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hughie
6th September 2007, 11:15 PM
I came across this site with a couple of interesting grinds for bowl gouges.
I have included the comments from the site re the two grinds.

Be interested in your comments and evaluation of the these two




For starting the hollowing of the cap he uses a gouge with a special grind. The bevel is convex to give it a short fulcrum when changing direction. The sides of the gouge are also ground convex. This limits the depth of cut when plunging to about 1/8" and increases control. He passed the gouge around, so I took a picture (Figure 7).<?XML:NAMESPACE PREFIX = O /><O:P> </O:P>


http://davidreedsmith.com/Articles/2002Symposium/2002AAWSymposium.htm




The last rotation I watched on Saturday was Michael Hosaluk-Box Making with a Twist. Michael started with a long square of wood between centers and turned a tenon for his chuck at each end. He had modified the corners of his P&N roughing gouge (although Michael didn't mention it at the demo, he imports P&N tools. I have some and they are excellent. You wouldn't believe how solid the roughing gouge is) to let him turn square shoulders for the tenons. Figure 9 shows the modification.<O:P> </O:P>
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mick61
6th September 2007, 11:36 PM
G`day the first grind looks a bit rough. The roughing gouge all I can think of is what the?Mick

Tornatus
6th September 2007, 11:42 PM
Interesting mod on the roughing gouge, Hughie, but I don't think I would like to give up the long straight wings of my excellent P&N deep-flute roughing gouge, which allow some really fine planing.

I must say can't really see the point of the mod - I use my trusty Bedans for turning spigots / tenons, as they really remove wood fast and true. My first Bedan was a Hamlet 10mm, which I found so handy that I bought a 16mm square bar of HSS from McJings and made a wider / heftier version for bigger jobs.

rsser
7th September 2007, 09:23 AM
Looks like a deep flute gouge just turned into a shallower flute job. Though it allows you to cut both at the bevel edge and the top of the flute edge; that face is bevelled allowing a progressive push in.

As for the convex bevel, there's pic of this grind on woodcentral I think. When you think about a gouge bevel, all you need is a cutting edge and a fulcrum. Reduce the distance between the two and you'd increase its agility though at the expense perhaps of stability.

With a hollow ground bevel, your edge and fulcrum (bevel heel) remain at the same distance apart and we do of course use this as a way of gauging the cut trajectory.

NeilS
7th September 2007, 12:46 PM
As for the convex bevel, there's pic of this grind on woodcentral I think.

Yes, it's the David Elsworth (Mike Mode) spindle gouge grind on this page.

http://www.woodcentral.com/newforum/grinds.shtml

It reminds me of a similar auger bit profile that is amongst the old tools that have come down through the family...with one you turn the tool and with the other you turn the job...:)

Neil