Apple wood

[weisyboy]

is the wood from apple trees any good for turning?

i hav a huge on down the back that has nevver got fruit on that i am thinking of cutng down if its worth it.

[BobL]

is the wood from apple trees any good for turning?

i hav a huge on down the back that has nevver got fruit on that i am thinking of cutng down if its worth it.

Carl, Apple is OK to look at and much nicer wood to handle. Many old saw and other tool handles were made from apple and it has a velvety feel and a nice grip. When it is cut and dried it will often crack, and twist like a boa constrictor and there is nothing you can do about it, so turning it green leads to a high failure rate. If you want planks I would quarter it and remove the middle, seal the end grain and let it dry. Even when dry it is not too hard to resaw. If you want to just turn it, cut up the blanks to suit, seal the end grain and let it dry.

[springwater]

Found this:

Apple wood

The wood is very hard, heavy and close grained. This makes it excellent in use for anything that has to endure heavy wear and tear, such as tools and handles. Apple is therefore one of the favourite woods to make clubs and wooden wedges. Such wedges were once an important woodcraft tool, because they were used in splitting trunks and poles. A knotty apple log could also make a splendid mallet head, especially when there was a side-branch next to it, which could be cut off to the desired length as a handle. Apple wood was also used to make golf clubs, but nowadays they are usually made from different types of metals.
Apple is a beautiful timber for decorative furniture, but because the trunks are often short and the branches small and twisted, it is only usually made into small pieces of furniture and kitchen tools. To make a small amount of wood go further, it has sometimes been used for inlay work. Some lovely pieces of sculpture and woodcarvings have been made from apple-wood.
I have also heard that wooden screws were sometimes made from apple wood.
Seasoned Apple makes a wonderfully luxurious firewood with a lovely scent. If you’re lucky enough to have any you may like to save it for a special occasion. The smoke from an apple wood fire gives a most excellent flavour to smoked foods.

[Harry72]

I'd be looking into finding out why its not fruiting first... might be something simple, an large established apple tree is not something thats replaced easily.
You may need to trim it up so you'll get some wood anyway.

[dai sensei]

My general rule has always been, any fruit tree is good for turning

[NeilS]

Most fruit and nut tree woods are worth a go. I never refuse an offer of any of these woods. If you are bowl turning, halve and wax as soon as possible to minimise the inevitable cracking.

Neil

[BobL]

Found this:

Apple wood

The wood is very hard, heavy and close grained.

That's clearly an observation from the land of wussy trees, :U I would call both its hardness and density moderate. Another thing that makes it nice for handling is it doesn't splinter easily.

[MajorPanic]

Sorry, it's CRAP for turning!

BUT it's REAL nice for making small cabinets :!

Look, I'll take it ALL off your hands so you won't be disappointed...... No, no don't thank me........ it's the least I can do for a fellow forumite. :wink:

It's a beautiful timber to work with!

[flynnsart]

beware of nails in it, if it doesnt fruit some people used to drive rusty nails in them (dont know how it was supposed to work) to get them to fruit.

donna

[springwater]

That's clearly an observation from the land of wussy trees, :U I would call both its hardness and density moderate. Another thing that makes it nice for handling is it doesn't splinter easily.

ya bloody well right BobL:

Air Dried Density (kg/m3)
Araucaria cunninghamii (Hoop Pine) 580
Acacia melanoxylon (Blackwood) 640
Acacia dealbata (Silver wattle) 710
Pyrus malus (Apple) 660-880
Eucalyptus marginata (Jarrah) 870
Eucalyptus camaldulensis (Red river gum) 930
Erythrophleum chlorostachys (Cooktown ironwood) 1220
Acacia cambagei (Gidgee) 1260

[springwater]

beware of nails in it, if it doesnt fruit some people used to drive rusty nails in them (dont know how it was supposed to work) to get them to fruit.

donna

Here's one explaination donna:
http://www.ticktalk.net/nails.html

[Jarrahrules]

Found this:

Apple wood

The wood is very hard, heavy and close grained. This makes it excellent in use for anything that has to endure heavy wear and tear, such as tools and handles. Apple is therefore one of the favourite woods to make clubs and wooden wedges. Such wedges were once an important woodcraft tool, because they were used in splitting trunks and poles. A knotty apple log could also make a splendid mallet head, especially when there was a side-branch next to it, which could be cut off to the desired length as a handle. Apple wood was also used to make golf clubs, but nowadays they are usually made from different types of metals.
Apple is a beautiful timber for decorative furniture, but because the trunks are often short and the branches small and twisted, it is only usually made into small pieces of furniture and kitchen tools. To make a small amount of wood go further, it has sometimes been used for inlay work. Some lovely pieces of sculpture and woodcarvings have been made from apple-wood.
I have also heard that wooden screws were sometimes made from apple wood.
Seasoned Apple makes a wonderfully luxurious firewood with a lovely scent. If you’re lucky enough to have any you may like to save it for a special occasion. The smoke from an apple wood fire gives a most excellent flavour to smoked foods.

Hello Spring water

I have a plum tree which would be similar to apple. It is in my shed!! A friend cut it down and pulled the base out for me.
It is about 1.4meters long and about 300mm in the but and for about 900mm.
Would i be better to slab it or cut it up in billets for wood turning.
Near the top i will cut for turning as it has branches coming out, Nice grian i would think.

Regards
JAMC

[Jarrahrules]

Most fruit and nut tree woods are worth a go. I never refuse an offer of any of these woods. If you are bowl turning, halve and wax as soon as possible to minimise the inevitable cracking.

Neil

Hi neil

how do you wax it. Obviously melt the wax and dip it in. What wax and does it melt on a cooker or do you need a gas torch?

JAMC

[David Mitchell]

I had an apple tree that had very little fruit next to atree that had lots of fruit,
the nursery told me to prune very heavy,I did this and the next year had a nice
lot of fruit and it is still growing ,but the drought is a problem at the moment.:?
Regards:)
David Mitchell

[BobL]

I have a plum tree which would be similar to apple.
Being a stone fruit tree its a bit different.
The grain is probably nicer and depending what it is it will be a bit softer.
My limited experience (only ever tackled one small plum about 10 years ago) was that it twists and cracks like apple but maybe not as bad.


Would i be better to slab it or cut it up in billets for wood turning.
Near the top i will cut for turning as it has branches coming out, Nice grian i would think.
Slabs should be minimum of 50 mm thick.

Here (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=57149) is thread about an Apricot tree I milled. You have to scroll to the end of the thread to see the grain pics.

An here (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=68190&highlight=apricot+tree) is some product.

And more product (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?p=717121#post717121).

[springwater]

Hello Spring water

I have a plum tree which would be similar to apple. It is in my shed!! A friend cut it down and pulled the base out for me.
It is about 1.4meters long and about 300mm in the but and for about 900mm.
Would i be better to slab it or cut it up in billets for wood turning.
Near the top i will cut for turning as it has branches coming out, Nice grian i would think.

Regards
JAMC

Hi Jarrahrules (OK), I've never had the pleasure of using Apple wood, nor have I milled it. I've seen a few orchards been ripped out, piled up and burnt before I new of the value of the wood. From what I can gather, fruit woods will crack at will when drying out especially if done too quickly, that's where the wax comes in, it slows the drying process down. Even still, I have a small amount of Necterine wood that cracked along it's length over about one year but hasn't moved since, leaving me plenty left to use. I would think that letting it have its way for a while and then cutting it up for billets is the best option.

[Jarrahrules]

Being a stone fruit tree its a bit different.
The grain is probably nicer and depending what it is it will be a bit softer.
My limited experience (only ever tackled one small plum about 10 years ago) was that it twists and cracks like apple but maybe not as bad.


Slabs should be minimum of 50 mm thick.

Here (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=57149) is thread about an Apricot tree I milled. You have to scroll to the end of the thread to see the grain pics.

An here (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=68190&highlight=apricot+tree) is some product.

And more product (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?p=717121#post717121).

Thanks BOB

Had a look at the apricaot thread. Did it twist or crack after it dried.

