Electric drills for power sanding

[rsser]

The old Skil job just died after an honourable 30 years.

There no longer appear to be drills on the market with all of the following:

1. 10mm keyed chuck (for reverse sanding)
2. variable speed with speed lock button
3. reversible

(except for those 90 degree jobs that cost $450

There's a Makita and a Maktec with 1 and 3 and I'm wondering whether an inline light dimmer switch could take the place of a speed lock button.

What do you think?

Would it starve the drill of current, or cause snow in all the TV sets in the neighbourhood?

[orraloon]

Hi,
Try the XU1 at $15 it has all the bits you need.
13mm key chuck
reverse
var speed
hammer action.
While I have had a few disappointments with cheep tools this is the dogs b###ox. I got it as a spare drill 2 years ago and have been surprised how good it is. Even if it had been lessthan perfect at the price it is no tears would be shed. Bunnies, Miter 10 and some other places.

Regards
John

[rsser]

Thanks John, but 13mm chuck jobs I find just too big and awkward for this application.

[wattlewemake]

http://www.tradetools.com.au/ProdView.aspx?popup=1&Category=SXM90F1C1&Product=TTD350ED

[Frank&Earnest]

The old Skil job just died after an honourable 30 years.

There no longer appear to be drills on the market with all of the following:

1. 10mm keyed chuck (for reverse sanding)
2. variable speed with speed lock button
3. reversible

(except for those 90 degree jobs that cost $450

There's a Makita and a Maktec with 1 and 3 and I'm wondering whether an inline light dimmer switch could take the place of a speed lock button.

What do you think?

Would it starve the drill of current, or cause snow in all the TV sets in the neighbourhood?

Good question. It might work. The switch of an old B&D I have gave up the ghost and I was about to give it a decent burial. I should also have an old 10mm chuck to fit. I will try to rig it up as you suggest and if it works I will make you an offer you can't refuse...:D

Edited to add: seen the link provided by Wattlemake... go for it, for $48 you can't go wrong (unless the keyless chuck is too big).

[rsser]

Thanks guys.

Went through the website ... some units lack the detail to be sure but none of them clearly match the 3 things I'm looking for.

I've been on the phone to a couple of big industrial supplies places as well as trawled the websites of known-brand manufacturers (which adds a criterion that I forgot to list).

I have bought a Maktec but it doesn't have the speed lock knob. The VS is controlled by trigger depression which isn't especially easy to achieve when you're swivelling the unit in and out of a bowl.

... keyless chucks unwind when reverse sanding; 13mm chucks mean units an order of magnitude bigger than the 10mm; three months ago the big makers had the kind of thing I need on their lists but no more.

[scooter]

Ern, what about sourcing a drill with the other bits & just buy a keyed chuck to fit it. Should be able to source one without too much drama.

[rsser]

K, hadn't thought of that. Thanks.

Got a few small jacobs chucks lying around ... press fit I think. Is that normal? Or is threaded?

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

It might be worth your while to check out your local Ca$h Converters or pawnshops.

I always feel ethically obliged to avoid these places, all too many of my possessions have passed through such places without my leave :~, but I recently bought a good tradesman's rotary hammer drill which I knew came from a deceased mates' estate at a ludicrously low price. Another case of a neighbour offering to help the freshly bereaved widow by "getting rid of the junk." :o

[sigh] It's a sad moment when you feel you need to justify your reasons for walking into a shop... any kind of shop! :B

Anyways, at the time I spotted other similar drills, with similar low price tags. They were old(ish) and a tad battered, but by the same token they were of the era before batt. drills & keyless chucks were common, back when tools were still being made to last and had all the features I've ever desired in a drill. :thyel:

Better still, all the elec. equipment at our local Ca$hCon has been tested/certified and I'm assuming that's a legal requirement nowadays so the motors should've been good to go. Just a quick test-spin (to check the gear box) before laying any coin on the counter...

