Removing those sanding rings!

[docusk]

As you may recall, I'm returning to turning after a few years away due to bereavement.
Now I have my new lathe set up and NO MORE VIBRATION! (Thanks guys.)
My major problem is of finishing.
No matter how hard I try and how fine a glasspaper I use I can't polish out all the fine concentric rings, always very slight but can be seen on close examination. I do also finish off with fine wire wool soaked in friction polish.
Maybe they can't be removed but I find that hard to believe.
Anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong?

docusk
:?

[Iain]

I use a rotary sander, not powered, the sort driven by the lathe, see U Beaut products page, and work up to 1500 grit, fininsh with EEE paste and there is not a mark to be seen.
It took me a while to be convinced that this little gadget would work but I kicked myself afterwards for not getting one years earlier.
The finish is superb, start on whatever grit you deem to be suitable, although they start at 80 grit and progress through to smoothness of choice.

[docusk]

Thanks Iain, I do use the velcro backed disks but normally in a power drill, usually quite fast revving. That certainly helps, but I like to look of the Ubeaut device - and the other stuff - for that steer I'm grateful. I'll be dropping them an E about getting stuff over here.

docusk

[Iain]

Grovel mode on.
You will find Neil (head honcho, grand poobah, owner of this forum etc etc) very cooperative and easy to get on with, I'm sure he will point you in the right direction as to what can and cannot be sent via the mail, the sander won't be a problem but not too sure about the liquid flammable products.

[Gil Jones]

Docusk, they may not be sanding rings (???) Could be compression rings from the bevel or heel of your gouge. When the tool is riding the wood too hard, it crushes or compresses the wood fibers. That can go fairly deep, and be hard (time consuming) to sand away. May be easier to cut a bit more wood, and apply less pressure.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

They may also be artifacts left in the polish by the steel wool... next time, concentrate on buffing a 1" section with a good, clean cloth after applying the finish.

If, on removal from the lathe, you can see an improvement there then you know what the problem is. :wink:

[rsser]

What do you mean by sanding marks?

Deep scratches?

If so, go easy with the coarse paper esp on softer woods and make sure any discs you use aren't clogged.

[SawDustSniffer]

ive never gone to a higher grade than 280git , but i stop the lathe and hand sand in the direction of the grain after end grain sealing , it is time consuming but as a chippy i belive that you should never sand against the grain , ( there's 100 ways to skin a cat )

[DJ’s Timber]

usually quite fast revving.

This is half your prob

[docusk]

Wow, what a response! All good ones as well. I can see the merit and probability in all the replies.
I'll have a go at everything.
I don't think we have a forum quite like this in UK but I'm happy with you chaps.
Thanks for the Ubeaut, I never even noticed that they/he was the sponsor of the forum. I'll contact him and see if he'd be interested in getting a big supplier over here to take the products. It looks as though you have more really keen suppliers of bits and pieces that we need. Probably more interest as you have such beautiful wood down there.
Regards and thanks and in the words of the governor of California - I'll be back.

docusk
:D

[Little Festo]

Docust,

What finish are you using? if you are using Shellawax check this board for some troubleshooting tips. Pretty sure that you can have problems if you use too much Shellawax - concentric rings. You can cut it back with EEE then reapply. You should also use a clean cloth to apply.

When I 'wet sand' with oil I also give the piece a gentle wipe with oil to remove any surface sludge, this too can also show up as concentric lines if the oil dries although this can be removed with EEE, then buffed with Ubeaut natural wax. if you are prepared to ues a bit of elbow grease you can hand rub with EEE, going with the grain as "SawDustSniffer" does then buff with wax, may not be the quickest way but it's nice to rub the piece down by hand, particularly when you achieve a nice smooth finish.

if i look carefully at the piece during the sanding process I can tell if there are still any sanding or tool marks - this is why i suggest lloking ot the finishing process.

Hope this is of help - Peter

[hughie]

Docusk,

Hers a few links you can sort through it will give a good idea. hughie

http://benchmark.20m.com/articles/Finishing/woodfinishing.html

http://www.easttexaswoodturners.org/woodezine%20-%20Sand%20Inside%20a%20Turned%20Vessel.htm

http://www.hdv.net/tips/Sander%20Instructions.htm

http://www.woodcentral.com/russ/russ3.shtml

http://www.woodcentral.com/russ/russ3.shtml

http://www.woodturners.org/tech_tips/comer-finishing-2nd-edition.pdf

[Hickory]

:2tsup: All of the above mentioned techniques are good and often great but it really boils down to the simple rules of sanding. :?

#1 Always sand with the grain....:doh:
#2 Use graduating smaller/finer grits of sandpaper.:doh:

When sanding on the lathe, (Due to the piece is turning around it's axis) we will most always be in violation of rule #1, :no: so we have to devise ways to keep the sanding grits moving as close to "With the grain" as we can, That is what all those gismos and do-dads mentioned above, are for. The basic and simple way of dealing with cross grain sanding is to follow rule #2 and use progressively finer grits of abrasives. Between each progression I usually stop the lathe and hand sand lengthwise to the grain or in circular motion, to break down those grooves. Move on to the next sized paper and repeat.

The biggest problem is when we skip abrasive grades, thinking it is smooth enough (lets finish this sucker) all that does is make smooth grooves but does not eliminate the grooves. :B You need the next sized grit to break down the grooves. (and be sure to hand sand with the grain or circular motion between each size or grit)

The whole idea of gradual finer grits is to conver those grooves into two smaller grooves, and then those get cut in two again, then again & again untill they are so small they are almost gone then you use finer and finer to remove each and every one.

I too skip a grit from time to time but often I end up going back and "follow the rules" to get them out. Less work if you will go ahead and do it the first time.

It is all basic WWing techniques practiced by Craftsmen through the ages, long before the shortcuts we muster to try and duplicate their skills.


My $0.02 worth on this perspective....

PS.... I use those gismos too sometimes. :no:

Looked back over the other answers and saw a clue.....

:doh:Rule #3... Sand Slow.... Turn fast but sand slow. When you sand as fast as you turned, all you are doing is polishing the tops of the ridges and creating more friction than progress. slow down the lathe and then go back to the first of my posting.

[tashammer]

Nicely put Hickory

[Cliff Rogers]

I agree, good on ya Hickory for taking the time to type it all out.... greenie launched. :2tsup: