hollow forms

[mick61]

Hi i am sure this question has been asked before. I am after info on the best or easier tools to use in hollow turning,ie Is a solid hss tool better than a tool with a tip attached, what angle on the tip?:confused:

[Auzzie turner]

Use a large bowl gouge, round nose scraper, and a Robert sorby hollow master. Also use whatever specialist hollowing tools you can get a hold of.


Regards

[La truciolara]

You are shooting a one million dollars question.
First of all it depends on the orientation of the wood.<O:p</O:p
If the fibre is parallel to the lathe you could start with a spindle gouge. Of course in that case you will be limited in depth.<O:p</O:p
If it is perpendicular to the lathe, you can use a bowl gouge.<O:p</O:p
Now, is it better to use a tool with some tip attached?
In fact you have no other choice if you want do go deep, the choice is only to select the “best” tool and for that there is a million answers as there is a million wood turner.<O:p</O:p
You could by the Termite from Oneway, quite easy to use, the Munroe, the Vermec, ….etc…
may I suggest you try them at a woodturner’s club prior to invest.<TO class=inlineimg title="Stick Out Tongue" border="0" smilieid="6" alt="" src="images/smilies/tongue.gif" investment?<o<img significant a make /></O:p

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Personally I find tipped tools more prone to chatter, so I hog out as much material as I can with a bowl gouge and/or scraper, then fall back to the tipped tools to remove timber where the others won't.

As to which tools are best:


the choice is only to select the “best” tool and for that there is a million answers as there is a million wood turner.

:D

[hughie]

Hi i am sure this question has been asked before. I am after info on the best or easier tools to use in hollow turning,ie Is a solid hss tool better than a tool with a tip attached, what angle on the tip?:confused:


Mick its pretty well as Claude points out.A million dollar question, or if you like horses for courses. :D and Skews observation is about right as well. Some timber you can get away with it some not. I like doing it with green timber, as its more forgiving on my tip tools.

Open bowls for me its a gouge and plenty of grunt from the lecky mota [1hp+] so I can get stuck in and remove as much as I can asap.I have yet to use a double grind on my gouge. But after Stu's post on it I will definitley have a go at it.Thanks Stu!

Enclosed bowls, you have gotta something thats bent to go around corners. Swan neck, Goose neck call it what you want.Its just gotta be bent

Brand names, Munro works well but can be prone to some clogging, especially green stuff. I tend use it for final thickness work
Proforme, great for riping into bowls, it can be set for bulk removal or quite fine cuts as well. Does not clog much, but......if try hard enough..:D

Ashley Isles bounces around a bit, you've got have the orientation correct and even then its prone to some chatter.
Tried it on a dry burl :eek: and it will be while before I do that again. :D

Oland I have a home made version thats ok but I just use it for clean up work along the bottom of my bowls, sorta like a skinny scraper.

TTIT has a version of munro/proforme that shows great potential and is one I enjoy using . But I am still playing with it :D thanks Vern

I tend to scrape the final surfaces especially on the inside this keeps down the sanding. Sanding is not my favourite pass time.;) and I find it good for final shaping

Thats enuff pontification for one nite

[Jim Carroll]

Munro Hollowing tools for me.

Work well and can do open and hollow forms.

If you find it clogs just open the gap a little bit more as it self feeds to clear itself.


Rolly will be in Melbourne at the woodshow on our stand demonstrating his hollowing tools on the Teknatool DVRXP lathe so this would be a good chance to see the tool in action and ask any questions you may have.

[hughie]

If you find it clogs just open the gap a little bit more as it self feeds to clear itself.
Rolly will be in Melbourne at the woodshow on our stand demonstrating his hollowing tools on the Teknatool DVRXP lathe so this would be a good chance to see the tool in action and ask any questions you may have.
[/QUOTE]

Jim, Thanks for that, now that you mention it, it seems obvious....:D

[Big Joe-USA]

Hi Mick,

If you have access to a welder and some 3/4" cold roll steel you can make your own hollowing rig. Check out Lyle Jamiesons site, gives you dementions and everything you need to make it.

http://www.lylejamieson.com/tools/tool.asp

I made mine from pipe, but I'm going to make another out of cold roll, think it will be better.

Here's a pic of mine and what I turned with it. If you make one...look into a laser setup to go with it.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b156/jt6089/HR009.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b156/jt6089/HR011.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b156/jt6089/BEnMagnolia002.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b156/jt6089/BEnMagnolia003.jpg
Boxelder Vase

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b156/jt6089/formbox005.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b156/jt6089/formbox007.jpg
Maple and Walnut

Hope this helps.....Lemme know if ya have ant questions......

Joe

[rsser]

Jim, Thanks for that, now that you mention it, it seems obvious....:D
Think a paper washer has been mentioned to help with clearance (under the cap).

Neat pieces Joe.

btw, have seen Guilio demo a crow bar with a scraping tip for deep hollowing; that's the 'aussie way' ;-}

[mick61]

Thanks guys for all the advice. I had a mate drill out some 12 square steel to take a 9mm rod of HSS it worked better than what i was useing. I will definately be at the show to see rolly in action.:) I don`t like the idea of useing the vermec type frame and laser it`s hardly woodturning to me.Not that there is any thing wrong with that method each to there own:cool: