routing MDF

[jow104]

I decided to make some cases for my sharpening stones and thought I would rout out recesses in MDF.

To other viewers

DONT BOTHER!!!!!!!

The dust is terrible and if you want to rout to a depth of 12mm that 12 passes at I mm a time anything deeper was trouble using my triton router table.

Can any viewer suggest an answer using MDF

John u.k.

[ubeaut]

Personally, I reckon there is no substitute for real wood when it comes to sharpening stone cases (boxes).

Having said that, I have 6 holders for sharpening stones each holds 2 stones and fits onto special spots on their own particular bench via dowels in the base of the holder and corresponding holes on their respective benches. These were used as sharpening stations for calsses. Each is made of malamine covered chipboard. The stones fit very snugly into the holes. Never housed these stones in boxes, just wrapped them in an oily cloth for transport or storage.

I also have some travelers that are housed in snug fitting timber base with a slightly less snug top, guess you could call them boxes. I wouldn't consider anything but timber for these ones.

Probably no help whatsoever, but here's hoping.

Cheers - Neil.:)

[John Saxton]

John, I don't use a lot of MDF but to get the recess'es you want why not drill out the bulk of the material with your drill press or with a hand held drill with masking tape on the drill bit just shy of the depth of cut so a final clean up pass with the router arrives at the desired depth.

It may be a slower process but will achieve what you want without the stress generated using your router moreover if the bit you are using is a little dull on the cutting edge.

Using a router on MDF require nothing shy of an extremely sharp bit ..a dull bit will generate heat which you don't want.

I find that I often use the drill press at times like this and in my view a very underrated tool with boundless applications.

Just some thoughts.
Cheers:)

[Eastie]

Think about taking the router out from under the table.

If you can only take 1mm passes in mdf there is something wrong.

With a good 12mm diameter bit and a template to follow or guideblocks at each end of the pass you should be able to accurately cut around 10mm deep per pass in no time at all.

for some good info have a look at Tom's site:
the best router use site on the net (http://www.wa1.quik.com.au/tomodonn/)

[soundman]

I have five comments.

Yep you would be better using solid timber even a nice piece of cheap pine would be better.

I would be inclined to chop it out with a chissel Considering the small size of the work piece compared to the waste. You could have it done by the time you sort out the router. (standart tec school project)

If you are going to use the router get it out of the bench and use a template

If you can't rip more than 1mm in a pass you have a real problem. I regularly cut 15mm ply in one pass in my template work. (hitachi tr12 1/2 inch bit)

Get yourself some dust extraction. Even a used houshold vac is better than choking in a cloud.

cheers

[jow104]

Thank you Johnno.
I drilled out the recesses with success.
The problem I think I have with the 1/2" router cutter supplied with my Triton kit is that there are sharp tips protruding at top of the cutter and I was getting a lot of grab and throw outs on the table.
I have not yet used a router free hand . (I'm frightened!!!)

[John Saxton]

Hi John, it's a healthy human concern to be frightened, enough to be wary.
However never be scared because that will erode your confidence.
Freehand routing is an exciting outing using templates/jigs and guides,do a search here for Tom O'Donnell , he has material that he has produced in the form of CD's and Books that can also help.

How about clamping some waste timber on your bench top preferably a soft timber like pine and practice your cuts with a slow steady approach...we've all been there and of course if you take your time ,think about your actions and that of the router and you will be fine and because the timber is clamped any reactive force is lessened to a more comfortable degree.
Think in terms of how you apply your router when it is mounted in the bench...you're moving the timber and it absorbs the force whereas and conversely with handheld the force is transmitted to your own firm grip on the router and you have total control over the cut to the point down the track where you will be able to eventually have confidence to do back cuts.

If you have a soft start function on your router allow it to build to speed and remember the machines only a tool but the bit (providing it is sharp) is the application.

Even better if you can get /beg/steal or borrow a router book ...such as Patrick Spielmans "Router Techniques" one of many good books around on the subject then this will also offer up more on the uses of a versatile tool.
Just some thoughts.
Good luck in your endeavours.
Cheers:)

[jow104]

Hi Johnno

You have inspired me. I'm going out to the workshop in a few minutes and will hve ago.

Hope I can still type this evening.

[jow104]

I finished my cases for sharpening stones in MDF completeing the recesses with a forstener bit in my drill press.
Although the cases are not a work of art they are quite practical, I sealed inside the cases with diluted PVA glue and then put on the water type varnish.

My old father in law would be delighted as the two stones were part of his tool kit which I estimate dates about 1925, and he passed away about 22 years ago aged 92. and ex coach builder by trade.