Getting a Handle on things.....

[Stu in Tokyo]

I saw Harry's post about making handles and how he was wishing he had the "Pin Jaws" for his chuck, I wondered about why he would want those, as I never needed them to make handles for my tools.

I thought I'd post up my method of making handles, if you have seen this all before, sorry, if not, I hope you can glean some speck of info that you can use.

I got a couple of new tools, unhanded, so I had to make some handles for them.

51986
I have two tools to make, one an EVIL skew and the other a roughing gouge. I've never had a good version of either, so I'm quite excited to get these done and use them!

51987
The first thing I do is true up the edges of the tube I'm using as a ferrule. This ferrule is some off cuts from a towel rack I made for SWMBO, it is stainless and works well for this. You can see the burr left on the inside of the tube by the pipe cutter thing I use to cut this stuff.

51988
When I get done, the burr is gone, and in fact I try to put a slight taper on the inside, to ease installing it on the handle.

51989
I have a nice chunk of Sakura on the lathe ready to make a handle, this stuff is HARD but it turns nice, as it has a VERY tight grain, and it will polish up real nice too!

51990
I stuck the roughing gouge into the pipe handle I have, and used it to rough this blank round, boy does this work! man do I like this whole roughing gouge thing!!!

.................

[Stu in Tokyo]

51994
Now I'm going to turn a tenon to put the ferrule on, I leave it a little long and then trim it later.

51995
I use a veneer caliper to check the size (that one is plastic, I need to get a steel one!) and when I get close, I check by taking the blank off the lathe and test it.

51996
it is a tight fit, but that is good!

51997
I then bash the ferrule on with a mallet.....

51998
....and finish it with the rest of the cut off of the pipe, back on the lathe it goes.

[Stu in Tokyo]

OK back to the lathe, time for some shaping of the handle.

51999
I try to make each one a touch different, so when I reach for them I can see and or feel the difference in the tool handles.

52000
The end of the tool, it is real important to have a taper on the end, as this will help with drilling the hole the tool steel goes into.

52001
Now I have the handle parted off, the tail stock removed, and a drill chuck, with a properly sized drill bit installed.

52002
Now I hold the bottom of the handle against the tail of the lathe, with out any tailstock in there (the pointy spinny bit) and here the taper on the bottom of the handle sits in the hole of the tail, centering it. I hold this with my hand, and I turn the tail stock handle slowly forward to push the handle into the drill bit. I have the lathe turned way down to around 250 rpms.

52003
I then use a block of wood and a mallet to bash the tool into the handle, and now I have a nicely handed (if I say so myself!) roughing gouge.

[Stu in Tokyo]

52004
This blank had some inclusions and cracks in it (nothing major) that I filled with CA and sanded. To finish these I sand to #400, then I put on the sanding sealer, let it dry, sand to #400 again, then to #600. Once I sand to #600, I then put some stick wax on it and buff, this leaves a nice looking handle.

I've done three of these now, the Supa gouge (a bowl gouge on steroids) the roughing gouge and evil Skew, and a Bedan tool......

52005
I also did a handle for the file I use for my chainsaw.

I sure enjoy this aspect of turning, making your own tools, and they are a LOT cheaper (here in Japan) this way, especially as I had a buddy who was in Canada pick these up for me and bring them back, so I paid no shipping either

This Sakura is sure nice for this stuff, looks good too.

Cheers!

[Cliff Rogers]

Good on ya. :2tsup:

[Stu in Tokyo]

Thanks Cliff, I try! :D

[DJ’s Timber]

They look great Stu, interested to see what you think of the Supa Gouge once you've used it

[Stu in Tokyo]

Actually, I did this a while back, so I've been using the Supra gouge for some time and I just love it, I'd buy it again in a heart beat! :2tsup:

It totally ROCKS for roughing out green bowl blanks, I can dig holes in t blanks faster than you would think you could, I can take DEEP cuts and the Supra gouge does not even notice.

GREAT buy, money well spent, IMHO! :D

Cheers!

[Cliff Rogers]

What did you use to clean up the feral ferrule?

