PDA

View Full Version : A beginning



Groggy
19th May 2008, 08:03 PM
I've turned a few handles and other stuff now. This was a small chunk of gnarly Osage Orange that I had no use for. Then I noticed I had an old printer head carriage bar, some CA adhesive and I needed a knockout bar. This bit was too small for the job really as I couldn't pare off the dimple from the end without making it too short.

tea lady
19th May 2008, 08:07 PM
Hey! Nice knob groggy!:D

Groggy
19th May 2008, 08:12 PM
:B:joystick::shhh:

tea lady
19th May 2008, 08:21 PM
:shutup1:

TTIT
19th May 2008, 08:27 PM
I'm going to completely avoid comment about the appearance, size and colour of your knob to protect the more sensitive types around here. I just want to know how you got such a good close up photo of the short, shiny, hard thing !!!:U

springwater
19th May 2008, 08:30 PM
:o

Groggy, do you mind me asking, what do/will you use it for? Did you just do it for practice or what?

Why am I getting drawn into this? :-

DJ’s Timber
19th May 2008, 08:41 PM
Nice shiny finish on your knob there Groggy, what did you use? Some of Christopha's head polish :whistling2:

Sawdust Maker
19th May 2008, 09:03 PM
nice bit of metal, what's that thing on the end for:rolleyes:

Cliff Rogers
19th May 2008, 09:07 PM
....what did you use? Some of Christopha's head polish...
Shoe polish..... not head polish.... shoe polish. :D

DJ’s Timber
19th May 2008, 09:08 PM
Shoe polish..... not head polish.... shoe polish. :D

:doh:

Groggy
19th May 2008, 09:40 PM
:o

Groggy, do you mind me asking, what do/will you use it for? Did you just do it for practice or what?

Why am I getting drawn into this? :-Pic three shows its intended use, it goes through the headstock to knock out the drive spur and the tailstock to loosen the live center.

And yes, mainly just for practice (I did need the knockout bar).

Groggy
19th May 2008, 09:47 PM
Nice shiny finish on your knob there Groggy, what did you use? Some of Christopha's head polish :whistling2:Nothing so grand as that. I used Mr uBeaut's product, it makes yer knobs glow!

springwater
19th May 2008, 09:56 PM
Pic three shows its intended use, it goes through the headstock to knock out the drive spur and the tailstock to loosen the live center.

And yes, mainly just for practice (I did need the knockout bar).

Not being a turner Groggy, your explaination of its use means nothing to me but it sounds like it means alot to you and it looks good too with the personal touch on the end, thanks for letting me know.

Now all of you others get back in the box:D

springwater
19th May 2008, 10:00 PM
...just one other thing though, if it makes your "knob glow", then wouldn't it be too slippery to pull out or put in?

Groggy
19th May 2008, 10:05 PM
...just one other thing though, if it makes your "knob glow", then wouldn't it be too slippery to pull out or put in?I asked for this, didn't I :doh:

Cliff Rogers
19th May 2008, 10:12 PM
.....I used Mr uBeaut's product, it makes yer knobs glow!
I've seen it used on shoes too now. :D

Honorary Bloke
19th May 2008, 10:27 PM
I've seen it used on shoes too now. :D

What? MFKL? :rolleyes::D

Cliff Rogers
19th May 2008, 10:31 PM
Nup.... Ubeaut's Ultrashine.:D

springwater
19th May 2008, 10:34 PM
I asked for this, didn't I :doh:
...no, seriously though, wouldn't it be better if you could grip on to it better? You might go doing your back in if your hand came off too quickly, don't you reckon?

Manuka Jock
19th May 2008, 10:57 PM
Thats why it has a knob on the end of it , to stop ya hand slipping off eh :rolleyes:

springwater
19th May 2008, 11:05 PM
Thats why it has a knob on the end of it , to stop ya hand slipping off eh :rolleyes:

Wouldn't it be better with a handle on it then? I think a handle would be easier than a slippery nob, even if it does glow.

tea lady
19th May 2008, 11:06 PM
DJ! Now you're gonna have to spank yourself and the rest of 'em.:suck::D

springwater
19th May 2008, 11:07 PM
ah noooooooooooooo, DJ's gunna cripple me again:no:

tea lady
19th May 2008, 11:12 PM
Its all Groggy's fault. He started it by posting such a suggestive photo.:rolleyes:

springwater
19th May 2008, 11:17 PM
Its intended use, it goes through the headstock to knock out the drive spur and the tailstock to loosen the live center.

And yes, mainly just for practice.


Its all Groggy's fault. He started it by posting such a suggestive photo.:rolleyes:

ah, but how about his explaination of said photo? Now that's even more suggestive.

Calm
19th May 2008, 11:17 PM
How many more posts before someone says the wrong thng and its wiped out to the big black hole???

Groggy
19th May 2008, 11:22 PM
Its all Groggy's fault. He started it by posting such a suggestive photo.:rolleyes:I feel so fortunate to have caught everyone on a slow day...:roll:

I thought it only natural to display a knockout bar such as this, 'tis a thing to be proud of.

springwater
19th May 2008, 11:34 PM
I feel so fortunate to have caught everyone on a slow day...:roll:

I thought it only natural to display a knockout bar such as this, 'tis a thing to be proud of.

Sorry Groggy if I offended you, I didn't intend to, you seemed to be taking it the right way.

The pride in your work shows in the treatment of your tools especially if you make them yourself, well done.

Groggy
19th May 2008, 11:43 PM
Sorry Groggy if I offended you, I didn't intend to, you seemed to be taking it the right way.

The pride in your work shows in the treatment of your tools especially if you make them yourself, well done.Offend me? Nah, you need to figure out the double entendre in the second sentence :U

springwater
19th May 2008, 11:45 PM
Offend me? Nah, you need to figure out the double entendre in the second sentence :U

yeah, I know it doesn't sound right but I hoped you got what I meant.



ya knob:U

joe greiner
20th May 2008, 12:45 AM
I just want to know how you got such a good close up photo of the short, shiny, hard thing !!!:U

If I had two cameras, this might be easier to interpret. The sheet metal bracket attaches to the bottom of the camera via the slot. The fingers at the front hold a jeweller's eye loupe. I made the glob of silicone with food wrap across the camera's lens, pinched by the loupe with another piece of food wrap, both for bond breakers.

I have three loupes: 2.5x, 5x, and 10x. Not too much variation in results, except more vignetting at the higher powers, but not much depth of focus with any of them. These pics are in macro mode BTW.

The only down side is that the contraption must be attached with the camera turned on (Canon PowerShot A300 with the sliding door open). It has an auto timeoff, so I have to be sorta quick.

Joe

mobjack68
20th May 2008, 04:58 AM
Maybe it's the moon phase ????? the gutter is definitely getting full.....




you guys are toooo funny...

Honorary Bloke
20th May 2008, 08:20 AM
If I had two cameras, this might be easier to interpret. The sheet metal bracket attaches to the bottom of the camera via the slot. The fingers at the front hold a jeweller's eye loupe. I made the glob of silicone with food wrap across the camera's lens, pinched by the loupe with another piece of food wrap, both for bond breakers.

I have three loupes: 2.5x, 5x, and 10x. Not too much variation in results, except more vignetting at the higher powers, but not much depth of focus with any of them. These pics are in macro mode BTW.

