Fitting handles to Chisels - Techniques?

[Hardenfast]

Morning Gents & Gentresses.

Once again I turn to the learned assemblage herein for advice and suggestions - this time in relation to fitting new handles to old chisels etc. I have seen the superb results achieved by many, including the extraordinary collections of Derek, but am interested to see the exact techniques employed by Forum Members - if you would be so good as to indulge me. I have had a quick search of the topic but am not having much lucking finding the proper threads.

The reason for my quest is that I have put together quite a nice collection of carving chisels and paring chisels which I would like to unify with similar but distinctive handles. The collection currently looks a little haphazard but they are all really nice pieces, with carving chisels mainly by SJ Addis and other gouges and parers by Buck Brothers, Titan and Marples etc. The whole lot would benefit greatly from a general handle refitment program, both from a structural and visually uniform perspective.

Anyway, believe it or not, I have never actually fitted a new handle to a tang type chisel, so would be most greatful for advice, suggestions, links etc on the topic. Also, it will be good to expand my somewhat limited lathe skills to include some handles in my repetoire. The topics I would like to consider for manufacture and attachment of handles include:

Most appropriate (Australian) timbers
Shape and size for particular chisel types and intended usage
Lathe techniques, including drilling the insert hole & multiple copies
Insertion & embedment of the tang (glue, epoxy, wedge etc) & the feasibility of using (leather?) impact absorbers
Fitment and sourcing of the ferrules
Any other factors relevant to the processI hope I'm not being too expectant of the goodwill of contributors with this post, and extend my thanks in anticipation of any replies. This topic would seem to blur the lines between the different forums a little, but I have included it here because it seems to be of interest to the turners more so than general woodworkers.

Regards. Wayne :)

[Ironwood]

have a look here, not sure if they are the type of handle you are after, but you might get a few ideas



http://www.norsewoodsmith.com/

[OGYT]

Wayne, can't help you with Oz Timbers, but I've made a few handles.
Start to finish:
I usually start with the handle blank (45-50mm square... appropriate length) in a chuck. Turn it round, and install the spindle steady or steady rest out near the end. I use pieces of copper or brass pipe for ferrules, and turn the end of the handle down to the appropriate size, and use the tailstock with scrap hardwood, to push the ferrule onto the end over a good layer of CA.
By now, I've already determined the size tang hole I need, and use a drill chuck in the tailstock. I bore at about 400-500rpm, with slow advance on the bit, and make the hole about 6-8 mm deeper than the length of the tang.
(If I have a tapered tang, I make the hole just a mite smaller than the widest part of the tang, and use a mallet on the end of the handle to drive it home [after I'm finished with the handle, of course]. Even with a good dose of epoxy or CA. [CA spatters a bit])
Then I bring the tailstock up with a not-too-sharp end just the size necessary to steady it for finish shaping, and remove the steady rest, and finish turning the handle.
I don't sand to finer than about 150 grit, because I don't want a slick handle.
I use 100% Lemon Oil because it never hardens, takes 3 million years to dry, and always keeps the cells of the wood from shrinking, so they don't crack. And it also helps to keep them from being slick. I spin it on with bare hands to warm it a mite, and then keep it wet for an hour or two (after I take it off the lathe).
Usually add a bit of lemon oil to already finished handles at the same time, if I haven't done it in a month or so.
I use 2-ton, one-hour, epoxy to fix the blade in the handle on most tools... but on some of my gouges and parting tools, I've used CA. So far none have escaped.
I've made handles for those replaceable tip screwdrivers this way, sort of a production system (6 or 8 at a time), and it gets to going smoother the more you do.
I also use the same steps to make handles for my turning tools.
Hope this gives you an idea.

[rsser]

Good advice.

There remains a bit of an art to sizing and fitting the tang ... which you'll acquire if you have a heap to do.

Just a reminder though that if you have an old chisel with any kind of collectible value, keeping the original handle may do more for its worth than a replacement.

That said, English box or birch root are traditional timbers and obviously not easy to source. Euro Beech is an adequate alternative. English Ash doesn't look as good but is durable and often found when suburban trees are felled to make way for extensions.

Oz options I'd consider would be horizontal (scrub), whatever Titan used on theirs - looks to be std 'Tassie Oak' - or anything else you liked with higher density for the hitting type or lower for paring chisels.

I'd be wary of the desert acacias as less forgiving when driving a tapered rectangular tang in where the sizing hadn't been careful. That said, I've fitted a large scraper tang to a gidgee handle and it worked well.

As for patterns, I've seen some on the web and old catalogue pages are sometimes reproduced in books on old hand tools. I'll do a rummage later today if you want. My favourite is London pattern and I wish I could find/afford the box to turn some.

Hope this helps.

[arose62]

Bob Smalser has done some articles on rehandling chisels, complete with lots of pictures.

And there's this thread
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=8242

Ferrule options have been discussed several times, ranging from $2 each from CT or Timbecon, to copper pipe, and various plumbing fittings.
Don't use bearing shells! DAMHIKT.

Cheers,
Andrew

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Another old-school method for fitting rect. tangs to a handle is to heat the tang to a dull cherry red and let it "burn in" to a pilot hole in the handle. Personally I'd only use this method on non-woodturning chisels and probably not even then unless I had extremely limited options!

(Although the risk of changing temper may not be as critical with modern HSS... hmmm... [ponders])

As for timbers, most of my turning tool handles are made from good old red gum. Don't even think about River Redgum, too squirrelly a grain even when you can find a piece without resin inclusions :rolleyes:, but house stumps and fence-posts are a good, cheap source. It makes for a very durable, 100% Aussie handle and some of it has truly gorgeous figure too, one post can give you a lot of beautiful handles.

Oh... and one piece of advice I'm sure almost erveryone will give: oil the handles, DON'T lacquer 'em! Unless you really like blisters? :wink:

[rsser]

... and a sloppy new-school method is to glue with epoxy. (I did one of those :p )

[TTIT]

... and a sloppy new-school method is to glue with epoxy. (I did one of those :p )Not 'sloppy' :~ - 'hi-tech' - 'integrated vibration dampening' :; ................easier! :B

[tanii51]

thanks hardenfast for starting this thread i too am just starting out restoring some old chisels to a usefull state. my first go with a tang type handle looks ok but at the back its developed a crack so i guess the hole for the tang was too small. in this case i used redgum from an old retaining wall sleeper and the brass rings from threaded brass tube, i put the handle back into the lathe and used a file to remove the threads its not to hard to do) looks like i better try epoxy next time for the chisel on the right which is next inline.
cost 3 dollars for the chisels 3 dollars for the brass fittings and timber free. I used a coat of u beaut EEE ULTRASHINE then TRADITIONAL WAX
oh and first mistake i made was not making sure the ends of the blanks are square to the sides its makes it much easier to drill the holes straight if your using a drill press
i just copied the profile of anuther titan handle by eyeballing and measuring the diameters of the smaller sections

[soundman]

Ok soundmans brief rundown.

choice of timber.
If you are working on australian hardwoods and may end up wailing on the chisel with a heavy seiies of blows, most of the traditional european and american timbers may be a bit soft and wossy.
My preference is air dried spotted gum, but any of the resilient hardwoods will do, tallow, jarrah, redgum........ tas oak I supose.
make sure it is dry.... good and dry or your furrels may fall off when it does dry.

Yes a 40 to 50mm square blank is the place to start, trim the blank up about 2" longer than the finished handle.

I cut an X across the diagonals and punch the centre points so the centres will bite & rough the blank to a cylinder.

the easiest source of furrells is carbatec but they only have one size. Brass realy is the go it is stronger than copper & just looks right.... all sorts of other stuff will work.
Having a taper on the inside of one end of the furrell is s good thing.

I then caliper the furrel and use a parting tool to size a very short sholder to a taper around the size of the inside of the furrell

make this taper about twice the width of the parting tool, with the small end smaller than the furrell ID and the big end very slightly larger.

Take the blank out of the lathe and try the furrel on.... of course it wont fit... you want to push it on hard.... this will mark the correct diameter.

I do this on the tail stock end... just my preference.

re mount the blank and size up a tennon just wider than the furrell, and slightly too big.. ever so slightly....... we will sneak up on the correct size.

then I take off small amounts of material of the very end till the furrel is a realy neat fit right at the end.... the you can make the whole tennon the same size ( as best you can).... tighter is better.

If you can get the whole tennon perfect.... good luck..... never happens for me...make sure at lest some of it is tight.

I prefer to undercut where the furrel meets the shoulder, it gives the furrel a neater fit..only a bit mind.

what I am looking for is a tennon that the furrel has to be hammered on to, getting a feel for how tight is the art... too tight can be a real problem, too lose is worse.

I will then drift the furrel in place with a hollow drift, my preference is a piece of the same pipe as the furrell... another furrell is just fine,
this is the tool end.
.
for a carving or paring tool you dont need a furrell for the other end.
for any hard striking chisels you most certainly will need another at the other end.

fit this in a similar manner.

One of the things that can make a " made" handle look wrong is the wrong size furrell...I went to a brass merchant and baught a variety of pieces of scrap tube and had a mate part them off on his lathe, in two different lengths.

the original handle will give you the best idea.

the tool end furrell is usulay just biger than the flange on the tang the striking frrell is usulay much bigger.

The titan range for instance use a different furrell combination on just about every size chisel.

the original titan chisel handles were " select hardwood" (probaly tas oak) for the firmers and murtle for the bevels.

where was I.
once the furrells are fitted both ends I shape the handle..this allows a realy neat transition to the furrells.


once the handle has been shaped, sanded and waxed. I bore the hole.

as part of the sanding process I will file the edges of the furrell and the circumference, then sand the furrel thru the gritts untill it gleams.

Oh parting off... I will part off the striking end to a stub and the too end to only a bit smaller than the furrell...I just want a decent shoulder below the furrel.

A word about spotted gum and other good handle woods.... for handle woods we are looking for the most nasty interlocked grain you can find..... this means it will tear out , chatter and carry on laike a pork chop....(HA Ha.. I laugh at your rasor shsrp skew... cop this chatter chatter)... so be prepared to use the 60 gritt gouge if you have to.... dont worry I wont tell.

to drill the hole I first pilot with a smaller drill.....1/8" to 3/16 depending on the chisel.

I will pare off the stub at the striking before drilling I I am not using a pointed center as a guide while drilling, I will pare off the tool end after I have a pilot hole, I will use the center mark from the tail centre to strat my pilot hole.
I bore the hole with a jacobs chuck in the head stock holding the handle in my hand. guided by the tail stock.

There are two types of tang chisel... ones with paralell tangs an ones with pointy tangs.
Most of the titans and a lot of the sweedish chisels have paralell tangs, so all you ahve to do is bore a single diameter hole of the right size and belt it in.
the hole should be smaller than across the points and larger than across the flats.....cant help more than that.

the pointy ones ar a pain....... rough buggers will just drill a single sized hole and bang it in.
the better way is to use at least 2 different sized drill some times 3 or 4 depending on how keen you are.
I still don't have this one down as well as I would like, It is very easy to get it wrong and split the handle of bore it oversize and end up with a "useless pretty stick".



either way if the handle isnt going on nicely witha few FIRM hammer blows, stop and redrill.. or you will either split the handle or you wont get it all the way home and have a real job gettint it out.

I put a handle on a titan once & I thaugt it was going home nicely.... but it never got all the way.... in spite of real solid pounding..... and there was no way it was comming out......it wouldn't go in, it wouldn't come out, & the handle showed no sign of splitting so I left it.

Some of you may think that drilling with the handle in hand is a bit dodgy... but if done properly and carefully... it nowhere near as bad as it seems.

the richard raffin video has a quick tool handle demo that is very helpfull.

cheers

[soundman]

:o dod I say brief:doh:

cheers

[rsser]

Couple of sizing tips for tangs ...

If rectangular, measure the diagonal and reduce by 1mm for the hole.

If tapered, measure at bottom, middle and top and drill down in steps.

When fitting, upend the chisel and drop (moving on to smack) the wood end on a hard surface ... the momentum of the metal should drive it home. If it doesn't, remove it and open up the hole a bit.

For woodturning gouges, leastways smaller ones, you don't really need a ferrule.

[arose62]

Please Soundman, it's "ferrule", not "furrell"

[tanii51]

ahh now this is a good thread http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=11145 (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=11145) another from Bob Smalser but a bit more to what we are trying to learn and thanks for all the other inputs its all starting to make sense
i wonder what others think about using leather as the striking end bit

[rsser]

Please Soundman, it's "ferrule", not "furrell"

Furrell is when you drop it in the shavings ;-}

[soundman]

It could be ferrel..... I'll call it a band from now on for the benifit of the spelling natzis.

I know there are a lot of people who adhere to the smack in the head method of fitting handles to chisels.
It might be fine when the chisel has a significant weight, but it dosn't work with lighter chisels.
I also note there are some who adhere to the SIH method hwo frequently have to apply further smacks as the tang wriggles free......this can be seen in a prominent demonstrators video.
The last thing you want in a mortice chisel is a handle that will pull off.
Then again I'll always prefer a tight fit......evryone to their preference

I would always fit a band to any turning chisel.... if it is possible to break the tang off a gouge it is certainly much easier to split a handle.
besides.... a handle doesn't look finished without a band.

cheers

[TEEJAY]

It could be ferrel..... I'll call it a band from now on for the benifit of the spelling natzis.


cheers


Nope you've got it all wrong it's FERAL

:D

[arose62]

"call it a band..."

Furrell should be BANNED :D

[rsser]

Fair call Soundman ... I had turning tools in mind.

I've done the 'inertia drive' method with all my tools and not had a problem. Yes, I agree a ferrule looks better but I'm fussy and if I can't access a brass one I'll do without on a gouge. With reasonable fitting - depth and tightness - the forces are usually pushing back, not pulling out. But I can imagine if eg. you had horizontal presentation of a bowl gouge while hollowing, a good overhang and a dig, you might end up having wished for insurance. So far so good, knock on wood.

[soundman]

I never was a real good speller...... so it is now a band.

cheers

[Hardenfast]

Many thanks Forumites. As usual I am humbled by the collective knowledge and willingness to share.

Ironwood: Excellent link! Many other very informative articles as well as for fitting handles - both tang & socket type. Well worth a look, everyone. I have quickly perused the topic and will re-visit it over the weekend when I have more time (Ha!).

OGYT: Many thanks. I have read your comments very carefully. One thing I don't have yet is a "steady" - guess I'll have to acquire one or make one (does it ever end?). Noted your comment re sanding. Perhaps like yourself, I have had limited use for a slick handle for some time now. Interesting points on your use of Lemon Oil. Don't think I've ever heard of the product before, but I'm sure it's been mentioned here many times. I'll check it out.

rsser: Ern? Already had a think about the new handle vs collector value as original handle etc - valid consideration. I'm quite happy to utilise these chisels as my personal user collection so will ignore any resultant depreciation to value due to the restoration process. Also had a think about trying to source some nice authentic English timbers, as these are mostly all English chisels. Trouble is, as you say, it's hard to find - and to be quite honest I probably wouldn't know one from the other anyway. Comments on techniques for drilling & fitting the tang from your self & OGYT noted - much appreciated.

Andrew - Central Coast Boy! Maaate! I'll check out the info & threads on Mr Smalser. Our American friends are very useful, aren't they? Consensus of opinions for the ferrules (sorry Soundman - bands) seems to be for brass, and I agree it is a more conventional appearance. I was toying with the idea of stainless steel, simply because I have some offcuts of SS tube in various sizes. By the way, remind me what DAMHIKT means, BIADF.

Skewby - The "hot iron" method of fitting sounds a little like fitting a horse shoe - burn it into a nice snug fit. Red Gum seems to getting a good rap as a suitable timber, and as you say, fairly readily available.

TTIT - I'm liking the sound of the "integrated vibration dampening" system via epoxy. I'll use the drilling/fitting method as detailed by RSSER & OGYT, complimented by the application of epoxy.

Tanii - Your handle actually looks pretty good - shame about the cracking. Learn by experience I guess. I won't need the ferrule at both ends for mine as they will be only paring and light carving chisels - hand use only! Thanks for the further link to the Smalser article - why can't I ever seem to find these things in a search?

Soundman - Super detail! Most helpful! Sizing of "bands" noted. I like your logic of the interlocking grained timbers being the best material - even if somewhat harder to finish nicely. I can see that it's going to be somewhat of a trial & error process for sizing of the ferrule tenon. That's OK. I noticed while watching Richard Raffan at the recent Sydney Wood Show that he was employing plenty of trial & error procedures - so its not just us. Interesting sequencing & methodology of the various elements; ie. final shaping & sanding of the handle after the ferrules are fitted - drilling the tang hole after the handle is finished, sanded & waxed. I haven't removed any of the existing handles yet so am not sure what type of tang I'm dealing with. I've only ever seen the tapered type. Also interesting to note your method of drilling the tang hole while the handle is hand-held. Look out the WorkCover Nazi's don't get you - some of them didn't seem to like my "planer on the lathe" innovation. The jury seems to be out on the "smack" versus "inertia drive" method of inserting the tang. Maybe I'll "smack" the big ones and smoothly "drive" the smaller ones.

Again, many thanks all. I now go forward heartily armed with much information and inspiration - not to mention some trepidation.

Wayne

[rsser]

Thanks for the feedback Wayne.

FWIW, IMO copper ferrules may look good but I can't see that they'd be much insurance in the example I mentioned above. Brass or nothing is my take.

www.woodworks.com.au (http://www.woodworks.com.au) have a good range of diameters and lengths and if you ring he'll do them in whatever numbers and lengths you want. V. helpful guy. (No, not cheap, but if you price your time making your own, finding and picking up the brass pipe etc ... )

And Wayne, when I started making my own turning handles, couple of times I ended up with shapes I didn't like. No drama .. just removed the shafts by drilling several ways along side it down into the handle before it could be pulled out ... (just interference fit so can't have been too bad!).

[Alastair]

Hi Ern

IMO Apart from the appearance, ( which I prefer) there would be no practical difference in strength between brass and copper, for the application here. In addition, copper is more ductile, and less prone to fracture, as I recall.

In any case, I would suspect that for a dig to apply enough force to split a copper ferrule, there would be no way you would be still holding the tool.

I have always used ~20mm copper joint fittings, (the kind used for soldering ) Cut in half for 2 ferrules.

regards

[arose62]

Hey, I'm a WorkCover nazi, sitting in the Gosford office during work hours!

DAMHIKT = Don't Ask Me How I Know This

Wander through Bunnies - there are quite a few brass plumbing bits-n-bobs that work as ferrules.

I've turned a 2-step tenon when fitting ferrules - the smaller step is where the ferrule spins and waits for its next trial fitting on the real tenon. Saves mounting and dismounting the handle over and over.

And I vote for neither "smack" nor "whack", but the mighty Triton SuperJaws for pressing the blade home into the handle.

Cheers,
Andrew

[rsser]

In any case, I would suspect that for a dig to apply enough force to split a copper ferrule, there would be no way you would be still holding the tool.

Zaccly, as my kids say. Nor with brass.

So all a bit academic?

Thanks for sharing your experience though.

Yep, I like the finish of a ferrule, and Wayne started the thread talking about bench chisels which are a different ball game of course.

[Alastair]

Need to post some pics!!!

Ern, I come down to Mexico from time to time on business. May give you a call sometime.

Something to beat sitting in a hotel room!!

regards

[rsser]

Alastair, yep, pls do. Hotels? Yuk.

Would enjoy a yarn in the shed, and despite being Mexico we have heating in it ;-}

... k, can do pics .. will see about posting later on. Youngest's 'formal' tonight so drama all round.

[Hardenfast]

Evening Andrew.

Do you really work for WorkCover? The WorkCover nazi's I was referring to are the forumites who were giving me grief over my "Using an Electric Planer on the Lathe" thread. The concept obviously sent a shiver up the spine of some - DAMHIKT. BTW, you didn't ask me what BIADF means, so I presume you figured it out. Thanks for the tips.

Popular opinion seems to be in favour of brass ferrules, Ern. I seem to remember that I stored a couple of chrome plated brass rods somewhere - must dig them out & check out the size & thickness. However, given their ready availability elsewhere maybe not worth mucking around with, as you've pointed out.

I struggle with the code here sometimes (BIADF) - I presume Mexico is Melbourne?

[Alastair]

Thanks Ern, will PM when I'm due down.

Pics mentioned were for me to post, will do this w/e.

My eldest had her Y10 formal last year, so feel for you.

[derekcohen]

The topics I would like to consider for manufacture and attachment of handles include:
Most appropriate (Australian) timbers
Shape and size for particular chisel types and intended usage
Lathe techniques, including drilling the insert hole & multiple copies
Insertion & embedment of the tang (glue, epoxy, wedge etc) & the feasibility of using (leather?) impact absorbers
Fitment and sourcing of the ferrules
Any other factors relevant to the process

Hi Wayne

I've turned quite a number of chisel handles but still consider myself a novice. You are welcome to my insights, such as they are.