[scooter]

K, hadn't thought of that. Thanks.

Got a few small jacobs chucks lying around ... press fit I think. Is that normal? Or is threaded?

The ones I've seen are RH threaded onto the drill's motor shaft with a small LH threaded retaining screw inside.

Open out the chuck jaws to max opening then have a squiz inside. Should be able to see the screw. Undo it clockwise , then the chuck should screw off anticlockwise. Get creative if it's on tight - do chuck up tight to a bit of rod in a vise & try it in reverse, try hammer (the function on the drill, not a persuader :wink: ), maybe chuck a bit of rod bent at right angles like an allen key & give it a rap with a wooden mallet to break it free, ...

[Grumpy John]

The ones I've seen are RH threaded onto the drill's motor shaft with a small LH threaded retaining screw inside.

Open out the chuck jaws to max opening then have a squiz inside. Should be able to see the screw. Undo it clockwise , then the chuck should screw off anticlockwise. Get creative if it's on tight - do chuck up tight to a bit of rod in a vise & try it in reverse, try hammer (the function on the drill, not a persuader :wink: ), maybe chuck a bit of rod bent at right angles like an allen key & give it a rap with a wooden mallet to break it free, ...


Better still, use an allen key that the chuck won't spin on the rod

[BANNED]

Hi everyone,

I've found something that I believe is going to work well for my sending needs. Mine is on back order, unless you find a store that has one on the shelve. GMC Right Angle Drills (not cordless)

[Baz]

Hi Ern, get hold of an AEG SBE 500 R (blue), I have been using one of these for many years nows, done heaps of bowls, outlasted many others. Used to get about a year a drill before this one.
Cheers
Barry

[rsser]

Thanks again guys.

Nyodine ... that's a keyless chuck by the look of it.

Baz ... drew a blank on new ones with a Google. Prob. no longer made? Any case, it's half inch chuck.

[rsser]

... added, yeah, should've thought of that Skew. Cash Busters seem to have a lot of gear on ebay.

Sean, thanks: one of my two spare Jacobs chucks is press fit, the other threaded.

[Calm]

I have bought a Maktec but it doesn't have the speed lock knob. The VS is controlled by trigger depression which isn't especially easy to achieve when you're swivelling the unit in and out of a bowl.



Ern
A mate in Ballarat rebuilds gokart motors (yamaha) and he uses a drill for the honing of the bores. He purchased a "Box" from "dick smith" that he uses to reduce the speed of the drill. A phone call he's "not home" but i will follow it up and get back to you. Not expensive and already used on a drill so i know it will work. This is just plugged into the power point and the drill plugs into it. I know it does not reduce voltage but I am sure it will work. No complaints from his neighbours over the tele

[rsser]

Cool. Thanks David.

[rodent]

As for a speed controller ern dont use a lamp dimmer ,there not built for it dick smith had a kit for one ,if they dont still stock it try jaycar . I know your not into building electronic kits so ill do it for you .ok

[hughie]

Ern,
I am using an el cheapo XU1 as my sander, so far so good. Although I intend to build a set up like Verns, from memory runs a flexible drive cable off his drill. Which gives the freedom of movement and variable speed control.

Cant seem to find the darn thread.. :B Hey Vern could you re-send it..:U

ta muchly

[rsser]

Thanks Rodney, appreciate it ... let me first take a look at what I can do with one ... got a small soldering iron.

Edit: thanks Hughie; yeah, remember that thread.

[Baz]

Hi Ern, my drill is a 10mm key chuck, however the pix on the net shows a keyless chuck. As usual a new improved? model.
Cheers
Barry

[rsser]

Yep. That's the message I got from suppliers - almost everything with all the bells and whistles has gone to keyless.

A 12v cordless/keyless I've got spins well enough to do the job and is easy to hold and point but just unwinds on reverse. Maybe I need an onsite gorilla.

