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Boatman
29th January 2004, 06:34 AM
I have seen a video which shows a small circular saw blade being used on a spindle moulder. It was shown cutting the lid off a partially completed wooden box. The blade looked like an ordinary circular saw blade (about 150 mm diameter).

I cannot find any reference to blades like this specifically for spindle moulders in tool-sellers' sites. Can I use an ordinary general purpose TC tipped blade?

As far as safety is concerned, I cannot see that it is any more hazardous than other tools mounted on the spindle, as long as it is well guarded, the workpiece is fed through Shaw guards and I stick to manufacturers' stipulations as to maximum rotation speed.

Dirty Den
29th January 2004, 07:48 AM
I have seen purpose made blades that have varied in thickness from 3mm to about 12mm. I will make a couple of enquires for you and see what I can come up with.


Dennis

Dirty Den
4th February 2004, 05:47 PM
I was talking to the best woodmachinist I even clapped eyes on the other day and this is what he told me. Hope it helps.

You can use the sawblade on the spindle moulder but the main problem is that there is no riving knife. As the box is split the top will drop onto the swablade causing a kick back especially if you have the top pressure set. A safe way of doing this operation is to set the top pressure in place but with no pressure on it, so that it is acting as a guard only. (the regulations state you should set the guard as close as “practicable” too much pressure and it is not practicable.)

There will not be a problem on the first three sides of the box, however, there is a problem when cutting the fourth side because when it is cut the top will drop onto the sawblade. A solution to this is when the three sides have been cut, loosely insert some small pieces of wood the same thickness as the saw kerf into the gap on the three cut sides to stop it dropping. The lid will rest on these pieces and be supported as it goes through.

An even safer way to split these boxes is to cut them on the bandsaw using an extra long fence to hold theme against.


Dennis

Larry M
4th February 2004, 06:10 PM
My first post so hope it goes OK.

My brother-in-law is a cabinet maker, and he taught me to set the blade depth on a table saw just shy of the thickness of the timber (say 1 mm). All four sides can then be cut without the box collapsing on the blade. The residual material can be split with a stanley trimmer and removed with a sharp chisel.

Hope this helps.

Larry

soundman
4th February 2004, 11:19 PM
I wouldn't be comfortable doing this operation on a spindle moulder.

I do it often on my table saw. building equipment cases.

the benifit of a riving knife is good.

there are two ways I have approached this.
understand this is non thru sawing requiring the guard to be removed and presents certain hasards and not a method for the inexperienced.

if the case is a ruff old box that will be carpeted or filled & sanded.

i will,
cut the opposite sides then screw cleats on the cut sides & cut the other two. reasonably safe & no jugling.

if its a surface critical box i cut the oposite sides as above then slip two bits of 3mm aluminium angle in the slot & clamp.
clearing blades & fences ect.

this can be done free hand but its a jugling act & not recomended.

I am usualy doing reasonably large boxes.

for girly boxes the cut almost thru method is probably better.

cheers

Boatman
6th February 2004, 01:33 AM
Thanks for suggestions.

In the video that I mentioned he did put pieces of wood in the kerf of the three cut sides before tackling the last one. He must have got some advice from your friend, Den.

I think I'll try the bandsaw method next time I make a box, especially if it is a small box. It seems the safest way, as long as everything is nice and square.

I would be interested to know of any other examples of saw blades being used on a spindle moulder.

soundman
7th February 2004, 10:28 PM
I've had a think about this & its probably viable & reasonably safe given the right approach.

I can see advantages to working with the box flat if the box is relatively small & narrow.

One issue is the speed of the blade & tip speed of the tool.
Most saw blades shouldn't be spun much faster than 5000 rpm, so spindle speed is an issue. Top speed of a moulder is typicalt 8000 rpm, most have speed options. Mine will run as slow as 4000 rpm (i think).

Another issue is the size of the blade. A 12" blade on a spindle molder sounds realy scary to me, but the blade from a biscuit joiner looks much more reasonable.

the arbour sizes may even match.

that wouldn't be much diferent to running a slot cutter in a router table.

Suitable guarding may present some chalenges.

cheers