Joe

All very nice, Joe. But no one was asking you about YOUR close shots, they were asking Groggy about HIS. And I am fairly certain no one was really looking for a technical answer. :rolleyes::D:D You weren't by chance an engineer in a previous life? :wink:

Cliff Rogers
20th May 2008, 09:20 AM
.......You weren't by chance an engineer in a previous life? :wink:
Ooooooooooooooo....... :D

wheelinround
20th May 2008, 10:28 AM
I've turned now. :no: I hope not Groggy

This was a small chunk, gnarly, Orange that I had no use for.:doh: Poor fella best see a Dr. have it removed :p :roll:

Then I noticed I had an old head, :rolleyes: age bar, Make it a Plastic surgeon
who will apply some CA adhesive :D

and I needed out bar. Oxford Street has a few

This bit was too small for the job really :(( Obviously never big enough

as I couldn't pare off the dimple from the end :D Here in is the reason Joe Greiner's lens would be good without making it too short.

:?

Frank&Earnest
20th May 2008, 12:24 PM
Well, Groggy, I got a nastier reaction when, in my NESB ignorance, I described the part of England a colleague was coming from as "ah, you mean the knob in the middle". Never used the word since.:D

Frank&Earnest
20th May 2008, 12:30 PM
Thanks Joe, I was wondering if using a loupe would work. Notwithstanding others' negative comments :rolleyes: and with my apologies for the diversion, your post was useful to me.

Groggy
20th May 2008, 12:59 PM
HB was right of course, I didn't think it was a serious question, but just in case - I turned to the camera's macro setting, zoomed the lens and turned on a lamp.

DJ’s Timber
20th May 2008, 02:19 PM
Here's a pic of my knock-out bar, made from a bit of Mulga and stainless rod that I had laying around, never did like the original one that came with the lathe. It was just a bit of rod with no handle on it and it was to short to even put a knob on it.

73815

No idea what finish I used on it either, back then when I made it, I would have been either just EEE, Danish Oil or Arboroil, never less it has retained its sheen well from constant use :roll: :q :U

Calm
20th May 2008, 02:59 PM
.......... never less it has retained its sheen well from constant use :roll: :q :U

Dj that could be cos you always have your hand on it:D:D:D:p

TTIT
20th May 2008, 05:20 PM
HB was right of course, I didn't think it was a serious question, but just in case - I turned to the camera's macro setting, zoomed the lens and turned on a lamp.It actually was a serious question (surrounded by innuendo!) - when I photograph the wooden egges in macro mode the outer edge is always blurred as though the depth of field over that 20mm or so is unattainable - when I try to add extra light to get around it I end up with too many flares and reflections but you seem to have got around that - how???

(Rechecked for innuendo and double entendre - clean!:;)

Black Ned
20th May 2008, 05:28 PM
This thread reminds me of an old joke
- about the Lone Ranger being disguised as a door and had his knob shot off!

tea lady
20th May 2008, 05:41 PM
I think the photographers use some sort of spray to take the shine off things but that would mask some of the wood grain detail too. My "professional" photographer friend has a big light difuser that is about 1 meter squarish. Kinda like a hanging light box. He also has proper flash pack and stuff. What you need is more light, but less direct. I have tried reflecting with stireen sheets or paper. You get a difused light rather than another shiny light reflection. (My friend photographs pottery and glass. And wood I think. So knows about shiny things.

That really is a knock-out bar, Groggy.:D

rsser
20th May 2008, 06:19 PM
Seen from the right end (ahem), surely it's a push-in rod? That knocks out what it connects with? :D

Groggy
20th May 2008, 07:33 PM
It actually was a serious question (surrounded by innuendo!) - when I photograph the wooden egges in macro mode the outer edge is always blurred as though the depth of field over that 20mm or so is unattainable - when I try to add extra light to get around it I end up with too many flares and reflections but you seem to have got around that - how???

(Rechecked for innuendo and double entendre - clean!:;)Sorry mate, in the middle of that lot the plot got lost! I use the zoom in macro mode to increase the depth of field. If you get too close it focuses on the nearest edge and the trailing parts fall out of focus, so I drop back a bit and zoom in, this seems to work.

