jackaranda bowl help!!!

[bowl-basher]

:?:?Hi All I have a nice lump of jacaranda on the lathe I have roughed the shape and would like to keep the bowl as deep as possible. problem is due to the shape of the blank there is a small bark inclusion ( would love to keep that ) and a "dimple" where the natural surface of the blank is below my outside profile
Should I turn the dimple out?? and loose some depth also the small bark inclusion
or leave the shape as is and finish the dimple as the rest of the surface or highlight the dimple with some stain and make a feature of it
it is at the moment 300 dia X 130 deep I am intending to leave the base of the bowl flat and just round out the dovetail groove as a last operation at this stage the intended finish is shelawax and glow
any and all comments are most welcome
Bowl-Basher:banghead:

[Manuka Jock]

Leaving the 'blemishes' on or taking them off will not affect the bowl's volume , seeing as they set the hollowing depth anyway ,
so it comes down to aesthetics .
What may happen if you do shave more off , is that along with them , the figure produced by the pinhole knots could disappear.

Having said that , I would gamble , and take them off .

[Ad de Crom]

Hi Graham, back on the lathe again, man that's very nice.
Not many options as I can see. The only thing I see, maybe it's possible to turn a larger radius at the bottom to get rid of the dimple and in the same time to save the bark.
Good luck.
Ad

[Calm]

I dont mind the blemishes. if you leave the dimple then the bark inclusion MUST stay to balance it out.

Could we have a side profile photo please to get a look at the curve/shape to have an idea of the balance if it is slightly narrower at the bottom.

Good looking peice and keen to see the finished product.

Cheers

[bowl-basher]

Thanks for the comments
this is the side view
Bowl Basher

[Calm]

Looking at the last photo the bottom could go in a bit to give an equal curve all the way rather than a straight bit then curve to the bottom.

Just a personal preference to have a constant curve from top to bottom as apposed to different curves.

Hope that is understandable. But then again it is not for me so whoever gets it would be pleased with "your" shape

With that shape i prefer to have the top come in a bit like a goblet type shape rather than totally open.

Cheers

[Manuka Jock]

If the 'blemishes' were further up the side , I reckon they could look ok , but down at the base , they look scruffy to me .

Take the piece off the lathe , and take it inside .
Place it around the house , and see how it looks .

[Ed Reiss]

Agree with Calm and MJ. As is, the shape doesn't quite flow (there are no straight lines in nature) and the inclusions aren't really adding to the overall design. Personally, I would lose them in favor of getting more of a curve from base to rim.

Having said that, don't feel like you have to change the shape just to suit others....if what you have now pleases you, go for it!:2tsup:

[robutacion]

Yeah, I agree with most forumates, I would clean them out,as per the side pic on the lathe, I seems that it could have a little more definition (rolling) toward the bowl foot (see if I can find a pic to demonstrate what I mean). I believe, the bowl's depth will not be much compromised buy it!, just my opinion...!:D

Cheers:2tsup:
RBTCO

[Rum Pig]

I like it but I like simple lines and then the wood can speak for itself:D.

I like to leave blemishes on if they are not to big it can make the piece stand out from the rest:)

I do MJ idea taking it of the lathe and moving it around the environment that it intended to live:2tsup: I have taken pieces of the lathe but never taken out side my shed before so I will have to try that one next time.

But as everyone has already said it is your piece so it is what your like:U

[bowl-basher]

:rolleyes::rolleyes: Thanks foe all the help
I took it inside and put it where I thought ie would go and lo SWIMBO:snog: aggreed with most of you so it has now been roughed to a new profile your comments please:C:C
Regards
Bowl-Basher

[Manuka Jock]

Blardy Beawdy Bowl , Basher :2tsup:

:D

[Calm]

I lke the profile on the first photo better than the previous shape.

Great job - i am interested in what others think

Cheers

[Ed Reiss]

That is a much better flow to the curve, Bowl-Basher!!:2tsup:

Be sure to post a pic of the finished bowl.

[rsser]

Rule of thumb for foot width is about 1/3 of bowl diam ... see whether this works for you.

If you reduce it, then I'd also lighten up the rim band.

[bowl-basher]

The only part I don't like is the fact that I lost all those beaut small grain swirls from the base but I think the new shape is much better
Bowl-basher

[bowl-basher]

thanks all
I think you are right Ern but I will see how much of the top edge I lose when I rechuck to start the inside before I narrow down the band thats tonights job
Bowl-basher

[Rum Pig]

I would have to agree with Ern a smaller foot and rim would look better as it is they distract you away from the beauty of the timber:U

[Manuka Jock]

The only part I don't like is the fact that I lost all those beaut small grain swirls from the base but I think the new shape is much better
Bowl-basher
Yep , that was the gamble eh , and I think you won Bash .
I'm looking forward to seeing the finished piece , and the colour that it comes up .

cheers ,
Jock

[bowl-basher]

:?:?Any suggestions on finishing jackaranda ?????? I would like to keep it as close to the natural color as I can. "The plan" at this time is sand to 800 then nitrocellulose sanding sealer followed by EEE and a couple of coats of shellawax recut with EEE and a final coat of glow I am open to any suggestions from the learned crew on this forum:2tsup::2tsup:
Thanks
Bowl Basher

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

The only part I don't like is the fact that I lost all those beaut small grain swirls from the base but I think the new shape is much better

And let's face it, the dimples were only visible if you turned the bowl upside-down, which is difficult if it's being used in the kitchen. (Not that that'll ever stop a fellow woodturner from "checking your work." :wink:)

As for the finish, do you think it's going to need NC sealer?

[rsser]

Well, if you have the n/c sanding sealer, use it as per instructions (esp thinning), and then just a wax coat or two over the top. That will work as a good finish and minimise finish darkening.

If you want to darken it, then go for EEE, Shellawax Cream, and a wax coat.

[bowl-basher]

Skew
I find the n/c gives a good seal and a base for the next step with out darkening the timber or that is the way it works on Camphor laurel
Bowl basher

[bowl-basher]

OH WO IS ME:rotfl::rotfl:
Just went to the shed to carry on with the Jackaranda bowl project and to my horror I found a maze od cracks, the blank was left on the faceplate mounted to the lathe it has been a bit warm in Sydney today but nothing out of the ordinary.. the cracks seem to go from the closest point of where the pith was in a radial patten not sure if it can be saved but would love any help I can get
dejected Bowl Basher

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

It looks like a dose of CA (and a consequently darker finish) is the way to go.

[Ed Reiss]

Welcome to the woodturners nightmare!!!!:C:~

Appears that the blank was still pretty wet, in this case a thinner wall thickness just might have prevented it from checking.

Don't despair BB ...happens to the best of us. Take Skew's suggestion of the CA treatment.

Good luck!

[Manuka Jock]

I read in the Bob Stocksdale interveiw , that he uses plummer's pipe clips
---------------------------------------------

" The bands are to keep it from cracking in the drying process; they're stainless steel plumbers' bands. They use them on the drainpipes in plumbing, that sort of thing. So they're very adjustable, and you can hitch a couple of them together if you want longer ones. I have a couple hundred of these. You can see them hanging up there.
When I get the macadamia wood in, then I use as many bands as I can use on the piece. Sometimes I even cut a notch in the curved area so that I can put a band around that part too. I just can't get enough bands on it, really. If I could cover the whole thing with bands, I would.

The thing to do is to keep that piece of wood from opening up towards the center, which it has a tendency to do.
So I try to get the area where the center of the tree is, and I put several bands around that area. That controls it. Those bands, I leave them set right here on the workbench for at least a month. Every day, I never miss a day, right through the weekend and everything, I tighten those bands up.

I've got a little wrench here, and--there it is, right there. You see, that little wrench just fits on that, and [thumping noise] right there. So that, you just go through all the bands that you have every day, and when it gets to the point where it won't tighten up any more from one day to the next, then you know it's almost dry. Then I can put it on the hood above the kitchen stove and finish drying it up there. That's one of the tricks in getting wood dry. ''

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