yet an other MC1100 thread

[killerbeast]

i´m new to this forum (and woodturing)

I´m the happy new owner of an mc1100 lathe. Having read through all the posts i could find on this lathe i´m still somewhat confused as to what to do i regards to modifications. i have some of the same issues as most others have had with the late.
Sliding tailstock, head and tailstock don't line up completely when the headstock is tightened.

i need to change the belt because it is frayed, and make modifications to the wheels.

now what i would be eternally great full for was some pictures/short video clips of what to do where. what to grind, witch bolts to replace and how to change the belt and make the varispeed run smoothly..

I will gather all the info i get, and do pic/video of tha work i do on my own for everyone else and post it on my site with creds.

Hope somebody has the time to help with this :U would like to get going... do turning not machine fitting :rolleyes:
Rasmus
http://www.killerbeast.dk/wordpress/

[TTIT]

Just start turning Rasmus and fix any problems you find when they interfere with what you're doing - up until then they're not really problems :shrug: The mods I made to my MC when I had it were an evolution over about 3 years and you'll find fixes for all of them here as you need them. More important just to keep turnin'!!!:U

[killerbeast]

Hehe I plan to turn like a mad man (biggrin) but already i can se that need to change the belt very soon and not being the great metalworkdude i was fishing for som pic/vid of how to get the thing changed.

Rasmus

[hughie]

Rasmus,

Do a search of the forum this topic has been covered quite well along with tips and pics. As to the head stock and tailstock problem :U welcome to the imperfections that make the MC1100 what it is... none of the MC1100's line up. :C :U

If your really concerned nudge the headstock around to line it up generally it gets there.

Other than that welcome aboard. :2tsup:

[arose62]

Did you see this thread?

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=19425

Cheers,
Andrew

[killerbeast]

hmmm well if that´s the case i think it´s time to call the troops and more reinforcements:U i know an Mecanical Engenier manby this i something for him...

ihave searched and read the lot on the site, but the long explenatins just dosent seem to give any meaning..

But thanks to all for the replys.

Ill post what i get and make here... i hope to get or make a video of the beltchange part. and pics og what to grind where. just to make it more easy for other new MC owners.

Rasmus

www.killerbeast.dk/wordpress

[Tornatus]

G'day Rasmus

If you've done a search of this site, you've probably found most of the collective wisdom on this family of lathes, but as a generally satisfied MC900 owner I should emphasize the two points I have found to be the most critical:

You MUST fully lubricate the shafts on which the split Reeves pulleys move, preferably before you use the lathe intensively. I have found a lubricant called INOX to be the most effective; it is marine-grade and not based on petro-chemical nasties (I don't know if it is available in Europe). If the shafts are properly lubricated, you should be able to move the variable speed control lever with one finger when the motor is running. (I am assuming that you know that you should NEVER change speed unless the motor is running, and that you should ALWAYS return the lever to the lowest speed setting before switching off.)
When changing belts or carrying out other maintenance, be very careful in your handling of the pulleys - unless quality control has improved on more recent MC models, the pulleys tend to be rather low-grade aluminium castings, and are easily broken by rough treatment. If you feel confident enough, you can carefully disassemble the drive mechanism and remove the pulleys from their shafts - you will find it helpful to polish the conical inner faces of the pulleys (wet&dry sandpaper, then finish with metal polish) as it will allow the belt to run much smoother and will greatly reduce wear.I think you will find, as others have suggested, that the best approach is to begin using your lathe (after lubrication!) and deal with problems if and when they arise, rather than try and anticipate everything that might go wrong. But if you are stuck on a problem, don't hesitate to raise it on this forum, as I am confident someone will quickly come to your rescue.

Remember, there are no stupid questions on this forum, but the answers can be weird as well as wonderful! :roll:

[killerbeast]

Tornatus :

Inox isn´t avilable in Denmark. but i will find some other god substitute mabye some teflon based spray or what ?

Ramsus

http://www.killerbeast.dk/wordpress/ -- Comming soon www.woodturning.dk

[Tornatus]

Tornatus :

Inox isn´t avilable in Denmark. but i will find some other god substitute mabye some teflon based spray or what ?

Ramsus

Just be careful not to use anything that might affect the wood you are working with - for instance, silicon-based spray lubricants are not suitable around woodworking equipment, as silicon on wood can badly affect its working quality. But as long as you restrict the lubricant to the pulley-shaft area, you should be OK.

Any good quality machine lubricant should be suitable, as long as it leaves a persistent film on the metal - we have a product here called WD40, which is a very effective water-repelling, penetrating spray lubricant, but its effects do not last because it evaporates very quickly.

[killerbeast]

Just be careful not to use anything that might affect the wood you are working with - for instance, silicon-based spray lubricants are not suitable around woodworking equipment, as silicon on wood can badly affect its working quality. But as long as you restrict the lubricant to the pulley-shaft area, you should be OK.

Any good quality machine lubricant should be suitable, as long as it leaves a persistent film on the metal - we have a product here called WD40, which is a very effective water-repelling, penetrating spray lubricant, but its effects do not last because it evaporates very quickly.

got loads of WD40 but thats a grease based lube and i think it would grime up with dust pretty fast... I think i wil try the teflon stuff and be carefull with it..

Rasmus

Now working ... http://www.woodturning.dk

[hughie]

Rasmus,
As to llubricant, try and find a dry type. Any lube that remains wet or tacky will trap wood dust and eventually need cleaning. WD40 will do but it will need to resprayed fairly regularily. With the dry I only ever did it once in 12 months and it looked fine when I last pulled it down. No dust build up at all

I use a spray on solvent based Moly lubricant.Let it dry and then reassemble.

All the major lube manufacturers have an equivelent or something similar

[killerbeast]

Will try. Im hoping to get it done this weekend. I just took of the hood and my drive belt is pretty banged up. so ill get a replacement tomorrow and jump in to the change.. will try to document with pics and vids.

Rasmus - www.woodturning.dk

[killerbeast]

been having lots of problems with my turning since i got my mc1100. things i could do at the classes i attend just wouldent work at home mumble mumble and the catches and so on.... But having taken a look at my toolrest i think i know why. Tha thing was skarred and dented.. så i went to my local tool pusher and got this very very nice set . Happy happy joy http://www.traedrejerbutikken.dk/image.php?img=files/products/jernholdere%20alle%5B2%5D.jpgand the price was realy nice to 550 Danish kr.

Just had to show and tell.... i will post better pics when i get around to it

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Good score!

But don't throw your old rest away; just flatten the top with a file.

You can never have enough rests and there will be times when you want to get the supporting edge of the rest closer to the work than those round bars will allow... then you'll be thankful you kept the old one. :wink:

[killerbeast]

Wasent planing on throwing the old one away ... im accually not that good at throwing things away.. but the one that came with the lathe is really poor quality and realy soft..

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Believe it or not but that's actually a good thing, especially for beginners.

Sure, they nick easily but they're also easy to clean up and as your tool handling improves it becomes way less of a problem.

Mosts dings come from catches (usually from badly presented tools) and if the steel was harder it'd either doing equal damage to your tool steel or, worse, the rest could break...

[killerbeast]

Thanks for the advice ... hadent thougt about it that way

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

I'd very happily swap my soft tool rest for your new ones just the same! :U

[killerbeast]

I bet :U i think it´s a good price 550 dkr (120 AUD) seeing that woodworking tools are VERY expensive in denmark.. . . Chucks are around 500 (AUD) for a supernova2 ....