Warping sheoak

[Barry Hicks]

Some months ago I was given a green sheoak log about 500mm thick. I cut it into manageable size blocks and rough turned some bowls.

As the log had huge cracks in the ends, I got the message that I had to slow down the drying rate so I put the green bowls into sealed plastic bags.

After a few days, I checked the bowls and they had grown white whiskers so I put them in cardboard boxes packed in shavings.

A couple of days ago, I dug the bowls out of the shavings and they had all warped out of shape. Even the recesses cut for the chuck jaws are now egg shaped. One bowl chosen at random, measured 215x250mm. The only good news is that there are no cracks.

Anyone had similar experience with sheoak?

[dai sensei]

I too have found shavings the best for Sheoak. As for moving, my Sheoak has been pretty stable, but I have had plenty of other timbers that turn to ovals. I always allow plenty of meat in the walls to allow for finishing. Alternatively, finish turn and let them warp.

[orraloon]

Sheoak is the worst timber for warping I have so far had a go
with:~. I did the microwave thing and it still warped. The shavings thing the same. I have 3 bowls where the foot recess is too twisted to get back on the chuck. I will rework them when I get in the mood as it is a great looking timber. My only success with it is when it is mostly dry and stable. Just be patient and let it dry. Cut most of the light sapwood off and seal the ends and come back in a year or so. Well that is my 2c worth!

Regards
John

[artme]

Warping Sheoak! is there any other kind?
Serioslythough I lifted some Casuarina pieces from the tip( naughty ). They were about 600 long and 150 in diam.Luckily they hadn't begun to split. I took them home and left them submerged in water for about 3 months. Too them out and left them to dry in the shade for a further 6mths.
All pieces developed a single split that aided me in cutting them.
The wood turned beautifully and finished beautifully. No warping. I don't know exactly what Cassuarins it is. It has fine medullary rays but not the flashiness of hairy oak.

[rsser]

Sounds like a good save Barry.

With green rough turning these days I just assume they'll go pear shaped and leave a tenon on the inside that will be gripped by the VM shark jaws when dry to turn a recess or tenon at the foot. If it's too deep for those jaws I'll cut a groove in the wall for the biggest expanding jaws in the kit - Titan Supergrips or VM multi-purpose jaws.

[groverwa]

I try to cut sheoak - C Fraserana - on the quarter but at times you have to backsaw it and it will do all sorts of things

The pics show what I do with all my wood - green or "dry" to let the moisture get down to air dry. The green roughed out bowls are placed in banana boxes and placed out of the weather while the "dry" bowls are weighed on electronic scales, marked and left on the shelf to dry further

The platter shown was cut about 3 yrs ago

Mike

[Barry Hicks]

Thanks for the words of wisdom guys. I am currently trying the diluted dish washing detergent bath trick on a couple.

They have been soaking for three days but have only partially returned to their original shape but with a little luck, there may be enough wall thickness to eventually get them back on the lathe and finish them.