I have a "bunch" of questions.......................

[sunshine]

Hi all:

I have been woodturning for about a year now and
over the time, some questions have come up. I know I will get good answers from this BB (butter-up enough???):D

How do you approach a piece to begin turning?
I have wondered, as I am venturing into the
segmented, open segmented, end grain, etc.
areas and wonder if the size of the tool used initially is important in relation to the
piece turned or if you pick up the "same" tool
to begin each item. I find that I go to the 1/2" bowl gouge to start, even on smaller items.

How about speed? I don't do giant bowls, so my lathe speed is usually around 900-1000 on most things. Do you get a cleaner cut at higher speeds, or does the sharpness of your tool control that aspect? I am mostly doing "dry" wood now, but have done a few greenwood bowls. I have about 15 various blanks of greenwood that I think I
am going to turn down rough and let them dry
for a while. The out-of-round from drying
after I complete a bowl is not my favorite thing... Do you think about 1" rough is a good
wall size to let dry? Is that enough to turn
round when take up the bowl again?

I have and have read 6-7 "bowl" books and see
that there are different ways of approaching
the subject. Would like very much for a few
"personal experience" comments on what works for you.

Looking forward to your input.

Thanks. Cheers, Phyllis

[Neil]

G'day Phyl - How do you approach a piece to begin turning?
You can sneak up on it if you like but I usually just stand in front of it and say "You talkin' t' me?....... Yeah....... Think your smart eh?........ Well, let's see how smart ya are when I cut ya down to size." Then pick up a bowl gouge and in to it.

The 1/2" (12 mm bowl gouge is as good as any to start with) Personally I would prefer to use a 5/8" (16mm) bowl gouge. It's a bloke thing, I like to move more wood in 1 hit. Also has a bit more metal and weight to it making for a smoother easier cut.

Speed. For anything up to 8" diam I like to run at around 1800rpm (once the shape is roughed to round) the faster the lathe runs the smoother the cut, the less force needed to control the tools and the faster the work goes. Slow lathe speed = slow cutting speed = harder to control tools and cut = frustration = woodcarving.

Speed definitely makes a difference. However the main factor is sharpness of tool and the bevel on the tool. For most bowl turning a short bevel is essential and will always reward you with easy turning and a good clean cut with smooth lines.

There are a number of so called experts out there now who use long bevels on their bowl gouges, usually to create long spectacular shavings in demonstrations. Unfortunately the ordinary hobby turner see this and think it is the right way, then others see theirs and a stupid idea becomes the norm. Finally they have to reach for a dozen different types of scraper to fix up the mess that the wrongly sharpened tool has produced. All the time blaming themselves for the bad turning and not the tool or the idiot that changed what has worked for centuries.

As for green wood: I like to turn green stuff really thin and then let it do its own thing. I love the leathery feel an gnarly look that thin-walled bowls get when they are allowed to dry without any outside interference.

My method is to turn the walls and base an even thickness usually 1/8" or less then wet sand through the grits up to 800 then use a dry rag on both inside and outside at the same time to dry the timber using friction, then a final dry sanding of 1200 grit and 1500 grit. Then apply Shellawax Cream inside and out and work it up to a high shine. This helps with the final stages of drying over the next few weeks, by slowing down the process a little and controlling the distortion and warping a bit.

The foot may need a little attention after a few weeks as this will be the only part that doesn't have an even wall thickness and will be inclined to warp or distort more than the rest.

1/2" wall thickness and leaving to dry is a pretty well tried and true method of getting the most out of your bowls. You could also try freeze drying your bowls. But that's another story.

Hope this is of some help Phyllis. I tend to have a few fixed ideas but they work and in some cases have done for decades. Some improvements in woodturning tools and technicues over the last 15 years have been amazing but not all of them are for the best.

Cheers - Neil. http://www.ubeaut.biz/wave.gif

[John Saxton]

What more can one add that Neil hasn't covered other than to say experiment with the different woods you have over there.

The denser wood may require more attention to detail,and heat generated off the tool but experience will win out as you vary your approach to all the techniques you have learned along the way.
As Stoppers (Doorstop) has said have fun,try different things but in a safe manner.

Turning wet can be fun and messy but exhilerating with the streams of wood being peeled as you round to size.
Rounding Bowls down to an inch(25mm) is an appropriate dimension to allow for trimming later on to size and profile and allows for a quicker drying time given that the bulk of the material has been removed.

One Hint I picked up on some years back was to save my shavings and bury the wet unfinished bowls in the shavings allowing for a a slower and a more even reduction of moisture content.
I date the box I store them in and check them with a moisture meter every 6 months.
Just my 2c worth.
Cheers:)

[sunshine]

:D Neil, Johnno, Stopper: Thanks for confirming some of my thoughts on the general issues of turning. I love your collective enthusiasm, it just spills over and in this case, I am the lucky recipient......

I think I have been "timid" try the really higher speeds, because I learned on a small Jet lathe at school and we were told not to go above 840..... probably for good reason in a school setting?

When I go home today, I am going to stick one of those green blanks on my lathe and let 'er rip! Am going to try the thin sides and see what comes of sanding down and Shellawaxing.......

Have been working 6 days a week (doing taxes) and when the end of April comes, will have Fridays and Saturdays free again.
Can hardly wait... lots of turning time....

Thanks again! Cheers, Phyllis ;)