Mrs Woodpecker
20th May 2008, 07:35 PM
We're woodturners so why should we have a plastic knob on our knockout bar when we can have a wooden one? No further comment is necessary - some doozies are already in print.
Cheers, Shirley :wink::wink:

Groggy
20th May 2008, 07:36 PM
That really is a knock-out bar, Groggy.:DAwww, don't start 'em up agin TL! :wink:

I think I should have called it a stirring rod, at least then I could say it was pretty successful :D

Honorary Bloke
20th May 2008, 09:06 PM
Thanks Joe, I was wondering if using a loupe would work. Notwithstanding others' negative comments :rolleyes: and with my apologies for the diversion, your post was useful to me.

If it were anyone else, I'd just attribute the confluence to serendipity. But I know you too well. :D:D:D:D

joe greiner
20th May 2008, 10:02 PM
All very nice, Joe. But no one was asking you about YOUR close shots, they were asking Groggy about HIS. And I am fairly certain no one was really looking for a technical answer. :rolleyes::D:D You weren't by chance an engineer in a previous life? :wink:

Yes. And even worse, an engineering instructor too.:D

Now that this thread has gone completely off the rails, one trick to photographing highly polished metal work is a light even dusting with talcum powder.

But back to Ern's question, which surprises me from his experience, it's used to knock out a spur or dead/live centre from the Morse taper socket in a headstock or tailstock spindle respectively. Or maybe he asked it for the benefit of visitors.

And one of the better stirring rods we've seen in a while.:D

Joe

m2c1Iw
20th May 2008, 10:25 PM
Well Groggy I for one cannot wait for the next episode from the Grog Shop, this one has been both entertaining and informative.:rolleyes:

Good looking protuberance by the way.:D

Mike

tea lady
20th May 2008, 10:36 PM
Sorry if this is like teaching grandma to suck eggs.:D Another thing you can do when focusing on things is to point the focus field at the bit you want in focus (the edge,say) half press the shutter release and hold it then change your framing to something interesting. Useful when you want the bit you want in focus on the side, not in the middle. Does that make sense. If the #^&@$ camera keeps focusing on the spider web or stick instead of the edge put your hand in front of the camera at the distance you want to focus at and lock the focus on that then re frame. Your hand is also a good thing to take exposor readings off as it is equalish to that middle grey that pros use for exposor.

Sawdust Maker
20th May 2008, 10:41 PM
If you've got an SLR you can close the lens right down to increase depth of field (this of course will increase the exposure time). I can't help with a non SLR sorry - I'll have to have a play with my son's kodak on macro and see what we can come up with, Groggy's method seems to work

As to the highlights you can bounce your flash of something white or have the lightsource diffused through an old sheet or something

The Pros bounce their flash off a fancy umbrella or two

Frank&Earnest
20th May 2008, 10:52 PM
If it were anyone else, I'd just attribute the confluence to serendipity. But I know you too well. :D:D:D:D

:? Maybe I am getting slow with old age, but I don't get it. Are you suggesting that I made that comment to get at you specifically? If that is the case, methink paranoia is a better explanation... :D

I have no ax to grind with you, my apologies if I gave you that impression in any way. If I had, I would be much more direct in my comments...:D

Honorary Bloke
20th May 2008, 11:07 PM
I have no ax to grind with you, my apologies if I gave you that impression in any way. If I had, I would be much more direct in my comments...:D

No offense taken. I know it wasn't personal. It is just my firm belief (rightly or wrongly) that you would gladly tranquilise a possum just to have an excuse to stir it. :wink::p:p:p:p

Cliff Rogers
20th May 2008, 11:38 PM
Yes. And even worse, an engineering instructor too.:D
Ooooooooo....ooooohh :p

Cliff Rogers
20th May 2008, 11:48 PM
.... you would gladly tranquilise a possum just to have an excuse to stir it. :wink::p:p:p:p
And you wouldn't bother with the tranquiliser.... unless it waas the drinkable kind. :D

TTIT
20th May 2008, 11:49 PM
Sorry mate, in the middle of that lot the plot got lost! I use the zoom in macro mode to increase the depth of field. If you get too close it focuses on the nearest edge and the trailing parts fall out of focus, so I drop back a bit and zoom in, this seems to work.Never thought of that:doh: Will definitely try it out on the next egg (or other knobby item :U).