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Chisels/Morticechiselrestoration2.jpg

In my opinion, turning a handle is easy, but turning several identical handles by eye is a better trick.

... re-handled Berg chisels:


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Chisels/IMG_2135.jpg

The handles above were made from Jarrah. I usually have quite a bit of scrap lying around, and I like its warmth, so I do a fair amount in this timber. I tend to use a gum - like Grey Gum - for thos that will take an impact. Of course, for turning chisels you can use whatever you like.

Ferrules:

The ferrules in the above chisels are brass. They can be found in the plumbing section of Bunnings - 5 in a packet for about a dollar. I like them as they are tapered and have a bit of style.

I turn everything but the ferrule section by eye. I keep one handle aside as a master and use this as a guide. The ferrule section is sized with the aid of two calipers (one for each end).

Drilling the handle:

I do not drill the ends of the blank prior to turning. If you attempt this, there is a good chance of drilling off-centre. I drill for the tang at the very end, that is, once the handle is completed. I've seen Richard Raffen do this by inserting a drill bit into the tailstock, but I have not tried this yet. I simply clamp the handle into a vise and drill it out.

Hope this helps a little.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[OGYT]

Hardenfast - Good post, this.
Lemon oil is a type of oil that comes bottled up for use as a furniture preservative. Her Highness uses it on her dust cloth that she wipes the furniture with. It really does have oil from lemon peels in it, and I buy the kind that doesn't have any waxes or varnishes added, because I don't want any buildup of the finish, and I don't want it to just dry out and disappear. I get it at our local wallyworld (Wal-Mart) for about 3 USD per pint. I can get some that's better, but it costs about 20 USD per pint when you add the shipping. Might Bunnings have it?

[rsser]

I've not seen it there Al. Sounds like good goop.

Alastair, formal over .. phew! The kid organised one of the after-parties here, inc. sleeps, and when they'd all gone at noon today she set about restoring everything and sweeping and washing the floors. Bit OT but it gives me faith in the next generation ;-}

[hughie]

Might Bunnings have it



My local bunnies has it, although a bit dearer than Als price. They sell it for around $19+AUD for 500mls. [or about a pint]

[OGYT]

My local bunnies has it, although a bit dearer than Als price. They sell it for around $19+AUD for 500mls. [or about a pint]
I don't remember the brand name, Hughie, but it sounds like it might be the same stuff I can order online. I would advance the thought that it may be much better as a wood preservative than the cheap stuff I buy. :2tsup:
Kudos to Lemon Oil: I have a large red-oak buffet and hutch (don't know what they're called in Oz). :? My wife and I ran away from home (in a travel trailer) for 6 years (yep, 6... '84-'90... '84 was when our youngest son graduated). Anyway, the cabinet sat in our empty house... hot in summer, cold in winter... not even a wipe with a dust cloth, lonesome for some attention. When we came back home, on the buffet, the carvings on the doors, and one end panel, had cracked open about 6-7 mm wide, all the way through the carvings top to bottom, and about 1/4 th the way down the end panel. There were other cracks all over it, but these were the worst.
I went for some wood filler, which I planned on carving to match the rest, and when the sales lady (another 'yep'... a lady) told me, "Oh, don't putty it, Lemon Oil it." :doh: Ended up, she sold me a gallon of Parker's Lemon Oil (about $15 then) and told me to set it up on blocks, so I could cover the floor with plastic, and then set a bowl full of the Lemon Oil on the buffet, dip a rag in it, and keep the cabinet wet for at least a week. Every time we went by it (both of us, several times every day), we wet it down again... it soaked up about 3/4 of that gallon in a week. Finally quit wettin' it down, and in a few more days those cracks closed up to where you couldn't get a cigarette paper in 'em. That's a fact, and you can take it to the bank. :U The lemon oil is absorbed into the cells of the wood, and they expand to normal size, or don't collapse... it's good stuff.

[rsser]

Thanks Al, sounds like it might be worth a try on an Asian chest I have. The butt joints opened up when it was moved from near the sea to the drier plains in the city in which I live.

[rsser]

... apart from that, thinking about Oz alternatives to the trad Birch, Beech and Box.

Anyone tried Murray Pine with a bench chisel? I did a turning handle out of it and it's nice stuff. Fine grain, some heft ... not exactly the right colour but that could be worked on.