[Calm]

Ern

Rang Heppy - not home all weekend found him in Hobart.

- what he has is a variable drive speed kit he purchased from Dick Smith.

It will work on all single phase motors. I can borrow his and bring it down on the 16th if you want to try it.

Apparently it doesnt reduce voltage it reduces cycles 50mhz or what ever it is .

Its above my head but am happy to bring it down for trial if you can wait about 3 weeks.

[Calm]

Ern

After the borrowed speed control stopped working at the weekend i have been following up with Dick Smith's about parts or a new one to give back to my mate. - the bloke i borrowed it from -

The Tech support people i spoke to said that they have an AC speed control kit out but not a complete unit at the moment.

He can supply parts to fix the borrowed one - thats good:U

He said to get a Fan control circuit/switch that is the size of a power point and a box for it. Run the wire in and out and there you go you have the speed control that you want for sanding.

Hope it is of some help.

[rsser]

David, great minds etc. (well, maybe :- ).

Yesterday I trekked through three Dick Smiths as well as Jaycar and none had nuffink. Once made but no more. (Nearly made a mistake with a 12v DC control). General view in DSE was that nobody buys kits any more and they're remaindering many of theirs.

But I'll follow up the tip you got. Much appreciated.

[TTIT]

I've got no idea how I missed this thread back when it started but what you're looking for Ern is pretty much why I went for the flexible-shaft setup (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=39320&d=1170116284) I use - twas the only thing around with a 10mm keyed chuck - wanted the whole business-end of things as compact as possible. To compliment it, I'm now looking very unsuccessfully for a mini-angle grinder or similar. The Proxxon is close to what I want but it still needs at least a 60mm hole to get in through - want smaller if I can find it :shrug:

[rsser]

Thanks Vern.

But I still need a drill with a VS lock dial or an AC controller to regulate the rpm.

[Added: Sorry. OK, the XU1 must have it, yeah? Can't see from your pic. So where can I source the flex cable/chuck? Yep, I can google ... these the right terms?]

[Calm]

Ern the DSE man said about $20 for a fan control.

Bought the bits to fix heppy's and it cost a total of $1.95.

[rsser]

Can't argue with that return on investment ;-}

The speed control sure made a difference on Sunday.

[wheelinround]

The old Skil job just died after an honourable 30 years.

There no longer appear to be drills on the market with all of the following:

1. 10mm keyed chuck (for reverse sanding)
2. variable speed with speed lock button
3. reversible

(except for those 90 degree jobs that cost $450

There's a Makita and a Maktec with 1 and 3 and I'm wondering whether an inline light dimmer switch could take the place of a speed lock button.

What do you think?

Would it starve the drill of current, or cause snow in all the TV sets in the neighbourhood?


The Old Skill Drills were repairable cost is the killer

[TTIT]

Thanks Vern.

But I still need a drill with a VS lock dial or an AC controller to regulate the rpm.

[Added: Sorry. OK, the XU1 must have it, yeah? Can't see from your pic. So where can I source the flex cable/chuck? Yep, I can google ... these the right terms?]Flexible shaft was about $50 from GasWeld in Coffs Harbour Ern - should be able to find them down there somewhere. Any 'standard' variable speed, reversible drill can be set up with a cam like I used for speed control, I only used the XU1 as an experiment 'cos it was dirt cheap . Funny thing is, it's still running after a lot more hours than some other 3 letter brand stuff I've had.:;

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Anyone know if it's possible to retrofit a jacob's or collet chuck to an old dental drill handpiece?

I've an old military dentist's drill in perfect working order (both electrical and treadle power :D) but it got to be a headache chasing up bits for it, so I went and bought a Dremel. Now I'm wondering how it'll go as a sander...

[hughie]

[Anyone know if it's possible to retrofit a jacob's or collet chuck to an old dental drill handpiece?



Skew,

If you can find an old flexible drive they used to have a small jacobs type chuck on them which could be suitable for fitting to it.

If you post a pic of the business end I'll check what I have got and see whats involved.....had one somewheres that I am not using....bought a dremel instead. :U...been keeping the flex drive for a rainy day...

[rsser]

Any 'standard' variable speed, reversible drill can be set up with a cam like I used for speed control, I only used the XU1 as an experiment 'cos it was dirt cheap . Funny thing is, it's still running after a lot more hours than some other 3 letter brand stuff I've had.:;

Thanks Vern.

Hmm, that's got me thinking about a low-tech solution like a self-tapper in the trigger to limit the travel. Bodgy brothers rule ;-}

[TTIT]

Thanks Vern.

Hmm, that's got me thinking about a low-tech solution like a self-tapper in the trigger to limit the travel. Bodgy brothers rule ;-}No need Ern - they have a dial on the front of the switch that limits how far it can be depressed :2tsup:

[rsser]

No, I was thinking of the Maktec which I bought Vern.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

If you can find an old flexible drive they used to have a small jacobs type chuck on them which could be suitable for fitting to it.

If you post a pic of the business end I'll check what I have got and see whats involved.....had one somewheres that I am not using....bought a dremel instead. :U...been keeping the flex drive for a rainy day...

This beast is one of the ol' belt'n'pulley driven jointed arm type jobs. I've no pics of it assembled (and don't particularly wish to set it up until I have floor-space free to keep it set up :-) but here's a pic of it in it's case.
56171

The bit is driven by a small flat on it's shaft and held in place by the lever on the handpiece clipping into a slot on the tail of the bit. I'm hoping the shaft on a small jacob's or collet chuck can be modified to fit this drive system. [fingers Xed]
5617256173

The conical "nose-piece" with the blue stripe twists and unlocks from the hand-piece, to show the end of the shaft is terminated in a small crown wheel. I'd thought about modifying this bit to take a jacob's chuck, but as the conical section also centres the shaft, no internal bearings, that's not really practical. (Nor do I particularly wish to devalue the unit! :wink:) I wonder whether a replacement nose-cone/chuck assembly was ever made for these way back when?
56174

The "tail end" of the hand-piece clips onto the end of the flexible arm and is directly driven by a pulley. The end of the drive-shaft in both cases is protected by an outer tube, so there's no "simple" way to attach a replacement hand-piece. :(
56175

I don't want to make any permanent mods to this beast, as 'twas made in '57, is complete and working and I've all the paperwork (initial receipts, guarantee, all military service records and paper-trail of all owners since) and I believe it's worth a few pennies. :2tsup: Although, looking at these pix really highlights that it needs another good clean and lube... I haven't opened the case for some 2 years now, but I thought I'd packed it away with a better coat of oil than that. Shame on me! :(:-

[Cliff Rogers]

Erk.... Skew, that is a torture tool... yuk. :oo:

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

It brings back some 'orrible memories, true enough... :rolleyes:


But surprisingly enough, as an engraver for working wood it works very well, is a helluva lot lighter than my Dremel and gets into waaay tighter spots. Of course, a flexishaft on the Dremel would equalise this, but I don't have one yet...

[TTIT]

Makes me skin crawl just lookin' at the pics :o If it still sounds like the real-deal there is no way I could use it in the shed - oooeeerr - shudder at the thought :C

[Cliff Rogers]

That is not one of the high-speed water drills, that is one of the lower speed 'grinders' that would rattle ya brains & you could smell the tooth when it overheated. :yuk:

[Frank&Earnest]

OK, back to the question:



I'd thought about modifying this bit to take a jacob's chuck, but as the conical section also centres the shaft, no internal bearings, that's not really practical. (Nor do I particularly wish to devalue the unit! :wink:) I wonder whether a replacement nose-cone/chuck assembly was ever made for these way back when?



