First Router Purchase

[cadnams]

I am brand new to the whole routing game and I am desperately chasing some advice.

As I always do I've been doing loads of research on what to buy. Theory is great and knowing everything about what you're buying is important, but nothing beats practical experience. This is where you guys come in.

I have been looking at routers in the 2HP range. I just think that a monster machine might not be the best learning option (am I wrong?). I intend to make a router table at some stage so I need a router that will suffice for that job (even if not perfect). However, when I feel the need to use big panel raising bits I will buy a more powerful tool. I imagine it will be quite a while before I can justify the need for a bigger one.

Anyway, in that range I have been looking at the Dewalt DW621 and the Porter-Cable 7529 (or now the 8529 I think). I know there are lots of Hitachi advertising volunteers out there (they must be good routers) and I here talk about the Makita's and to a lesser extent Bosch as well. I assume staying away from the "handy-man" level routers is the way to go? (sorry Mr Ozito) I am happy to spend the money on a good quality tool and I am looking for advice from those who have skills and experience that I lack. Thats you!

Thanks everyone.

Also, can you even buy Porter Cable routers in Australia??? I have been unable to find a retailer so far.

[Wayne Davy]

Mate,

Porter Cable are handled by Carbatec in Australia. BUT, if you are going to spend that amount of money on a Router go look at the Triton Router. This thing beats the pants of anything else on the market. Don't believe me, check out the reviews.

I have had an Hitachi MV12 and 2 GMC's big and little (which I still have) and now have the Triton. The others are good routers but not a patch on the Triton. Couple of mates have/got Bosch, Makita, etc. and now also have Triton's. Check one out you will not be sorry.

http://www.triton.net.au/products/router.html

[zymurgy]

Not to disagree with Wayne, but I do have the Dewalt and it's a damm fine piece of machinery.

Have a peek at http://www.patwarner.com/dw621.html

Pat also has a review of the Triton on the site as well. http://www.patwarner.com/triton.html

Regards

Gordon.

[cadnams]

Thanks guys.

I had looked into the Triton and I agree. From the point of view of features it is clearly the best around. Three questions I have about it:

1. Is it too big for hand held use for a beginner? (since a router table will be down the track a little)

2. I have heard some noise about poor build quality. Winders not working, internal bits coming off, router bits and 1/4" adapters slipping in the collet... Is this just the noise made by a a few people?

3. Are sufficient accessories available? I know it comes with a fence/cirle cutter, but others? Do I need them?

Re: the Dewalt. Does the trigger actually lock in the on position, which would be necessary if I was to use it in a table? I couldn't make it do it.

Cheers,

Cadnams

[Driver]

I've got to agree with Wayne - buy the Triton. I've been using mine both in the router table and hand held and I can't fault it.
In hand held use, although it's a big machine, it is beautifully balanced and if anything, it's size and weight allows you more control. In the table, you really appreciate the fact that you can change cutters above the table and make very fine height adjustments so easily.

As for teething problems, I had a problem with the 1/4" collet adapter (mine is an early model). Triton replaced it immediately I got in touch. I reckon their service is just excellent and that is really important. Any machine is susceptible to defects in manufacture. If the supplier is willing to rectify problems quickly without argument then their product is worth serious consideration.

My two bob's worth (tax-free!).

Driver

[zymurgy]

Yes, the Dewalt does lock in the ON position. It's a pull with index finger and push with thumb.

Gordon.

[barnsey]

Cadnams

I think you will find that MIK International carry Porter Cable. Their url is [URL=http://www.mik.com.au]

:D

Think I'm going to get a friend to visit the Triton shop in Melbourne and see if I can get one of their "seconds" with a damaged box though!!! :)

Jamie

[craigb]

Got to agree with the Triton recommendation. I really like mine - works very well in my router table and as mentioned, changing bits is a breeze!

[Stuart]

1. Is it too big for hand held use for a beginner? (since a router table will be down the track a little)

Nope- tried it freehand recently for the first time (and first time freehanding any router for that matter)- yes it is big, but given how much power it has, there is no "pushing" really to get it to 'glide' through the wood- only way I could think of describing it. Good router bits are a must of course- the router is only as good as the edge of the bit.



2. I have heard some noise about poor build quality. Winders not working, internal bits coming off, router bits and 1/4" adapters slipping in the collet... Is this just the noise made by a a few people?


Nope to all. I can't speak of the 1/4" collet- never used it. There was an issue experienced with the switch, but that has been rectified by Triton a while ago (had a small manufacturing hole letting in dust). For those who experienced the problem, Triton have repaired these under warranty.

