Box Joint Jig - Triton Router Table

[SteveI]

I can't afford a dovetail jig - so went for a Box Joint. The vertical is made from two pieces of 12mm ply and the base is structural ply with a "gloss" finish (don't know what) that is slippery.

The "slides" that guide the jig along the table are made from a jarrah fence picket - it should be hard enough

pics follow:

[SteveI]

Underneath view

You can see the adjustment - using furniture joiner with the nut superglued to the bolt going through the angle bracket - it allows very fine adjustment

[SteveI]

This one shows the pin that precisely locates the piece - took a bit of fiddling to get the jig exactly located - clearly set up for 12mm joint.

Found a vernier caliper with a dial guage very handy because you need to be accurate to within about 0.2mm to get really good joints

[SteveI]

Once the first one is done the rest are clones

(Note the 12mm bit is not in the router - that is the 4mm one for routing the slot for the ply base)

[SteveI]

I use this clamp to hold the pieces for quick change
Just a cheap couple of clamps from Bunnings - they are not great but sufficient for this

You can see the wing nuts in the "slides" - once set this should need little movement

[Kev Y.]

SteveI , brilliant idea, I have been toying with a similar concept for a while, but have never been motivated to follow it through.

[himzol]

Steve,

This is great, I too am in a situation where a dovetail jig is too expencive (for the moment) and the triton unit seems overpriced for what it is as well. I hope you don't mind if I copy the idea and build one myself.

One question the adjustment using the furniture joiner, is this to square up the slider to the blade?

Sorry if it sounds like a dumb question, but It's got me a little confused.

Himzo.

[SteveI]

Short answer is yes - it is to square up the jig to the table - I simply put a square on the side of the table - drew a pencil line and then used the adjusters to square it up

It also keeps the sliders firm against the table so there is no sideways or lateral movement.

However the main thing is it allows the adjustment of the gap between the locating pin (ie the 12mm piece of wood sticking out from the bottom) and the edge of the router bit. This needs to be as close as you can get to 12.2 or 12.3mm...... this sets the size of the pins in the joint and ensures a snug fit for the 12.4mm slots cut by the bit.

It makes for a tight fit and could be a little smaller - but over a larger piece this would make the join eventually get out of alignment.

[himzol]

Steve,

Thanks, It's a lot clearer this afternoon. The eye's arent as "red".

Himzo.