JMAC

[Jarrahrules]

Hi Jarrahrules (OK), I've never had the pleasure of using Apple wood, nor have I milled it. I've seen a few orchards been ripped out, piled up and burnt before I new of the value of the wood. From what I can gather, fruit woods will crack at will when drying out especially if done too quickly, that's where the wax comes in, it slows the drying process down. Even still, I have a small amount of Necterine wood that cracked along it's length over about one year but hasn't moved since, leaving me plenty left to use. I would think that letting it have its way for a while and then cutting it up for billets is the best option.

It has been in my shed near my lathe for about four months now. Some signs of splitting in the branch sections but i don't think it is into the trunk. That is why i was thinking of milling/ cutting it up and sealing it.

JAMC

[springwater]

Here (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=57149) is thread about an Apricot tree I milled. You have to scroll to the end of the thread to see the grain pics.

An here (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=68190&highlight=apricot+tree) is some product.

And more product (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?p=717121#post717121).

Please excuse me Jarrahrules but I just need to say BobL that your tool work most is impressive and ask, if you wouldn't mind telling, how do you make a slot for the ferrule like you have?

[Frank&Earnest]

I would think that letting it have its way for a while and then cutting it up for billets is the best option.

Yep, I have been saying this about stone fruit wood to anybody who would listen, apple might not be much different. I stashed away a couple of pieces a while ago, will have a look how they fared. Another little bit of trivia about pear and apple wood: it was deemed to be the best ersatz ebony when stained black.

[springwater]

it was deemed to be the best ersatz ebony when stained black.

Thanks Frank

For all people, like me, who didn't know what 'ersatz ebony' is:

"Faking is easy to do since ebony has a very dark colour. All that is required to produce ersatz ebony is some cheap wood and plenty of India ink, which will soak into the wood and stain black. Be careful buying ebony along the streets."

[BobL]

Please excuse me Jarrahrules but I just need to say BobL that your tool work most is impressive and ask, if you wouldn't mind telling, how do you make a slot for the ferrule like you have?

Do you mean these?
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=73569&stc=1&d=1210856557

If so, they are really called bolsters rather than ferrules.

Two ways,
At work - use a metalwork mill, Takes about 5 minutes for each one.
or
At Home - drill a series of holes and connect the holes, first using a square needle file and the a 3/16" round and a flat file. Takes about 10 minutes for each one.

[springwater]

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=70924&stc=1&d=1207828312
Sorry BobL, I stuffed up the name, I meant the slot for the Tang not the Ferrule, I don't know what makes a long slot in the handle to except the Tang, like the one in this picture, although only the beginning of the slot can be seen.

[BobL]

Sorry BobL, I stuffed up the name, I meant the slot for the Tang

OK
Description and chisel tools used to make the tang holes are here (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=68070).
One of the tools has a handle made from a piece of apricot wood - I used its blade, jammed temporarily into a bit of jarrah to make the hole in the bit of apricot. I like it when tools assist in their own construction.

[springwater]

Thanks BobL

[woodwork wally]

Hi neil

how do you wax it. Obviously melt the wax and dip it in. What wax and does it melt on a cooker or do you need a gas torch?

JAMC
Hi to wax wood I use an old electric frypan:D and melted in about three of the big "church candles" from a crazy clints or warehouse shop Melt the wax and dunk the end grain plus paint a bit on any branch trimmings . then put the wood in an airy environment out of sunlight:U Works good :2tsup: regards WW.Wally

[Jarrahrules]

Hi to wax wood I use an old electric frypan:D and melted in about three of the big "church candles" from a crazy clints or warehouse shop Melt the wax and dunk the end grain plus paint a bit on any branch trimmings . then put the wood in an airy environment out of sunlight:U Works good :2tsup: regards WW.Wally

Thanks very much wally.:2tsup::2tsup:

I wasn't shaw if it was bees wax or what.

Regards
JAMC:D:D:D

[DJ’s Timber]

Just plain old paraffin wax is normally used, but candle wax will do, it is most paraffin anyway