3. Are sufficient accessories available? I know it comes with a fence/cirle cutter, but others? Do I need them?

Also has template guides. Not sure what other accessories that you'd need that are specific to a brand of router, rather than using any router available (such as a dovetail jig)

[Dan]

Doesn't the triton also have some sort of quick release plate? I intend to buy a triton also and this feature looked like it might avoid the hassle of making an insert when building a table and would also make it easier to remove for freehand work. I believe they are available as a spare part for about $7. Does this sound right?

[Stuart]

Yes to all the above :)

I've made a few jigs for my router, and have bought about 4 of these plates so far. when I make a jig, attach one of the quick-release paltes to it, and you can effortlessly (and perfectly aligned each time) attach the required jig to the router. $7 ea roughly. (can't remember the cents)

[craigb]

As a matter of interest, can you only get these quick release plates direct from Triton?
I've looked in my local Bunnies (Artarmon) a few times and they don't seem to stock them. Mind you, that happens a lot with me and Bunnings - they often seem to be out of stock of the very thing I need. :(

[Dan]

Getting a little side tracked from cadnams original question here but is the plate in question on this page.

http://www.triton.net.au/images/spares/RTA300.pdf

If not, is there a part number to use when ordering?

[kenmil]

I am not a huge fan of all things Triton, but you will have to look long and hard to find a better router.

[cadnams]

Any idea how much time I would be likely to spend using my router in a table (if I had that option) given that I am just learning?

You guys are making me lean back towards the Triton now. I found the PC 7529 (thanks for the tip on where I could find it) and it was considerably more expensive than the Dewalt DW621, even though people seem to think the Dewalt is better???

The kicker about the Triton is that we get it at a steal in Australia in comparison to the imported routers.

Cheers,

Cadnams

[Wayne Davy]

Well my Triton never leaves the table as that is what gets used the most (90%). I have a 1050w 1/4 GMC for handheld use. One day I will get another Triton - you cannot have to many tools :D (SHMBO does not think so but I do) :p

[mkcl]

Hi cadnams,

I've got the Dewalt and have found it to be a quality machine all round. Everything works the way it's supposed to: the dust collection is great, the soft start means it doesn't try to "kick" when you turn it on and it's not too heavy. I did look at the Triton in the store, but picking it up put me off it. I just couldn't imagine using such a heavy router free-hand without getting tired after a while.

I also had problems trying to get the Dewalt to lock on when I saw it the first time. As soon as someone showed me how the trigger worked, I had no problems, and it's a safe and reliable mechanism. Just ask someone at the store to give you a demo--you'll get the idea pretty quickly.

As for how much time you'll use your router in a table ... well, that really depends on what you are trying to make. When I first got my router, I mostly used it in the table since it was easier to control and get accurate cuts. Eventually, though, you'll run into a task that you can't possibly do on the table, so you'll have to bite the bullet and use it free-hand. I found that harder to do really accurately, but it's all a matter of practice.

[Template Tom]

One of the things that should be carefully looked at when purchasing a router is 'Can it be used both in the Router table and also be used by hand'
From the majority of postings in most forums the router is purchased to be used in the router table and some router experts say that is where you will get most use out of your router and that is where it should be.
Last Month at the Brisbane Wood show I was demonstrating the use of the router and it was used in the plunge mode for 99% of the time. With the aid of the template guides and the construction of simple templates you can produce a greater variety of projects and I must say with greater safety if it is used in the plunge mode.(With the use of he Guides) I will be in Sydney for the wood show next week and again I plan to show how you will "Get More from Your Router" with the aid of the guides.
So Purchase a router that can be used both in the router table and also used in the plunge mode. My recommendation also is to purchase a router that will take a 40mm template guide. (Some only produce narrow guides)
Have a look at my home page for some more information
Look me up at the Sydney show.
www.wa1.quik.com.au/tod

[John Saxton]

In view of the fact that most are advocating going for the big routers think in terms of the need to use it by hand and possibly for a lengthy period.
As has been stated a large router is of course ideal when mounted in a table.
If intending to use the same one out of the table for perhaps many tasks over a day then weariness and a lack of concentration could then ensue.Think in terms of the ergonomics being employed, with your stance required to maintain a modicum of safety in operating the tool.
A router that is comfortable to use ...ie that is a medium sized router that of around the 2hp range could be sufficient for your needs in that it will serve both functions and not cost you as much outlay.
Of course the only other option could be an outlay for the bigger router down the track providing your budget allows for it.Therein giving you one mounted in the table and the original one set aside for any hand operation that may be required.
I.ve got six of 'em and they're all used including trimmers.
Cheers:)good luck with your choice

[soundman]

The triton machine apears to be well featured but.


