DIY Lathe

[hughie]

Here we go DIY lathe, welded construction for RHS and Unequal angle. Some what modelled on a Stubby.

Should have a bed around 950mm in length and swing a metre all up, although I doubt I will be going that big. Motor will be a variable speed DC around 1-1.5hp, 1000rpm. Not sure on the final numbers on the motor. I will purchase it towards the end of the project.

129x120x5mmm RHS two pieces welded together to form the headstock. This method of doubling should take care of any torsional deflection. The bed is from 150x65x10mm unequal angle. The short leg being used as the top of the bed.

All welds are with 'Weldall" rods for dissimilar steels, used these as they are very easy rods to weld with.

The last shot is a loose assembly prior to welding. Showing rear leg and spacer for the bed gap. ggrrh uploaded it first but it came in last???????

The bed assembly shots are to show, how to keep it all straight and square with the right gap in the bed. Note the cut out portion in shot three, here the bed edge extends around and over the Headstock RHS vertical joint for added stiffness. Final or completed welding will be stitch welding rather than full weld. This is to keep the distortion down and weld stress to a minimum.
As at this point in time I don't intend to normalise or stress relieve the completed job.

Areas I cant get to after welding I have painted with 'weld-thru' galvanised paint,all the light grey areas.

[wheelinround]

Going to be solid :2tsup:

Is this going to be a WIP Hughie :2tsup:

Whats the swing going to be :?

Got a motor sorted for it :roll:

I know full of questions can't wait to see it finished

[hughie]

here we go.

Tailstock end of the bed with leg. Its not fully welded here as I intend to fit a 100x100x10mm angle foot here. Will tidy up the welds.....bit rough.

Last shot checking the gap. I have aimed at 26mm for a 25mm rod. The bed angle is long side down to maximise rigidity.

[wheelinround]

Hughie :? the bed should that be the other way round so that the banjo clamp fits and slides easier

edited ok just re-read about rigidity

Or are you clamping the banjo both sides on the outside

[hughie]

Head stock details and general layout prior to welding also showing details of Tailstock end leg.

The Headstock will have three bearings and a 30mm shaft. Two with 4 bolts and the last with two as the shaft protrudes out the back for a hand wheel

The cut away if for a two step pulley with the motor being placed at the rear of Headstock on a swing arm set up.

Again painted the hard to get to later areas with weld-thru gal paint.

[hughie]

General set up of Headstock just prior too welding.

Run bolts through the bearing holes to lock the top in place. Gee clamps to hold it all in position.

From these shots you can get a clearer idea of the cut away area for the two step pulley.

Last shot is a indicator of how it is supposed to go together, bed and Headstock.

[hughie]

Shots of the Headstock with stitch welding.

I can afford to stitch weld this as the bed will be attached by welding and around the back there will be a 10mm plate 200mm wide welded to just below the pulley cut out. This is for the swing arm motor mount to be bolted too.

[hughie]

This part has been inspired by the Stubby. But with a different locking method that will allow far greater movement of the bed through 360' and up and down the bed to the fullest amount.

[hughie]

Here we have assembled just prior to welding, checking the fit etc.





Sat. roast in on and I gotta go, more next week

[Harry72]

Man of many talents!

[hughie]

Or are you clamping the banjo both sides on the outside


Wheelin'
:U stick with me on this one and it should be clearer as we get to towards the end. Yep it will definitely be a WIP

[China]

Looks good but why such expensive welding rods (electrodes) when you are only using ordinary type steel's

[hughie]

here we go.

We have the top moveable bed on the lower bed side and end shots. The method Iused to hold the moveable bed aligned during the weld process, keeping an eye on the gap, around 26mm for a 25mm holding bolt later

[funkychicken]

What a Man of Action!

Good onya Hughie, Look forward to seeing it finished!


Just a Q.... Won't the headstock have some sideways flex?

[Zarguld]

Watching with anticipation mate,look forward to seeing it completed.

[TTIT]

He's an ideas man this Hughie bloke :; Will be watching this one closely.

Hughie are those rods 'Weldall' or 'Weldwell'. I found a pack of rods called 'Weldwell' in Dads stuff and they are without doubt the best (easiest!!) rods I have ever used:2tsup:

[OGYT]

Constantly amazed by the inventiveness of our man Hughie!! Thumbs up, Hughie! I am also looking forward to seeing this all the way through.
Somebody explain why the Stubby and VB have those moveable beds ontop of the bed... Or is it to get your tailstock out to the side for special applications??

