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rsser
26th November 2006, 05:38 PM
1. Ash bowl: shallow recess which I managed to sand through (doh!). Not much meat left to play with. Foot in contrasting timber occurred to me but there's little room to go up and a taller foot would look daggy.

2. Record tool with bevelled disc designed for fine end-grain cuts: I can't get a good edge on the disc and I'm paranoid about catches. Good long handle and shaft though .... so? (Disc is fitted to shaft with a grub screw but I'm happy to cut grind and fiddle).

Ideas for recycling welcomed.

ptc
26th November 2006, 06:13 PM
insert a coin ?

Jackson
26th November 2006, 08:25 PM
Ern - beautiful timber in the bowl. Looks a lot like Jacaranda. One thought - you could clean out the thin bit inside the rebate so you have a complete hole with parallel sides. Then turn a flat disc of timber of a contrasting colour, glue it into place and finish turning it as though it was the original. You just need to be able to rechuck from both sides.

Cheers

hughie
26th November 2006, 08:37 PM
[Ideas for recycling welcomed


Ern,
I looked at the same tool and had similar visions or paranoia...:D didn't get one.........fear factor..:D :D

Hmmm seeing you cant hide it, make it into a design feature. I had a problem much like this with a light coloured Camphor Laurel bowl, ended up using a piece of Eucalypt burl.... corner cut off from a sq blank. CA glued in place.
The trick is to get that which complements the existing bowl shape and wood colour.

Captain Chaos
26th November 2006, 10:22 PM
G'day Ern,
I think that I would turn the hole in the base of the bowl out to approximately the inside diameter of the foot. Turn a plug of contrasting timber - perhaps red mallee or coolabah burl - to the same diameter of the hole and glue in with Araldite or CA glue. Make the plug about 1" thick in order to give you something to grip in the chuck. (Turn a spigot on one end when turning to size.) When finishing the outside ( foot ) try to follow the contour of the bowl so that the base has a slight convex which will give you a bit more thickness in the base. Just make sure that apex of the convex is just a smidgen below the foot, otherwise you'll have a rocking bowl!:eek::D
As for the Crown ring scraper thingy, get a length of ⅜" ( 10mm ) ø bright steel rod approx. 140 - 150mm long & ground true / flat on one end. drill a hole centrally in this end & tap out to accept the bolt that retains the tool. Screw the ring scraper thingo onto this piece of steel, making sure that it is very tight. Take the setup to an engine reconditioning shop & get them to grind the cutting face in a valve facing machine. they will be able to set the correct angle & give a very good sharp / smooth finish.
Perhaps your local motor garage will have a valve facing machine. Worth giving them a call.
Hope these suggestions are of some help to you Ern.
Regards,
Barry.

ticklingmedusa
26th November 2006, 10:51 PM
First , i was thinking a material with highly contrasting color like the others say ... If it was mine maybe ebony.
Other ideas perhaps a stone cabochin, malachite or black onyx,
maybe a mirror.
When it happens to me sometimes I put the blowouts on a shelf for a while until the muse whispers to me. It might take a day or a month I just wait.
Recently I did something similar to a hollow form of cocobolo.
The blow out was more on the side wall and there was just enough fiber left to keep the form intact. I used ca glue & sanding dust inside to seal & strengthen it but the light still came through. My brother saw it and was intrigued by the band of light from the inside. No sale but he liked it so it became his.
Another reason why turning is so great; often mistakes can become
design opportunities.
peace,
tm

soundman
26th November 2006, 11:36 PM
Drill a hole in the bottom of the bowl and turn it into a lamp shade:D

TTIT
27th November 2006, 09:37 AM
Instead of a contrasting plug, if you've still got some of the same timber, what about using a plug of the same type with a narrow, strong-contrasting rim (like Gidgee ;) ).

