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Caveman
31st January 2007, 01:02 AM
G'day all,
A few pics of my latest efforts for those who may be interested.

1st one is from Bottlebrush (I guess it could only have been Callistemon viminalis judging by the size of the tree +-8m). About 11" across. The pictures don't actually do credit to the amazing 'pinkness' of the wood - it was also suprisingly heavy.

2nd one is from East African Camphor (Ocotea usambarensis). I have been seeing all the Camphor Laurel you guy's use in Oz and wonder if there is some similarities botanically. This piece came from a crotch. Leaves a real nice smell in the workshop, but is pretty potent at the time of turning. 13" across. Have loads of this wood left from a large tree that recently had to come down from my dad's place - including some slabs that must be 3feet wide - don't know how my lathe will handle that!

The 3rd was a piece of timber off a pallet that came in with some equipment from France - as it was a decent size and didn't have nail through it I thought I'd see what it turned out like. It's obviously a conifer of some sort, but thats as far as I'd be willing to guess. About 8" across.

All were finished with linseed oil and beeswax.

DJ’s Timber
31st January 2007, 06:49 AM
Very nice, love the color of the bottlebrush and the camphor has similarities to ours here

TTIT
31st January 2007, 09:21 AM
Beautiful work Caveman. Your Bottlebrush has much nicer colour than the crap I've tried here - was so bland I turfed the stuff! Nice piece. The Camphor must be a very close relative - looks good. I've no idea what the other might be but it's amazing what you get from some pallets eh! I've got some stuff that came from Asia that is as black as ebony - must use it on something one day:B:roll:

Cliff Rogers
31st January 2007, 10:02 AM
All marvellous stuff, the 3rd one looks like oregan. :2tsup:

hughie
31st January 2007, 10:12 AM
Hi Andy,

As Vern says the bottle brush came up real well. The Camphor looks similar, I think climate also effects it. South of Sydney in Melbourne they don't seem to get the same wide colouring, browns to almost black and good flashes of red speckle.The older the tree the better the colour it seems.
Hmm dunno about the last one. The last pallet I used from Europe was made from the Baltic pine family, its a cheap and common timber there so I am told. But paler than yours and soft as butter.

I like they way you have added the rings to the edges, definitely dresses it up, nice touch.

OGYT
31st January 2007, 02:11 PM
G'day, Andy.
Some really nice work... I really like the rim treatments... timbers are all nice too. I nabbed a few pieces of camphor in Georgia last April... but neither piece looked like yours... snappy grain!!! Shed did smell good, tho.
I think that conifer must have been really soft... but you made it look good!

Caveman
31st January 2007, 08:29 PM
Thanks guys for the comments.
Struggled to get cleanly 'grooves' around the top of the rim. Used the point of a sort of small skew chisel type thing.
What do reckon would be the best tool for this job that wouldn't tear the grain?

The rescued pallet piece sure was soft - serious tearout before sharpening the gouge and finishing with real light touch. I guess all conifers are like that though.

joe greiner
1st February 2007, 12:17 AM
Nice touch with the grooves, Andy. Even did the bottom of #1 - that's finesse. #2 also? Third one looks like some sort of pine, but that doesn't narrow it down much. I also use the tip of the small skew. Seems to work best with a slicing cut & slow advance into the work.

Joe

Caveman
1st February 2007, 12:31 AM
Even did the bottom of #1 - that's finesse. #2 also? Third one looks like some sort of pine, but that doesn't narrow it down much. I also use the tip of the small skew. Joe

Thanks Joe,
Only 'grooved' the bottom of the bottlebrush one. Kinda like it though and will definitaly use it more.

ss_11000
1st February 2007, 11:13 AM
wat they said.....cool lookin bowls mate

Gil Jones
1st February 2007, 02:14 PM
Andy, fine work and beautiful wood!!

Wayne Blanch
1st February 2007, 04:33 PM
Andy, fine work and beautiful wood!!
Yeah what he said. Great job:2tsup:

BernieP
1st February 2007, 06:20 PM
G'Day Andy

Very nice certainly different bottle brush to what I have.

Cheers
Bernie

rsser
1st February 2007, 07:26 PM
Struggled to get cleanly 'grooves' around the top of the rim. Used the point of a sort of small skew chisel type thing.
What do reckon would be the best tool for this job that wouldn't tear the grain?

A V point scraper can be used too; it has the advantage when fresh ground of burrs on both edges.

Or with a firm and confident approach, use the skew with cutting edge vertical making the groove with the long point, first from one side and then from the other. (I used to cut my bowl recesses with a vertical skew til I learned easier ways).

Caveman
2nd February 2007, 12:00 AM
G'day - thanks all for the kind comments.



A V point scraper can be used too; it has the advantage when fresh ground of burrs on both edges.

Thanks Ern - now that you mention it, I actually have a V point scraper:doh: need to find where it is hiding. Albeit an ancient thing - carbon steel - donated to me a while back. Should do the trick - will give it a go.

rodent
2nd February 2007, 06:27 PM
A bill jones three ppoint scraper works well mine was made from a 8in piece of 1/4 in tool steel from mc jings .

lawee
3rd February 2007, 09:37 PM
Hi,
I really like your bowls. You mentioned that finished them with linseed oil and beeswax - did you apply the oil first then wax? if you are going to use the bowls for food use do you use any other oils such as orange oil or peanut oil? I have a selection of waxes from gillie stephenson from bunnings that seems to come up really well. Once again - great turning job!:2tsup:

Caveman
5th February 2007, 07:12 PM
Hi,
I really like your bowls. You mentioned that finished them with linseed oil and beeswax - did you apply the oil first then wax? if you are going to use the bowls for food use do you use any other oils such as orange oil or peanut oil? I have a selection of waxes from gillie stephenson from bunnings that seems to come up really well. Once again - great turning job!:2tsup:

G'day Lawee - thanks - I normally put on a coat or 2 of linseed, letting it soak in nicely (when I'm patient enough:) ), then apply the beeswax and buff with a soft cloth.

I believe that beeswax/linseed oil is food safe, but I stand to be corrected and would sure like to know if someone out there knows that it isn't (and why?).

In this part of the world all I can get is linseed oil and having my own bees keeps me in beeswax.