PDA

View Full Version : Bowl Finishes



Matto
15th November 2003, 09:47 AM
Hi folks,

I have recently aquired a number of small slabs of redgum, which I have commenced cutting into circles and making into platters. I have experimented with decorating the flat rim with a wire brush in a drill (while the lathe is spinning) which produces a very rough textured surface (I also stained it black with vinegar/rusty nails solution). I tried using my trusty Shellawax cream and found that the rough surface caused the wax to fill the cracks and leave a whitish finish over the surface, which I couldn't remove with the toothbrush I usually use for this purpose. In the end I used metho or turps (I can't remember which one - the one recommended on the Shellawax info sheet) and ended up with a light grey finish that actually looked OK but wasn't the effect I was after.
My question is, will the liquid Shellawax solve this problem or will I still end up with white/grey marks over the rough surface. I really don't want to use Danish oil or a similar finish as I find it darkens the wood too much and the figured grain doesn't come out as well as the wax finish. Will the liquid Shellawax darken the wood at all?
Any advice that anyone can offer would be gratefully appreciated.

Cheers,

Matto

Alex
16th November 2003, 01:28 AM
I was thinking about same procedure and was worried about that what happened to you. So I don't know answer but desperately waiting for Neil to give you a good answer. I think that shelawax liquid would be a good answer. Just think. I'm not sure.

By the way - thanks for the reply about MDF turning

Alex

JackoH
17th November 2003, 09:12 AM
Sic 'em Neil:D

Cliff Rogers
19th November 2003, 11:14 PM
G'day.

I have trouble with the shelawax liquid 'cos it seems to set way too fast for me. (slow worker, sip, next....)
Keep it for small spindle work.

Try applying the Shellawax Cream by working it in with a brush with the lathe stopped as you would cleaning your shoes with nugget.

Use a clean brush to buff it off, as you would with your shoes.

Then buff it with a rag, lathe still stopped, again, as you would with your shoes.

BTW, this only works if you learned how to clean your shoes the old fashioned way.

If you want a higher polish, after you have finished the process above, remove the item from the lathe & work it over a rotary buff like one of Neils' 'swan's down' buffs.
Make sure you have removed any buildups & pockets of the cream first or you will get a shiny spot at or around that point.

Hope that helps.

Now, the way I'd do it with Redgum is NOT touch it with the rusty nail smelly mess in the first place & then use a setting oil applied by painting it on with a brush IE, Rustins or Penetrol.

One other way that I've seen is Adeze Clear Floor Sealer thinned by adding 25% Adeze Thinners & painted on with a brush.
Your need to put a couple of coats on & wear a good chemical mask in a well ventilated space. (It smells like fingernail polish remover for about a fortnight)

JackoH
20th November 2003, 08:38 AM
See my post - above!
:rolleyes: :D

Cliff Rogers
20th November 2003, 10:35 PM
G'day.

I read the facts sheet & Neil's book.

Why don't you fellas that are waiting for the big bite chip in a proper reply?

Grab the book & read the bit on carving.

There's not a lot of difference between the rough surface of a carving & a poc marked redgum bowl.

Go for it, give it your best shot or bite your tongue off.

I'll have my book back Monday, (left it in the shed),
I'll get the page number for you if you like.

ubeaut
20th November 2003, 11:15 PM
Been waiting in the wings to see what solutions others came up with.

Personally I would try using the Shellawax (liquid) or Shellawax Glow on anything that had a rough surface. Even better still I might consider using a couple of weak coats of white shellac then fine sand and use Traditional Wax.

An even better deal might be Rustins or Watco Danish oil or even Organoil, it depends on the final finish you are aiming for. Personally if it's redgum I wouldn't touch it with a forty foot pole. I reckon it should be left as house stumps, fence posts and fire wood, but that is just one of my little quirks. I just don't like to work with it.

On the other hand Doorstop works with it all the time and can bring up a brilliant finish with Shellawax on almost all types of surface rough and smooth. Maybe he would stop biting down and use what's left of his swollen tongue to tell us how he does it. http://www.ubeaut.biz/zonked.gif Even better still he could let his fingers do the talking for him..... and not these ones - http://www.ubeaut.biz/FLIPA.gif

Hope this is of some help.