Dunno what to make of that tool ??? Sharpening would be easy enough using a diamond stone with the cutter mounted in a drill press but just how you use the thing leaves me baffled!:(

OGYT
27th November 2006, 02:01 PM
Just a suggestion from a phulish olde phart from upover.:D
For the bowl: open the bottom clear to the edge of the foot. :eek: Turn a wedged piece of contrasting wood, made so it fits perfectly inside the bowl, with a tenon that fits thru the opening in the bottom. :confused: Glue it into the bowl. When the glue sets, turn the bottom so it makes a nice foot that matches or continues the outer flow of the bowl's curve.:confused:
Then turn a taller-than-the-bowl center post, to mount inside, from straight-grained hardwood,:confused: and turn a hard, anvil-type thingy with a hollow in the top to mount on top of the post.:confused:
Next, turn a small mallet from hardwood.:eek:
Then you got a really nice nut bowl for Christmas.:D

Skew ChiDAMN!!
27th November 2006, 09:54 PM
Geeze, no-one here has any imagination! :rolleyes:

Don't bother "fixing" it, instead make the hole big enough that you can fit it over your middle finger. Then, holding it in the palm of your hand with finger inserted, fill it full of mixed nuts, jelly-beans or whatever and offer some to yer grand-kids.

My finger-food bowl scored two full diapers, a couple of kicks in the shin and a clout around the ear before I was forced to consider plugging it. :D

Cliff Rogers
27th November 2006, 11:10 PM
Go with Skew's idea. :p

rsser
28th November 2006, 07:23 AM
Would give new meaning to the term finger food if the kids weren't too discriminating :D

Thanks for all the suggestions re the bowl. Plug is prob the way to go but the turning will have to be spot on as the join will be there front and centre. I've done this once before with a redgum plug before discovering how much that timber moves. There is some ash left to try TTIT's idea but the growth lines are about 50mm apart at the bottom and grain-matching will be a challenge.

The good thing is that the bowl has barely moved across the 235mm top diam so the foot should still be centred.

Re the tool:<o>
</o><o></o>
Hughie & TTIT, I think you’re supposed to use the edge at about <st1:time minute="30" hour="10">10.30am</st1:time> in a slicing action. My sharpening put the burr on the inside where it could do no good. A hone improved things but nowhere near the Munro Hollower I have so I put the tool away. The only guy I know of who speaks well of this tool is Herman de Vries in the States.<o></o>
Barry, .. think I get you, and thanks. Think I’d still be paranoid!

Following Skew's thinking maybe the disc should come off and a wind-driven propellor stuck be in the shaft.<o></o><o>
</o>

Skew ChiDAMN!!
28th November 2006, 03:38 PM
Hughie & TTIT, I think you’re supposed to use the edge at about 10.30am in a slicing action. My sharpening put the burr on the inside where it could do no good. A hone improved things but nowhere near the Munro Hollower I have so I put the tool away. The only guy I know of who speaks well of this tool is Herman de Vries in the States.

I refrained from commenting on the tool as I've never used one, however just yesterday I had a play with a similar toy. Instead of the disk being bolted square on to the end, the shaft had a machined 45&#176; bevel that was tapped out instead, which presents the cutting disk at a nice angle.

'Twas very simple to get this tool to cut nicely; also it came with a set of scraping tips in odd, organic shapes... a bit like the old french curve sets. You simply turn the tip around until the tip matches the curve of the bowl. Different! I'll be making one for myself as time allows...

Perhaps it'd be worth your while to experiment with a "scrap" handle to see if it makes any difference for you, and if it does, consider simply modifying the end?

Better a "hacked" tool that sees use than yet another dust collector... ;)

rsser
28th November 2006, 03:55 PM
Thanks for the thinking Skew.

My thoughts are now heading down the track of using the handle and shaft to carry home-made tips - scrapers or Oland tips etc. She's 65cm long overall and the steel shaft is 1/2" in diameter which might be a little on the light side.

What are you guys using for home-made handles for your own tools? Apart from the Record, my next shaft will need to be around 3/4" in diameter. Getting a bit big for a turned wood handle.

Skew ChiDAMN!!
28th November 2006, 04:19 PM
For my heavier round shafts, I'm simply slipping 'em into some old gal water pipe, fixing with grub screws. A sleeve of air-con pipe insulation for the grip and duct-tape where needed. Nothing flash, but it can be wighted as needed and is cheap. :o