NAF - Flute Makers

[Jiminidaho]

Where the heck are you?

Im a beginner flute maker.. Anyone out there wanna get this forum going?


jim

[bitingmidge]

you just did!

P
:D:D:D

[SpiritFlutes]

Hi Jim,

I make flutes for a living in Australia. Do you want to learn more about flute making? Where are you at now with the craft? Have you completed any projects? How did they go? Do you have any books or DVD's on the subject, if not you might like to check out whats available at the Oregon Flute Store www.oregonflutestore.com (http://www.oregonflutestore.com) and or just search the internet on that subject. If you are serious about becoming a maker for a career well then consider apprenticing to a accomplished maker. You'll have to sniff the right one out though, some can be funny or just down right paranoid about showing or teaching others things that have taken them years to learn. I think that stinks, I think these things should be learned in an apprentice fashion where there is an equal energy exchange and commitment. For an instrument that nearly became extinct around 30 years ago before a renaisance movement began such selfishness is against the preservation of the instrument and is usually about ego and money.

Now as you may know there is the Native American Flute woodworking yahoo group which is really where you go first should you be a beginner. I suggest you set up a new email account, then join the group then just let the group email flood in to that account.:2tsup: Now heres the scoop, you can keep it as a data base and search it with the search function in your email account when you need specific info or guidance, otherwise you can post an enquiry and track the threads.:U As someone said in a previous post theres some real gurus there, and between all the members there's thousands of years of experience, techniques and know how, I take advantage of that and I am a professional maker of many years who has worked with some of the best Native and non Native makers in the world. You can't go past such a great resource.:2tsup:

Here's my tip:U, If you want to be a good flute maker and possibly one of the best in years to come then you want to find the sound that is your sound and will be appealing to others and those wanting to record with this instrument. I suggest not screwing around here go to the best makers in your country, Colin Petersen (Omaha Nebraska) Ed Herbek, Pat Haran, Coyote Oldman, Guillermo Martinez, to name just a few, then buy a flute in a common key and take off the fetish and see how the sound mechanism is made. Eac maker has his/her own unique mechanism measurements and designs which may vary from flute to flute, the bird of fetish has alot to do with this too. The back pressure, the slow air chamber SAC and the style of cutting edge or fipple in the sound chamber are critical and of the highest importance in making a quality sound without raspiness or octive breaking or spluttering. Some of the best I've seen are the most simplest and use the routed channel in their flute and a flat block, a round SAC exit hole slichtlu ramped to within 5-8 mm of the back of the sound hole leaving the 5-8 odd mm and this is off the top of my head, flat routed not too deep but to keep suficient back pressure, this can be made deeper by files and carving tools if necessary, so go easy as it can be changed later when rerouting is no longer possible. Be warned there is a huge amount of rubish flutes that are nothing more than nice looking offerings to the God's of fire. Maybe try a few different accomplished makers flutes at shows or flute festivals etc.Try to teach yourself to understand the process by replicating the sound hole and experiment with voicing that design, it may take quite a few tries and a lot of screw ups to come up with something similar that works just as good or if you are very competent maybe just a few. Then you are well on the way. Don't be afraid to try something you haven't seen before and never get tunnel vision and think you know it all. There are no masters of anything just different levels of mastery. The guys at the Yahoo group will direct with voicing issues. Become a member of the flute exchange, where you make a flute for another member and they make one for you and then you critique each other.
Botom line is this craft takes patients and gentleness and is more challenging than any beginner could ever imagine but the rewards are the same if not greater, never give up or become angry, if you do just walk out of the shop and come back later.

I teach workshops to those here in Australia that want to learn to make their own flute and experience the craft. If I ever find someone who is really keen to begin the trade and they prove it to me I will teach them free of charge, well they can apprentice to me, but they have to be truly committed and know what they want and where they are going with it and that mans they like any apprentice must be prepared to work, chances are I'll never meet that person in this country but you never know!!

I taught myself to make flutes from blanks from another maker, this is always another great way to get guidance from a particular maker, you pay him so you have a right to ask questions and he will answer them.

If anyone would like to buy blanks in Australia with complete instructions then PM me.

I hope this has been some help, look forward to seeing pictures of your flutes. I am keen to see more talk about NAF's here. I love them, they are my life and have changed it so greatly for the better, I owe this instrument much.

Good Luck on the Journey

Ps. Oh and did I say; be warned of the wall hangers, theres more out there than good ones.

SpiritFlutes
:2tsup:Always give yourself a safety brief before using any power equipment and stay safe with all your fingers intact. If any manouver ever feels awkward or dangerous don't do it. Stop and think a safer way around it. Never ignore a safety warning!!:2tsup:

[Sebastiaan56]

Cool, a flute forum!

Spirit, do you route out the insides of your flutes and then glue them back together? Personally Ive given up on boring long holes.

Sebastiaan

[SpiritFlutes]

Yes it's exciting- a new forum.

Well the name says it all. Despite a few positives for boring it is not easier, maybe a `lot quicker and thats why some do it, as quicker equals more $. The other positives are some say strength and some say the tone is better as well as less proceses and wear and tear on your saw and planer thicknesser and of course power.I have several flutes that are bored but tone differences with those and others of a two piece construction is not even noticable, there are many other variables of course. So despite being totally unrealistic in terms of the set up costs for the equiptment necessary to do it properly, that could only be justified if you were mass producing and mass production is anything over 500 flutes a year, it is un traditional as all the early flutes were split, hollowed and then glued back together with buffalo derived glues then bound with sinew. Other methods were using sumac which has a pithy centre which would be burned out with hot sticks. The beauty of splitting is you get to work the sound hole from both sides before glueing, tools canwork from top down without risk of damage to the inside bore as well as having a longer stroke for filing and cutting. I'll come back to the sound hole but here are my methods for routing.

I have used 3 different methods. One is called a self centering jig. I built one at great cost and turned out to be a absolute complete waste of time, the thing was claimed to have been designed by a guy from South Australia whom I forget the name of now but the concept has been around for decades, and despite it's name would never stay centered, it would take anoying amounts of time to adjust then it as far as I can remember would never align with the other half of the blank, boubling the error, there was just too much room for slop and was not a tight jig in this regard. A mate noticing the problem and my frustrations that it was not perfect showed me the most simple jig which I have now used for hundreds of flutes. It is safe , quick once set up and accurate once you have it centered to the bit. It allows for bit changes without having to re align the runners of the jig that act as a fence to center the blank as you feed it over the bit. The runners of the jig are best made from Silky Oak or some waxy wood for smothness and minimising jamming. Fix the runners to the centre of a srectangle shaped 5mm ply board by sandwiching your standardised sized blank (34 mm for a 7/8" bore) They should be 5 mm under the hight of the blank halfs so you can get fingers onto the blank. The concept is the same as a router table though I have mounted a router under a desk recessed in to the underside to give it reach. Then the jig goes ontop and once aligned is screwed down to the bench and clamped.. it can be aligned by first screwing one top corner to the bench then clamping the opposite corner over the edge of the table, rout chech measurement, then adjust via the clamp til its centered then screw it down firm, if you dont it will eventually move especially if routing hard woods. I'll provide photos down the page

Make sure the router has enough reach so that bits are seated safely deep in the collet. Any questions on that just ask. Core box bits can be bought from Mcjing tools in Sydney www.mcjing.com.au/ (http://www.mcjing.com.au/)
if you cant afford CMT or other higher quality brands.The core box bits are best to buy in !/2"
The other method is a commercial router table, which I use for drones. not as stable in terms of grabbing as the simple runner jug but just as effective if set up right. Never try routing backwards as its sure to grab, if you want to do another pass then lift it of carefully and start again. always be super fu**king careful with routers in general and especailly when using a table with a round over bit or other really grabby bit. Never leave room for error less your fingers don't mean a lot to you. Feather boards and jigs can make these processes much safer in they suit the job.
The pics are easy to follow, I took them when I rebuilt a jig last. The beauty of this setup is you can have a jig for every size bore you do, then just fit and align when you need it, takes 10 mins to change jig.

Wish you all well

SpiritFlutes

[burraboy]

Cool, a flute forum!

Spirit, do you route out the insides of your flutes and then glue them back together? Personally Ive given up on boring long holes.

Sebastiaan
Some years ago I bought a couple of shell or standard lamp augers which are ideal for the job. I haven't looked for a while but I wonder if they are still available anywhere. They will drill a hole up to about 3 feet long in endgrain. To open out a pilot hole, use a spade bit modified with a follower that fits the pilot hole, usually just a bit of brass rod soldered onto the point of the spade bit.

[Sebastiaan56]

Thanks Spirit, work is about 15mins from McJings, can be expensive.

Hi Burraboy, Shell augers work well for softer timbers but flutes are almost always made of hard, dense grained timbers. Dense timbers are needed so that the inside of the flute provides as little turbulence in the flute as possible. Turbulence equals muddy sounds. This is why people often remark on the purity of the sound of my PVC flutes, Its the smoothness of the material.

Makers such as Terry McGee http://www.mcgee-flutes.com/ use timbers such as ebony bored on adapted metal working lathes. Out of my price range Im afraid.

Sebastiaan

[SpiritFlutes]

Where the heck are you?

Im a beginner flute maker.. Anyone out there wanna get this forum going?


jim

Hey Jim, There's a few of us here now on this NAF Forum. Where the heck are YOU?:D:U:D

[SpiritFlutes]

Some years ago I bought a couple of shell or standard lamp augers which are ideal for the job. I haven't looked for a while but I wonder if they are still available anywhere. They will drill a hole up to about 3 feet long in endgrain. To open out a pilot hole, use a spade bit modified with a follower that fits the pilot hole, usually just a bit of brass rod soldered onto the point of the spade bit.

My understanding is that most one piece borers who make flutes use Gun Drills on a converted metal lathe and a big one. It's been explained to me by Coyote Oldman AKA Michael Graham Allen and others who do it but even if I had the money and the space to do it, I would probably still rout bores for NAF's for reasons mentioned previously. However I believe it's fairly simple to rig up a short narrow under 13mm bore drill system for High flutes and penny whistles etc on a average wood lathe, I am not exactly sure how but I guess I would like to try it one day.

SpiritFlutes

[Sebastiaan56]

Been there tried that. I bought the shell auger, shoved it down the tailstock and drilled away. Seemed to go well for a while and then went skewiff. There must have been some variation in the grain and it sent it off centre. This was on Radiata Pine, I tried it on Jarrah and the progress was so painfully slow I got really bored (get it, yuk, yuk,yuk) and then it wandered off as well.... I was shooting for a 600mm length. Its a vintage Record lathe with a #1 mortise taper, but still I couldnt get a 6mm hole. Waste of time and money. Wouldnt like to think what would/wouldnt happen on desert ironwood.

I reckon you need a great big metalworkers lathe.

[SpiritFlutes]

Been there tried that. I bought the shell auger, shoved it down the tailstock and drilled away. Seemed to go well for a while and then went skewiff. There must have been some variation in the grain and it sent it off centre. This was on Radiata Pine, I tried it on Jarrah and the progress was so painfully slow I got really bored (get it, yuk, yuk,yuk) and then it wandered off as well.... I was shooting for a 600mm length. Its a vintage Record lathe with a #1 mortise taper, but still I couldnt get a 6mm hole. Waste of time and money. Wouldnt like to think what would/wouldnt happen on desert ironwood.

I reckon you need a great big metalworkers lathe.

So you found the boring boring. :D The name really does say it all.

It must be all about the drill you use. Mark Hoza bores flute headjoints and quenas out of Cooktown Ironwood AKA Red Ebony, and no guessing how hard and dense that is, the name says it all. I have some and it's lots denser than Jarrah. woodenflutemaker.com/ (http://www.woodenflutemaker.com/) I think anythings possible with the right drills and machinery. Dosen't come cheap. Would be good to know exactly how he goes about it though. Anyone have an idea. Mitch from Ozwhistles does a similar thing with his Hi D penny whistles using Iron Wood and other tough material.

Has anyone got anything new and interesting to add to this forum specifically about making Native American Flutes NAF's, or otherwise any flutes. I think all this talk about boring is getting a little er you know boring and we could be waiting a while for jiminidaho to wake up so does anyone have suggestions to liven up the discussion so we might attract some folks here who should be here for good reason cause flute making is not boring. Just they don't know that yet cause they havn't tried. So lets make this an exciting forum.

Spirit Flutes

[Sebastiaan56]

So you found the boring boring. :D The name really does say it all.

It must be all about the drill you use. Mark Hoza bores flute headjoints and quenas out of Cooktown Ironwood AKA Red Ebony, and no guessing how hard and dense that is, the name says it all. I have some and it's lots denser than Jarrah. woodenflutemaker.com/ (http://www.woodenflutemaker.com/) I think anythings possible with the right drills and machinery. Dosen't come cheap. Would be good to know exactly how he goes about it though. Anyone have an idea. Mitch from Ozwhistles does a similar thing with his Hi D penny whistles using Iron Wood and other tough material.

Spirit,

Mitch uses a metal workers lathe. Ive used Cooktown Ironwood for fretboards on a few Mandolins. Polishes beautifully, hard and dense. Would make a terrrific flute if I could get a hole through it... oh.... did I say that already....

We could also invite these other makers to join, do you know them?

I'll leave this thread alone now as my interest is in whistles, recorders and baroque flutes.

[SpiritFlutes]

Spirit,

Mitch uses a metal workers lathe. Ive used Cooktown Ironwood for fretboards on a few Mandolins. Polishes beautifully, hard and dense. Would make a terrrific flute if I could get a hole through it... oh.... did I say that already....

We could also invite these other makers to join, do you know them?

I'll leave this thread alone now as my interest is in whistles, recorders and baroque flutes.

I put it out there, Welcome all NAF makers particularly in Australia. Sebastian56 I guess they will find us when they are ready, thanks to Jiminidaho we have a NAF forum and thats a pretty good thing. Most anyone now who searches wood work forums can now see that there is this obscure instrument that they have never heard of before, they can satisfy thier curiosity and research it further if they want and experience the true magic it has to offer. They can buy the music and theres heaps, they can buy the flutes, better and cheaper still, if they have woodwork experience they can make one.
Now any woodworker or craftsman can tell you theres nothing better than the satisfaction of making it yourself. I joined for the community and connections and to share my knowledge. There may be next to no other NAF makers here now but in time there will be, the beauty of this instrument, its spiritual value and the times we live in ensure that.

Spiritflutes

[simso]

Hi folks, Id like to make my first wood flute, but need a helping hand as to where to start. I have made plastic poly recordersbefore if that helps. Does anyone in australia sell starter packages

Steve

[Jiminidaho]

Wow!

I've been away for awhile, this forum has taken off!! I have gained some experiance in flute making and have made about 6 that have turned out to sound pretty good! Im investing in a lathe extention so I can "turn" them to even get a better sound.

Fun Fun.

Jim

[Jiminidaho]

Hey Jim, There's a few of us here now on this NAF Forum. Where the heck are YOU?:D:U:D

HERE I IS!!!!

:)

Jim

[burraboy]

Hi folks, Id like to make my first wood flute, but need a helping hand as to where to start. I have made plastic poly recordersbefore if that helps. Does anyone in australia sell starter packages

Steve
Hi Simso,
you'll be pretty lucky to find a starter kit anywhere, but if you're looking for a starting idea, what about trying either a fife in D (1/2" bore) or a G flute (3/4" bore). I suggest these because they are common drill sizes and long series are certainly available for 1/2" bits and the 3/4" can be extended easily to achieve the length you would need to be drilling. Both of those suggestions are short enough instruments to make the introduction to drilling relatively pain free. You could also try a stepped bore D flute in three sections if you want an instrument that might get a bit more of a look from other players. I can suggest some suitable dimensions/lengths if you are interested.

[simso]

Thanks, that would be really appreciated, any photos

[SpiritFlutes]

Hi Jim,

Great news glad you are back at the forum, love to see photos of your creations if you feel to share them. I'd like to thank you for your previous posts that signaled there was interest here in the field of NAF making, I certainly look forward to what the many others out there who are yet to find the forum or are here already wish to offer or share with us all. It certainly is a great community with some really skilled craftsmen but very few flute makers at this stage. I recently had a PM from a guy called Ankit in Calcutta who wishes to come and apprentice with me at my flute workshop here in Australia. I look forward to that.

Blessings on the journey

Matt
www.spiritsongflutes.com.au (http://www.spiritsongflutes.com.au)

[Jiminidaho]

[QUOTE=SpiritFlutes;793962]Hi Jim,

I make flutes for a living in Australia. Do you want to learn more about flute making? Where are you at now with the craft?

I bought a book from CherryCows and went from there. By now I have made about 10 flutes (more but those started fires!! :) )

I really appreciated your posting and I am seeking out an "accomplished" flute maker here in the valley. There is a guy at our Local WoodCraft store, just got to save up my money to take a lesson. You point is well taken that Learning from someone who has spent a few more years at it would be of great help.

[Jiminidaho]

You know what would be helpful to me? If someone could post a movie on how they cut the ramp/tsh to their spec. I have seen other flutes and they always seem so PERFECT, straight and looks like it was "Stamped".. Mine rarely look that way!!!

I have made 10 flutes and they all tune and I guess sound ok. My Mom buys "HighSpirit Flutes" and they certianly are not as good sounding as those but Im getting closer.

jim

[prozac]

:B I have looked, and looked again but you blokes haven't let it slip yet. What is NAF?:B

[Jiminidaho]

Native American Flute = NAF :rolleyes:

[prozac]

Ohhh, of course..........

[SpiritFlutes]

You know what would be helpful to me? If someone could post a movie on how they cut the ramp/tsh to their spec. I have seen other flutes and they always seem so PERFECT, straight and looks like it was "Stamped".. Mine rarely look that way!!!

I have made 10 flutes and they all tune and I guess sound ok. My Mom buys "HighSpirit Flutes" and they certianly are not as good sounding as those but Im getting closer.

jim

Hi Jim, give me a few months as I'm on hollidays now and I'll make you a video that could see you improve your sound holes.

I too have a few High Spirits Flutes I traded for a choice Didgeridoo in Montana a few years ago as it was weighing me down. Just to give you an insight Odel Borg's High Spirits flutes are the most mass produced flutes available on turtle island, while they do have a good sound they have very little spirit as they are produced in a factory with cnc routers and lazer cutters by a large workforce. The reason I mention this is certainly not to write off these flutes or maker but it is to broarden your scope and encourage you to see that your flutes can be much better than this with dedication and practice. With carefull hard hand work and love much of you and your spirit will be in your flutes.

I recomend you check out flutes by the following makers who I and many others consider the best makers in America. Pat Haran, Colin Perteson. Geri Littlejohn (Wife of late great Hawk Little john) There are others but check these ones out first, maybe buy one for inspiration, you'll never regret it. The old addage you get what you pay for applies, in fact you get less in the cheap end of the market usually.

Matt

[Jiminidaho]

Matt -

That would be beautiful! I look forward to you getting off your holiday... The next thing that I would want to learn is how to take a holiday for few months like you do!!! :-

[SpiritFlutes]

Hey Jim, I get around to the video in the next few weeks just been so Madly busy here, I now have a new way to make the ramp too which you will like.

[Jiminidaho]

Hey Jim, I get around to the video in the next few weeks just been so Madly busy here, I now have a new way to make the ramp too which you will like.

That would be sweet! I have gotten a little discouraged with flute making. I put a lot of effort and dont always get good results (50%). Dont get me wrong.. I love to make flutes!!! FUUUUN! But when you get failures it just sucks...

Your help is appreciated!!!!

Jim

[SpiritFlutes]

That would be sweet! I have gotten a little discouraged with flute making. I put a lot of effort and dont always get good results (50%). Dont get me wrong.. I love to make flutes!!! FUUUUN! But when you get failures it just sucks...

Your help is appreciated!!!!

Jim

Hey Jim,

I recall some time ago I promised I'd make a few pics of how I do my soound hole, well taken me a while but I had the camera out in the workshop the other day and I got some pics and a short vid of me burning in a hole. Thread list under woodwind post will be titled Sound Hole For NAF. Great to hear you are progressing with the craft and investing in some good tools.

Cheers

SpiritFlutes

[utahflutes]

You know what would be helpful to me? If someone could post a movie on how they cut the ramp/tsh to their spec. I have seen other flutes and they always seem so PERFECT, straight and looks like it was "Stamped".. Mine rarely look that way!!!

I have made 10 flutes and they all tune and I guess sound ok. My Mom buys "HighSpirit Flutes" and they certianly are not as good sounding as those but Im getting closer.

jim

Jim, I just discovered this site and so I am late in responding to your original question about cutting the ramp and tsh. If you live anywhere near a Woodcraft store, they carry my DVD's on flute making, but here is a short description:
1. I use a split case method
2. I layout the tsh as a rectangle that is 1/8" X 1/2 the bore width.
3. I use a 1/8" end mill in the drill press and a cross slide vise holding the flute blank.
4. mill out the slot for the tsh in several passes and then square the corners with a file.
5. take out the blank and turn it upside down and clamp it.
6. I use a chisel to cut the ramp. If it is sharp you can just push it through with only your body weight. leave the tsh 1'64" thick at the edge.
7. make a special tool by taking a cabinet scraper and shearing off a piece 3/8" and another 1/2" wide by the length of the scraper. Use double stick tape to attach 180 grit sandpaper to each of them. use these to work the ramps, edges, and flue. go to finer and finer paper until everything is like glass.
8. your final dimension for the tsh is going to be no less than 1/2 of the bore width and 7/32" in the north south direction, the thickness of the splitting edge is going to be 1/64". Remember to drop the splitting edge down into the air stream so that it is at the mid point in the air stream.

Bill Hughes of Utah Flutes in SLC

[shunka28]

Hi Jim, I've been reading this forum for a while, I also make N.A.F's for a living. I also don't give away secrets that have taken me years to work out. When I started making these flutes years ago my first few flutes made good firewood. Bill is right in what he says although he has his way of doing it and I have my way of doing it. Burning the TSH is a very inacurate way of doing things, I've tried it. Lots of slow patient work with chisels, files, carving knives and finally fine sand paper will give you a flute that plays with the slightest breath and sounds good. Smooth air flow with no turbulance is paramount to a good sounding flute. There is no quick way of voicing a NAF and getting a good result, I've tried every way I can think of. There's a heap of books and info around that will give you lots of info in this area of flute making, all you have to do is find them.
Happy flute making
Shunka28

[SpiritFlutes]

Hi Shunka28, welcome to the forum and thanks for your contribution. Great to see other NAF makers joining the forum too.


"Burning the TSH is a very inaccurate way of doing things"I believe that's incorrect. It really depends on the skill of the maker and weather he/she has perfected the process as to weather the method is accurate or not. Burning the TSH in can certainly make accurately cut and profiled holes if done correctly and there are some of the world’s best makers that use this method exclusively.

I certainly don't make TSH's that are inaccurate and pride myself in neat precise holes that bring a whole full bodied sound. These are drilled, burned, and cut, then finished with files to remove any charred wood down to the hardened wood and this also gives me room to square them off precisely because you don't use burning to go all the way when you use this method.

I like this method for many reasons and I have used a few other different ways to produce TSH's and made hundreds of flutes and drones those ways, those methods are good too and I wouldn't say they are any better or not but burning if you can do it accurately and get comfortable with it, brings an old traditional feel to the instrument as well as sealing the wood and I find it fun as well. I will say that this method definitely takes more skill and accuracy with the poker tool and how hot it is can make a difference too, can take a fair few goes with the poker and there's no hurry. I like a TSH that is formed by hand for voicing purposes mainly and letting a machine do it all just dosen't make sense to me but I won't get into that here.

For some woods such as really hard woods I wouldn't recommend it but still can be done if incorporated with a sharp detail knife and a fine chisel and of course files.

I agree there’s no quick way to voice a NAF still it takes me a lot of time, I don't see the point though of things taking longer than they have to though to do them well, and so this process makes very good sense.

We all have our ways we prefer, but as always there are many ways to skin a cat.

Fire is a great tool if you can tame it.

Enjoy the flute making

Spirit Flutes

[Joe1]

Hi All. Just wondering if this thread is still going as no one has posted for a while or if there is a new one going (Sorry im new to posting). Im looking into making my own NAF and would appreciate any help given. Im a complete beginner who has just started reading up on the subject. I would love to know the basic tools needed to get started and the best way to go about it. :U

[Scally]

Hi Joe1

Have you found the information that you were looking for?

I have been making several flutes lately so might be able to help you a bit.

The information earlier in this thread has all the basic information and good suggestions for links on the web.
I bought a Kit - a partly made flute - for my first attempt. It meant I was certain to get a good sounding flute.

Tools can be pretty basic. A router and a core box bit to make the bore.t
Then a rasp and sandpaper for shaping the outside and a few drills for the soundholes.

I bought a book called "Flute Shop" by R A Wolf. It has several plans and is easy to follow.

[Joe1]

Hi Scally

Thanks for your reply. I have sourced some info from the Yahoo Native Flute woodworking group. Also the person i bought a flute from kindly bored out a piece of timber for me (Red Cedar) and gave some tips on shaping, making the TSH, Tuning etc. I have now almost finished my first flute. It was done by hand and took a while to get it where it is (lucky the wood is soft and very easy to work with). In all honesty it looks ok but is tuned terribly. Still happy with it though as it does play or rather it makes noise. Given its my first one its taught me what not to do with my next one. Hopefully the next one will turn out better. Any tips you can give on tuning and hole spacing though will be very much appreciated.

Look forward to hearing from you.

Joe

[Scally]

Getting the first one done will have sorted out most of the basics for you.

My first one was a mess.

Getting the sound holes right is the trickiest. Then seal the inside of the flute with estapol or epoxy. This really helps with the sound.

Then trim the end of the flute until you get the fundamental.

I haven't found a simple formula for the tuning hole location. I used the suggested location for the first hole and drilled a 1/8th in hole. Then you can enlarge it to raise the note.
If it is too far away you can plug it and start again.
The rest are easier.

You can use the first flute to give you a good idea of the location for your next flute.

[Brawler]

Hi,, Is this thread still alive or died,, :) is there a site where i can get alook at some of your flutes spiritflutes?

[Joe1]

Hi Brawler. This thread hasn't been going for a while. You can check out the other threads regarding flute making. The web site you are looking for is as follows.


http://www.spiritsong-flutes.com/

Hope that helps.

Joe:)

[Brawler]

cheers joe,,that link kept timing out,,I have some very pretty huon pine here and some blackheart sassifrass that will be my next few projects,,cant we get this thread to come back to life again??

[shunka28]

Hi Brawler, welcome to the forum. I don't normally get on these forums but I do like to read them occasionally. There's lots of info around about NAF's, for info on voicing go to FluteKey.com, there's some usfull stuff there. For finger hole placement there's a heap of guys offering specs on Ebay but they're only a basic guide, it's basically trial and error.
I've been working with timber since I was 8 years old and am now in my 50th year of working with the stuff and just getting the hang of it. I've been making flutes for 10 years now and drums for 11 years and I'm still learning. If you want to have a look at some nice flutes try www.wolfdrums.com (http://www.wolfdrums.com/) . I used to split and glue my flutes but now presision bore all of them, I also use accepted woodworking practises with fixing end caps and timber inlay work, I don't just glue them on.
There's so many little tricks with the NAF's that you have to learn for yourself, no one is going to tell you all the secrets. I don't want to discourage you but it's taken me 10 years of constant research to get my flutes to where they are now. Don't be frightened to experiment with different voicings or with different timbers. There's many Australian species that are accepted acoustic quality timber but I've found there's just as many that are acoustic quality and aren't recognised that make real nice flutes. Hope the info helps, Shunka28

[Brawler]

cheers shunka,,very nice flutes on that site,mine are less fancy but still sound good,I charge less than 100 bucks for a cedar F# with a bit of burned design on it,I figure that all the fancy work and high prices makes them in some cases out of reach for people,,

[shunka28]

Hi Brawler, good to hear you like the flutes. As for price, as a professional instrument maker my knowledge, expertise and time cost money. I've found that people like the fancy bits and pieces, that's why I have lay-by so people can afford very high quality flutes. If you think I'm expensive have a look at a couple of the American flute makers sites. There's also a N.A. guy I've been told about who works with sinker cedar logs exclusively and from what I'm told produces some stunning flutes with lots of inlay work. He works on custom order only at up to $8,000us per flute. shunka28

[_fly_]

Hi, I tried my first which is a dud. The bore wasn't good enough and the wall thickness to thick.
The second came out great, E Fundamental and tuning was easy enough. 7/8 bore and 3/16 wall. This was made with Std hardwood I had around.
Third one I did with a half inch bore and made the blow hole come in from the side. (the kid wanted a normal flute?).
I'm now helping a guy at the shed make one (still going on that one).
And now someone else wants me to make one but she wants it small enough for little hands. Need to start that one soon.
With all the people around buying Indian dream catchers and pictures of Indians, I should be selling them??
I did get some help via email from a guy in the US who makes them and that was great. I sent him a Aussie souvenir gift bag as a thank you.

What are nice woods to make them from? Soft/hard. What are the preferences?

[Scally]

Sounds good Fly.

Post a few pics of your flutes.

From my reading the timber you use doesn't make much difference to the sound.
That's good news because it means you can use any timber you like.

I have used hardwoods and softwoods. Both work fine.
You can mix timbers and get some nice effects.

There are some beautiful flutes about, just do a search for ideas.

[Islander]

Hi all

A friend in Africa once asked me why don't I make a flute. In jest I asked him if he meant the champagne style. Since then it has started bugging me that I would really like to start making one. I have read all posts here but as yet do not really know where to start. Firstly being on disability pension does not help as one presumebly needs some money to get started. I have a 1/2 inch router but would need to either build or buy a table. I think that would be a good starting point. I have researched a few plans and have found one I like.

Am I on the right track??

Many thanks

Rog

[Scally]

Hi Rog
Yes you are on the right track.
You could use your router handheld with a fence.

It would be easier with a router table.
It can be a simple as a thick sheet of ply wood or a piece of laminex covered mdf like is used for kitchen bench tops. The mdf is thicker, about 40mm so it wont bend.

The wood working is not too difficult.
Cut enough boards to make a few flutes. It doesn't take much longer to rout them but it is useful when it comes to tuning.