[Caveman]

:2tsup: Nice one Stu - very comprehensive.
Will return to this thread before I make my next handle for a re-cap.

[TTIT]

I agree you don't need the pin jaws to make handles Stu but I'm guessin' you've never had the drill run off center and mess up your finished handle!?!?:C If you're unlucky enough to have it happen (jinxed ya' now!), try drilling your hole first up, then mount a bit of rod or dowel in the chuck that is a snug fit in the hole to drive your blank while you rough, shape and finish the handle. Guarantees your tool is centered in the handle this way.:U

[Cliff Rogers]

I predrill my handles too & then use the cone centre tailstock in that hole.

[Stu in Tokyo]

Nope, never had a drill go off center, dunno how it could....?

I just use a scraper to true up the ferrule, that SS is very soft compared to the HSS of the turning tools.

Cheers!

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

I can see you haven't tried your hand at pens! :U

The smallest a pen blank is usually drilled is with a 7mm bit and it is very common for the drill to wander off with the grain, even when drilled on the lathe. Mind you, when the wood you're drilling is only a 10 or 11mm square cross-section in the first place, any deviation is immediately obvious! :rolleyes:

Spade bits are even worse...

It's not such a problem when drilling into the side grain of course, but end-grain is a pain. :~

[Stu in Tokyo]

I can see you haven't tried your hand at pens! :U
Dunno where you got that idea..........

52023
That is about a quarter of the last batch I did :D

Dilling the tool handles, I turn the lathe down to about 200 rpm, then guide it by hand, I've yet to have a problem.

Cheers!

[wheelinround]

Dunno where you got that idea..........

52023
That is about a quarter of the last batch I did :D

Dilling the tool handles, I turn the lathe down to about 200 rpm, then guide it by hand, I've yet to have a problem.

Cheers!

Stu your a genius and everything you have done shows there is always more then one way to achieve the end result.

I have just made 2 chiesle handles and am about to go out and make a couple of handles for turning tools and files x 8
Thanks for posting this excellent pics and advice
Ray

[Hardenfast]

Excellent thread Stu - most informative and helpful for a mission I am about to attempt (ie. a series of carving chisel handles).

The versatility of the variable speed machines becomes more and more apparent - especially when you need to slow the revs right down for a particular task - eg. hole drilling. Something to aspire to, once my skills begin to justify the required expense - although that seems a little far away at this stage.

Wayne

[OGYT]

Well done tutorial, Stu. Some nice lookin' handles. Nice batch of pens, too. Hard to turn those pens with the Supra? :wink: :D

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Dunno where you got that idea..........

That is about a quarter of the last batch I did :D

What can I say? :2tsup: I'm even more astounded that you don't have problems with drill drift, though. Must be the wood over there. :wink:

[Stu in Tokyo]

What can I say? :2tsup: I'm even more astounded that you don't have problems with drill drift, though. Must be the wood over there. :wink:

Well, I did drill the pen blanks on the drill press, not the lathe :rolleyes:

I did the Skew handle today, I'll post pics later! :2tsup:

[Harry72]

Thanks for the run down on how its done Stu!

I was thinking that with the pin jaws I could rechuck it and finish the end off nicely?

[Stu in Tokyo]

You should get yourself a "Safety Drive" or what ever they are called, they work MUCH better for thing kind of thing, as you can remount a piece many times, and it will go back on the lathe each time right on the money.

http://www.oneway.ca/spindle/images/no2MT_safe_driver_250px.jpg
Like this, they work well for this application, and are good to turn on, for me at least.

I know the very tip of the handle end can be a little hard to get just right, but I find a sharp knife and a little sandpaper is all it takes to fix it up.

I think that even the pin jaws would leave some marks.

In the end, I don't get into it, it's a handle for a tool, and it will get knocked around a dropped :rolleyes: so I don't get too worried about the finish being perfect.

Cheers!

[Cliff Rogers]

..I could rechuck it and finish the end off nicely?


....a sharp knife and a little sandpaper is all it takes to fix it up........

I stick my power sanding pad in a jacobs chuck in the lathe to spin the sandpaper & present the butt end of the handle to it to finish it off.


....In the end, I don't get into it, it's a handle for a tool, and it will get knocked around a dropped :rolleyes: so I don't get too worried about the finish being perfect.....!
Spot on. :2tsup:

[Harry72]

Was thinking more of grabbing the ferrule with the jaws?
Im using Ubeaut shellawax so I need friction?

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

For Shellawax, yeah it's easiest to polish on the lathe.

Just grab the spigot with the jaws, before you put the ferrule on. Less visible marks that way...

[Harry72]

Yep thats sounds like the go... bit hard with 50mm jaws tho, still waitin for me pin jaws and box of domi's:((

[Cliff Rogers]

...Im using Ubeaut shellawax so I need friction?
No problem, get one of these (http://www.ubeaut.com.au/sdmops.htm) & put it in the jacobs chuck after you finish the sanding. :2tsup:

Rub the shellawax on the freshly sanded end & then buff it.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

If the spigot's small enough, you can hold it with "the poor man's small jaws"... ie. the hole formed by the inside "ends" of the jaws where they screw to the slides.

Not recommended for holding something to turn, but perfectly OK for a light sand'n'polish. Does tend to leave crimp marks in the stub if overtightened though. :wink:

[Stu in Tokyo]

Harry, from my personal experience, I don't like nothing with wax in it on my tool handles. Sure, they look nice when freshly done, but I've found that just a sanding sealer is enough, then after time, the oils from your hands, with use, will give them a good finish. If I had the time I'd replace EVERY handle on the store bought tools I have, NONE of them fit my hands the way I like. When I'm making handles, I stop often and check the shape in my hand, this way, the tool fits my hands.

Just my two yen's worth

[BernieP]

G'Day Stu

Great tutorial will store away for future reference, one that stumps me is the thin parting tool, never seem to get it to sit solidly in handle? Any ideas?

Cheers
Bernie

[Harry72]

Stu, the ones Im making are for files, I dont use them all that much so some wax wouldnt hurt.
Im not sure but I dont think Ubeauts Shellawax is just wax, its a full finish that polymerizes and goes hard(Neil?).

[Stu in Tokyo]

Hi Bernie, thanks! :U


How thin is thin?

I have one that is about 1.5mm thick, old WIDE hacksaw blade thing, I don't put a turned handle on it, I make a handle more like a knife, two pieces and two rivets, like this..........
52140


If you are talking about the typical diamond ones, about 4 mm thick they should have a tang on them that will go into a round hole well.

52141

or are you talking about something else?

Cheers! :2tsup:

[Stu in Tokyo]

OK Harry, I see. From the name Shellawax, it sounds like a Shellac/wax mixture.

Most Shellac has a natural amount of wax in it, that is why you can buy "De-Waxed Shellac".

Maybe this polish that you are talking about has more wax added?

Anyway, if it is a "Friction" finish, yeah, the easiest way is to buff it on the lathe.

When you finish, please show us some pics! :2tsup:

[BernieP]

G'Day Stu

Have taken a pic of tool, it was a bit longer before it came loose and fell between toolrest and piece of wood:o but is the basic shape it is 2mm thick.

Cheers
Bernie

[Stu in Tokyo]

Hi Bernie!

A two part handle would work, or you could grind a tang on the one end and then insert that into a round handle much easier.......

52163

Like this photoshopped one :U

Cheers!

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Personally I'd just leave it as it is and bolt a wooden scale to each side, ala a knife handle.

Being a parting tool the odds are it will jam sooner or later, and when a parting tool jams it's usually in a spectacular fashion. Having a tang ground in like that gives it a built-in failure point... well... more so than a bolt hole anyway, which I wouldn't recommend unless you've a fondness for very short tools. :wink:

[Stu in Tokyo]

I agree a two part handle is best, and you could glue it in place, not even bolt it.

Cheers!

[BernieP]

G'Day Stu and Skew

It is HSS can I drill that ok? And would I use 2 part Epoxy?