[hughie]

Somebody explain why the Stubby and VB have those moveable beds ontop of the bed... Or is it to get your tailstock out to the side for special applications??


Al, For me it provides an extra 'banjo' of great rigidity so that there will little or no need for out board turning ..........yay!

Also allows for greater dia's to be turned if required. Also bed extension,in this case I have a bed extension of about 18" or around a total of 48" all up.



Hughie are those rods 'Weldall' or 'Weldwell'. I found a pack of rods called 'Weldwell' in Dads stuff and they are without doubt the best (easiest!!) rods I have ever used:2tsup:


Vern, Would be one and the same just a different brand. Easiest ever rods :U and they have good strength for this sort of thing




Just a Q.... Won't the headstock have some sideways flex?


Funkychicken, I hope not :C :U . The design has two RHS pieces welded back to back and three bearings that will span the full width. Coupled with the bed wrapping around the RHS as well. Plus a plate 250mmx200mmx10mm welded to the back of the Headstock [ for the motor mounting ] just under the belt cutout.

All the area on the inside of the RHS below the Headstock shaft will remain clear. If necessary I can add extra stiffening in there as I did in the first design. This will run from the bed up to the plate area, or I can plug the bottom and fill both pieces with concrete. Weight, stiffening and anti-vibration benefits.



Looks good but why such expensive welding rods (electrodes) when you are only using ordinary type steel's


China, Would you believe its the only packet I had left and its not something I use everyday. In fact there was some concern that the damp had already got into them. I have just about enough to finish the job.

[artme]

Just a tip Hughie. If you think the rods are damp wrap loosely in foil and stick in the oven at about 2oo for 30 mins.

[OGYT]

Thanks for the explanation, Hughie. Makes sense to even a dummy, now. :D
Can't wait to see the finished lathe.

[wheelinround]

Wheelin'
:U stick with me on this one and it should be clearer as we get to towards the end. Yep it will definitely be a WIP

Yeh so I see Hughie :doh: either your slow or I quick.

Its does look great.

Now here's an ideal project for a welding video for the forum all sorts of weld required.

Maybe a display at this years WWS is in order.

[China]

Well that makes sense, will be interseting to watch the build and see it spinning some wood

[Harry72]

Yer finished yet :D

[bowl-basher]

:?:?Love you ideas and it should be solid but as a welder i don't like the use of
"weldall" that is a 312 stainless steel on mild steel would much rather you had used "satincraft or weldcraft" then the weld metal would match the strength and other properties of the mild steel
Still your welds wont rust ant he "STUBBIE" looks good:2tsup:

[hughie]

"weldall" that is a 312 stainless steel on mild steel would much rather you had used "satincraft or weldcraft" then the weld metal would match the strength and other properties of the mild steel


Bowlbasher,
'tis all I had on hand, have since picked up some satincraft. I will use this to weld the bed to the headstock, probably to morrow sometime.

oops! your right angle rest looks good 'n solid.

Artme, Thanks for the tip, will keep it in mind.

[oldiephred]

So far it looks like it will be a very good quality machine. I have to ask for curiosity reasons. Why go this route? Surely it will not result in any great savings unless your materials are all free or very cheap. In my other life as a younger whatever, I probably would have done the same thing just beacuse---. What is your reason.

Very much admire the work you have done thus far.

[Caveman]

:2tsup::2tsup:Great stuff Hughie.

Really looking forward to the next installment - keep it coming.:)

[TTIT]

Have you already got the main spindle organized Hughie???? If not, I'm picking up something next week that you might be interested in.:;

[hughie]

Why go this route? Surely it will not result in any great savings unless your materials are all free or very cheap. In my other life as a younger whatever, I probably would have done the same thing just beacuse---. What is your reason.



Oldiephred,
Hmmm, well, thats a good question. I suppose, its because I can for one:U

I also had the makings on hand and decided to see what I could do with them.

Given the retail price of some thing similar. I knew I could do it for less, much less.

What I will most likely do some time toward the end of or in the New Year is finally get around to putting up my web site. On this, I will put stuff like this for downloading.


