Coin inlay tips?

[ticklingmedusa]

I got "volunteered" to turn an 8 inch platter for a silent auction fundraiser at the aquarium where I work.
Its not exactly the kind of piece I really like to do. I dont have much experience with inlaying. I was given a comemorative medallion that I thought I might inlay.
I'm guessing I need to turn a tight rebate and plant the slug with CA
glue. Any pointers?
Thanks,
tm

[soundman]

epoxy would proably be a better option..

cheers

[joe greiner]

I agree. Use clear type; should be identified on the front or back of the package under "Cured Color." Rebate could be turned, or drilled with a Forstner bit if close enough to required size (not likely, though).

Joe

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Don't make the rebate a snug fit... leave at least 1mm clearance per each inch of dia around the medallion for differential expansion. For the same reason, I don't recommend any rigid glue. Just to clarify: by differential expansion I mean that the wood and the inlay will expand at different rates, leading to an eventual glue failure. I've found a neutral cure silicone works better, as it retains a degree of flexibility. :thyel:

The above is especially true if you're inlaying china or porcelain disks (eg. into cheese platters, etc.) 'cos more often than not the inlay will crack before the glue fails. Just a quiet "tick" in the night and the next time SWMBO picks it up you know who'll be abused for dropping it don't you? :rolleyes:

[TTIT]

Don't make the rebate a snug fit... leave at least 1mm clearance per each inch of dia around the medallion for differential expansion. For the same reason, I don't recommend any rigid glue. Just to clarify: by differential expansion I mean that the wood and the inlay will expand at different rates, leading to an eventual glue failure. I've found a neutral cure silicone works better, as it retains a degree of flexibility. :thyel:

The above is especially true if you're inlaying china or porcelain disks (eg. into cheese platters, etc.) 'cos more often than not the inlay will crack before the glue fails. Just a quiet "tick" in the night and the next time SWMBO picks it up you know who'll be abused for dropping it don't you? :rolleyes:Thought provoking advice Skew :doh: Think I'd better revisit the jewellery box I made the daughter - "Hey sweetie, how about I top up the oil finish on that box before you move to Townsville?!?!" :B

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

For something as small as, say, an Oz 20cent coin, it's nothing critical as there's not that much movement, although it's still a problem to a lesser degree.

But the bigger the inlay, the more of a problem it becomes. Some of the first items I turned out in great quantity when I first started turning were simple trivets and platters with 4" round painted porcelain inlays. Easy projects for the beginner and each paid for the next one... I was in newby turner's heaven! :D Until they started coming back for repairs, 'cos I was snug-fitting 'em and gluing with epoxy. :-

I think 'twas Jim Carroll who first put me onto using Silicone instead... or it may've been Len Smith? I forget... but it's advice I've faithfully followed ever since.

[ticklingmedusa]

Thanks mates, I didnt consider the movement problem
I'll probably use a product called Elmers f26 for gluing metal to wood when it doesn't show. It's an ugly tan color but it stays flexible.
tm

[ptc]

Another great tip.

[Bruce101]

Thanks mates, I didnt consider the movement problem
I'll probably use a product called Elmers f26 for gluing metal to wood when it doesn't show. It's an ugly tan color but it stays flexible.
tm

Suggest Selleys "All Clear" or similar. Always Works for me and dries clear!

[Kea5]

Suggest Selleys "All Clear" or similar. Always Works for me and dries clear!


Hmmmm....I've been tempted a few times to try that stuff. I always thought it wouldn't set hard enough.

[soundman]

From my experiences with all clear, I'd be steering clear of it for this use.
If you have to sand it or knife it back it stays soft and gummy, like most of the sealer products it is prone to peeling off surfaces, so it wont hold the coin all that well.
Clear epoxy would be the best choice I think.
It will bond well to clean metal and very well to wood and does have a certain ... flexibility.

Id make sure the coin is well clean & rub the back with some abrasive to get a better key.

one other option which is far more ambitious is to recess the coin much deeper, bed it in cleer acrilic resin then cover it completely, after that machine the surface on the lather a polish it like you would a pen.... just a thaught

cheers