Don't even begin to compare it to the porter cable.
The big porter cable is a solid powerfull two fisted mother and its well mannered with it

There are a lot of good machines out there now

The hitachi tr12 is a solid proven design ( about $300 ) prefered by some to the m12 series.

the makitas are generaly proven.

the bosch has good dust extraction.

then you get into the festo, porter cable range.


As far a weight being a problem.
Unless you are doing edging functions weight is an advantage.

cheers.

[Helix]

The triton machine apears to be well featured but.


Don't even begin to compare it to the porter cable.
The big porter cable is a solid powerfull two fisted mother and its well mannered with it


Perhaps you should take a closer look. The Triton compares very favourably to the Porter Cable, and is a better engineered machine in my opinion.

About the only thing the porter cable has that I want is the handle positioned switch, else, Triton every day of the week.

My $0.02

[Stuart]

Not even sure if the switch position is an issue. I have no problem holding onto the router, with both hands, and flicking the switch on with my thumb. I certainly don't feel like I have lost any control over the router while turning it on.

"The big porter cable is a solid powerfull two fisted mother and its well mannered with it "

Don't see how you can get more powerful than the Triton's 2400W, without getting a 3 phase router.....which I doubt exists (well not under the name "router" anyway)

There is only one thing that I wish had been included in Triton's design. The ability of being able to do height adjustment without reaching under the table. Looking at the router design, and specifically the microadjustment, I'm not convinced that it couldn't have included provision for the temporary insertion of a handle (equivalent to the height winder for the Triton Workcentre). Not that any other router that I've come across has this feature either (and I'm talking the actual router here- not the table, or router mounting plate.)

[George]

Stuart, I agree. I was actually surprised that some sort of height winder feature wasn't built into the Triton router. I am convinced they must have considered it. Maybe too difficult or too expensive?

George

[Geoff Sims]

Originally posted by Dan
Getting a little side tracked from cadnams original question here but is the plate in question on this page.

http://www.triton.net.au/images/spares/RTA300.pdf

If not, is there a part number to use when ordering?

Dan.
Did you ever get an answer to this question? I'm wanting a quick and easy method of mounting my Triton Router in my home made table and I'm interested in the plate as mentioned, but which one is it? If someone is able to point out what the part number is, or an accurate description of the plate, it would be very helpful.

Stuart.....Can you help us out?

[DPB]

Geoff, the answer to your question can be found on the Triton Woodworkers Club website. http://www.tritonwoodworkers.org.au/

When there, scroll down to Triton Equipment and click on Eqip. Exploded Diagrams. Then scroll down to Router Tables and click on RTA300. The two parts you are looking for at the RTA320 Router Plate, and the TRA419 Router Sub-plate, numbers 11, and 51 respectively on the diagram.

The first plate is mounted to the router table surface and the second to the underside of the router plate. The Triton Router mounts to this plate with a simple twist motion - no tools required.

If you are building your own router table, then you will want to purchase these two parts as assemblies (I think they are available this way) because you will want a number of the parts that are illustrated in the exploded diagram.

Hope this helps - but call Triton's customer service. They are very helpful.:)

[Stuart]

Apologies for missing the question directed my way- obviously didn't pay enough attention!

Attached is a photo of the Triton Router table plate, and the quick release plate.

As Don has mentioned, our website links to an exploded parts diagram that will give you the parts numbers of everything you require for your own table.

[xron]

Having five routers - still not enought - I can't do better than suggest the Hitachi TR12. Faultless - both of them - for perhaps 12 years now.

My Makitas 3600 series are fixed base units - but though equally as fine machines - plunge is the only way to go.

I agree with the thoughts on the Triton - the features are superb - especially for a router table. The Yanks are rapt with it!! It's supposed to be an Australian unit - but I'd need to be convinced.

As to the cheapies - I have a GMC 1/4" unit that I bought with some trepidation - but I love it - no bad manners at all!

Do yourself a favour and borrow or buy Patrick Spielman's " Router Jigs and Techniques" and be prepared to be amazed at what a router can do.

Regards

[Geoff Sims]

Stuart and DPB

Many thanks for your replies. I'll be ordering the plates tomorrow.

Cheers

[Dan]

Yeah Geoff, got my answer (been away for a few days).

And thanks to Stuart and DPB :)