Cheers - Neil http://www.ubeaut.biz/wave.gif

This might also be of some help http://www.ubeaut.com.au/swinfo.htm

Alex
20th November 2003, 11:39 PM
Ha, ha, haaaaaaa

JackoH
21st November 2003, 08:37 AM
I'm going off into the corner to sulk!..

http://www.ubeaut.biz/sulkoff.gif

JackoH
21st November 2003, 05:00 PM
I luv you Doorstop! I thought Neil had finally gone nuts. I feel vindicated, (whatever that means) and shall now stop sulking. Friction, Heat and Shellawax=SHINE!!!!
http://www.ubeaut.biz/group.gif

ubeaut
22nd November 2003, 05:02 PM
I said what I meant. I would try the Shellawax (liquid) or Shellawax Glow on a rough surface.

Don't go putting words into my posts that aren't there. Struth!

What I was trying to get across is that Shellawax Cream isn't the right one for the particular application mentioned by Matto.

Cliff don't take any notice of Doorstop. Read the disclaimer at the bottom of his post. With your application you may find you get an even better finish if you mix some of the Shellawax (liquid) with the cream to give you more working time. It can be mixed at any rate you wish even as high as 10 parts liquid to 1 part cream.

Don't be afraid to experiment.

By the way as I said before there are other alternatives. And as Doorstop rightly says Shellawax isn't the be all and end all. If it was I would be rich and retired by now and there would be no other finishes on the market.

Cheers - Neil http://www.ubeaut.biz/wave.gif

Cliff Rogers
24th November 2003, 02:11 PM
G'day.

I'm back from the shed, book in hand... (shed is 99Kms away so I only visit it on weekends.)

Bottom of page 122 & top of page 123.

If you own the book, check it out, if you don't, you'll have to take my word for it.

I didn't quote it word for word but I was fairly bloody close. :D

The bit it didn't mention that I did was the Swansdown Mop...
http://www.ubeaut.com.au/sdmops.htm

If you check my original post I also said that it wasn't how I'd do it & I put forward my preffered method.
The third method I put forward is used by a Pro turner who does a lot of work in redgum burl & he is NOT looking for a gloss finish.

I look forward to hearing any opinions on how others WOULD do it rather than any obnoxious opinions about how they WOULDN'T do it. (although I note that the obnoxious opinions seem to have been deleted :rolleyes: )

mikev
1st December 2003, 03:57 PM
Just reading and observing. To me if you have a white wax residue left in a rough surface my suggestion would be to use a hair drier or hot air gun lightly to melt it in. Hope this is on the right track.

JackoH
1st December 2003, 05:21 PM
Wax etc can be removed from splits and cracks quite successfully with a compressor.
I have a small Bunnies type cost about $150 which does the job admirably.
Also blows up the tyres on my Jeep and over the last couple of years has done everything else asked of it.
After the lathe and bandsaw probably the most useful machine in my shed.
http://www.ubeaut.biz/smiledunny.gif

jhunt_2000
1st December 2003, 10:35 PM
Hi guys, computer's been down for two weeks so I just read this post. Ubueat, I'm astonished to hear you say you don't like Redgum. I salvage bits from my sister's woodpile whenever I go to S.A. and I love it. The colour is just so amazing that I can not imagine anyone not liking it. I have yet to buy any shellawax but am keen to try it. Sounds like a good product and everyone else likes it. As far as Redgum goes I turned a piece recently for mother-in-law, who is unstereotypically really nice, and found it full of through and through cracks. Decided to try something I read here; stupidglue, I mean superglue. I spent two weeks meticulously filling in cracks before finally trimming the excess glue on the lathe, sanding it back through the grades to 400, which seems to be the finest sandpaper I can find despite living just around the corner from a reputable woodturning supplier whose name I won't mention. Then I hit it with beeswax on high speed and kept sanding. Did that about six times before I was happy but when I was it looked darn good. I'll post some pics when I get it back for a day. But thats one method for smooth wood. Like the brush, brush, rag method from Cliff too. I have used something similar with good results and it's probably what I'd use on your piece Matto. Good luck. So that's my say plus a big thank you to all who have mentioned superglue in their posts. Mother-in-law's response; " Did you make that???" Evident astonishment. Thanx Guys.

Cliff Rogers
1st December 2003, 11:32 PM
Originally posted by John Hambly
.......

http://www.ubeaut.biz/smiledunny.gif +

G'day.

I got a laugh out of that smiley..... :p

I've noticed that this topic has been viewed more that 150 times since last Monday arvo and, til today, no one has touched the subject.

Another trick you can use that compressed air for is to help stop surface cracks when you are sanding cranky end grain.
Direct the airflow at the point of contact between the sandpaper & the job. It makes a fair bit of noise but it keeps the job cool & the grit of the paper doesn't clog as fast. If your compressed air isn't dry, the results are unpredictable to say the least, depending on the timber & the grade of paper you can end up with marks on you job and/or clogged paper.