Wouldn't a bush with a couple of grub screws be the easiest non-destructive joining method? As I do noth know the correct technical words, this is a pic of what I mean. The small chuck comes from a cheap hand drill (you can have it if you want).

ETA: maybe a turned wood sleeve extending the handle to cover this extension would improve handling.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

That is not one of the high-speed water drills, that is one of the lower speed 'grinders' that would rattle ya brains & you could smell the tooth when it overheated. :yuk:

Exactly. Somehow I don't think a modern one would be much chop for sanding wood... way too high an RPM and I have enough problems with moisture content without adding a watering system as well. :D


Wouldn't a bush with a couple of grub screws be the easiest non-destructive joining method? As I do noth know the correct technical words, this is a pic of what I mean. The small chuck comes from a cheap hand drill (you can have it if you want).

The problem with that is the end bearing is in the"conical" section that's removed to expose the shaft. When sanding (or grinding) there's a fair bit of side-force and it needs a bearing there. :(

The more I think about it, the less I think that I can adapt that hand-piece. The thickest part of the bit shank is only a couple of mm and driving a 2" sanding disk, well... I expect it'd snap the shaft quicker than it'd remove wood.

However, using your idea of a wooden sleeve I may be able to make a new replacement hand-piece with a thicker shaft... it wouldn't have the angled head but I don't think that'd be too much of a disadvantage...

Hmmm... :think:

[Zedster]

If it's an idea, I personally use one of the following for power sanding, and when it's not connected to the compressor it acts just like the sorby sandmaster but better, you can even change the mop for other bits to cut and grind.

http://www2.northerntool.com/product-1/371250.htm

Simple really, hope it helps :2tsup:

[rsser]

How do you go controlling the speed Zedster?

[Frank&Earnest]

Thanks Vern (and John). Given that I already had a good flexible shaft the xu1 was all I needed to replicate your jig. Now what I need is to know how to use it. Any good advice on the use of reverse and best speed/grit ratios?
Thanks
Frank

[TTIT]

Dunno about 'good' advice Frank but I just run it in the opposite direction to the way the wood's traveling which depends on whether I'm sanding inside or outside a form etc. I don't run it very fast if the lathes running but I lift the speed a little when I'm sanding stationary stuff like natural edge forms. I run 80, 150, 240 then 400grit which seems to be equivalent to about 800 by hand - got no idea why :shrug:

[Frank&Earnest]

Thanks Vern, that should be enough to get me started. Now I will search again for rotary sanding (I remember I asked the question before), buy a couple of pads and off I go! By the way, I cannibalised the switch and cable from a dead B&D jigsaw and replaced the dead switch of my 30yo drill, which is now as good as new (so to speak). No need to muck around with light dimmers, when the whole xu1 costs $15.88. It even has a cute spirit level in the handle! :)

Cheers
Frank

ETA: I found Ubeaut's page about rotary sanding but those pads are attached to a handle for manual use. The pad in your photo looks similar, did you buy those and discarded the handle or found some specifically for power sanding?

[hughie]

The bit is driven by a small flat on it's shaft and held in place by the lever on the handpiece clipping into a slot on the tail of the bit. I'm hoping the shaft on a small jacob's or collet chuck can be modified to fit this drive system.


Skew,

There is a product on the market that could be modified to suit. I dont think there will be a small enough Jacobs chuck around.

http://www.justtools.com.au/prod2062.htm
http://www.hobbytool.com/browseproducts/Pin-Chuck-Set.html

Pin chucks should be OK but at the end of the day your not gonna get a very big sanding head. If your looking at detail work etc they would be ideal.

Also I think any further mods would involve some more serious work on the working end and, as you say its old and heading toward a collectable.

On lighter note I recall this type from my younger days. Except it was pedal driven...great stuff ?...not! Cos the nurse would get tired and the revs would drop off........:C....arrrggghh !

[Calm]

When looking at flexible drives some shearing plants had them as well as te battery operated portable ones. These drives could be converted for this use i am sure.

