English Oak timber

[tarebel]

Have a dying English Oak about to be felled - North Sydney area. Wiuld like to give the old girl a dignified passing by trying to avoid the chipper. Trunk is about 1m diameter to about 2m high then three branching trunks about 30cm diameter for several metres. Main trunk has borer damage which led to her eventual demise. Trunklets are still solid. Treefeller has told me he can cut it into 1 -1.5m logs.Anyone interested in re-incarnating this once magnificent specimen - that has given myself and the local wildlife many years of shade prodection & beauty - please email. Scheduled for removal over next few weeks

[tarebel]

q

[RufflyRustic]

Bugger, Not Toowoomba area, again :(

[Wild Dingo]

An never Bunbury :no: :C

Seems to me most of the giveaways great deals are all over east somewhere :doh: ... bloody sandgropers never giveaway nuffin :q

Still good offer mate well done :2tsup:

[Clinton1]

I'm not in sydney, but if the forumites don't want it there will be restorers that will be pleased to get hold of it.
Even the borers holes are good for restorers... helps to have the new timber blend in to the old.
Good luck with it.

[HappyHammer]

I've PM'd Tarebel to arrange pickup once it is felled.

HH.

[HappyHammer]

Thought I'd post these pictures of the timber I scored from Tarebel today.:U

Thanks very much Tarebel hopefully I'll do it justice in about 18 months time.

HH.

[ozwinner]

Too late isnt it, all the ends are cracked as it wasnt sealed when cut.

Al :(

[himzol]

Too late isnt it, all the ends are cracked as it wasnt sealed when cut.

Al :(

Depends on how long ago it was cut down, the checking may not have gone too far in.

[HappyHammer]

OK how about some advice then. It was cut down last Thursday.

HH.

[ozwinner]

The ends should have been sealed with paint, wax, anything to stop the timber drying out and cracking.

This should have been done as the tree hit the ground.

Al :-

[HappyHammer]

So I can't save any of it?:o

HH.

[ozwinner]

So I can't save any of it?:o

HH.

You can still save some of it with an application of paint to stop it drying out and cracking, how much you can save is anyones guess.

I noticed the thread was started in the beginning of April, if the tree has been down that long there will be significant cracking.

You maybe able to get some smaller boards out of it, or its good for pens.

Al :(

[HappyHammer]

No it only came down last Thursday and not all of the logs are cracked any particular paint?

HH.

[DJ’s Timber]

Split them down the guts now, follow the checking that has already happened. Once you have split them open you will release alot of the stress out of the log.

[HappyHammer]

Thanks DJ I've painted the ends which might help prevent further cracking. I'm going to take them somewhere to be slabbed ASAP and then recover as much as I can.

I might give the Boutique Timber guys a call (they're just up the road from me) and take them up there and ask for thier opinion and whether I can pay them to cut them for me.

HH.

[HappyHammer]

Ok I finally got this timber slabbed. I had a quote of $300 first up but decided if I was going to lose most of it then it wasn't worth it. I found another guy who quoted me $70. I thought this was worth the risk and I've just unloaded it.

As suggested by Al the cracking has resulted in some badly split slabs but many have come out OK.

Below are the cracked ones.

HH.

[HappyHammer]

Here's the stack of good ones I ended up with for $70.

HH.

[HappyHammer]

Some of the good boards have small 1/2" to 1" cracks at the ends should I cut across the boards to remove these and re-paint the ends?

Any advice on how to salvage bits of the split boards also very welcome.

HH.

[HappyHammer]

FYI, In another thread.

Sorry HH, not much to be done as far as i can see. The oaks are a PITA at the best of times from what i can gather. The jap oak I've got was a cranky mongrel except for the bits that were cut on the quarter. I'd just coat them in something like dimension 4 from Intergrain and hope that slows down the loss of moisture enough to let them dry without falling to bits. Good luck!:2tsup:

HH.

[les88]

How are the blue plastic boxes supported on the wall??:doh:

[Bodgy]

For $70 I'd say you have a great result.

Regarding the ones already splitting, I'd saw the long boards in half lengthways to releive the stresses causing the splitting, then coat the ends as everyone says. Looks to me that you'll only lose 10% if you're clever about it. Don't under estimate the forces trapped in the wood. I've had green boards literally 'twang' as they pass the TS splitter and open up 25-50mm. Particularly if the tree had a lean, or they're branches.

Those of us with Studleys reject timber have become expert in this sort of salvage. You may not get table top type slabs, but judging from the piccies, you should get a fair few 100-150 wide boards.

PS Would you mind PM'ing me the details of your slabber for future reference?

[HappyHammer]

How are the blue plastic boxes supported on the wall??:doh:
They're just cheap ones from Bunnies. They come with a plastic strip that you fix to the wall. I've used pre-drilled holes into brick with a rawpug and screw. The boxes then clip / slide onto the strip so they can be easily removed and replaced.

HH.

[HappyHammer]

For $70 I'd say you have a great result.
That's what I reckon...it was worth the gamble.

