Wooden scraper

[Rocker]

The current issue of Fine woodworking has an article on making a wooden cabinet scraper. Since I had some offcuts of rock maple, I decided to use them to make one. I have to say that I was not particularly impressed with the results I got from the finished tool, despite going to some trouble to sharpen and burnish the scraper blade in the approved manner. Notwithstanding the promise that the tool could tame the most difficult woods, I found that I could get much better results using a well tuned plane.

I wonder if anyone else has had real success with one of these tools.

[AlexS]

I've never used one in a holder like the magazine shows, but a sharp cabinet scraper does a beeuuutiful job.

I noticed in the article that they ground the scraper edge at 45 deg. Never seen that before, but that doesn't mean much. I've always used the scraper with a square edge and a burr on either side.

[derekcohen]

Rocker

I have not yet read the latest FWW mag so cannot comment on the design or article therein, but I do have a fair experience with scrapers.

Their use is primarily for smoothing hardwoods (don't even try them on softwoods) that tear out with handplanes. I agree with you - they do not produce as good a finish as a handplane. Typically, they produce a matt finish compared to the gloss finish of a good handplane. However, on hardwoods with difficult grain, they may be the only method of smoothing (other than sanding - which simply does not leave anything like a well planed surface can).

I have a Stanley #112 (with LN blade). This is great for smoothing down large panels, such as a table top. It has a variable angle blade which can be set for gossamer thin shavings.

I have a couple of Stanley #80s. These have a fixed angle blade and a smaller footprint. They are easier to use than the #112, and can produce a wonderfully fine shaving. I also keep one for removal of glue lines. I make replacement blades from old circular saw blades - call it divine retribution!

Card scrapers are wonderful, simple tools. These are the scrapers most woodworkers use. I find them most useful to scrape small areas/blemishes.

Smoothing planes such made by HNT Gordon (with a 60 degree blade angle) will do a super job on difficult hardwoods. Great smoothers can negate the use of scrapers. (Note - The HNT Gordon can reverse its blade and be used as a scraper - works wonderfully).

The secret to scraper use is correct burnishing of the blade. Thin hand scrapers need to be filed square and flat. Use the Veritas Variable Burnisher to save a lot of grief. Thicker blades, such as in the #112 or #12 (smaller version) have a 45 degree bevel edge and are just sharpened like a plane.

I would not feel that my tool box was complete without scrapers.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Rocker]

Thanks for these replies. I was hoping, when I posted this thread, to provoke an erudite response from Derek, and I was not disappointed:) I believe you have explained why my scraper does not work particularly well - it uses a 45 degree bevel on a thin, flexible scraper blade, rather than the usual 90 degree edge with burnished hooks which is usual for this type of blade. I am inclined to think that these card scrapers are best used freehand, without any holder. I think that the #80 scraper plane or the new Veritas scraper plane would be ergonomically much more efficient than the wooden scraper described in the FW article, if you want to use a thicker scraper blade in a holder.

[derekcohen]

Rocker

Yeah, a 45 degree angle on a thin blade will not last long (blunts quickly) and is unlikely to cut correctly. The burnished scraper blade works because it has a raised burr that acts as a mini-plane. When sharpened correctly, it should scrape/plane shavings. It not, it just raises dust! The Veritas Variable Burnisher is named so because it can burnish the blade at different angles, which can produce more/less aggressive cutting.

The advantage of using a card scraper freehand is that you effectively have a variable angle scraper at your disposal. The down side is that they generate a lot of heat (through friction) and burn the fingers. The other issue is that the degree of cut is determined by the degree of bend. That is why the #80 cuts more deeply when you tighten the central screw - it bends the blade more (or less, if you release it). Try doing this for a lengthy period with a card scraper and you either develop fingers like sausages or end up using a jig, like the Veritas holder.

I have read good reviews of the Veritas #80 equiv. It has a larger footsprint (i.e. base) than the Stanley. But I have had very good results from the Stanley. I recently bought one from a flea market for $20 (minus a blade).

I'm looking forward to seeing the FWW article to see what all the fuss is about.

As I recall, you have some nice LN or Veritas planes. They generally work well on difficult grains. But you do need to add scrapers to your toolbox - our Ozzie hardwoods are a different kettle of fish to much of the timber used in USA or Europe.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Rocker]

Derek,
Thanks again. Lee Valley have a picture in their catalogue of their new scraping plane beside the #112; the Veritas plane has a slightly larger footprint and also a knob to bow the blade, which is of high-carbon steel and 1.4 mm thick, compared to the 0.75 mm thick blade of a normal card scraper. They grind the edge of their blade at 45 degrees, but presumably the extra thickness helps to make that angle effective. I would love to get one of the Veritas planes, but don't really feel I would have sufficient use for it to justify the US$129 price, excluding freight.

[derekcohen]

Rocker

Since when do you have to justify another tool purchase!! Of course you MUST get the scraper plane.

Seriously, I've heared very good reports about the Veritas. The options are a LN #112 at $210 (USD) or about the same (or more!) for a vintage Stanley #112 (which they stopped making about 100 years ago!). I paid about $200 (USD) for mine on eBay some years ago. By comparison the Veritas is good value.

But I would get a Stanley #80 to begin with. They are still available new and locally for $50 (AUD).

Kind regards

Derek

[paulver]

Rocker / Derek,

Sorry to come across as completely dumb, but I've been wondering lately what the actual purpose of scrapers and burnishers is.

In Dereks reply he mentions the smoothing of hardwoods etc. I have a scraper blade which I use for smoothing out repairs to my snow skis when I unfortunately hit a rock. I guess the concept is the same for wood work, but what circumstances dictate their use over a plane or sanding? Is it because they have a wider blade area so would in effect give a more level finish? Do they give a better finish than sanding? Or is it a case of different tools for different jobs?

From bits and pieces I've read, the burnisher is used for sharpening a scraper blade?

Am I on the right track or totally off?

Thanks.

Paul.

[derekcohen]

Paul

All good questions.

Firstly, timber that is correctly hand planed is likely to produce a better finish than sanding. However this is not always possible. The very best finish I have achieved has been planing pine with a sharp low angle block plane. The finish is so glassy smooth that you would swear it was varnished! This is possible because pine is a very predictable soft timber with long straight grain and poses no challenge to a blade. Cut at a low angle, the blade slices very cleanly through the timber strands.

However timber such as Jarrah and Karri are renouned for being difficult to plane. Their grain is short, unpredictable and often reverses on itself. When you plane this it often leads to tear out. The lower the blade angle you attempt to use, the greater the tear out. The standard angle on smoother planes is 45 degrees. This is great for pine but poor for jarrah. Timber such as jarrah responds better to a blade at a high effective angle, hence the 60 degrees of Australian-made planes such as HNT Gordon. These have less of a cutting/slicing action and more of a cutting/scraping action.

Sometimes even these planes are unable to prevent tear out. So you need to raise the blade angle even more. As you pass through the vertical, so the plane becomes a scraper. I have a few planes that are actually "scraper planes", such as the Stanley #112. There are many types of scrapers, the one that you have referred to being a hand held "card scraper". Typically you will push or pull it at about 110 - 135 degrees.

I tend to go to scrapers when I get tear out with planes. I will go to sandpaper when the scrapers do not work or when the shape does not permit them.

It is possible to get a fine finish with sandpaper, but to get equivalence with a plane you need to go very high in the grits, 1200 W&D and above. Sandpaper leaves minute scratches on the surface of the timber which obscure the grain (relative to planing - before anyone hurls hot tar at me). Scrapers leave a matt finish on the timber compared to a handplaned surface, which can be glossy if done correctly.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[paulver]

Thanks for the education Derek.

Like the help that Rocker gave me in regard to router bits awhile back, I'm always learning something new that makes a task a bit easier or will give me a better result in the end.

Regards.

Paul.