Tool tip #1

[rsser]

There are things called round skews on the market which I've found the occasional use for.

Simply put they're a round rod of HSS with a skew ground tip.

Initially they were produced for spindle turning though they're good for close/fine detail work on faceplate turning as well, eg. scribing a decorative line near a bowl rim, or cleaning up the dovetail of a recess in a bowl bottom (used bevel flat as a scraper; with the burr facing upwards).

I can't comment on their usefulness in spindle turning and can imagine some shortcomings (lack of heft mainly).

You make easily make your own by getting a twist drill bit and drilling it into a handle - given the inevitable slack it will need to be glued as well. Or GJ's tip, get some drill rod from an industrial supplies place.

In the pics the black shaft is the home-made job, 3/16" diameter. The silver shaft is a Sorby-made 1/4" shaft in a home-made handle.

Sorby make these up to 1/2" diameter.

[OGYT]

Thanks for the tip, Ern. I'll try to make one tomorrow. Too cold in my shop now (7:15PM), I've let the fire go out... well, alright, it's not that cold, but I'm a wimp.
I've been needing something to dovetail my tenons with, and this looks like it'll work.
Have you tried it on finials?

[robutacion]

There are things called round skews on the market which I've found the occasional use for.

Simply put they're a round rod of HSS with a skew ground tip.

Initially they were produced for spindle turning though they're good for close/fine detail work on faceplate turning as well, eg. scribing a decorative line near a bowl rim, or cleaning up the dovetail of a recess in a bowl bottom (used bevel flat as a scraper; with the burr facing upwards).

I can't comment on their usefulness in spindle turning and can imagine some shortcomings (lack of heft mainly).

You make easily make your own by getting a twist drill bit and drilling it into a handle - given the inevitable slack it will need to be glued as well. Or GJ's tip, get some drill rod from an industrial supplies place.

In the pics the black shaft is the home-made job, 3/16" diameter. The silver shaft is a Sorby-made 1/4" shaft in a home-made handle.

Sorby make these up to 1/2" diameter.

Damn, and I though that I was done for making tools for a little while, (I still have to finish the 17mm insert one, as they arrived today, finally!),
Oh well, I'm always open for a challenge, this long (extended) drill bit tool looks... "different"...!:D

Cheers:2tsup:
RBTCO

[rsser]

Hi Al,

How cold does it get over your way? Night-time desert kind of temps?

No, haven't used it on finials I'm afraid.

For bowl recesses, I rough out with a parting tool (which is quick) and then only on smaller bowls - where you want the best dovetail match possible - refine the angle with the round skew.

, what's your view of this kind of tool for spindle turning?

[Ed Reiss]

Don't know too much about it, but I think there is a tool available that has a tri-grind on a round shaft which is suppose to be terrific for spindle turning.
Possibly an off-shoot of the one 'Ern is showing.
Anyone have info on that type of tool?

[Manuka Jock]

There are things called round skews on the market which I've found the occasional use for.


You make easily make your own by getting a twist drill bit and drilling it into a handle - given the inevitable slack it will need to be glued as well. Or GJ's tip, get some drill rod from an industrial supplies place.

In the pics the black shaft is the home-made job, 3/16" diameter. The silver shaft is a Sorby-made 1/4" shaft in a home-made handle.

Sorby make these up to 1/2" diameter.

Ern , how would long masonry drill bits ( dyna , ramset etc .) go ? They are usually longer , and can be of a greater gauge , at the tool end of course .

[rsser]

Ed, yeah, that's a 3 point tool. Not quite the same.

Jock: could do. Dunno what the shafts are made of though.

There are also long-shank twist drill bits .. but at these diameters I'm not sure they'd help. Min. overhang is the go here.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Ern, a usable source of long steel rods are the carriage rails from old dot matrix printers. :2tsup:

The older the better, preferably from when they were built to last. Nice, thick rails in 'em. :wink:


Don't know too much about it, but I think there is a tool available that has a tri-grind on a round shaft which is suppose to be terrific for spindle turning.
Possibly an off-shoot of the one 'Ern is showing.
Anyone have info on that type of tool?

I wouldn't say it's terrific, but it's handy. Being a wider tip than the round - or normal - skew it isn't as versatile. Won't cut the groove between two adjacent beads as deeply for example.

However, with 3 cutting edges it means less walks back to the grinding station :D and makes a passable triangular scraper.

[orraloon]

I have tried the tri grind tool after looking at this siteWood turning lathe tips:techniques: woodturning instruction. (http://aroundthewoods.com/)
Made from an old drill also. I used it a little but have now ground it to a fingernail shape to see how it goes. I most likely have not stuck with it long enough to be really pleased with it as I dont do a lot of spindle work apart from tool handles and the odd salt & pepper mill. It is however a free tool and so no grief about butchering it when the next idea comes along.
Regards
John


(http://aroundthewoods.com/)

[rsser]

Thanks Skew. So, er, who has dot matrix printers these days? Op shops?

I did once look at making a 3 point tool but grinding three edges at 120 degrees each around the rod messed too much with my mind.

Edit: John, how'd you go about getting three regular spaced edges? Trial and error?

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Thanks Skew. So, er, who has dot matrix printers these days? Op shops?

I had a heap until we moved... :-

They all ended up at the recyclers. There are places around which are mini-Steptoes. Pete's Bargain Centre in Ringwood is one which springs to mind (being near me :D) and they tend to carry an amazing range of carp. I can spend hours rummaging in Pete's and spend a small fortune on stuff I didn't know I needed but still emerge feeling I've won. :rolleyes:


I did once look at making a 3 point tool but grinding three edges at 120 degrees each around the rod messed too much with my mind.

There's no real need for 'em to be evenly spaced, having all three of slightly different widths (and the edges at 3 diff angles) can be an advantage at times, especially if you also use it as a triangular scraper.

[hughie]

Ern,

Good tip, :2tsup:

[steck]

Thanks for the tip!
I will give it a go!

[OGYT]

I sharpen the little three-point on my belt sander, that's rigged with a moveable V notch to maintain a consistent bevel. It's pretty easy to keep the sides "fairly" the same.
I use the belt sander for spindle gouges, skews, three point, v point, and wood chisels.

[JDarvall]

Good idea mate. ta.

[Ed Reiss]

I sharpen the little three-point on my belt sander, that's rigged with a moveable V notch to maintain a consistent bevel. It's pretty easy to keep the sides "fairly" the same.
I use the belt sander for spindle gouges, skews, three point, v point, and wood chisels.

Hmmmm...would like to try that. Whats the best angle for the tri-grind? Do you have a pic of the set-up?

Thanks.