Cheers
Bernie

[Stu in Tokyo]

Sure, you can drill HSS, you just need to build a forge, build a propane gas burner, and then anneal the steel, drill it, and then harden and temper the steel............. easy :D

Seriously, I think you can buy a concrete or masonry drill, then sharpen it up and it will drill HSS, but it is not easy, that is why I vote for a glued on handle, dunno which glue would work best, get something that is designed to glue wood to steel, and make sure you sand the steel to be sure it is clean before you glue it.

Cheers!

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

HSS is drillable... just. :rolleyes: Carbide drills are the go, a solid carbide one is exxy though! (And bllody fragile. :() We sorta covered it in this thread. (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=29221)

Basically, the cheapest way is to use a sharpened carbide tipped masonry bit at slow speed with a lot of oil.




Edit: SNAP! :) That'll teach me to muck around searching for old threads. :roll:

[BernieP]

G'day Stu and Skew

I now know why I hadn't saved that thread, way beyond my capabilities:?

Will try for the glue, question, if I make a normal round handle, a couple of parallel holes (sort of a slot) so base fits in and glue it in, how much of the blade should I embed?

Cheers
Bernie

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

a glued on handle, dunno which glue would work best, get something that is designed to glue wood to steel, and make sure you sand the steel to be sure it is clean before you glue it.

Epoxy is OK, but a good, sharp knock (like dropping it hilt first on a concrete floor :-) can break the glue joint. I really prefer to drill and use cutler's rivets but I'm lucky in that I'm already set up to do that.

Bernie, if you make both scales for the handle a couple of mm wider than the steel, you can simply cut a narrow rebates at both ends and make wire-wrap/epoxy ferrules. Sorta like a hose-clamp at each end, but much prettier. :wink:

But if you want a "full-sized" handle, to match your other tools for example, then I'd cut the handle blank in half lengthwise and route a groove at one end of each, half the thickness of the steel deep, and then glue the two halves back together. You could then turn it as per normal, just glue the steel in and mount a copper ferrule. (A ferrule at both ends would be better.)

[BernieP]

G'Day Skew

Thanks as usual big help, think I'll try the two ferrule idea, let you know how I go.

Cheers
Bernie

[Stu in Tokyo]

G'Day Skew

Thanks as usual big help, think I'll try the two ferrule idea, let you know how I go.

Cheers
Bernie

Don't forget the pictures :D

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Oh... and to answer the question I meant to answer before I got carried away typing... :rolleyes: My rule of thumb is between a third and a half of it's length is handled.

[TTIT]

There is an extremely easy way of drilling HSS - can even be done with a normal electric drill - check this thread (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showpost.php?p=501225&postcount=10). :2tsup:

[Harry72]

" When you finish, please show us some pics!"

Ok, done 3 so far... its a start, from left to right in order that I made them, SBgum, brushbox or tallow?, Sbgum
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v725/ST170ish/IMG_0093.jpg
As you can see on #3 brass is much nicer, but I forgot to true up the ends as you can see... oops! #1 is only coated in linseed oil #2&3 are sanded too 800 then EEE'd and some shellawax then buffed with Trad wax.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v725/ST170ish/IMG_0094-1.jpg

[Stu in Tokyo]

WAY too nice for file handles! :D :2tsup:

Brass is nice, copper is good too, but here in Japan, copper and brass are WAY too dear, so I just use steel!

NICE job Harry! :)

[ian m]

stu re tool hanles
how do you go with tools which have tangs so it is a good tight fit
how are you getting the tool in even if it is made from round bar stock
thanks

[Stu in Tokyo]

Hi Ian!

I clamp the tool in my vice, then I put the handle on the end of the tool and beat the tar out of it with a 2lb sledgehammer, using a scrap piece of wood to pound on.

Eventually the tool will move, not held by the vice, at that point it is usually about 80% in the handle, so I then take the tool end and put it on a stump I have, endgrain, and again pound the tar out of it, again with a block of wood protecting the handle.

With tools like skews, I often end up having to then extract the tool from the stump, but that is not usually a problem.

The fit on the tool to the handle should be snug, if it is really tight, you could crack your handle doing this.

Cheers!

[ian m]

Thanks
I wondered if this would damage the cutting edge an if for a broad tang some sort of tapered guide hole was necessary