Vern,
Headstock etc, nah not really. I have drilled it out for the sq flange type bearings and hole sawed large chaft clearance holes. But its far from being set in concrete. Be interested to see what you have in mind.

[hughie]

Here we go an up date to the lathe:-


The main concern is keeping everything square as I fix the bed to the Headstock. This probably took up half of my time, setting up tacking and rechecking. Then rechecking again as I finished off the welding.

The motor mounting plate is a bit big as I have yet to finalise the actual method. Hence the 12 holes all are tapped m10.

Last two pics are the feet, braced to give a little extra stiffness. The double braced foot is for the Headstock end.

Next week hope to finish off bed/headstock and give it a coat of paint. Hammer-tone of course this will hide all welding stuff ups etc :U .

[rsser]

Hope the square is accurate Hughie ;-}

So how will it improve on the Stubby?

[TTIT]

A TAFE teacher heard I was into turning and offered me this spindle they had made for a lathe they were building. The project never got off the ground and the bed they made has gone to scrap metal. They told me it was all made to standards so that generic attachments could be used like the M2 taper. I got him to drill it through for access with a knockout bar and he dropped it on my desk today while I was out. Got it home and started measuring it up for Hughie and found the thread is 1" - 11TPI :doh:- yes, you read right - ELEVEN TPI:o - so much for standards!. Even the faceplate he threw in was 8TPI . Maybe one of his students had it in for him or just felt like havin' a laugh. Anyway, I'm glad I haven't paid him for it - I don't really have a use for it but I thought that for $60 (couldn't buy the bearings for that!) it would be better off gathering dust at my place than gathering rust in TAFEs junkpile :shrug:. Might take it back to the pile I think :C

[Woodlee]

Thats a pipe thread .1"BSP

[Calm]

Is there room to shorten it up and cut another thread??

[artme]

Only if he's making a Stubby!:D:D:D

[hughie]

[1" - 11TPI :doh:- yes, you read right - ELEVEN TPI:o - so much for standards!. Even the faceplate he threw in was 8TPI . Maybe one of his students had it in for him or just felt like havin' a laugh. Anyway, I'm glad I haven't paid him for it - I don't really have a use for it but I thought that for $60 (couldn't buy the bearings for that!) it would be better off gathering dust at my place than gathering rust in TAFEs junkpile :shrug:. Might take it back to the pile I think :C
[/quote]

Vern ,

Hmm might be OK:-
couple of questions

[1] are the bearings self aligning? or whats the number on the bearings
[2] whats all the dia's and lengths of the shaft etc

I ve got some housings but can change them as they are the cheapest part. Bearings, your right $60 is a good price for the lot.

Anyway, if they are not suitable for me, you could make up a buffing set up of the lot. Just need a frame/stand and motor etc.

[wands]

.... Anyway, I'm glad I haven't paid him for it - I don't really have a use for it but I thought that for $60 (couldn't buy the bearings for that!) it would be better off gathering dust at my place than gathering rust in TAFEs junkpile :shrug:. Might take it back to the pile I think :C

If Hughie does not want to grab it, I'd be happy to part with $60 for them.

Have been quietly watching your progress Hughie, I think I have quite a bit of copying to do.

Cheers, Steve

[hughie]

Finally the welding is finished...phew!

Just finished with the basic coat of charcoal hammertone to stop the rust while I get on with all the camlocks, banjo etc.

I have laid it out to give you some idea of the capability. With the sliding bed up against the headstock it will swing a 400mm bowl ...that'l do me and with the bed extended south it can carry around 1400mm between centres.

Due to the type of clamping arrangement I can swing the bed around in any position and hopefully avoid any out board turning set up. The banjo will have 250mm of travel, so I am anticipating this should do the job

With bed extended I could swing a 800mm bowl..............:o nah! I not going anywhere near there :U

Currently its weight is up to 106kg and I reckon it'l go about 150-160kg with out the stand/base

[hughie]

Have been quietly watching your progress Hughie, I think I have quite a bit of copying to do.


Steve no worries, later I am going to draw it up anyway.

[funkychicken]

How's the sliding bed lock to the base?