Regarding the ones already splitting, I'd saw the long boards in half lengthways to releive the stresses causing the splitting, then coat the ends as everyone says. Looks to me that you'll only lose 10% if you're clever about it. Don't under estimate the forces trapped in the wood. I've had green boards literally 'twang' as they pass the TS splitter and open up 25-50mm. Particularly if the tree had a lean, or they're branches.
I was wondering whether to saw them or just continue the split naturally using a wood splitter. Do you reckon I should cut the last inch off of the better boards where splitting is minor? They were branches off of the main trunk which might cause further splitting.

PS Would you mind PM'ing me the details of your slabber for future reference?
I was put into contact with the guy by the FIL, will PM you his location then if you're interested in using him I'll get his number for you.

HH.

[DJ’s Timber]

I was wondering whether to saw them or just continue the split naturally using a wood splitter. Do you reckon I should cut the last inch off of the better boards where splitting is minor? They were branches off of the main trunk which might cause further splitting.



I use a splitter to crack open slabs that have split more than a quarter of the lengths, certainly makes them easier to move around and stack.

Wouldn't bother cutting last inch off, it will just split again as you're exposing new endgrain to loose moisture quicker. Just keep the ends sealed. Wouldn't hurt to re-coat the ends again, cause the endgrain does open and close as it's drying so another coat everynow and then doesn't hurt.

[HappyHammer]

Thanks DJ I'll do that today.

HH.

[sea dragon]

HH,
I have been following this thread with interest because I had NFI about what to do if offered apparently great timber.
I suspect you did not have much more idea than me, but had an idea where it should have lead!! I have already learned a lot.
Let us all share with where this may ultimately lead.
Regards,
CJ

[HappyHammer]

:U You're quite right CJ I had NFI either but thought I'd take a punt. It's been a great learning experience and I have made some useful contacts. For a total outlay of $70 the experience alone has been well worth it, if I manage to get some timber out of it that will be a bonus. I'll post more as time goes by and the timber dries.....

HH.

[funkychicken]

Any chance I could aquire an (about) 40mm x 70" piece. Oak makes good bows.:2tsup:

Please (puppy dog eyes)

[morris]

Tarebel has the tree been cut yet ,as I am interested in the logs.
Morris

[ozwinner]

Tarebel has the tree been cut yet ,as I am interested in the logs.
Morris

Youd better talk to HappyHammer then.

Al :)

[HappyHammer]

Any chance I could aquire an (about) 40mm x 70" piece. Oak makes good bows.:2tsup:

Please (puppy dog eyes)
Dunno where's Meringandan?

HH.

[HappyHammer]

Tarebel has the tree been cut yet ,as I am interested in the logs.
Morris
Yeah mate it's gone hence the slabs in my truck above...:doh: :q

HH.

[funkychicken]

It near toowoomba QLD, but it would kinda be loodakris to post it here.

So what I was thinking was that since my Dad will be down in Sydney for a couple of days, maybe I could convince him to pick it up.

Hopefully.

[HappyHammer]

Sorry FC I don't live in Sydney I'm on mid north coast of NSW.

HH.

[funkychicken]

Hmmm, that could still work. If Dad can't get near there on the way back, then I have relatives in Gloucester that might be willing.

*fingers crossed*

Funky C

[HappyHammer]

This timber has been cut since May (5 and a half months) and slabbed since July (3 and a half months) is it OK to start cutting it into boards on the table saw so that I can get it off of the garage floor and into the timber rack?

HH.

[HappyHammer]

As no-one responded I decided to test a piece so here is my first English Oak plank. The final picture show some small cracks on one side only any advice on what to fill them with would be greatly appreciated. This plank has been cut and finished for about a week now. Comments welcome.

[DJ’s Timber]

You really need to leave it racked longer, a guide to drying is 1" per year, so if the board is 2" thick, it need to be left for 2 years

[HappyHammer]

The boards vary in thickness between 1/2"to 1". This is about 1/2" thick. Is it showning signs that it is too soon to cut and finish? If so can you point them out to me please.

HH.

[HappyHammer]

The boards vary in thickness between 1/2"to 1". This is about 1/2" thick. Is it showning signs that it is too soon to cut and finish? If so can you point them out to me please.

HH.

Actually that's bit of a fib. I went and measured them and this one is almost 1" thick and they go up to 2" thick. Guess I have to be patient.:doh:

HH.

[DJ’s Timber]

Just to be clear here HH, you say the timber was cut May, is this when the tree was felled? And you then had the log slabbed in July.

If this is correct, then you need to apply your drying times from July when it was slabbed and stickered.

The 1/2" boards may be okay, hard to say really. Lots of variable come into play here, for example, ventilation, amount of rain you've had, density of timber.

The only way you can be really sure is either get a moisture meter or weight a couple of boards and then re-weight once a week to see if it's still dropping in weight as it loses moisture

[HappyHammer]

Yes slabbed in July :C

Does stickered refer to stacking it with spacers?

HH.

[DJ’s Timber]

Does stickered refer to stacking it with spacers?



Yes

[Calm]

djstimber (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/member.php?u=11243)
Super Moderator
Timber Hoarder

Off the subject but congratrulations on the promotion DJ. Well deserved:2tsup::2tsup:

[DJ’s Timber]

djstimber (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/member.php?u=11243)
Super Moderator
Timber Hoarder

Off the subject but congratrulations on the promotion DJ. Well deserved:2tsup::2tsup:

Thank you David :U