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View Full Version : Glueing hook and loop sanding thingees



Arron
6th June 2008, 06:47 PM
I use an electric drill for sanding - using a little 2 inch wide circular, hook and loop sanding thingee - just like this http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=74797&d=1212677673. The problem is that the pad (the thing you attach the sandpaper too) keeps coming off. Can anyone recommend a glue that will make it stay there.

I know there are probably better ways to sand, and probably I'm pressing too hard anyway, but I dont want to deal with these things at the moment, I just want to be able to glue the pad on and have it stay there.

thanks
Arron

Ps, thanks Rubatcion for the convienent image.

TTIT
6th June 2008, 08:18 PM
Will be watching this - my 1" is about to come adrift and I've been wondering the same thing.:;

Check twice!
6th June 2008, 09:11 PM
There is a double sided tape that I have used for many tempory applications, and have tuned out to be a permenate solution on some. This must be available in AU as well.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=49224&cat=1,110,43466&ap=1

Just a solution that works for me.

John

ticklingmedusa
6th June 2008, 09:14 PM
I'd go with contact cement or maybe Goop.

DavidG
6th June 2008, 09:17 PM
Selleys kwik grip (the none water based one)

NeilS
6th June 2008, 09:24 PM
I have found Selley's contact glue that specifies 'heat resistant' on the can to be the best for this. Any others that I have used have eventually failed due to the heat generated during sanding.

Neil

underfoot
6th June 2008, 10:04 PM
Gel grip, (not sure if its selleys or bear) works for me,
have used it for years, get it hot and it still doesn't frisbee off

derekcohen
6th June 2008, 10:08 PM
3M (high power) contact glue (spray can). I think you can get it at Bunnies. Used it for years and can say categorically that it is superb stuff.

Regards from Perth

Derek

robutacion
6th June 2008, 11:21 PM
Hi everyone,

Thanks Arron, I have used contact cement glue on my pads, on rubber to wood and on Velcro to rubber. So far, I haven't had any problems.

Cheers
RBTCO

Stu in Tokyo
6th June 2008, 11:55 PM
Yep, contact cement works for me! :2tsup:

robutacion
7th June 2008, 12:50 AM
Yeah, I agree Stu.
I think is important to remind people how important is to have both surfaces to the glued, perfectly clean.
Sometimes, when trying to glue / re-glue certain things with contact cement, certain surfaces are very difficult to clean or old glues impossible to remove, and that is when an old "trick" passed on to me, works a treat.
Curious...? off course you are! OK, clean surfaces the best you can,(never use Thurps:no:, Metho is ok), use some low grid sand paper or a file to rough it up a little, blow all dust away and poor 1 or 2 drops of thin super glue on the centre of the surface, very quickly use a finger tip to spread evenly all over, and let dry for at least 15 minutes. Do the same on the other surface, and you can then re-coat them with contact cement, let it dry for a few minutes and then joint the 2 parts and press firmly for a minute or two.
There are also 2 other things that I would like to remind you off, firstly the amount of super glue used, should be just enough to cover the full surfaces with a very thin coat, too much and will not work, secondly and mainly when contact cement is used to glue things that are going to be in some sort of contact with "heat", allow it to dry at least 24 hours, preferentially 48 hours, so that the glue can set its first stage of "curing". Total curing can take up to 7 days, depending on glue brand and composition. This is the reason why some gluing's fail to work!:doh:

I hope this helps, "old secrets" and trade "tricks" are better served if shared, I believe!:wink:

Cheers:2tsup:
RBTCO

Stu in Tokyo
8th June 2008, 04:11 AM
Excellent info RBTCO :2tsup:

robutacion
8th June 2008, 10:48 PM
Thanks, Stu :D

Cheers
RBTCO

JerHall
11th June 2008, 03:33 PM
Arron,
I use hot glue for the hook strips on top of blue foam, a dense kind we use here in the back country to ease our sleep at night. I also make twist-on pads using 3M Roloc pads, one for each grit. The basic approach is described here: http://aroundthewoods.com/sanding.shtml

Every few months I may have to re-glue the hook piece on for the lower grits which suffer more from use and heat. The stiffness of the hot glue is not a problem as it is cushioned by the foam.

Hope this helps. Works well for me.

Jerry Hall
jerryhallstudio.com

Arron
15th June 2008, 11:05 PM
Thanks for the posts, guys. I bought some GelGrip at Coles, which is head-resistent contact cement. It works fine.

Arron