Old farmer coming out in me.

[TTIT]

ETA: I found Ubeaut's page about rotary sanding but those pads are attached to a handle for manual use. The pad in your photo looks similar, did you buy those and discarded the handle or found some specifically for power sanding?You can get them straight up as you see in the pic. Velcro pad in 1", 2" and 3" versions. They've got a hex shaft on them so you can slip them into standard quick-chucks too. I got mine from SouthEast Qld Woodworking supplies but I'm sure some of the other mobs have them - maybe Neil too?!?! :shrug:

[Frank&Earnest]

Thanks Vern, I'll look around.

[rsser]

http://www.cws.au.com/cgi/index.cgi/shopfront/view_by_category?category_id=1107144922

Cheap to make your own discs ... buy quality velcro sanding sheets and make your own punches; eg. 2" punch from exhaust pipe with incannel grind.

[Frank&Earnest]

http://www.cws.au.com/cgi/index.cgi/shopfront/view_by_category?category_id=1107144922

Cheap to make your own discs ... buy quality velcro sanding sheets and make your own punches; eg. 2" punch from exhaust pipe with incannel grind.

Thanks for the link, Ern.

As regards velcro, I had a poor experience with a Bosch orbital sander, like this one: http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=57121 To get any use off it I ended up just sticking the disks on with PVA.

In everybody's experience, do the hooks on the pads normally give up the ghost after a couple of hours' operation, or are they expected to be more durable and it will be all my fault if they don't? :-

[rsser]

With quality paper like SIA or Hermes you'll have no problems, and I've used a 2" pad for over a year now, again no probs. What tends to happen is that the edge wears away over time so you end up with less than 2" diam. Sometimes this is helpful as it allows you to 'back the paper' into an angle.

No F&E, this'll be the best $21 you spent on a sanding tool.

[Tim the Timber Turner]

No F&E, this'll be the best $21 you spent on a sanding tool.

Thanks Ern.

Your commision is in the mail.

Cheers

Tim

[rsser]

Just as a btw, and courtesy of a tip from Allan at Wallan, I dropped in on these guys in Albert St., Preston, Melbourne:

http://www.sandpaperplus.com.au/home/index.php

They have velcro backed paper in grits from 80 to 400, 115mm wide, at c. $4 a lineal metre. The brand is Sunmight which I've never heard of but the shopkeeper claimed it is well regarded. Yet to try it. If memory serves, it works out roughly two thirds the price of sheets of Hermes from Carba-tec.

And as another btw, the 2" pads are good general purpose units; the 3" are good for larger bowls and the 1" for finer spindle work. But in each case, one false move will turn crisp detail into wilted detail :doh:

[Frank&Earnest]

Thanks Ern.

Your commision is in the mail.

Cheers

Tim

Emoticons are essential for these short messages. Was it :), :rolleyes: or :(?

:p

[Frank&Earnest]

But in each case, one false move will turn crisp detail into wilted detail :doh:
Now you got me really worried... and spurred another question :-. Given that plenty of people swear for the friction rolling unpowered solution, is there any real advantage to go power? (btw... GO POWER!:D)

[rsser]

Not wilted, limp! The pun that is ;-}

No need to be worried about losing detail; just take the same care you would when turning it.

Now your question may spark WW3 but here's my two bob's worth. I've used the Vicmarc rotary sander and it did a fine job; a given grit would produce a finish one or maybe even two grits higher than power sanding. It's easy to use and perhaps harder to c*ck up than the alternative.

Power is IMO faster by far (and did I mention that I hate sanding?); on the outside of a bowl with 80 or 120 grit and pushing in you can take the odd ridge off because the foam in the sandwich will compress and give you a nice arc.

