Instant bark!!!

[TTIT]

Just about finished hollowing the little She-oak burl and Gidgee pot in Pic.1 & 2 and that noise we all hate to hear started getting louder. Stopped the lathe and found there was no wood at all from top to bottom along the bark-inclusion I was hoping to keep :(. Don't know how it didn't just fall apart. Thought it might be time for the bin but I've never let a chunk of wood beat me yet :cool:. Ran some masking tape over the gap (was up to 3mm wide) on the inside and fished out that black powder I played with in THIS THREAD (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=34121) recently. Instead of filling it completely, which would have looked like crap on this piece, I settled for just enough to hold the piece together, hit it with the CA and voila! - instant bark! Looked fine and gave it enough strength to continue finishing the piece.:D:D
Made a note to myself to NEVER EVER EVER try waxing a piece like this AGAIN! Anyone know how I can clean the lint and excess wax out of the rough spots now???:o:o
Started another piece of She-oak burl which has several bark inclusions that go right through so I'm giving it the same treatment. Excuse the crappy pics but Pic.3 shows the inclusion and you can see the hole if you look real close. Pic.4 shows the powder in place and Pic.5 shows it after the CA is applied.
I know this stuff is too expensive for general use if you get it from the Snap-on guy but I'm going to try and find another source. I doubt very much that Snap-on developed it so there must be another source which hopefully can provide it at a reasonable price. It's just too good not to have in the kit!:D

[RufflyRustic]

Lovely, another beautiful little pot.

Hmm, how about some tweezers and a magnifying glass ? :rolleyes:

Cheers
Wendy

[rsser]

Good save TTIT. Lovely piece of work too.

Yeah, wax and bark are not a good match. Maybe warm the piece up and get to work with a toothbrush. DO is better in my view and you can buy a stiff rotary brush for buffing irregular surfaces (not cheap though).

[TTIT]

Good save TTIT. Lovely piece of work too.

Yeah, wax and bark are not a good match. Maybe warm the piece up and get to work with a toothbrush. DO is better in my view and you can buy a stiff rotary brush for buffing irregular surfaces (not cheap though).
Thanks Ern. It had about 5 or 6 coats (very absorbent) of Danish and looked fine - I was just adding the traditional wax for that silky feel it gives (and the smell). Tried a toothbrush on it's own - will try warming it up a little next.

[floobyduster]

Made a note to myself to NEVER EVER EVER try waxing a piece like this AGAIN! Anyone know how I can clean the lint and excess wax out of the rough spots now???:o:o

How about a blow-torch :D - applied gently :D - well, enough to burn out the fluff :D and melt out the wax :D

[hughie]

[

Made a note to myself to NEVER EVER EVER try waxing a piece like this AGAIN! Anyone know how I can clean the lint and excess wax out of the rough spots now???:o:o
Started another piece of She-oak burl which has several bark inclusions that go right through so I'm giving it the same treatment. Excuse the crappy pics but Pic.3 shows the inclusion and you can see the hole if you look real close. Pic.4 shows the powder in place and Pic.5 shows it after the CA is applied.
I know this stuff is too expensive for general use if you get it from the Snap-on guy but I'm going to try and find another source. I doubt very much that Snap-on developed it so there must be another source which hopefully can provide it at a reasonable price. It's just too good not to have in the kit!:D
[/quote]

Vern,
Been there and done that, :D its a pain in the ......... To get my lint out etc. I resorted to a fairly stiff nylon type brush of long bristles and gently and labourously brushed it out along with compressed air. It took awhile but was worth it in the end. You loose a bit a of bark along the way but the bowl survives.

CA stuff, I have been trying to find some off cuts of plexi-glass which is some sort of polycarbonate. You can melt it with acetone to a consistancy that mimics CA. But so far I have only come across lexan and similar which is a acrylic....no good wont melt :( and the stuff that will melt it is :eek: :eek: :eek: .

Nice looking bits of timber, even better looking when its turned up. Good one.

ps check your mail ;)

[Gil Jones]

I do not know if these folks can, or will ship CA to OZ, (or what shipping would cost), but their prices are fair.

http://www.hinkleymall.com/caglue.html

I like your lidded pot!!

[hughie]

[

quote=Gil Jones]I do not know if these folks can, or will ship CA to OZ, (or what shipping would cost), but their prices are fair.

http://www.hinkleymall.com/caglue.html


Gil, 16flozs or about 1/2 a litre for 20AUD. that sound s like a good deal to me, might give them an email next month.

[Doc Ron]

[


CA stuff, I have been trying to find some off cuts of plexi-glass which is some sort of polycarbonate. You can melt it with acetone to a consistancy that mimics CA. But so far I have only come across lexan and similar which is a acrylic....no good wont melt :( and the stuff that will melt it is :eek: :eek: :eek: .

Hugie, respectfully, just FYI, plexiglass, tradenamed Lucite or Perspex, is poly methy methacrylate, that is, acrylic. I dissolves in acetone somewhat, but better in some other solvents. Polycarbonate, a far different material, tradenamed Lexan, comes apart in acetone, especially when stressed, altho is very shatter resistant, used for face plates, eyeglasses, etc. You are probably correct in wanting to get the plexiglas for this purpose, just the terminology is a bit off! You might try a local window glass shop for off cuts, or even buy some small pieces, it is not especially expensive here in the US if you don't need large or thick pieces. Would be interested in knowing how the mix would actually adhere to the wood, and might it become brittle when the solvent evaporates? Could it be mixed with sawdust? I have some, I might try this myself.

Cheers,
Doc Ron