crack in a bowl

[benji79]

Hey guys, I made my second bowl, but once i got it to the right depth i realised there was a big crack in it.:~ Put this one down to inexperience..

Anyway is there a way of filling the crack and sanding it back. Ive already put my EEU stuff on it as i was going to leave it, but after seeing the end result I'm not happy with it.

Ill post pics as soon as i work out how to reduce them

[Caveman]

Hi - filling the crack with fine wood dust (as collected when sanding) and applying super glue will fill the crack - you can then re-sand. However it won't hide the crack, but should seal it and hopefully prevent further cracking.

[benji79]

Yeah, thats about all i wanted to do. Problem is ive cleaned my shed since then, looks like ill be looking in the corners for some left over dust.

Heres the pics anyway.

39061

39062

[dai sensei]

I would remove any wax with metho then use casting resin. I build up a dam with plasticene, and with a crack on a curver like that, it may take a few pours. When set, grind off the big chunks of resin with a file or dremel type tool with a sanding attachment, that way there are less sharp edges to fracture. You can go for just clear resin or add some pigment to get the colour of your choice.

Alternatively you can use brass filing, or use semi precious rocks crushed up to fill the crack, fixing in place using thin CA to start with, and thick CA to finish. A search of this forum will give some examples.

Good luck.

[Caveman]

How about trying this: http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=43914
Looks a good idea - am yet to try it but will do on the next suitably cracked piece i come across.

Didn't realize the crack was that size - could be made into a nice 'feature' of the bowl.

Let us know how it turns out after you've decided what to do.

What's the timber?

[DavidG]

Run it through the bandsaw. Straight half cut through the base.

It will teach you more about the shape you are cutting than any amount of measurement.

After cutting it run your finger/thumb over it feeling the wall thickness as you look at the edge.

When you have finished playing, glue the best half to a mirror tile and sell it as a special feature. :roll:

[Doc Ron]

I have used dried coffee grounds, glued in with CA. Gives a nice brown, woody color. Also have used brass powder and key machine filings from hehardware store. Nice bowl, worth saving.

[Hickory]

To begin with.... Salutations on Australia Day!:2tsup:

As for filling the crack and seeing where you had already cleaned the shop (another reason to not clean up a shop) and couldn't find any dust.

Well, Yesterday I was using my Random Orbital Sander, it has a dust bag attached. The findings that are in that bag are so fine and powdery that they can mix with just about any glue or finish to achieve a paste to match your project (assuming you sand a piece of wood the same color or your expected finished color)

Over the years I have used dust from a saw (much too grainy, looks more like particle board) and dust from lathe shavings (still too rough, looks like OSB) I prefer dust from sanding and the fine powder that collects in a ROS is the finest.

You can mix this dust with CA glue or DUCO Cement or Sanding sealer or White wood glue or Polyurethane finish. (listed in order of drying/hardening time) Allow to harden and proced to turn as usual. (Epoxy or Polymer resin could also be used but the cure time varies)

My method of insuring a good bond is to coat the crack area with the bonding agent and then apply a paste of the agent and dust. With CA, I coat the area, fill with dust, and then soak the dust. I feel that the bonding abilities of the paste is compromised by the dust and a "pure" layer between the material & paste insures a good bond. (no proof, just opinion)

[benji79]

Thanks guys, my wife is telling me to leave it as she thinks it looks like a feature.. Dont know what to do now. The wood is Taraga- I think thats how its spelt anyway.