Newbie with handplanes

[MikeK]

Let me first start with two statements:
- I have done a search and I have read all of the excellent advice on this forum; and
- I am a newbie to handplanes and am branching out with a bit of experimentation.

Questions:
- I have started my collection with a LN4 1/2. I played with some Aussie hardwoods including Iron Wood and Black Butt and noticed some tearout. In a previous post, Derek talks about the virtues of a higher blade angle for Aussie hardwoods. LN offer a higher angle frog (50 deg) and I was wondering of anyone has had experience with this.
- Given my extreme lack of experience with handplanes, can anyone provide a reference (school, video, book ...) that deals with technique etc (I've seen The Handplane Book mentioned a few times. Is this "the reference")?.

As ever, your advice is gratefully appreciated.

Regards,
Mike.

[MajorPanic]

Hi ya Mike

Forget about LN hand planes for HARD Australian timbers, the Yanks don't work with anything that approaches that hardness.

For a plane that is DESIGNED for Australian hardwoods try HNT Gordon Planes (http://www.hntgordon.com.au/)

I bought a smoothing plane to use on some curly Black Wattle and was amazed with the results. I now have 3 of his planes and would recommend them wholehartedly.

The only thing you need is a willingness to learn how to adjust them and a good sharpening technique (I use water stones)

I hope this helps

[derekcohen]

Mike

Listen to MP - he may be a raving lunetic but he is correct and I back him with regards the HNT Gordon planes. I also have several and they are the best standard planes for our native hardwoods (although Karri defeats everything).

But all is not lost. Those LN planes are simply wonderful. Just don't rely on the standard frog (45 degrees) for Oz timber. Get the High Angle frog (50 degree), or (this is your cheapest solution) put a 5 - 10 degree backbevel on your blades. This will "fool" the plane into thinking it is a high angle plane (basically, it raises the cutting angle of the blade). Works just as well.

Keep two blades: one sharpened in standard form for softwood, the other with a 5 degree back bevel for hardwood as the high angle is harder to push through timber and will not give as clean a cut on softwood.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Driver]

Mike

First of all, both the Major and the Derek:) should be listened to because they know of what they speak, being experienced woodworkers capable of excellent work. Have a look at the photos elsewhere on this BB and you will find examples from them both.

Secondly, I am a relative newcomer to all this, having returned to woodworking about three years ago after a long absence. I've become really interested in hand planes and I've collected a few. Like all hand plane enthusiasts (even the venerable Major, I suspect), I lust after the products of the Lie-Nielsen Toolworks. Soon, when the wife's attention is diverted, I intend to buy a LN 5½ - simply to fill an obvious gap in the range of sizes, you understand.

However, I would entirely endorse the above comments on the subject of Terry Gordon's Aussie planes. You have to put that comment in context and bear in mind that three years ago I hadn't planed a piece of wood for roughly three decades. To get the best out of HNT Gordon planes, you have to learn how to set them with a mallet. It's not excessively difficult. Amazing how you can acquire skills through practice.

Anyway, welcome to hand planing and to the forum.

Regards

Col

[MikeK]

Gents,

Thanks for your advice, it is truly appreciated. I am considering a side trip to the HNT Alstonville factory during my easter holidays. If I go, I'll report in with any interesting news.

Also, can you pls let me know which HNT planes you have and what features (if any) I should be looking for?

Thanks again,
Mike.

[Driver]

Mike

I have two: the smoothing plane and a ¾” shoulder plane. They're both excellent. The smoother is quite superb on tricky grained hardwood. I did a review of the shoulder plane for this bulletin board. You'll find it here:-

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6686&highlight=shoulder

Regards

Col

[MajorPanic]

Originally posted by derekcohen
Mike

Listen to MP - he may be a raving lunetic "Snip"
Derek


And just what do you mean "RAVING LUNETIC"???????:rolleyes:

I'll have you know I'm certifiabley mad..... "pffffft!!! raving lunetic!
Bloody amateurs I'll show you what mad is :D :D :D

[silentC]

You're all mad and none of you can spell!!

Unless you're speaking Czechoslovakian that is :rolleyes:

[MajorPanic]

Originally posted by silentC
You're all mad and none of you can spell!!

Unless you're speaking Czechoslovakian that is :rolleyes:

Thanks fer that :p

[Dan]

Mike,
If you're going to the factory, see if you can get Terry to show you his sharpening technique. It's fast and simple and a lot easier if you've seen someone else do it.

Dan

[MikeK]

Gents,

Another question..... I noticed the blade bevel on my LN is at 25 deg facing to the rear of the plane. Since blade angle appears to be important for Aussie hardwoods, why don't I just reverse the orientation of the blade so that the bevel facing forward? Am I being a simpleton here?

Regards,
Mike.

[Dan]

There's nothing "simple" about thinking of another way to do something. The only difference will be that the chip breaker will have to be set further back from the cutting edge. With the bevel up you will end up with a blade angle of about 70 deg which is supposed to make the chip breaker redundant anyway (but it's still required to stop chatter on a thin blade plane). Give it a go and see what happens.

Dan

[derekcohen]

Mike

If you do try this, make sure that you move the frog forward and close up the mouth, otherwise you will wind up with a high-angle scrub plane, not a smoother.

The problem with a 70 degree blade is that it is simply too high (even a HNT Gordon only goes as high as 60 degrees). It is now much closer to a scraper than a plane. It may well produce shavings, but only if the blade is very sharp, and it will blunt quickly. You will also find that it is very hard going. The blade no longer slicing through the timber but is pushing against it.

Let us know how you get on.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[MikeK]

Gents,

Just thought I'd check back in with an update of my travels. I decided not to muck around reorienting the blade, chip breaker etc of my LN. Instead I followed the advice and bought a HNT Gordon smoother. Results: no tear-out, very smooth wood and lots of shavings on the floor. Now I just have one problem ...... which one to buy next .....

Regards,
Mike.