Cutting pearl shell

[Ric Fallu]

For some time I have been cutting and grinding pearl shell (and sometimes abalone) blanks for inlay into wooden spear guns. For the first steps, I have been using hand saws (coping, fret, jewellers, etc), and a big problem has been holding the irregularly shaped shell whilst I slowly cut it. Most often I have been using wood saw blades, and they seem to do OK on the inner horny part of the shell (the bit with the nacre) but don't seem to like the harder, more mineralised outer parts of the shell, but results have been adequate.

The aroma that arises from cutting the shell is very similar to that noticed in the dentist when they are drilling (I thought that piece of information might be of interest)

Anyway, I walked into the workshop at work the other day to see a bright and shiny scroll saw affixed to the bench. Whoopee! Now I can concentrate on holding the work piece, not the saw.

Does anybody out there have experience with cutting pearl shell (or abalone) and can they advise me of the best blades, teeth number and speeds?

Similarly, there are some metal parts on speargun (in particular, trigger guards) that I make from stainless (316) about 3 mm thick. I was pondering using the scroll saw to fashion trigger guards with fancy shapes (maybe to resemble forged trigger guards in antique hand guns). Any advice on what blades I might use, where to get them, how fast to run the saw, and possible uses of lubricants (elephant snot) ?

[AlexS]

Ric,
You can buy metal cutting scrollsaw blades, but I don't know how they'd go on stainless - suck it & see I guess.

For cutting pearl shell, I'd suggest you get the finest blades you can - the more teeth actually in the shell the better. Also, be sure to wear your dust mask when cutting shell - good idea at any time, but important with shell.

[alf t]

Ric,
You can buy shell already cut and laminated in various colours. It is a NZ product and comes in sheets about 180mmx150mm.
It is made from paua shell and I use it for inlays. It is about .5mm thick.
I get mine from Elaine Wakka at wyurrifolkart.com . I'm sure if you email her after checking out her website she will give you a NZ address to contact. It will save you hours and look great.
Alf

[Ric Fallu]

Thanks for info.

There might be better ways to deal with the stainless. I can imagine jewelers blades breaking every ten seconds or so.

Cutting pearl shell - I have heard that shell dust is not good for you (as with any dust). The problem is not so much during the cutting, but during the grinding to flatten it. I use a respirator.

I have seen the laminated flat sheets of paua (and other products) in Rare Woods in Melbourne I think. Seemed expensive, but looked convenient to use (its flat for a start!)

I try for some sort of regional authenticity with my spear guns. Each is a little different. Currently, I live in Darwin, I thought that pearl shell was the way to go. I occasionally find shell when I am diving, so its free too. Pearl looks really good against the red of jarrah (or better still, the local iron wood) I had thought of building a gun called the "long white cloud" out of rimu and paua, but that is in the future.

One of the problems with natural shells is that they oxidise. Pearl seems very durable, and I have shell a decade old that still has all its nacre. Some of the abalone shell I have seems to lose its shine after two or three years. I am told that if you varnish over it, it will last longer.

All comment/info welcome.

Ric

[barnsey]

Ric,

Stainless goes hard if you don't cut it efficiently (work hardens) I would have thought a band saw with the right metal cutting blade would be a better option.

Jamie

[oges]

I have cut Tagua nut slices fairly easily with a regular scroll blade, but it is quite tough to break it. The nut is white or can turned a brownish colour when boiled in oil, but im guessing you are using the shell for the colours it has so the tagua wouldnt be suitable.

I can only suggest using a metal cutting blade and see how that hold up to the shell.

[Ric Fallu]

Thanks for info so far.

I seem to be getting the message that I ought try to source fine toothed metal cutting blades. I didn't see any in Bunnings. The saw in question uses pinned blades. In another thread an address was given for Mikes Flying Dutchman blades. Are there any sources closer to home?

Ric

[oges]

I usually get mine from Neil Schulz in Adelaide who gets them from the flying dutchman guy. He mainly gets reverse pinless blades though I believe.

In the aussie woodworker there is an advertisement for people selling german scrollsaw blades, they may sell the pinned blades you are after. Speaking of which, anyone know when the November issue comes out? its the 11th and still not in the newsagents here.

There is a place in gosford here on the central coast who sell a range of pinned blades I have seen (better then bunnings), but thats a bit away from you.

Hope this helps.

[fxst]

Ric u could try to get an adapter to take pinless blades ( a better option) depending on the machine
I know the gmc and sherwood have that option
the yank guy is fast and I usually get my blades within 10 days
Pete