oland type tool

[hughie]

I made it out of 20mm [ or 3/4 ] carbon steel rod. Its a bit heavy but it will not bend and it wont cause any vibration either.

The tool bit is 1/4x1/4 HSS and as far as I can tell M2, length over all is 30cm or 12" with 75mm or 3" of tang rough turned for better grip and 10mm dia or 3/8"

Held in place by m6 grub screw drilled right through in case I stuff up the the thread down the track some time.

All in all with the tool bit its capable of a depth of 24cm or nearly 9.5" Plenty depth for the average bowl.

Have rounded over the tool bit end , dunno if I will be "rubbing the bevel" with it as Skew suggests.





grrh! reduced the size of the orginal so far as to get blurred, my apologies.

Anybody would like to know more just pm me

[Texian]

Much prettier than mine. It has a rounded end 3/16" tool bit in a slot in 1/2" square steel bar, which in turn (with corners ground off) fits into a length of 1/2" steel pipe, which fits into a wood handle. It's bad ugly/crude (but cheap to make), and has been my best hollowing tool for years.

[Ed Reiss]

Hey Hughie...

Next time I see lizzie o she might take interest that your making the great tools that she does!:q:o lol...just teasing.

Looks good!:2tsup:

[rsser]

Looks good Hughie.

You got the woodlathe back on the road or just marking time? ;-}

[wheelinround]

Looks good Hughie :2tsup:

[TTIT]

No good makin' lathes and Olands and such like if you're not gettin' amongst some wood some time!!!!! When's that shed gonna happen????
I reckon that Oland would fit in the '' if you want it kept warm 'til ya get a shed :U Nice job Hughie :2tsup:

[Pat]

I was going to ask the obvious question, but I thought I'd do a search first and got this (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=48021)

[oldiephred]

I made one of these quite some time ago using 5/8" CRS and the 1/4" HSS bits. It is 18" long and both ends are fitted with cutting bits, each with a different grind. I used two different diameters of fish tank tubing (small one is 5/8" ID and the other fits over it) to make a comfortable handle. The weight is good for me but some might find it heavy. This serves for more than 90% of all work I do.

[OGYT]

That's a really nice, high-tech Oland tool, Hughie. You do exceptional work on tools.
Question for you. I think I read on Darrell's website, that if you used a smaller bit that you could reach farther across the toolrest, because there is less pressure on the cutter. What do you think?
((I've used down to 1/8" cutters, and have turned one 12-14 inch vase (I haven't measured it), but it's the first and only one I've tried to reach across the rest that far, and I did it before I knew what chatter was.))

[rsser]

'Chatter' ... there's another one for the Devil's dictionary!

She: it's all he ever talks about, dang turning!
He: she wakes me up from a faceplate with it!

(sorry to sidetrack.)

[hughie]

That's a really nice, high-tech Oland tool, Hughie. You do exceptional work on tools.
Question for you. I think I read on Darrell's website, that if you used a smaller bit that you could reach farther across the toolrest, because there is less pressure on the cutter. What do you think?
((I've used down to 1/8" cutters, and have turned one 12-14 inch vase (I haven't measured it), but it's the first and only one I've tried to reach across the rest that far, and I did it before I knew what chatter was.


Al, It does sound logical, But then if you grind the tip with a blunt angle you can rub the bevel so to speak.

I prefer larger tips around 3/8 more of a cutting face and faster removal of timber and with a 20mm dia shaft plus a long handle It generally works for me.

[OGYT]

Al, It does sound logical, But then if you grind the tip with a blunt angle you can rub the bevel so to speak. I prefer larger tips around 3/8 more of a cutting face and faster removal of timber and with a 20mm dia shaft plus a long handle It generally works for me.

3/4" shaft... makes sense to me. :2tsup:

How blunt? 70*? 60? (brain pickin' tiime.) :D

[hughie]

AL,

Your full of good questions :U

I sorta start with say around 80 and fiddle about until it suits......... not really a finite answer:C.

One thing I have found is that real hard 'n dense timber you may have to down to 60 or so to get it to bite. Then come back to the more blunt angle for finishing. I like to sharpen both ends to make it easier and quicker.

But I have been toying with the idea of having say 60 or less and then applying a Alivera type second grind of around the cutting edge of 75-80 or so, dunno if it would work.

[rsser]

Just to sidetrack ... one of the effects of bevel angle variation would be variation in the burr, which is sposed to do the cutting. (Leaving aside for the moment the grit of the wheel which will also vary the burr).

Any idea how this variation might play out?

[hughie]

.
.. one of the effects of bevel angle variation would be variation in the burr, which is sposed to do the cutting. (Leaving aside for the moment the grit of the wheel which will also vary the burr). Any idea how this variation might play out?
[/QUOTE]


Hmm good point but theres usually not allot of burr on HSS. But all the more the merrier as far a I am concerned.

The shame about the burr is we cant get it to last... so then I guess we go to a cup type cutter, that by definition has a huge lip or burr and cuts accordingly

[hughie]

Here wo go a video of one in action. Darrell Feltmate

YouTube - Roughing with the Oland Tool

[rsser]

Thanks for the link Hughie.

Yeah, Darrell's 'the man' for Oland tools.

Looks like softwood though ... another variable.

How'd you reckon a burr on steel with Vanadium @ 10% would best be produced, and perform? Assuming that on an Oland-type tool used in scraper mode the burr does all the work.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Assuming that on an Oland-type tool used in scraper mode the burr does all the work.

I suspect that's an incorrect assumption. The burr certainly helps but, as with a scraper, the difference shows more in the quality of the finish rather than the quantity of material removed. For simply hogging out, the burr is almost totally irrelevant.

Because an oland tool is a tad more difficult to sharpen. I find that I'm prone to laziness and won't wander over to the grinder until the "quantity of material being removed":"elbow effort" ratio starts to skyrocket :- and then the cutting edge is typically, well... neither cutting nor technically an edge, as it's radiused.

Admittedly when I'm doing finishing cuts I want the burr & will sharpen to maintain one - but that's for only a minor fraction of the overall time I actually use the tool.

I'm inclined to think that the main reason it cuts so well is because the tips are usually rounded with such a small radius, hence actually have a very, very small cutting/contact area for a given amount of effort when compared to a typical scraper. The only time that I use a squared tip is when I'm using the corner to square out small recesses (eg. the bottom corner of a lidded box) as the rounded tip is soooo much better for everything else.

I suspect that the only reason a small scraper doesn't perform so well is because it doesn't have the shaft support and thus starts to chatter when you put the same amount of effort to poking it into the wood. Maybe I'll grind the last inch or so of one of my heavier scrapers down to a smiliar profile and test this...

...but probably not as I value my good tools and the cheap ones I regrind whenever it takes my fancy would need the poor steel to be taken into account and add another factor of guess-work to skew the evaluation.

(Just a few ponderings from my corner of the school room. Hence the frequent "I suspect/think/believe"s. I have no empirical evidence, that's what Ern's are for. :wink:)

[rsser]

Yeah, well with a bit more consistent grain 4x4 and a lot of friggin around I'll publish and be damned. Widely, I'd guess :p

But that will be with a straight 3/8 scraper edge.

My gut feel is that you're right about the 'why' of the Oland tool but I don't have the same feel about the 'what'.

Gotta get the digi-microscope working again :~

[SWR]

Funny you should mention the Oland tool. After looking at the turning tools that most guys at the Cubby house have (southern woodturners) I realised that I was a bit light on.

I found Darrel Feltmate's site years ago and Always wanted to try my hand at an Oland tool.

Last Saturday was a lowpoint of TV viewing and I took myself out to the shed to spend some quality time.

At the last working with wood show I bought some bits of tool steel from McJings and some hardened rod to use as a tool holder. Long story short I wound up with the tool you see below.

Got the shape pretty good and I am very happy with te way it roughs out a bowl, spindle, anything really...

The only drawback I found was when I went to drill a hole in the tool steel, I didn't have a single tool that I could use as a centre punch. Everything I tried ended up with a flat spot on it and drills were a total waste of time. Grinding the shape tool an age and files skid staight off it. This steel must be 65 Rc at least. It has W9R on the side of it and is harder than hell. I rounded off half of the length to fit into the 10mm hole I drilled into the tool holder (which broke two drill bits on its own but that's another story). With a very snug interference fit the M5 hex bolt simply stops the bit from falling out. Tried it into a few bits of wood on the lathe and decimation was the result.

As you can see it has got quite the slope as discribed in a few websites.

Bottom line is that the entire tool owes me about $10.

I KNOW I couldn't even buy a handleless tool for 1/4 this amount.

This weekend I will turn up some handles for it and there is nothing like woodturning with a tool that you made yourself...


May your dig ins be few and far between...

Cheers,

Scott in Peakhurst.

[Ed Reiss]

Nice build, Scott:2tsup:

Might I suggest a set-screw instead of the hex-bolt...bit safer that way.

[SWR]

You're spot on Ed!

I have to get myself off to the bolt store to get some M5 set screws....especially since I've been bitten by to self -made tool bug!

Me thinks that this won't be the last tool I make so I'd best buy some set screws!

Cheers,

Scott in Peakhurst.

[rsser]

Nice work Scott.

[hughie]

The only drawback I found was when I went to drill a hole in the tool steel, I didn't have a single tool that I could use as a centre punch. Everything I tried ended up with a flat spot on it and drills were a total waste of time.


another optimist....:U basically you dont drill holes in HSS unless its done at the point of manufacture.

[joe greiner]

another optimist....:U basically you dont drill holes in HSS unless its done at the point of manufacture.

Oh, sooooo correct!

IIRC, Oland intended his design to be duplicated by DIYers, and sold (in general) only to non-DIYers.

They seem almost catch-proof, with emphasis on "almost," because of the tiny bite they take. Easy enough to fubar, of course.

Joe

[hughie]

and sold (in general) only to non-DIYers.

Thats what I figured, that a few turners out there would have a hard time DIYing one them selves. Thought I would knock a few up for any interested parties and hence the good price, I am not here to get rich at the expense of any formites.

[OGYT]

Some real nice work, Scott. Now if you'll make one shaft out of malleable steel, and put a swan-neck bend in it, you'll have a swan-necked hollowing tool. :D

[Cliff Rogers]

:bump:

Pictures added here (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showpost.php?p=868987&postcount=8).

[rsser]

Schmick!

[robutacion]

Hi Peoples,

I've got a little bird that is telling me that I posted some information on the wrong thread but, looking closely, they both are similar in the main subject so, I put a copy of my post on each one, everybody happy now...!:q:wink:

<HR style="COLOR: #f0e9d0; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #f0e9d0" SIZE=1><!-- / icon and title --><!-- message -->Hi everyone,

A couple of weeks ago, and while I was going around my my SIT tools, I saw someone selling a Holland type hollower on eBay, which they called it the EzyKut Hollower, unhandled for $40 bucks. I didn't needed it but I bought it anyway, as I couldn't do it myself for that price. After it arrive I cut the HSS bar in 2, making 4 cutting ends, turn a handle with the same design as the previous ones with spare bits compartment also.
I haven't tried it yet, and I have only shaped and sharped on end and a fingernail flat top type at 60 degrees bevel.

Just another to play with, oh yeah...!:D

Cheers:2tsup:
RBTCO
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The "interesting" continuation of my post is in here (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=48021&page=2) :o

[ydna001]

Looks good, Ive made a few now and I find the shafts out of old washing machines are really good. Keep your eye out for the council junk pick up times for old washing machines.