Tea Lady - Thanks for the other tips but yes, Grandma has already sucked most of those eggs already. Groggy's suggestion is about the only thing I haven't tried so far :shrug:

Groggy
20th May 2008, 11:52 PM
But back to Ern's question, which surprises me from his experience, it's used to knock out a spur or dead/live centre from the Morse taper socket in a headstock or tailstock spindle respectively. Or maybe he asked it for the benefit of visitors.joe, Ern knows exactly what he is on about :wink:.

Cliff Rogers
20th May 2008, 11:57 PM
Yeah Joe... more of that engineer stuff. :wink: :wink: :wink: :D

Groggy
20th May 2008, 11:58 PM
On the photography question, if I may be permitted to hijack my own thead, the pic was taken with a Kodak CX7530 (don't bother looking it up, its a low to mid range digital). My son's camera is a Canon Powershot G9, the macro on that can just about focus on the coating on its own lens. If he lets me (read - doesn't catch me) I'll take a similar pic with it - big difference.

Cliff Rogers
21st May 2008, 12:19 AM
OK, I can't be outdone. (not counting the photography that is)

I have a knock out bar for each end. (Deal with that however you will. :rolleyes: )

The HANDLES are made from Crows Ash.

Oops, forgot the pics. :doh:

Honorary Bloke
21st May 2008, 12:48 AM
OK, I can't be outdone. (not counting the photography that is)

I have a knock out bar for each end. (Deal with that however you will. :rolleyes: )

The HANDLES are made from Crows Ash.

Oops, forgot the pics. :doh:


Ooooh! Different knobs for different applications. I like that! :cool::wink:

Cliff Rogers
21st May 2008, 01:10 AM
Ooooh! Different knobs for different applications. I like that! :cool::wink:
Applications...... now there is a word.... :rolleyes:

Groggy
21st May 2008, 10:50 PM
A couple of quick questions:

1. What is the best way to drill the hole in the end of a chisel handle after turning?

2. What is the best finish to use for a turning tool?

Sawdust Maker
21st May 2008, 11:45 PM
Quick answers
1. dunno, anytime I've tried on the lathe, I've managed to bugger it up. Now I do it first. I suppose you could try one of these from vermec http://vermec.tripod.com/PDFs/livecentre.pdf

2. I've used organoil's hard burnishing oil with success. I imagine ubeaut's shellawax would also work well

TTIT
22nd May 2008, 12:16 AM
A couple of quick questions:

1. What is the best way to drill the hole in the end of a chisel handle after turning?

2. What is the best finish to use for a turning tool?
1. Before turning works best for me - fit the hole over a live centre or a turned tenon as a drive. Drilling afterwards is just asking the drill to run off centre (guess how I know this :B)

2. Just a rub with EEE - looks great and constant use keeps the patina going.

Tornatus
22nd May 2008, 12:24 AM
A couple of quick questions:

1. What is the best way to drill the hole in the end of a chisel handle after turning?

2. What is the best finish to use for a turning tool?

G'day Groggy

When I turn tool handles, I always use a blank long enough to allow for a spigot to be held in a chuck - I've never been fond of the uncertainties of turning between centres; and if you use a chuck, it's easy to drill the tool mounting hole on the lathe, and to fit the ferrule. I always use a Jacobs Chuck in the tailstock to drill the hole - frequent backing out and cleaning of the drill flutes avoids any overheating, and it's more accurate than freehand "long-hole boring".