[TTIT]

couple of questions

[1] are the bearings self aligning? or whats the number on the bearings
[2] whats all the dia's and lengths of the shaft etcAll is revealed in the new pic :U


Anyway, if they are not suitable for me, you could make up a buffing set up of the lot. Just need a frame/stand and motor etc.Already got bearings, shaft, motor, pulleys, stand and even the buffs - just lacking the main ingredient - time to put it all together :C

[littlebuddha]

Hughie hi bud not sure how i missed this have just come across it, new i need to get new glasses. Love it what sort of time frame you been working and what do you reakon on to the finish. Hows the costing, and any idea what other lathe you might put it up against. Nice to see a nice bit of work. Something i have never ever done and thats weld nearest i get is silver soldering, so a long way of, not even touched an ark welder. Hope it goes all okay for you love to see the finished job:2tsup:nice work..LB

[hughie]

Vern, Hmmm, will give it some thought over the weekend. Its about twice as much as I need in terms of length. Otherwise it could be used for another lathe in the future.

:U I gotta stop this, gonna end up building lathes etc and never get any turning done.




what sort of time frame you been working and what do you reakon on to the finish. Hows the costing, and any idea what other lathe you might put it up against.


LB, Time frame, well probably a couple of months to date. Its been done in my spare time in a borrowed workshop.

Cost is low, to date the main frame etc are recovered scrap - no cost. Bearings around $130AUD, shafting, flat bar etc $75AUD,motor and controls around $600-1000 at a guess.

I am looking at DC 1-1.5hp motor and some sort of swing arm set up as well.

Lathe comparison, not really sure I have tried to pinch [research :U] a few ideas from here and there. Maybe the nearest neighbour might be a Stubby due to the sliding bed.

Funkychicken,
How's the sliding bed lock to the base?
Bed lock will be a cam lock onto the sliding bed and down through the angle iron bed with the cam lever under the bed.This will allow the lock to slide up and down the lower bed along with the allowance of the top bed to slide anywhere as well. If that makes sense...:U

[artme]

Is certainly looking the goods.

Why a DC motor?
I checked out a few motors and controls. CMG could provide 2hp with Vs and cooling fan for about $1200 - plenty of grunt and an enormous speed range.

Even A unit from Jim Carrol would do me About $850 for 1hp.

[funkychicken]

So how are you gonna have the centres line up? Ie. After you swing the bed around?

[Fredo]

Very impressive Hughie, I have been watching with interest from the beginning. As a would-be home fabricator I can certainly appreciate the amount of effort that goes into a project like this - both the brain work to begin with and the grunt work to follow.

The dollars saved on your build compared to the purchase of an equivalent lathe new (if one exists) should be huge. A big pat on the back Hughie. Look forward to seeing it evolve... oh yeah, and pics - lots more pics.

Fredo :U

[wands]

I'm tipping that there are quite a few out there who are hanging out for an update. I know I am.

Cheers, Steve

[hughie]

So how are you gonna have the centres line up? Ie. After you swing the bed around?


Funkychicken,

Have a look the pic the bed you will notice a small tee like section at the base of the headstock. The sliding bed will slide under the tee part and into dropper of the tee. Thats the bit going down into the bed area. This will allow the sliding bed centre on it. The clamp then can be moved to the opposite end. As the clamp, clamps, it aligns, so now both ends area aligned and securely fixed. The tailstock will be on the bottom fixed bed and therefore not part of the sliding bed and not have any alignment problems.

Updates:---- grrh :~ my regular steel supplier was due to send some round and flat bar for the cam clamps, headstock shaft etc. It was a no show and I'll have to chase them up on monday. :~

Also I have been away taking a rest in Gods country....FNQ :hpydans2: ie Cairns for 8 days. If I could only get SWMBO to move north...........sigh :U

The only up date I have is the completion of bolts for the cam locks.
20mm, 25mm HT shafting with 80mm of 20mm dia threaded portion. Plus 30mm dia eyes welded to the rods, drilled out to 20mm.

The nuts are made from 30mm dia round of which I shall be cutting or milling a couple of flats on each one.

The large washers are for pulling down the banjo and sliding bed for locking purposes, 75-80mm dia and around 10mm thick.

[hughie]

Just finished the sliding bed cam lock. The cam lock can slide full length of the lower and upper beds and lock in any position.

The second shot shows the top nut and plate inside the sliding bed.

The cam has about 2.5mm of throw, a bit more than I usally do, but we are dealing with black steel and it has a fairly wide tolerance at manufacture.

