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Sturdee
14th March 2004, 04:50 PM
For my jigs to date I have used T-handles (from old Triton Equipment) adapted to standard 1/4 " nuts to use with coach bolts and T-track instead of wingnuts. As these have now run out and new ones from Triton cost $ 2.50 each I have been looking for sources for cheaper ones to no avail.

As I had already made a few wooden handles that fitted over coachbolts and a T- bolt for my Triton workcentre I decided to make some woden triangle shaped handles which I call " Sturdee Knobs".

In my first effort I made 18 knobs in 90 minutes and the second lot of 60 took about 3 hours but without the painting.

Making them is easy and is done in nine steps as follows:

1. Cut out off or plane down some scrap pine to 40mm * 200 mm.
2. Round over all sides.
3. Cut the blanks at 45 %.
4. Cut of the edges of blanks at 90 %.
5. Drill first hole part way to hold the nut.
6. Drill out the rest of the hole.
7. Sand the edges smooth.
8. Paint as desired.
9. Insert nut.

The following pics show further details.


Peter.

Sturdee
14th March 2004, 04:53 PM
This pics shows the four pieces which form the template for cutting the blanks out of the fifth piece on the mitre saw.


Peter.

Sturdee
14th March 2004, 05:02 PM
This pic shows the cutting of the blanks out of the timber.

To make the template the angled piece faces the fence against which the square piece is placed and the small strip on top. This is clamped firm using the mitre saw clamp.
After the first blank is cut , remove and turn over the timber and cut again untill all the blanks are cut.

It is important that the top strip is clamped onto the blank as this stops the saw from throwing it all over the workshop as it cuts such small piece.


Peter

Sturdee
14th March 2004, 05:06 PM
For the second and third cut the two template strips are turned around to give support for the blank as the fence on the mitre saw does not give adequate support for small pices.

Again it is important that the top strip is pushing down on the blank.

Peter.

Sturdee
14th March 2004, 05:11 PM
After the first edge of the blank is cut, turn the blank around for the final cut.

I also used an angled pushstick to hold the blanks for the second and third cut so at no time were my fingers near the cutting blade.


Peter.

Sturdee
14th March 2004, 05:12 PM
This is after the second cut. Note the blank is still firmly held by the top strip.

Sturdee
14th March 2004, 05:16 PM
THis pic shop the set up for drilling. I used a jig to hold the piece in position and the removable clamp to push the piece against the jig.
The first hole should be 11mm going about halfway down. I used a 12mm spade bit ground down to 11mm.


Peter.

Sturdee
14th March 2004, 05:17 PM
THis shows the blank ready for drilling the remainder of the hole. For this I use a 7mm drill bit.



Peter.

Sturdee
14th March 2004, 05:24 PM
And finally the finished knobs drying after painting.

They are easy to use, cheap to make as I only used old pine offcuts and if you make them using above templates and clamps safe to make.


Peter.

ozwinner
14th March 2004, 05:53 PM
Or you could do it the, Al the Bodger way.
Drill a hole and get some "T" nuts from the hardware, and wack em in.

Cheers, Al the Bodger.

Sturdee
14th March 2004, 06:53 PM
I tried that, Al, but they kept on splitting.


Peter.

Barry_White
14th March 2004, 08:49 PM
Hi Sturdee

Did you use a T nut in the hole or an ordinary nut and if so how did you hold it in.

derekcohen
15th March 2004, 02:35 AM
Peter

The knobs look good. And a good idea. I will keep this for reference.

Question - why did you cut the hole last??? I would have laid out a series of points on a timber strip, rounded the edges (if you feel this necessary), drilled the holes (production line on a drill press), fitted the nut (still all on one strip of timber), THEN cut the angles. No finicky hold-downs with tiny pieces of wood necessary. I bet this would take a fraction of the time and be safer.

Incidentally, I use the metal threads that you tap in with an allen key (from Bunnings) rather than the hammer-in version (which tend to lift out with pressure).

What do you think?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Sturdee
15th March 2004, 09:01 AM
Did you use a T nut in the hole or an ordinary nut and if so how did you hold it in.


Bazza,

I used the ordinary hex nut. As the diam on the side of the nuts is 11 mm I drilled an 11 mm hole half way down into the blank and the remainder of the hole is 7 mm. I used a modified spade bit which gives a clean square bottom in the larger hole against which the nut sits.
I then hammered the nut in place and as this is a tight fit the nut cannot turn. As the pulling comes through the small hole from below the nut will not come out.


Regards,


Peter.

Sturdee
15th March 2004, 09:15 AM
Derek,

Thanks for your comments.

Why did I drill the hole last ? Mainly because my approach was to dimension your timber, then cut blanks, drill, paint and then insert nut. Also space limitations and tool placement make it easier for me to cut long pieces and drill shorter pieces then the other way around ( I wish I had more space ). Whether your suggestion is quicker I don't know, try it and let us know.

However I would only insert the nut after painting so the thread does not get clogged with paint.

The threaded insert you use is only available here in a metric size and not in the standard 1/4 inch. Metric nuts and bolts are on average 10 times dearer than the ones I use and as I explained to Bazza the lifting out is not a problem as the pulling power from below will keep the nut in place.


Regards,


Peter.

Glen Bridger
19th March 2004, 06:22 PM
Sturdee,

Your ideas never cease to amaze me. Well done again.

One variation would be to make knobs with threaded shanks.
Using the same basic shape (blank) substituting the pine for hard wood, drill and tap a threaded hole through the knob. Just use a standard Thread Cutting Tap. Then glue a long threaded set-screw in with 2-part epoxy.

Glen

Sturdee
19th March 2004, 07:14 PM
Glen,


Since I posted above details I have made a bunch of mini Sturdee Knobs to suit the need for a smaller size and a bunch with threaded shanks of various sizes.
Still of scrap pine, which were throwout pine framing off cuts from a building site, but with a single hole through which I put a coachbolt glued in with liquid nails. Seems to work as well.

BTW still got quite a few more ideas and jigs to build to complete my shop.


Peter.