Handsaw with a "crown"

[MOM]

I’m looking for help regarding sharpening of handsaws. I recently bought at a garage sale a Sandvik 26 inch 8 point crosscut handsaw. It is in quite good condition but needs to be resharpened. The blade has a “crown” or convex edge on the cutting side (about a quarter inch crown over the 26 inch length). I understand that the theory behind this type of shape was to “minimise the amount of saw in contact with the wood” or some such idea. Whatever the original reason, I would like to retain this shape. My problem is that when I telephoned a Sydney “saw doctor” he seemed to have no idea what I was talking about. I suspect that in these days of automated saw setting and sharpening there is no room for something “out of the ordinary”.

Is it possible to have such a saw professionally set and sharpened? Can anyone recommend someone in the Sydney area?

Another recent purchase was a 12 inch 14 point Sheffield tenon saw. I would like to have it sharpened and set as a rip saw with the same pitch. Are there any problems in this plan?

[derekcohen]

MOM

I've never heard of such a thing. All handsaws (as I know them) have straight cutting sides (with the exception of a veneer saw, but that's something else). It sounds to me as if the saw has been sharpened many times, never jointed correctly in the sharpening process, and you have been fed a line!

Perhaps you might publish a picture of it here for viewing.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Barry_White]

You could try Chapman Saws at Ryde. They are in 9 Rothesay Ave.
9809 3746

[MOM]

To Derek

The saw looks like it has never been sharpened or set since new. There are no irregular or damaged teeth. The "crown" is perfectly regular. Even before I bought the saw I had seen reference to this idea in a number of old tool and woodworking books. That is what attracted me to the saw when I first saw it in the garage sale. There was no "feeding of lines". I have checked again in my library of older woodworking books and have seen a number of references to the practice, including, for example, statements to the effect that the desirable amount of crown is one-eighth of an inch for a 26 inch saw. So Derek, you can learn something new every day. If I can borrow a digital camera I shall post a picture for you and any other Doubting Thomases. In the meantime, check out this site, for example http://www.thisoldworkshop.com/tips.htm



To Bazza

Thanks. I'll give Chapman saws a try. Obviously I would like to keep the original crown shape. If it turns out that professionals can't do it I shall have to give it a try myself - it's fortunate that the saw seems to have seen little use and a simple sharpening without any jointing or resetting might suffice to get it up and running again.

MOM

[silentC]

MOM,

I don't believe there is any difference between sharpening saws with a crown and those without. If they are sharpened by hand, the process is the same.

You should get yourself a saw set and a triangular file and give it a go yourself. You'll probably do a better job than a modern saw sharpener anyway, unless you can find one of the old guys. It's not hard and learning how to do it yourself means you'll keep them in better condition than if you had to send them away. I'm sure at least one of your old books will tell you how to do it.

[Chesand]

Recently there was a thread on hand sharpening of saws.. If want to give it a go yourself do a search. I think it was under "Hand Sharpening"