One shot of the Banjo 250mm long, with a piece of 50mm round turned offset and the bottom recessed to take the flat bar and then welded in place. Three m8 holes for the toolrest lock, three gives a more adaptability to where you can place the Banjo.

[wheelinround]

Looking good Hughie and only 5 mins away eh :rolleyes:

[hughie]

Looking good Hughie and only 5 mins away eh :rolleyes:

:U yep! 5 mins.

[wands]

Hi Hughie,

How are you going on those last five minutes on your lathe?

Cheers, Steve

[hughie]

How are you going on those last five minutes on your lathe?


Have reach an impasse.

A design problem, vexed by financial considerations :U My cheap source of a DC motor has gone,ggrrrrh. Leaving me with a great increase in the lathe, a $1000+ plus the controller increase.

So Iam considering going over to a three pulley system to get a good speed range, around 8 speed including a high and low. A bit messy but the bank balance appreciates it :U

My previous lathe build has a 1.5kilowatt motor. So I am going to move this to the new one and put my spare .75kilowatt on the first lathe.

A part from that I have completed all the cam locks for the sliding bed and the banjo. Also have had a friend machine up the Headstock shaft. The bearing housings have been fitted awaiting the bearings and the shaft. Have also knocked up a few tool rests to keep me busy.

A further complication --- SWMBO has bought some new furniture and its filled up the garage and buried the lathe............

' are the path of true love is but a rocky one' ............. :o :C :U

[wheelinround]

Hughie what about checking out Grey's Online Auctions see what they have under Engineering stuff or even trading post.

[joez]

Hughie how about something like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/1-5KW-2HP-New-single-to-three-phase-VSD_W0QQitemZ280237277589QQihZ018QQcategoryZ154951QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

and a cheap 3 phase motor:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-VICTRANS-4-POLE-ELECTRIC-MOTOR-3-PHASE-1-1Kw_W0QQitemZ250261430318QQihZ015QQcategoryZ154951QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Shouldnt cost more than $400...



joez

[hughie]

Thanks guys for the info, much appreciated. :2tsup:

[Big Shed]

Hughie how about something like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/1-5KW-2HP-New-single-to-three-phase-VSD_W0QQitemZ280237277589QQihZ018QQcategoryZ154951QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

and a cheap 3 phase motor:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-VICTRANS-4-POLE-ELECTRIC-MOTOR-3-PHASE-1-1Kw_W0QQitemZ250261430318QQihZ015QQcategoryZ154951QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Shouldnt cost more than $400...



joez

Joez, that looks like an interesting possibility for an electronic variable speed lathe. Have you had any experience with these devices?

Also, there is another 3ph motor on Ebay, it says induction, what is the difference with the one above?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=270247221656&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=017

It certainly seems easier to mount.

Might even be worth looking at this combination to power a metal lathe and get rid of all the cumbersome belts and pulleys?
Last (for now) question, would the top speed with this setup be the top speed of the motor? If so, one would probably be better off with a 2800rpm motor for a wood lathe?

[hughie]

Hi heres my experiences with VSD's




that looks like an interesting possibility for an electronic variable speed lathe. Have you had any experience with these devices?



Big Shed,
I have one on my old MC1100, unfortunately it does not provide full torque through the speed range which this one does.


Also, there is another 3ph motor on Ebay, it says induction, what is the difference with the one above

As I undersatnd it, induction is with out brushes,less maintenance. :2tsup:



Might even be worth looking at this combination to power a metal lathe and get rid of all the cumbersome belts and pulleys?



I would keep a two step pulley set up as it will give you high and low. Especially if you cant get the 2800rpm you want




Last (for now) question, would the top speed with this setup be the top speed of the motor? If so, one would probably be better off with a 2800rpm motor for a wood lathe

[Big Shed]

Thanks hughie, I didn't think about the pulley route to increase the speed!:doh:

Goes to show how much I know!

Like the look of your DIY lathe, it'll be a beauty once you have it finished and going:2tsup:

[wands]

Hi Hughie, have you been able to get over your motor stumbling block?

Cheers, Steve

[hughie]

sigh..................no progress due no workshop and things are to remain the same till the new year.................:~


appreciate your reminder tho' :)

[artme]

Bugger!
But at least while I am away I won't miss anything.:q:q:q