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reeves
29th September 2007, 07:34 PM
does anyone know an Oz supplier who stocks this stuff?

http://www.recordpower.co.uk/index.pl?p=CWA194&a=i

A pigmented acrylic lacquer designed to give most timbers the look of ebony. The easy to use aerosol gives a smooth, even finish and is touch dry within ten minutes. Often used as a striking finish on bowl rims. http://www.recordpower.co.uk/intricart/product/images/2/CWA194.jpg

i have tried a few sites but no luck any good ebonsing laquer is cool i just wanna try it out on a few things...

TePe
29th September 2007, 08:16 PM
I use Chestnut ebonizing lacquer, don't know if they sell it in your part of the globe though. Good luck in your search.

As a alternative you can use a matt lacquer and black spirit dye mixed. (make sure they are compatible) You may need a few coats to get the depth of colour, and they need to be well rubbed down between each coat. Spray is best but can be brushed on.

Colin Howkins
29th September 2007, 08:52 PM
G'day Reeves,

Put steel wool into a glass or plastic jar, cover it with vinegar, cap on. If you are using a steel lid, wipe the inside of the lid with a bit of vaseline, for ther is a chance the lid will rust onto the jar. Leave it for a few weeks. The vinegar eats away at the steel wool and the whole thing goes black. The higher the ratio of steel wool to vinegar the darker the solution will be

You can then wipe that onto your timber until you get the desired depth of colour.

Let it dry then coat it with clear:2tsup:

Colin Howkins
Graceville Qld

RETIRED
29th September 2007, 10:49 PM
You can get dyes from most paint manufacturers for their lacquers.

Watty Craftsman stains can be mixed into Wattyl NC lacquers as well.

Skew ChiDAMN!!
29th September 2007, 11:05 PM
I just use black printer's ink... mainly 'cos I have a couple of 1kg cans here.


But it can take days to dry. :-

TTIT
29th September 2007, 11:23 PM
does anyone know an Oz supplier who stocks this stuff?

http://www.recordpower.co.uk/index.pl?p=CWA194&a=i

A pigmented acrylic lacquer designed to give most timbers the look of ebony. The easy to use aerosol gives a smooth, even finish and is touch dry within ten minutes. Often used as a striking finish on bowl rims.

i have tried a few sites but no luck any good ebonsing laquer is cool i just wanna try it out on a few things...
Can't help you with a source but I'll be watching for a result. I've seen it mentioned in a couple of magazine articles and it looks to be more controllable than the Feast Watson black stain I use at the moment.

Sebastiaan56
30th September 2007, 10:31 AM
I just use black printer's ink... mainly 'cos I have a couple of 1kg cans here.


But it can take days to dry. :-

Skew,

PM me if you want some solution to knock it back, or go and see a local print shop. It will dry in a day if diluted. How do finishes go over the ink?

Reeves,

I use our sponsors die, worked well for a piece of Jarrah

Sebastiaan

powderpost
30th September 2007, 12:12 PM
I have had some success using a spirit stain straight on the timber. Apply a coat, let it dry, sand back with fine paper. Do this a few times until you are satisfied with the depth of colour. Add some of the spirit stain to the lacquer and spray. More colour, the darker the finish. Cut back with fine paper or 0000 steel wool and spray again. Repeat the spraying until you get the depth of colour you want. Finish off with a clear lacquer coat. It is difficult to be more precise, as it depends on the colour of the timber you start with. Experiment with different pieces of timber.
Cleaning the gun up after is a pain in the butt. Using a 'rubber' after the first spray coat of the coloured lacquer, (like french polishing), also produces very nice results. This system will produce a japanese black lacquer look alike finish. Well it has for me anyway.
Some interesting results can be produced by using other colours than black.
Jim

Skew ChiDAMN!!
30th September 2007, 04:24 PM
PM me if you want some solution to knock it back, or go and see a local print shop. It will dry in a day if diluted. How do finishes go over the ink?

I apply a heavy coat, leave it a few days to dry and then buff off the excess. Much like polishing a pair of shoes, actually. :D Then DO and Shellawax go on quite nicely, which are my main finishes.

However, Estapol and other thinners-type finishes tend to leech the ink out - it's not particularly noticeable at first, but it takes three or four coats before you can handle the piece without getting black-stained hands. :rolleyes:

Thanks for the suggestion and the offer of solution; it's appreciated. I hadn't really given much thought to the matter... but I sourced the ink from my sister a few years ago (she's our local printer) so I'll ask her for the ol' "fambly discount" and save you some postage. :wink:


Mind you, I'm interested in seeing whether Reeves' ebonising lacquer is available here in Oz... wouldn't mind giving it a try, too.