The only application for which I would've reached for the Vicmarc (and I can't now that Skew has it!) would be for woods with very different spring and summer grains set well apart (like Oregon). A power sander is prone to giving you a wave form here; then I reach for the 3" pad and a light touch or do it by hand. Well, I don't like Oregon for turning so it's rarely an issue. ( will reckon I'm a wood snob now but Oregon splinters and my hands don't get on well together.)

May the Power be with you :U

[scooter]

The only application for which I would've reached for the Vicmarc (and I can't now that Skew has it!) ...


Skew, you mongrel, I thought I scored it. :doh:


:D

[TTIT]

...........Now your question may spark WW3 but here's my two bob's worth. I've used the Vicmarc rotary sander and it did a fine job; a given grit would produce a finish one or maybe even two grits higher than power sanding. It's easy to use and perhaps harder to c*ck up than the alternative.

Power is IMO faster by far (and did I mention that I hate sanding?)............
You'll get no warfare from this corner :U Didn't cough up the big bucks for a Vicmark 'cos I was skeptical about their abilities so I made one instead :shrug: Worked exactly the same but has never been used again simply because it's useless in the middle/bottom of a form whereas power sanding is priceless there :;. I get a lot of (a few:shrug: ) comments from other turners about the flow and finish of this part of my work and you won't get it (as easily) with hand/rotary sanding - all praise the power :2tsup:

[rsser]

Glad to hear it Sean. Now I know who to call when Oregon's been chucked up ;-} ... Yep, following Vern, the power sander with coarser grits is not just a sanding but also a shaping device. If you're dozing you can go through the bottom of a bowl. DAMHIK!

[scooter]

If you're dozing you can go through the bottom of a bowl. DAMHIK!


This is where you're going wrong, Ern, that's what a gouge is for. :rolleyes: :D

[Frank&Earnest]

it's useless in the middle/bottom of a form whereas power sanding is priceless there.

Aha! that makes perfect sense! Friction would not work well there.



all praise the power :2tsup:


That too! I was expecting a bit more "war" for this, actually:wink:. Where are all the Victorians when you need them?:D

And thanks again Ern, even if you keep scaring me! Now that I have learnt about the 60 grit gouge...

ETA: So you see, Sean, Ern IS using a "gouge" !:D

[rsser]

Yep, this one could've been done with 60 grit or a gouge :C

Good to be versatile with your tools :-

(Meant to be a salad bowl; hollowing out I was having fun with the Proforme and dozed off; followed my 'normal' cutting arc and then poo! Now a colander perhaps?)

[scooter]

Fancy funnel, mate :D

[rsser]

LOL.

I know what would have been funnelling if the Proforme had made contact with the jaws :((

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

You thinking of taking up metal turning now, Ern? :wink:


Pin chucks should be OK but at the end of the day your not gonna get a very big sanding head. If your looking at detail work etc they would be ideal.

Thanks for the links, Hughie. One ordered already.


Also I think any further mods would involve some more serious work on the working end and, as you say its old and heading toward a collectable.

Yeah, but it has one valuable property... it's here. :D

[Tim the Timber Turner]

:)
Emoticons are essential for these short messages. Was it :), :rolleyes: or :(?

:p
:2tsup:
Sorry it's been so long since I posted I have to learn it all again.

It's all changed anyway.

Cheers

Tim

[hughie]

whereas power sanding is priceless there :;. I get a lot of (a few:shrug: ) comments from other turners about the flow and finish of this part of my work and you won't get it (as easily) with hand/rotary sanding - all praise the power :2tsup:



Vern,
Totally agree! :2tsup:

Skew, did you check it capacity? Some have a very small capacity, the US link has some of the biggest I 've seen.




Thanks for the links, Hughie. One ordered already.

Thanks not required, you've done many of us, many favours.:2tsup:

[scooter]

Ern, the current Gasweld catalogue (they are in Dandenong, over this side of town) has a 800w 1/2" chuck VS lock on trigger keyed chuck reversing drill for $99.

Pic out of catalogue below