Initials

[mjford]

Hi
I have been lurking for a year or 3 or 4 and finally have a question that does not seem to have come up before.
What type of pen, pencil, marker, etc do turners use to identify there masterpieces?
I refer to the text on the bottom of bowls, platters etc, which identifies the maker, the type of wood and often the year of manufacture, also what do you folks think should printed on the "works" that you produce?

[lubbing5cherubs]

I know some of them burn them with a pyrography tools
Toni

[TTIT]

I just use a common fine-tipped black felt pen to put my initials on the base ......... when I remember to do it before I put a finish on :doh::C . I used to write the wood type and year on there too but nobody really gives a damn so I gave up :shrug:

[joe greiner]

I began with ultra-fine Sharpie marker, now use a wood-burning pen (unless interior notation is appropriate) - If it's good enough for Sam Maloof, it's right for me. The burned info is also more resistant to finishing solvents.

I haven't yet sold any of my "works," but may have to when I run out of display space or friends and relatives willing to accept them. Signature or printed name, year, and species are my usual info. This is probably minimum for family heirlooms especially. Some of the more artistic folks with limited-edition "series" works may add or replace with pseudo-fractions as in prints or lithographs, e.g. 142/200 - just a thought. Also, more specific date of turning or last finishing is sometimes seen.

Yeah, you're right Vern - who cares? Just me for now.:wink:

Joe

[Gil Jones]

I use the Burnmaster Eagle 2-port, and the Detail Master handpieces > http://www.woodcarverssupply.com/store <. For me, they work very well.

[endgrain]

As far as we all know around this neck of the woods, traditional method, by most reputable cabinet makers is the "stamp" or "punch".
Costs a bit to set yourself up initially but is indelible save from some amateur altersac taking to it with block of 60 grade s/paper or an orbital sander.
Some distinctive makers had elaborate patented logos made up in brass/ bronze set into the piece etc :)
Often the hardware was also branded.
Biggest problem with this type of I.D. is trying to find the little bugga. e.g. "sly" had an evil sense of makers mark cunningness. (he used to hide it)
They eventually went to transfers, often in gold leaf, and printed stick on labels then to a cultural desert (bleedin' nothin') ! Won't give you any guesses as to why.
Burning, as in "branding" mainly for the artisans of the day i think, as in turned "poker" work, carving, sculpture, hybrid peices etc. but fairly sure these were initially "stamped" AND/OR just signed in ink as well.

Legible sig. or makers mark is a must. (any form)
Full date.
We sometimes leave a shorthand/ encrypted detail of unusual stuff or anomalies.

Cheers

[powderpost]

I use a fine tip "nikko" permannt marker. It doesn't run with lacquer, but I do apply it after sanding sealer.
Jim

[Caveman]

I use a fine tip "nikko" permannt marker. It doesn't run with lacquer, but I do apply it after sanding sealer.
Jim

Yup - I use something very similar.
79112
Have never used sanding sealer, but I make sure that I allow the ink to well and truly dry before oiling, then make sure the oil is dry before buffing on some beeswax otherwise the writing gets smeared.

BTW Jim this 20inch piece of Jacaranda was done with your monster Titan chuck.
More pictures of the bowl in this (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=76392) thread.

[NeilS]

I also use fine tipped felt pens without any problems. My signature has gradually changed over the 40 years I have been signing pieces (pottery to begin with) and that provides me with a sort of chronology of when a piece was made.

I don't add dates or wood species details on the actual piece (like a tourist artefacts).... when I went through art school we learnt to provide all the relevant details about the work in the catalogue. What I do now for woodturned pieces is provide an individual card with some relevant details to go with each piece.

Attached is a sample (back and front) of one of my cards. The 'N' bit is similar to my current signature.

When I get the time I plan to make my own 'brand' to attach to an old soldering iron and see how that goes.

Neil

[Caveman]

Just as an add on / after thought - for utility items that see frequent use (washing/wiping clean etc), it appears that no permanent marker I have used stays on for all that long.

I guess the only really permanent option is to use a burning tip.
Wish I could get me one of them!

[joe greiner]

Just as an add on / after thought - for utility items that see frequent use (washing/wiping clean etc), it appears that no permanent marker I have used stays on for all that long.

I guess the only really permanent option is to use a burning tip.
Wish I could get me one of them!
Here's a homemade one, Andy: http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=85231

Joe

[Caveman]

Here's a homemade one, Andy
Joe
:2tsup:Yup - thanks Joe - will scratch around and try and come up with the component parts.

[Ed Reiss]

Mjford.....book stores and also art supply stores often carry Micron 05 pens.
they do not dry up like Sharpies do and have a very fine tip, especially good for small base turnings.

here is a web site that describes the pen:

http://www.jetpens.com/product_info.php/products_id/768

[Rum Pig]

I'm glad you asked the question MJFORD because I have been thinking about this for a while now (now that I think my pieces a good enough to put my name on them).

<TABLE class=tborder style="BORDER-TOP- 0px" cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=6 width="100%" align=center border=0><TBODY><TR title="Post 778699" vAlign=top><TD class=alt2 align=middle width=125>Caveman</TD><TD class=alt1>Quote:
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=6 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=alt2 style="BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset; BORDER- 1px inset; BORDER- 1px inset; BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset">Originally Posted by powderpost http://image-mirror.cyanide.com.au/woodworkforums/images/button2/viewpost.gif (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?p=777259#post777259)
I use a fine tip "nikko" permannt marker. It doesn't run with lacquer, but I do apply it after sanding sealer.
Jim
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Yup - I use something very similar.
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
How dose this go when you use a friction polish like Shellawax on it?

Dose U-beaut have anything that they recommend. I could not see it on there web site.

As for what to put on them I was thinking signature and species.

[Caveman]

How dose this go when you use a friction polish like Shellawax on it?

As for what to put on them I was thinking signature and species.
Wouldn't know how Shellawax works - I normally write on the bottom - give it an hour or so to dry then put a few coats of Linseed on.
This will take a week or two to dry completely - then I buff on some beeswax.
This is the only way I can get the writing to stay on - if I try before the oil is dry, the writing always smudges.

I normally number the bowl, (date or some such) add my initials and also write the tree species.

[powderpost]

I have never used shellawax over the the nikko marker. Almost always spray a coat of lacquer first then waxes or oils. I suspect that shellawax will soften the ink and the friction will destroy the writing. Try it and let us all know.
Jim

[TTIT]

........... How dose this go when you use a friction polish like Shellawax on it?
Shellawax won't affect the Nikko markings - I go over the Nikko with wax or DO straight away and have never had any problems .............. BUT, ......... don't use EEE over it :B

[Johncs]

I just use a common fine-tipped black felt pen to put my initials on the base ......... when I remember to do it before I put a finish on :doh::C . I used to write the wood type and year on there too but nobody really gives a damn so I gave up :shrug:

I'm thinking a stick dipped in liquid nightmare will do me.