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View Full Version : What the well dressed grinder is wearing this year.......



Stu in Tokyo
28th July 2007, 02:26 AM
......Well, I finally built one of these wheel dresser things, a knock off of various ones you see for sale on the net and elsewhere. :D

The single point diamond I got from Oneway, I think it was about $20 :?

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Anyway, works very well, I'm pleased as can be, and boy, does it make a difference :oo:

I thought my grinder was running smooth, but now, with the wheels round, as well as balanced, man is it smooth, you can lay a tool on there and there is not even a hit of a bounce or such, just a nice smooth constant sound! :2tsup:

Took me about 30 minutes to whip this up.

Cheers!

OGYT
28th July 2007, 04:40 AM
Looks like it oughta work. Looks good, Stu. I need to re-balance one of my wheels... nah... to much turnin' to do. :)
Someday, maybe.....

Pops
28th July 2007, 02:21 PM
Nice one Stu.

Did the diamond come already set in a holder, (the rod held in with the grub screw) or did you have to do that as well?

Should make a difference when grinding those newly forged chisels.

Cheers
Pops

Stu in Tokyo
28th July 2007, 05:28 PM
Yeah Pops, came like that, it is the replacement unit for the Oneway dressing jig, cost me $20Cdn.

Cheers!

Harry72
28th July 2007, 11:10 PM
Looks good Stu!
I was perplexed today how I was going too dress a new white wheel, I had to remove one of the guards as it wouldnt allow fitment of a Tru-grind jig. So I had no tool rest to use... I clamped the T-bar dresser in the jig instead so simple:D

TTIT
29th July 2007, 01:13 AM
Flash bit of kit Stu! :2tsup: I've been using those sticks of whatever it is to true my wheels but they really don't do a very good job - reckon I'll have to find a diamond somewhere too.

hughie
29th July 2007, 01:49 AM
Stu is right when you need to dress a white type grinding wheel. Always use a diamond it does the best job.
It is a standard feature of any machine shop for dressing the surface grinder wheels. As most of the wheels are ali-oxide type unless your grinding Tungsten.
By using a jig you control your resurfacing of the wheel minimise the loss of grit. Not much of an issue with wood turners but in a machine shop with large and more costly wheels its wise to avoid any unnecessary expense such poor wheel dressing.Not to mention also the efficiency of a sharp wheel.

Pops
29th July 2007, 05:28 AM
Damn it Stu. This is another one of those threads I have to put in my, 'good idea, got to make one of those oneday' folder.

Have got a nice new white wheel, and like Ttit and Hughie have mentioned, it is the best thing for white wheels, and saves unnecessary wastage of the stone. Those stick things don't do a good job freehand.

At $20Cdn it is a good investment, plus a bit of jig making time.

Cheers
Pops

scooter
29th July 2007, 11:41 PM
Thanks Stu, good idea, archived & added to the gunna list :2tsup:


Cheers................Sean

Stu in Tokyo
25th October 2007, 10:48 PM
Well Scooter asked for some follow up pics.........

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Here is a side view of the dresser in action

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Here is the outer bar, the one that holds the diamond dresser removed from the lower bar

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I cut some thick pieces of steel and pounded them into the bottom of the holding bar, then drilled a hole in the holding bar (you can see I had to drill TWO holes, as I made the first one too low:doh:)

I've not seen the Oneway dressing jig in person, so I'm not sure if this is how they do their jig or not, but this works for me. The one thing I'd like to change is to put a finer threaded rod in there for adjustment, the coarse thread I have there now is just that, too coarse, a much finer thread would be better.

Hope this help Scooter, if you need any more info or pics, just ask! :2tsup:

Cheers!

scooter
25th October 2007, 11:08 PM
That'll do it, thanks Stu :2tsup: :)

Tornatus
25th October 2007, 11:12 PM
G'day Stu

While reading with interest about your wheel dresser, I noticed from your second photo that you appear to have a vacuum hose set up to collect the grinder dust. My English slow-speed grinder came with a vacuum takeoff built into each of the wheel guards, and I hooked up a Y-shaped pipe to collect off both with my shop vacuum cleaner, but a friend of mine who is a WOW (Wise Old Woodworker) just about had a fit when he saw the setup and said "Don't ever run the vacuum when you're using the grinder or the sparks will cause an explosion in your vacuum cleaner!"

Since then I haven't been game to use the setup - I'm not convinced there is a definite risk, but I'm not prepared to find out the hard way!

What are your thoughts on this - do you use your vacuum when you are grinding?

ds2006
25th October 2007, 11:24 PM
Hi Stu,

quick question - I wonder how you are keeping the dressing tip running straight over the face of the wheel. From the pics, it looks like it pivots from the adjusting bolt at the bottom of the arm. If I am correct, wouldn't this result in the tip making contact with a higher point in the centre of the wheel face that at the edges? If so, would this not result in an convex profile?

From what you have said it is squaring off the face so I must be wrong and missing something. Could you show a picture of the dresser at centre and then edge?

Stu in Tokyo
26th October 2007, 05:19 AM
G'day Stu

While reading with interest about your wheel dresser, I noticed from your second photo that you appear to have a vacuum hose set up to collect the grinder dust. My English slow-speed grinder came with a vacuum takeoff built into each of the wheel guards, and I hooked up a Y-shaped pipe to collect off both with my shop vacuum cleaner, but a friend of mine who is a WOW (Wise Old Woodworker) just about had a fit when he saw the setup and said "Don't ever run the vacuum when you're using the grinder or the sparks will cause an explosion in your vacuum cleaner!"