If the tool has a square shank, I usually knock down the edges into a rough circular shape on the grinder before determining the size of the hole to be drilled in the handle. Some people like to force a square shank into a round hole, supposedly to make it seat better, but in my experience this increases the likelihood of the handle splitting, and is no more secure than a neat fitting hole with a modest amount of glue. For non-turning tools, a press fit is usually considered quite sufficient.

I suggest that you want tool handles to have a slightly rough "natural" finish, to assist with grip - no high gloss finishes here. The polish off a skew chisel bevel can even be too slippery - I give my handles a quick sand with 120 grit and finish with Boiled Linseed Oil mixed with turps. BLO won't leave a sticky residue like raw linseed, but it penetrates and nourishes the wood and doesn't go hard on the surface like the burnishing oils. I really dislike the high-gloss plastic finish on many handled imported turning tools, and usually sand it off. Our local P&N tools have much more practical handles.

Cliff Rogers
22nd May 2008, 07:42 AM
1. I drill the hole in the blank & make sure the tool will fit before I turn the handle. I have a large cone tail centre that I stick in the hole to turn it. Don't do it up too tight or you can split the blank.

2. Trad wax is all I use & I rub some on the tool as well to stop it from going rusty.

rsser
22nd May 2008, 08:38 AM
Tip: use a brad point drill. Less likely to wander in endgrain.

Groggy
22nd May 2008, 04:27 PM
Thanks everyone, I'll give that a go tonight. :2tsup:

Jim Carroll
22nd May 2008, 06:38 PM
Tornatus to avoid the handle splitting push the square tang in as far as it will go then hit the top of the handle with a wooden mallet.

This will then draw the blade into the hole you have drilled and the square edges will swage there way in giving you a very firm hold on the blade, no need for glue as it will not twist out on you.

Groggy
22nd May 2008, 10:09 PM
Managed to drill the hole by using the drive spur, jacobs chuck and holding by hand. Next time I'll definitely do the hole first. Finish is some of Neil's Shellawax "Seconds" that I had. It makes the grip very non-slip.

I modelled the handle in the same shape as my hamlet parting tool so the parting tools would be the same. The timber is redgum. I took a smidge too much off the spigot but it still needed a few light taps to get the ferrule on.

Manuka Jock
22nd May 2008, 10:13 PM
Its good to see the Boss keeping a close eye on the apprentice's work method :D

springwater
22nd May 2008, 10:17 PM
Well handled Groggy, great choice of dog and better choice of words.:2tsup:

Groggy
22nd May 2008, 10:20 PM
Yeah, funny that. I did a practice piece in pine and when I was finished it was roughly the shape of a bone, so instead of throwing it in the burn box I gave it to the dog. She went totally nuts over it and galloped around the yard for about 20 mins chewing and playing with it. Must have thought I spent all that time making it specially for her so she felt obliged to have a "special play" :D.

Now when I am on the lathe she is right behind me (just out of kicking distance so I don't trip on her).

tea lady
22nd May 2008, 10:47 PM
Looks like you managed to get a good grip on that one Groggy!:D:2tsup:

My little dog keeps stealing my beginner turnings. I think she really likes the pine. They vanish off the table and I find them on her mat with teeth marks in them.:( Gonna make the retrospective exhibition a bit shabby.:rolleyes:

DJ’s Timber
22nd May 2008, 11:03 PM
Looks like Sally going to get that any second :o, tell you what thought, my Sally will remove any bits of timber from the floor of the shed if it's not screwed, nailed or bolted down :doh:

Groggy
22nd May 2008, 11:05 PM
You need to train her to bring the timber IN the shed, not the other way around :doh: . How is she now anyway, better?

DJ’s Timber
22nd May 2008, 11:27 PM
She is doing very well, wouldn't know that she has been run over now except for a bald spot on her head and she is back to her usual 100 hundred mile an hour terrorising self :U, gets the wire taken out early next week :2tsup: