Depth Stop for SCMS

[John G]

I have recently made a depth stop for my pos Ryobi SCMS.

I looked at the depth stop mechanism on several more expensive machines, and decided to use this version, for maximum rigidity.

It's just made from 4 pieces of steel: 16mm square rod and a 4mm strip. The holes match the tapped holes in the body of the SCMS. I used metric threads as the only long threaded bolts I could find (for the height adjustment bolt) were metric.

I've used it for basic lap joints and it works great. Yeah, yeah, I wouldn't use it for fine furniture, but it's great for basic framing. When making full cuts, you just move the strip to the side to allow the adjustment bolt to drop into the clearance hole. That way you don't have to wind the bolt all the way up for one cut.

Total cost was about $15 for the bolts and metric tap.

Hopefully the picture will work...

[KBnLink]

Great idea!!

I've just finished a large fence where I had about 40 lap joints at the top of the fence posts - this would have been a huge time saver! Any chance you could post another photo from side on - I have the same saw and will be adding this as soon as possible.

[John G]

I don't have a new photo, but I have a close up from one of the above originals.

One problem I'm getting is that the adjustment bolt can loosen if you don't do it up tight. I may need to figure out a better way of locking it... But other than that it works great - lap joints for fences is exactly the sort of thing it's good for.

I also need to find a way of cleaning out the sliding rail - it's sticking something shocking now, and I want to figure out how to disassamble and clean it out. If anyone has any tips please let me know.

John.

[tyrone]

try putting a second nut on the bolt to help stop it from moving. Like on a drill press depth stop

[arose62]

Can't you get nuts which have a plastic insert to stop them moving under vibration?

Called "Nyloc", and maybe other names.

<off for a quick google>

Wow, they even come in colours now, so you could match your blue depth stop.

http://www.powers-international.com/e-inter/e-take/e-calornut.htm


Cheers,
Andrew

[texas]

1). Tack weld the nut to the square tube and use a second nut as a lock nut; or
2). Tap the square tube, use one nut as lock nut.

[John G]

Texas, the square section (solid, not tube) is tapped, and so the second bolt does lock it, (just like drill presses).

But the vibration of the saw eventually loosens the nut if you don't keep retightening it.

Andrew, I thought Nyloc was only good if you tightened them once - if you keep untightening them then you lose the locking ability. But I might try find some M6 nuts and give it a go.

Otherwise, I think I'll just get a butterfly nut, will probably need to retap it to what I need, then I can do it up tight.

I'll let you know what I come up with.
John.

[texas]

A Nylock nut may be a pain because you may not be able to run the depth screw (ie make big adjustments) up and down quickly with your fingers. Sorry for asking the obvious but have you tried a spring washer? Alternatively you may be able to bronze a 'lever' onto the existing locknut. I'm interested because I have the same SCMS and will soon need to make a depth guage.

Cheers, Texas_Tim

[Wayne Davy]

Great job John!! I have the same saw and you have just given me my next shop project

[Barry_White]

Me too John I have the same.

How about a second ordinary nut to lock the lock nut.

[arose62]

How about an alternative approach:

instead of just a swivelling cover for the hole, you could have a stack of shims, and just swivel out the required number, instead of adjusting the bolt.

Or, have various spacers ...

You could set up a few standard calibrated depths, and only adjust the bolt when needed.

Cheers,
Andrew

[Sigidi]

bloody fantastic, just bloody fantastic!!!

I too have the same saw.

I noticed this post is a little old, how are things going with coming up with a proper fixing method for the depth screw? Maybe if a combination of two nuts was used in conjuction with a split washer between the two nuts? easy enough to release and alter then tighten down at the given depth?

AS for the sticking of the rail, considering the saw throws waste over the rail and oil will attract and hold sawing waste, my 2 cents involves using graphite powder. Past experience in the Army found our rifles were attracting crud because of oil and in the mid 90's we switched to graphite powder to lubricate the rifles.

just some thoughts...

[John G]

I fixed the screw depth problem. I've been meaning to post a picture.

I just put a second nut on the underside of the arm. Two nuts (no jokes please) seem to lock the adjustment bolt well. Luckily there was enough of a gap between the arm and the stop to accommodate the nut.

I just sprayed the slide with Ezy-glide (whatever it's called) and it smoothed out ok.

Also, you will quickly realise that if you are cutting trenches, you have to put a spacer between the fence and the piece, because the blade doesn't slide sufficiently to the rear. Otherwise it won't cut all the way through.

John.