Since then I haven't been game to use the setup - I'm not convinced there is a definite risk, but I'm not prepared to find out the hard way!

What are your thoughts on this - do you use your vacuum when you are grinding?


I did, not at the moment, because my vac don't suck so much :rolleyes: need to get a better one.

What I did was run it into a 5 gallon bucket 1/8 full of water, the water acts as a filter to take the grinding dust out of the air, and to quench any sparks.

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I think you get the idea.

With a better vac, it would work better.

Cheers!

Stu in Tokyo
26th October 2007, 05:26 AM
Hi Stu,

quick question - I wonder how you are keeping the dressing tip running straight over the face of the wheel. From the pics, it looks like it pivots from the adjusting bolt at the bottom of the arm. If I am correct, wouldn't this result in the tip making contact with a higher point in the centre of the wheel face that at the edges? If so, would this not result in an convex profile?

From what you have said it is squaring off the face so I must be wrong and missing something. Could you show a picture of the dresser at centre and then edge?

The diamond dresser slides back and forth on the bar at the top of the base piece, you are correct that it would not cut flat in a wide arc, but it only moves 1/2" side to side, so the cup in the wheel is just not there.

I'll take some more pics later.

Cheers!

PS maybe watching the Oneway Video (http://www.oneway.ca/multi-media/videos/grind_jig/dressing_jig_352x240_300k.wmv) about their system will help??

BobL
26th October 2007, 07:08 AM
The diamond dresser slides back and forth on the bar at the top of the base piece, you are correct that it would not cut flat in a wide arc, but it only moves 1/2" side to side, so the cup in the wheel is just not there.


Nice Job Stu! I agree the above effect will be small on your jig but if you wanted to minimize this futher then constructing the jig with appropriate geometry is not that hard.

To do this, lines A, B and C should be parallel and lines B and A should be colinear (check the video - the dresser is contacting the wheel at right angles to the wheel surface. To maintain these angles as the wheel wears, the dresser should be adjustable in a manner other than just moving the dresser closer to the wheel. This could be achieved by dividing the piece of steel that holds the dresser into two pieces that overlap and held together with a pair of bolts, so that it can be shortened as needed.

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=58724&stc=1&d=1193342037

rsser
26th October 2007, 07:34 AM
A tip from Lee's book on dressing with a diamond point: angle it down otherwise the wheel can fracture it. Seems Stu's is good in this respect.

FWIW, one of those Chinese $40 platforms with the mitre gauge is enough to guide a point dresser across the wheel face.

Skew ChiDAMN!!
26th October 2007, 06:51 PM
FWIW, one of those Chinese $40 platforms with the mitre gauge is enough to guide a point dresser across the wheel face.

That's all I do. Sans the mitre gauge, though.

(But then again, I can also freehand sharpen a simple scraper without faceting the bevel... :rolleyes:)

BobL
27th October 2007, 12:27 AM
That's all I do. Sans the mitre gauge, though.

(But then again, I can also freehand sharpen a simple scraper without faceting the bevel... :rolleyes:)

With your eyes closed ?
Either way
You're gooooood! :2tsup:

Skew ChiDAMN!!
27th October 2007, 09:04 PM
They tell me I'm a special case. :p

scooter
28th October 2007, 11:56 AM
A tip from Lee's book on dressing with a diamond point: angle it down otherwise the wheel can fracture it. Seems Stu's is good in this respect.

FWIW, one of those Chinese $40 platforms with the mitre gauge is enough to guide a point dresser across the wheel face.

Have read the former too, Ern, to have the point trailing.

I have tried the latter but had too much trouble with bounce. Must try it after the t bar dresser & see if that works better.

rodent
28th October 2007, 11:56 AM
Just another head case skew , but don't worry I don't .

rsser
28th October 2007, 01:01 PM
had too much trouble with bounce.

Maybe get to it before it gets too out of round?

scooter
28th October 2007, 02:52 PM
Maybe get to it before it gets too out of round?

Yeah, maybe, crappy pressed arbor washers on the grinder are maybe the original cause.

Skew ChiDAMN!!
28th October 2007, 06:25 PM
Any woodie who's concerned about dressing the wheel has probably already tossed the crappy tool-rest that came with the grinder and fitted a decent, adjustable platform jig.

I adjust the platform 'til it's angled downwards, so the diamond point trails, rest the dresser on the platform with an index finger on each side at around the halfway point and firmly grasp the handle end between my thumbs where it overhangs the front of the rest.

So, with my thumbs acting as a "fence" along the front of the platform to control the depth and my index fingers simply keeping it straight, it's just a matter of slowly nudging the platform forward until the diamond first touches the wheel. The thumbs slowly tweak it forward as the wheel is trued. It can still bounce, but this means you're feeding it too fast. :wink:

It's all over and done with far, far quicker than reading the above, even on the worst of wheels I've dressed... :rolleyes:


(Mind you, if anyone has a T-dresser they don't want... :innocent:)

scooter
28th October 2007, 08:44 PM
(Mind you, if anyone has a T-dresser they don't want... :innocent:)


Or a 4" diamond disc for an angle grinder, per Christopha on the other thread...