Frank&Earnest
30th September 2007, 04:33 PM
Suggestion to South Australians: do not search for it using keywords "Record Power". It might be painful!:D

reeves
30th September 2007, 05:46 PM
I use Chestnut ebonizing lacquer, don't know if they sell it in your part of the globe though. Good luck in your search.

As a alternative you can use a matt lacquer and black spirit dye mixed. (make sure they are compatible) You may need a few coats to get the depth of colour, and they need to be well rubbed down between each coat. Spray is best but can be brushed on.

yeah thanks Tam doesnt seem to avialable here at all, maybe cos its an aerosol i dunno.

Thanks for other suggestions guys, i will try a few of them, i like the totally homemade ones i have tried some of the Ubeaut dyes but the black one seems to be of has gone missing.

I liked the look of the ebonising laquer as it seems to bring the grain out a bit and be easy to uses but will have to wiat until i can find some..

I have a few test with just matt black automotive paint on some budgeroo, just wiped on with a cloth, looks ok, a bit cheesy and lifeless, dried pretty quick on the lathe tho...

I think maybe using anything for black can cheating a bit but with it hard to get really black woods in australia, some are pretty black but not as black as ebony or african blackwood which are too expensive to consider, staining in some way seems the way to go. At least we can then use simple freindly woods and techniques i guess..

http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56855&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1191134541

some exmaple pics of my finail test here

http://www.woodworkforums.com/showpost.php?p=596950&postcount=26

cheeeeers
john

Barry Hicks
30th September 2007, 06:11 PM
G'day reeves,
I don't think you will be able to buy anything from Record Power in Oz. I own a Record Power lathe and have resigned myself to the fact there are no importers here who now handle their products.

They are happy to do business with you but you have to deal direct. You may have problems bringing aerosol cans through the mail. By 'problems', I mean BIG problems.

Don't be fooled by the fact that Record hand tools are still readily available here. I suspect the dollar exchange rate may be to blame for the demise of the pricier stuff.

Barry Hicks

Frank&Earnest
30th September 2007, 06:23 PM
For the darksiders, here is an old recipe from "French polishing and Enameling", Richard Bitmead, 1910:


***
=Imitation Ebony.=--Take half a gallon of strong vinegar, one pound of extract of logwood, a quarter of a pound of copperas, two ounces of blue, and one ounce of nut-gall. Put these into an iron pot, and boil them over a slow fire till they are well dissolved. When cool, the mixture is ready for use. Add a gill of iron filings steeped in vinegar.

The above makes a perfect jet black, equal to the best black ebony. A very good black is obtained by a solution of sulphate of copper and nitric acid; when dry, the work should have a coat of strong logwood stain.
***

Traditionally, apple and pear timber were deemed to be the best for imitation ebony.




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TTIT
30th September 2007, 08:15 PM
For the darksiders, here is an old recipe from "French polishing and Enameling", Richard Bitmead, 1910:


***
=Imitation Ebony.=--Take half a gallon of strong vinegar, one pound of extract of logwood, a quarter of a pound of copperas, two ounces of blue, and one ounce of nut-gall. Put these into an iron pot, and boil them over a slow fire till they are well dissolved. When cool, the mixture is ready for use. Add a gill of iron filings steeped in vinegar.

The above makes a perfect jet black, equal to the best black ebony. A very good black is obtained by a solution of sulphate of copper and nitric acid; when dry, the work should have a coat of strong logwood stain.
***
Call me ignorant but what the hell is "extract of logwood", "copperas" and a "gill of iron filings". Sounds like ingredients from a witches brew - just needs eye of newt or something to top it off!!!:;:U

Cruzi
30th September 2007, 08:53 PM
The book "175 Finishing Fixes" recommends Indian Ink for making wood black, apparently it does not give you the purple colour black japan can sometimes give. I've used it on a rosewood base for a little clock and very happy with result.

Frank&Earnest
30th September 2007, 10:16 PM
Sounds like ingredients from a witches brew - just needs eye of newt or something to top it off!!!:;:U

That's the fun of the darkside, mwahahaha:D
For the not so dark:

copperas = ferrous sulphate = FeSO4 + 7 H2O

logwood = dye obtained from the heartwood of Haematoxylon Campechianum

gill = 118.3 ml