NeilS
24th May 2008, 07:43 PM
This post may be of interest to someone who already owns a Helligrind sharpening jig system and would like to add a sweptback gouge grind to its functions.
Inspired by various members on this forum, and in particular Stu in Tokyo, I made the following modification to my Helligrind gouge holder to add this function. This was easier for me than fabricating a jig in metal from scratch. Completed modification is shown in the first image.
1. Drill and tap outer sleeve of gouge holder to take a machine screw to secure the inner sleeve so it won’t rotate.
2. Insert a piece of wooden doweling into a block of wood. The block is the same width as the shoulders of the gouge holder.
3. Screw a metal strip either side of the wooden block, leaving an extension on the end to fit over the gouge holder.
4. Mark and drill holes in metal strips to take a suitable sized bolt through the gouge holder.
5. Trim off any excess metal and remove any sharp corners.
6. Cut dowel length to achieve the overall dimensions according Jean Michel’s jig plan below.
7. Adjust holder to desired angle with a protractor and tighten bolt through holder.
8. Set up an adjustable fulcrum. I just clamped a strip of wood to the grinder bench with a V recess screwed to the end. See Stu in Tokyo’s post (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=54676&highlight=grinding+jig)for a more substantial solution.
The jig has worked well for me
Hope this info is useful to someone.
Neil
Inspired by various members on this forum, and in particular Stu in Tokyo, I made the following modification to my Helligrind gouge holder to add this function. This was easier for me than fabricating a jig in metal from scratch. Completed modification is shown in the first image.
1. Drill and tap outer sleeve of gouge holder to take a machine screw to secure the inner sleeve so it won’t rotate.
2. Insert a piece of wooden doweling into a block of wood. The block is the same width as the shoulders of the gouge holder.
3. Screw a metal strip either side of the wooden block, leaving an extension on the end to fit over the gouge holder.
4. Mark and drill holes in metal strips to take a suitable sized bolt through the gouge holder.
5. Trim off any excess metal and remove any sharp corners.
6. Cut dowel length to achieve the overall dimensions according Jean Michel’s jig plan below.
7. Adjust holder to desired angle with a protractor and tighten bolt through holder.
8. Set up an adjustable fulcrum. I just clamped a strip of wood to the grinder bench with a V recess screwed to the end. See Stu in Tokyo’s post (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=54676&highlight=grinding+jig)for a more substantial solution.
The jig has worked well for me
Hope this info is useful to someone.
Neil