[Hardenfast]

Again, many thanks Gents. Fascinating and useful information from all. Now all I've got to do is Have A Go!

Derek: Your collections never fail to impress and inspire, while at the same time making one feel somewhat inadequate. I will hunt out those ferrules from my local Bunnings branch. As you say, the tapered shape definitely seems to add an element of class - particularly with the Jarah.

I always figured that turning one handle wouldn't be too hard, but turning 5 or 6 exactly the same might be a little harder. Interesting that you do it by eye - however methinks your eye may be a little better than most? Interesting also that you and Soundman don't drill the tang hole on the lathe - I think I'll try this method for my first one and see how I go. Much appreciated.

Al, you've got me quite intrigued with this lemon oil. Since you've raised the topic, I seem to recall that my father-in-law (a wood-carver) once talked about a lemon oil & floor wax mixture that he used as a coating for his carvings. I think he said it helped to prevent them from warping as the panels dried out - maybe (as you say) it somehow stabilises the moisture content by sealing off or filling the timber cells. I must ask him about it again - it's certainly worth some more research.

Hughie confirms that you are correct - the ubiquitous Bunnings carry it as a stocked item.

Regards. Wayne

[soundman]

I gota say that drilling the handle in the lathe is the best option in my opinion.

I use a hollow tail centre with the centre pin removed to guide the handle.
the finished end of the handle sits nicely in the cup in the centre.
you could use a standard centre as long as you still have a center mark to put it in.

I hold the handle in one hand and advance the tail stock with the other.
for the pilot hole I lock the tail stock and use the feed screw.
once things get a bit easier or I need a longer stroke I unlock the tial stock and push it down the bed.
If the drill bites just let the handle spinnin your hand till you can stop the lathe..... I recomend slower speeds.

cheers

[hughie]

Thanks Al, sounds like it might be worth a try on an Asian chest I have. The butt joints opened up when it was moved from near the sea to the drier plains in the city in which I live.
[/QUOTE]
http://www.solutions.com/jump.jsp?itemType=PRODUCT&itemID=5727 ?

it should work just fine, my sister used it on a 150 year table came up trumps. But as Al says, buy plenty the stuff soaks in like theres a hole it some wheres.....:U

or alternately try this, it soaks in the same as Lemon oil

http://www.howardproducts.com.au/products/orange_oil.htm

[rsser]

Thanks Hughie, will give it a go.

[Alastair]

Just a couple of pics and comments. Mostly I have concentrated on my turning tools, although have also made the odd file handle.

First pic is the full display. Shape is based on the production Record handle, which happened to be the first "bought" tool I had, (and the only for many years). Timber (and to a degree size) varies with what I had to hand at the time, and includes Red Oak, Euro Beech, and Q. Maple. Shorter ferrules are 20mm copper solder joins, cut into 2. The longer are cut from 20mm copper pipe.

Technique was to rough to nearly round, then grip end in chuck, centre by bringing tailstock up into old indent, then remove TS and drill appropriate diameter, (or stepped for tapered tang) with drill bit held in visegrips, (in days before I had a TS with morse taper).

Once drilled, return TS to support in hole, turn seat for ferrule to slightly oversize, remove and force on ferrule. Replace on lathe, tidy up ferrule with file, lathe running, and then turn to profile. Turn end of handle down to 5mm dia, sand to 240, and finish. Usually apply danish oil, and friction dry with lathe running, then burnish with carnauba wax. Finish by parting off with skew. Tool then driven in by inertia, (start by driving in with scrap timber, then bash handle down onto MDF until tool seats to required depth.) None are glued in, none have ever moved, and I have been able to recover handles by reversing the process. I have had to put glue on some ferrules where large changes of humidity have loosened them.

On my TAFE turning course, I took the opportunity to make a stock of (undrilled) spares. These I grip lightly in chuck, support with my rollerblade wheel steady, and drill using TS, as required.

Second pic shows rare earth magnets, (scavenged from sons 3d building kit) which hold tools in rack. Cupboard also made during wood machining module of TAFE course.

Regards

[rsser]

Look good Alastair. Ditto the cabinet.

Those RE magnets are darn handy aren't they. Just a small one can hold my knock-out bar on the headstock.

My handles are now heading in the emerging commercial shape ... with a bulge (sorry about the 'tech' term, it's the best I can do) at the ferrule end ;-} ... works for my ageing paws.
.