other things such as isopropanol or methyl ethyl ketones.

Ahhhhrrrrhh - now I get it!:D So a tin of nugget makes it fit again - right!;)