A few Turnings

[Little Festo]

Benn busy turning a few pieces for my first exhibition, very modest one though. I'm sharing with a friend who's a painter, I get the floor space and he has the walls. He's pretty good so I have to try to match his work quality wise so I have been putting in a bit of extra effort. Here are a few pieces that I have completed so far - although the African Mahogany form needs a few more coats of lacquer. I sprayed it tonight and it certainly has added a bit more snap colour wise.

The photos aren't quite as good as I would like but had to rush some images through.

The mahogany closed form is about 320mm in diameter with a malachite inlay.

The "fluted" Black Wattle form/bowl is approx 450mm in diameter. It will get another coat of lacquer, possibly a bit too glossy at the moment???

The Camphor Laurel platter with the carved rim is approx 450mm in diameter also.

Peter

[lubbing5cherubs]

beautiful just gorgeoes especially the last 2
Toni

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

The Camphour Laurel platter looks great!

The Black Wattle form does look a bit too glossy... it looks like 'twas finished in PolyU. It could be just the lighting in the photo though.

I hope they impress in the exhibition. :thyel:

[ss_11000]

mate: Awesome work:2tsup::clap:

i rekon your mate the painter will need to step his work up to match your stuff:2tsup:

[reeves]

hey really nice peices Pete, great form and balance..

howd ya do the fluting on the BW one, looks like its hand done..

the camphor one is really effective as well..nice piece of wood too..
cheeeeers
john

[rsser]

Marvellous work Peter.

Yeah, the wattle does have a fairly high gloss; it accentuates the flutes ... not a bad thing.

Great rim treatment on the CL. Nice wave effect (perhaps a little pronounced? Maybe that's the light.).

[Caveman]

Hey Peter - as above - beautiful work as usual:2tsup:.
That CL platter is fantastic - workmanship and the timber itself - really lovely piece.

Thanks for sharing.
Hope the exhibition goes well - sure it will with pieces like that.

[BernieP]

G'Day Peter

Always nice to see different forms and ideas, gives us learners something to strive towards, thanks for sharing and good luck at the show.

Cheers
Bernie

[Baz]

Peter, beautiful work as usual.
Cheers
Barry

[Hardenfast]

More than a little fascinating, Pete. Like Reeves (John) I would be most interested to learn a little more about your "fluting" techniques when you have time.

Serious congrats. Being an exhibition I assume the pieces will be for sale? Best of luck with that. Let us know how it goes.

Wayne

[TTIT]

All of them are excellent examples of your work :2tsup:. Always makes me re-assess the standard of my own work :B Great stuff Peter,

[Harry72]

:surprise::wtg:

[Gil Jones]

Peter,
I like them all!!!!!!!!:2tsup:
Exceptionally well done.

[Little Festo]

More than a little fascinating, Pete. Like Reeves (John) I would be most interested to learn a little more about your "fluting" techniques when you have time.

Wayne

Wayne re the fluting.

Firstly it's important not to go too thin with the walls, need to decide how 'deep" the flutes need to be, allow an extra 3-5 mm extra. I then mark out the flutes using the indexing, then draw them in. I usually mark out with 36 divisions (I have a Vermec indexer). I like to use a flute width of 2 sections allowing me to have a centre for the "depth" and two borders for the edge of the flute.

Next it can be useful to "set the depth" with a router, not totally necessary but a good way to get the depth of the flutes consistent.

next I use a Arbortech mini grinder to rough out the shape trying not to get too many "gouges", could use the "mini sanding disks", for the arbortech, if you are not too steady with the normal cutter or the cutter first then clean up with the sander. Remember to leave the out sidelines keep within the shape of th flutes, don't remove too much but be judicious as the more accurate you are the less time will be spent sanding. I spend more time on the sanding process then on anything else.

Next I use a drum sander to smooth it out, 60-80 grit. You could try working through the grits if you manage to get a nice even flow to the flute but my drum sanding technique is not good enough as I still manage to get a interupted "flow" in the flute. I use 80 grit an use long strokes to get a smooth surface/flow to the flute then work my way through the grits. The drum sanding saves time but before I got mine I just used 50/60 grit and did it by hand, amazing how much material you can remove, skin too. It can be a good work out

Sometimes I find that I can use the drum sander down through the grits - on straight flutes the clean up with 180 and so on.

You find that you can sand down to the marked out "guide lines" on the edges of the flutes.

Hope this is of some help - please ask if anything is unclear.

Peter

[ptc]

Great looking forms as always.
Hope exhibition goes well for you

[WOODbTURNER]

Pete,
Great stuff!! Have you used the Gmelina from Humpty Doo yet? Be good to see how you use it.
Cheers
Jeff

[Little Festo]

Pete,
Great stuff!! Have you used the Gmelina from Humpty Doo yet? Be good to see how you use it.
Cheers
Jeff

Hello Jeff, made a small carved bowl the other week with Humpty Doo Gmelina, will post soon. Going to Turnfest??? How's the "old guy' (Ian) going?? Miss his coffees, bikkies and sawdust.

Peter

[WOODbTURNER]

Pete,
The three of us are Turnfest bound again. (I think our better halfs are glad to get rid of us) See you there.
Saw IMac last week when I dropped off some 500mm dia yellow flame tree crotches and logs which looked good as does IMac.
Jeff