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Ashes
10th June 2008, 09:01 AM
I realise there are probably a 100 different ways to skin/sand a cat but here goes!!!

Just after some advice regarding what I need in my starting sanding kit for turning. I need to cover bowls/plates/boxes and pens at the moment.

Going by what the sandpaper man has..

My thinking is
Hermes flex cloth 80 thru to 400 grit.

Nortan wet and dry 600 thru to 2000 grit.
Hermes wet and dry 2000 grit

anything else for getting a high sheen on items (eg. steel wool?)

For the inside of bowls, can I have a recommendation on a rotary sanding disk/tool and paper. I'm not real keen on the powered options at this stage

Rum Pig
10th June 2008, 09:08 AM
Hi Ashes
You mentioned steel wool. when I first started turning I was told not to use steel wool as it leaves small fibres behind that will eventually rust. I do not know how true this is but maybe some of the more experienced turners may know more. I use EEE instead and find it very good.

Skew ChiDAMN!!
10th June 2008, 09:32 AM
:whs:

Apart from that, it looks like you've pretty much pinned it. FWIW, I rarely use anything beyond 600 grit (EEE RULEZ! :U) on timbers - it's mainly the synthetics (corian, acrylics, etc) & metals (brass, copper, etc.) that use the finer grits.

Stevej
10th June 2008, 01:04 PM
Hi Ashes
You mentioned steel wool. when I first started turning I was told not to use steel wool as it leaves small fibres behind that will eventually rust. I do not know how true this is but maybe some of the more experienced turners may know more. I use EEE instead and find it very good.


When I use steel wool I wipe the project down with a tack rag. You can find them at good paint stores. They are used by painters after sanding the next to last coat on cabinets.

rsser
10th June 2008, 02:32 PM
Ashes, you might find this link useful re bowl sanding: http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=51740

And what is that bike in your avatar? A 1200GS?

Ashes
10th June 2008, 04:44 PM
Thanks for the link..will digest it at home when work is not getting in the way!!

The bike is a r1200gs which is one of my other passions. The bike is now a little bit scratched thanks to a nasty patch of gravel on the exit of a roundabout on a dark night last week :((:((

rsser
10th June 2008, 08:56 PM
Ouch.

Unwanted powerslide? ;-}

I ride a 954 Fireblade. Dropped it once turning at walking pace in traffic; bunch of keys jammed between the ignition casing and the fairing mount. Once bitten ... :-

robyn2839
10th June 2008, 10:00 PM
be careful also with steel wool ,i was sanding a spindle with course-ish steel wool and it grabbed nearly taking my hand with it ,and what was said about the fibres is true , forget it ....bob

littlebuddha
10th June 2008, 10:17 PM
I never use wirewool on the lathe, you get a catch hold it wrong and you could land up with a finger part of your turning, i had a mate get a nasty cut from useing wirewool, there are enough grits around to do the job, i also never use a rag to apply a finish or to buff, i use wants known here as bounty its a kitchen absorbant paper, its not a cheap one as they just fall to bits and leave white bits in the finished work. The bounty is a few penies more and well worth it, and if the paper were to catch it just breaks of. And as pointed out by others not to much point in going beyond 600 with most i do go to 800 1200 with most boxes and some other stuff going higher is when i have done gallery work, this also goes with the type of wood and the skills you use with them. Just give it a try and see what finish you prefer. Its all a matter of personal choice and what you are making. some guys will only use oil finish. Have fun, you only really know when you do it for yourself..LB
http://www.shapewood.co.uk

joe greiner
10th June 2008, 10:29 PM
Beyond 600, burnishing at higher speed can do a decent job of polishing. A handful of shavings (from the same or similar timber) can be somewhat messy and gets warm right quick. Brown paper bag, e.g. grocery bag, is rumoured to be equivalent to about 1200 grit. Fold the paper to several thicknesses to reduce hot fingers, and use a new part of the paper frequently, as the paper gets polished too.

Joe

barnsey
11th June 2008, 12:56 AM
I used to burnish with the above mentioned methods but read somewhere it was a no no.

1200 is about my regular now unless it's a really hard native and then 2000 followed by Shellawax.

Experiment on some pieces of the same timber finishing to different grades with your preferred finish - that will tell you what's your answer

Rum Pig
11th June 2008, 08:52 AM
I like littlebuddha do not use rags I use napkins. I'm not at the same level as most but they seem to produce a nice finnish without any withe marks. SWMBO dose question why she has to buy a new pack of napkins every time we have a BBQ:D